Hi there, I'm having problems compiling on Windows 10. Something about file name being too long. This Marlin is RC6. BUT, the exactly same set of files compiles and uploads without any problems when using Ubuntu 14.04. Both OS has the same, latest version of Arduino IDE. The error message says: Arduino: 1.6.9 (Windows 10), Board: "Arduino/Genuino Mega or Mega 2560, ATmega2560 (Mega 2560)"by Veesta - Firmware - Marlin
As long as you see what is happening with the temperatures. I'm having problems with my LCD because a regulator in Arduino is shot. Had to build a 5V power supply from PSU to USB just to wake/boot Arduino. Also, i cannot upload a new firmware if my Bluetooth adapter (JY-MCU) is connected to RAMPS. Cheap Chinese electronicsby Veesta - Prusa i3 and variants
Not sure if i like the crimp you have on the LCD ribbon cables there. Try re seating the LCD connectors on screen and on board. Give the cables "more space" around. And maybe disconnect the LCD completely and test with Pronterface and USB cable how it works?by Veesta - Prusa i3 and variants
Check your homing direction. you need to tell it which way the home is. This is determined by your end stop location. MIN or MAX. // ENDSTOP SETTINGS: // Sets direction of endstops when homing; 1=MAX, -1=MIN // :[-1,1] #define X_HOME_DIR 1 #define Y_HOME_DIR -1 #define Z_HOME_DIR -1by Veesta - Prusa i3 and variants
I wired my endstop as S = Yellow GND = EMPTY GND = Black VCC = Red And used this image to connect wires on the RAMPS: NOTE: This image shows position for X/Y/Z MIN end stops. MAX position is one step to the right. EDIT: BTW, if you bend that end stop connector up a bit. You will see they are probably marked on the circuit board. The connector just covers it.by Veesta - Prusa i3 and variants
Did you adjust the Vref from A4998? try turning it up a bit. Note, the pot might just turn round in circles, so it turns over to zero from max, if turned too far. Wires might have continuity, but the connector has poor connection inside the pins. Wiggle the connector while operating your machine.by Veesta - Prusa i3 and variants
It can use 0,3 With perimeters, i think the layer height is more important. Layer height is usually around 0,2 millimeters which is quite high. Some have reported printing 0,05 layers, but those machines need a lot of fine tuning. (eliminate backlash as much as possible, fine tune extrusion, etc..) Precision is hard to achieve, but really? FDM printing is not the most precise anyway and you shby Veesta - Prusa i3 and variants
Not necessarily a better quality, since the outlines of your parts are printed as "perimeters" and the rest is just filled per % you want. This is a good image about perimeter and infill: AFAIK, smaller hole in the extruder head means slower printing and needs more torque from the filament pulling stepper. Heads can be replaced. You just screw them in and out.by Veesta - Prusa i3 and variants
There is a setting to offset the home position away from the endstop/limit switch. Check if you have some value set there.by Veesta - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteHenrik Jansson Ok, thanks! Some of the Reprap Prusa i3 printers has PCB in the heated bed. Is that common? I thought PCP was forbidden, at least in my country because it is a very poisonous chemical. PCB is not PCP. PCB is Printed Circuit Board, the heating element is just a circuit board with copper traces and a red or black coating. How fast is the print? It all depends on several settby Veesta - Prusa i3 and variants
I think those parts are good to go. But i believe you need to change few connectors to dupont. I have done few dry runs on my printer and currently lubricating the bearings and threaded rods with spray Vaseline. Getting ready to do calibrations and first test print. Generally it all works now. I had to rebuild few connectors, because stupid me..by Veesta - Prusa i3 and variants
Hi Esa, Apparently that old version of Marlin needs an old version of Arduino IDE to work. I noticed it will not compile when using the latest version of Arduino IDE. Go grab a latest version of the firmware and work those changes into it. Some parts have different names, (IIRC, endstops, board version) but you should be able to figure this out easily. -Marttiby Veesta - Prusa i3 and variants
This one?by Veesta - Prusa i3 and variants
Run the homing procedure from your LCD panel. It will turn the steppers "ON" and holds position after all axis find their home. (For a minute or two anyway)by Veesta - Prusa i3 and variants
Thanks Vuokko! Looks like my LibreCAD cannot open the file, but DWG TruView from Autodesk works.by Veesta - Prusa i3 and variants
Ok, i thinks i got it. My homing direction was wrong and this stepper driver is kaputt? Will get a new driver and go from there.. EDIT: changed homing speed from 4*60 to 2*60 and now it works..by Veesta - Prusa i3 and variants
My printer is alive! Sort of, at least, ish... Prusa i3 Rework, Arduino 2560, RAMPS 1.4, Latest Marlin RC This beast -> I can move and home Y-axis. No problems there. (heat bed) X-axis will not home at all. Clicking home button will not do anything. I can move the carriage from pronterface, but it will not go past the point where the carriage was when printer was powered on. It just stops tby Veesta - Prusa i3 and variants
Hi there, Does anyone have the P3steel V4 frame files for cutting? The ones i find are for V2.x and V4 is not in scale. Even 1:1 PDF file would be good. EDIT: All i really need is the Z-axis top support bracket for comparison.by Veesta - Prusa i3 and variants
Hi there, Do i need to put some kind of funnel to the print cooling fan to direct the airflow to the nozzle or is it OK to just place the fans blowing gently in the nozzle's general direction? I have MK8 (ish) extruder and built a simple print cooling fan bracket by making a T from flat aluminum rod and attached 2 x 40mm fans to it. This "T" shaped thingy is connected to barrel with M6 nut to kby Veesta - Plastic Extruder Working Group
I don't believe this is the expected behavior. You should report this as bug in the firmware. Workaround would be to disconnect usb when printing from SD.by Veesta - Prusa i3 and variants
I was just playing with a stepper motor and noticed it will vibrate quite a lot when turned slowly. I'm thinking about buying a damping pad between the motor and extruder/cold end. Or maybe buy a geared motor, so the motor itself can turn faster?by Veesta - Prusa i3 and variants
You need to move your endstops to modify your home position.by Veesta - Prusa i3 and variants
Make sure your filament rolls out freely. You could change that little spring to a heavier one, but i would recommend visiting the eBays and getting a new adjustable feeder. They don't cost much.by Veesta - Prusa i3 and variants
I don't think anyone stole anything because this is Open Source project. Price is usually a good indicator for parts used and China is infamous for using poor quality parts or even fake parts and scam you. I went and built one from scratch. Sourcing parts from local hardware stores and eBay. Very nice project, but has more work like making the wiring loom yourself. (All the wires are either toby Veesta - Prusa i3 and variants
Something like this?by Veesta - Prusa i3 and variants
Sounds like a shorted/burned regulator in RAMPS.by Veesta - Prusa i3 and variants
Save it as .h and install Arduino IDE, if you don't have it yet. You need it to upload your firmware into your printer. This link explains what to edit in configuration.h and what the #define switches actually do. This is the Github repo. From the right hand side of the screen, select "download ZIP" and you get the complete package. Now extract the package. When you have arduino IDE installby Veesta - Prusa i3 and variants
You got PMby Veesta - Prusa i3 and variants
I found my rods from Motonet @ Pirkkala and Kodin Terra @ Nokia Any chance getting me a P3Steel metal parts too? I bought some cheap LM8UU kit, but those turned out to be poor quality. www.prenta.fi has plenty of parts available. You also need electric wire, dupont connectors and a crimping tool for dupont. SN-28B is cheap from eBay, but will not crimp tight enough, so the pin needs more workby Veesta - Prusa i3 and variants