What do you mean by "ink?" Also, when you first assemble a hot end, you have to heat it up to near its top operating temperature (so for a Mk. 8, around 230C) and torque the nozzle into the heat block. As it heats up, it loosens up. E3D has great instructions for asssembly of their hot ends, and other assemblies such as the Mk. 8 have a similar procedure. 2. On my printer, I set the end stopby av8r1 - Prusa i3 and variants
Replace your thermistors and see if the issue clears. They're cheap.by av8r1 - Prusa i3 and variants
I'll muddy the waters by saying 2020 aluminum extrusion makes for a very sturdy frame.by av8r1 - Prusa i3 and variants
Do you need the hot end, or the motor assembly?by av8r1 - Prusa i3 and variants
Flip the X motor connector over.by av8r1 - Prusa i3 and variants
The only other things i can think of to try are different baud rates, a different USB cable, different host software, and different firmware.by av8r1 - Delta Machines
So what kind of part cooler is anyone using? I've still got the stock hot end on mine.by av8r1 - Prusa i3 and variants
A few things I would try: You say you use the "home all axes" button in Pronterface's control panel. How does the printer respond if you send it G28 via the console? Does the machine move when clicking the motion buttons in Pronterface? Have you tried using absolute positioning (G90) rather than relative positioning (G91)? If you have a controller display, does it work with M117 commands? Wby av8r1 - Delta Machines
You know what? I slapped together a Folger Kossel, input the length of my diagonal rods, and it printed a couple decent parts. If I can get it running true of the bed, I think I'm in fine shape.by av8r1 - Delta Machines
I'm afraid neither suggestions are ultimately helpful. One thing I'm going to try is shimming the diag. rods. The rods are about 51.7mm apart outside to outside at the effector end, and 51.1mm apart at the carriage end. I'm placing an M3 washer under each carriage rod end to bring them into parallel. I've read somewhere that this will reduce effector tilt.by av8r1 - Delta Machines
dc42, what in your mind is the difference between "auto calibration" and "auto level?" I've got the stock inductive sensor, and the offset is 31mm. When the machine is doing the bed probe routine, in the bottom right corner (quadrant 4, +x -y) the nozzle actually taps the bed surface, so I wonder if it's just that the sensor is crap.by av8r1 - Delta Machines
So what the hell is up with the auto level "feature?" It doesn't do a damn thing! Call G29, it goes through a big song and dance moving the head around, but it doesn't actually compensate for anything, the print comes out as if it hasn't adjusted for anything. Lots of people seem to have this problem, but no solutions. I'm running the firmware I got from Folger. I found some other Kossel firby av8r1 - Delta Machines
So I've got my Delta (Folgertech Kossel) up and running, but the auto level feature doesn't seem to achieve much. It runs the probing sequence, but it doesn't seem to do anything with the information. The print starts and the bottom layer is off. One corner of the print is low, one is high, like the bed isn't level. Is there anything to do to the printer besides put the G29 command in the staby av8r1 - Delta Machines
Quotedocpayce Steel belts: No, didn't try. I read something about them being a bit to stiff for 20 tooth pulleys? Dunno... Looking forward for your results! I use this RAMPS mount: (without those stabilizing "wings" - totally fine without those) And this to hold the bed in place: (printed in ABS for obvious reasons, all leveling done via software) Yeah, the acrylic spool holder was the very fby av8r1 - Delta Machines
This isn't a particularly good place to put this, but I'll put it here anyway: the firmware makes me nervous. Not that I think Marlin is out to get me or anything, it's just that I find it a little incomprehensible. What gets me is I'll download the firmware from Github and it will NEVER compile without throwing some cryptic error. No two versions are exactly alike, and if something goes wronby av8r1 - Delta Machines
Depends on the hot end. What model extruder do you have?by av8r1 - Prusa i3 and variants
