HighLikeAladdin and CutterNorth, we would be better able to advise you if we knew what printers you were using, otherwise the question is like how long is a piece of string?by Supermec - Printing
I would suggest for better results on the bottom layer that you print with a brim. This can be trimmed off after. Also I would very slightly reduce the distance between the nozzle and the bed so that the bottom layer is squashed well against the glass.by Supermec - Printing
It is just possible that you may be getting a static electricity build-up on the screen board. This has been known to be a cause of this problem. Unfortunately I don't know a solution if this is the case.by Supermec - Prusa i3 and variants
Check that both ends of the ribbon cable/cables are fully home. You have the screen in a separate mount so it's easy to pull a cable.by Supermec - Prusa i3 and variants
The brain slipped out of gear in my last post, seems to be happening a bit lately (must be getting old). I should have said that the Anets happily drive two Nema17 type motors with 8mm lead-screws in parallel off the same A4988 stepper driver .by Supermec - Printing
The Anet printers all happily drive two Z motors in parallel off the same LR7843 stepper driver. The main thing to ensure is that both Z leadscrews turn freely and that there are no tight spots between the Z axis guides.by Supermec - Printing
It sounds to me as though you have shorted or damaged the extruder thermistor.by Supermec - Printing
From what you say the Y axis was fine after swapping the cables, so this eliminates a problem with the cable or stepper driver for the X axis. If that was the problem then it would have transferred to the Y axis. Since the problem remained with the X axis it should be the X stepper motor, but you say that you have swapped that and the new X motor would not function either, so the motor is not fauby Supermec - Prusa i3 and variants
Well I tried all that doesn't tell me very much. You are asking for help and I'm trying to help you. Tell me exactly what happened for each part of what I suggested.by Supermec - Prusa i3 and variants
Take the X axis belt off and check that you can move the extruder freely all the way from side to side by hand. If you can't then you most probably have a bent X guide or the X guide mounting holes are out of line. If the extruder is moving freely by hand then put the belt back on, check the X motor connections, position the extruder in the middle of the X travel and try home X again. If the X stby Supermec - Prusa i3 and variants
I would have thought that a bed temperature of 70C for ABS was a little on the low side. The general recommendation for ABS seems to be 100-110C, although I have printed ABS OK with the bed at 90-95C. The balling up of the filament is typical of poor bed adhesion. It can also be caused by trying to extrude the filament at too low a temperature, so that it is not fluid enough to adhere and spreadby Supermec - Prusa i3 and variants
I suggest that you go back to the hated Windows PC, and check that the printer will operate correctly with that. If the firmware changes didn't complete OK then it may not be operating the coms correctly. I have stayed with the original firmware on the basis of "if it ain't broke, don't fix it", also because there is always a small risk of bricking the board. Some users have experienced problemsby Supermec - Prusa i3 and variants
You need to find the Mac equivalent of the Windows CH340G driver. The Anet is configured for serial communication via the USB at 115200 Baud.by Supermec - Prusa i3 and variants
I have an A8, I've had it for months now and I'm fully familiar with it including its circuitry, although I choose not to use auto levelling. As I have already told you once, and Obewan has also repeated, the Anet board has permanent pull-up resistors mounted on the board. These cannot be controlled by the 1284P processor, which can only switch its own internal pull-ups. The reason that your prby Supermec - Printing
The standard switch Anet A8 endstops are normally open. They close when triggered. One side of the switch goes to ground (0V), and the other side goes to the monitor point, at which the processor monitors the state of the switch. The monitor point has a pull-up resistor to 5V on the board (not as part of the processor), and a capacitor to ground. When the limit switch is not triggered the processby Supermec - Printing
If the printer always returns to the same position when you use "Home All" on the printer's own controls, then there is nothing wrong with the printer. You need to ensure that pronterface and your slicer are correctly set up so that they control the printer correctly. I'm afraid I can't help you with that.by Supermec - Printing
Firstly, whatever you have been told elsewhere, it is definitely NOT a firmware problem. On the SDcard that came with you printer there is an operating instructions file. Print a copy off. Follow the instructions in it to install the printer driver. Connect the printer to the computer using the USB cable and turn it on. I am assuming that you run Windows. Go into device manager and look down theby Supermec - Prusa i3 and variants
Why not replace the relay with a seperate control Mosfet instead. This will be silent and can be driven from the original bed output. This would allow you to go back to PID control of bed temperature, which gives much better results. Mechanical relays also have a finite life depending on how frequently they switch. There are a number of suitable boards available on Amazon or Ebay, I run one myseby Supermec - Prusa i3 and variants
Do you have the same problem if you print a standard test cube. If not then I would say that the way you have designed your model is asking too much of both the slicer and the printer. Side wall thicknesses should be a multiple of the nozzle diameter, top and bottom thicknesses should be a multiple of the layer thicknesses. Layer thickness should not excede about 3/4 of the nozzle diameter. Holesby Supermec - Printing
Are you still using the original microswitch for the Z axis limit switch? If so then you need to raise the Z limit switch by slackening the mounting bolts and sliding it upwards and re-tightening the bolts. By this I mean the two bolts holding the acrylic mounting blocks, not the two small screws holding the switch to the block. The "Home All" command should first move the X and Y positions to zeby Supermec - Prusa i3 and variants
The Anet A8 cables are keyed to prevent insertion the wrong way round, but occasionally the wires are incorrectly assembled in the plugs. Before going down that road, have you assembled the printer with the Y motor in the correct position? The motor and its mount should be to the left of centre and the shaft of the motor should point to the right. If for some reason you assembled the back frameby Supermec - Prusa i3 and variants
It looks as though all your steps/mm are too small. Use the M503 command to find out the current settings. For the 43mm direction multiply the steps/mm by 55/43. For the 20mm direction multiply by 30/20. For the Z direction multiply by 8/3.7. For an initial test use the M92 command to change them, If the new value you got for the X direction was xfigure then the format is M92 Xxfigure. Repeat foby Supermec - Printing
Firstly, don't even think about changing the firmware. Unless you know exactly what you are doing you can really screw things up. Use the printer menu (the operating manual on the SDcard that came with your printer will show you details). Press the centre button to go into the menu system, then press the bottom button to go down until you come to an entry "configuration", press the right hand buby Supermec - Printing
drwatsont, what happens to the head, if using the controls on the printer, you tell it to "Home All". If the nozzle ends up just off the front left hand side of the bed then that is where your FIRMWARE thinks is X=0, Y=0, Z=0. The slicer then needs to be set to reflect that. If the nozzle ends up at the centre of the bed then you need to tell the slicer that is where the zero position is and theby Supermec - Printing
Why are you wanting to install Marlin again? The stock software already installed on the A8 is Marlin based.by Supermec - Printing
For the Anet A8 the steps per mm for the extruder should be the stock setting of 95.by Supermec - Printing
I think that the T0 code on its own in the third line is the cause of the problem. This code is not being recognised and interpreted by the processor which is then incorrectly interpreting code that follows. Slice the file again, edit the gcode (you should be able