Mostly I just need the RAMPS/bed mount. I'll probably 3D print some end stop mounts. I have a bit of a prejudice against using wood in the frame of a 3D printer. Acrylic isn't exactly ideal either, but it has the benefit of being humidity proof, and I can still cut it on my makerspace's laser. I'm going to use Tech2C's compact bowden extruder, which is its own mount, there are dozens of waysby av8r1 - Delta Machines
Has anyone got the .dxf files for the acrylic parts? I can't seem to find them on Folgertech's website. I've got the .stls for the printed parts.by av8r1 - Delta Machines
It may be that different industries use terms slightly differently. My aviation background associates threads which are heated, assembled and allowed to cool to lock them into place with the phrase "interference fit." Whatever we choose to call it, the physics are there. The Aluminum heat block expands with temperature more than the steel heat break or brass/steel nozzle, so the threads loosenby av8r1 - Delta Machines
@sharkicicles, no, the plastic didn't jam your threads. It's called an interference fit. As the nozzle got hot and cold, the threads tighten. If you have to disassemble a hot end, heat it to printing temperature before applying torque. Once the threads are broken loose, then cool the hot end and unscrew. Grip the hot block, not the cold end or heat sink. I'm just starting to build a Kossel,by av8r1 - Delta Machines
Try re-flashing your firmware.by av8r1 - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotejabu32 How do I get rid of the waves in the outside layers? Looks like your extruder driver current is a little high. Check the Vref. You probably want to reduce the current on all of the steppers, they tend to run a little hot.by av8r1 - Prusa i3 and variants
I haven't encountered that problem as my frame is metal, but I can see your dilemma. You may have to contact the manufacturer of the kit and request a correct replacement. The Prusa frame plate is just too big for my laser cutter, so I can't make you a new one.by av8r1 - Prusa i3 and variants
So I'm preparing for an auto bed leveling sensor to replace my Z axis end stop. Right now, with no modifications, I'm using the M119 command to see which end stops are triggered. When none are touched, they all read OPEN. With the Y and Z axes, when the switches are depressed, both minimum and maximum end stop values read TRIGGERED. The printer seems to behave correctly, so it hasn't been a pby av8r1 - Prusa i3 and variants
So the display works when the USB cable is plugged into your laptop, but not when unplugged. I bet the 5v regulator on your board has gone. I know I harp on that a lot, but it's been a BIG issue with me, and if you do ANYTHING wrong with the machine, that regulator will let the smoke out. There are three ways to power an Arduino: You can put up to 5.5V on the 5V pin (basically don't do that.by av8r1 - Prusa i3 and variants
If I were you, with such a budget, I'd go with a genuine Prusa branded i3. That's if you're really set on an i3 type. Your budget would allow you to buy a CoreXY machine, slightly more complex in rigging but they tend to go better and faster.by av8r1 - Prusa i3 and variants
It's good to have spare electronics. I ended up repairing my FT Arduino with a new regulator, and I use it as intended--as a workbench playtoy and tryer outer. The chips on board are genuine Atmel AVRs, so for most uses they're fine. Running a 3D printer is demanding on the regulator, and these weren't up to snuff. I have yet another set of electronics laying around ready to be swapped out.by av8r1 - Prusa i3 and variants
I recently had a problem where the cooling fan on a printer (not my personal one, I haven't installed one yet) cooled the nozzle too much when it turned on. Make sure that's not happening. Also, about OctoPrint--I've downloaded the OctoPi image, and can't get it to work. I mean, at all. Downloaded the image from GitHub, burned the image to an SD card, plugged into the Pi, and it acts like theby av8r1 - Prusa i3 and variants
Hang on, did you say you've got a .2mm nozzle, and you're printing with .2 or .3mm layer height? That's an issue. layer height should be less than 80% of the nozzle diameter at maximum. The following was printed on my Folger, with the stock .4mm extruder nozzle, at .1mm layer height: Notice how tight the layers are, none of those gaps. That's what you're shooting for. Lil red kitty was maby av8r1 - Prusa i3 and variants
Is the nozzle maintaining temperature? Are you running a cooling fan?by av8r1 - Prusa i3 and variants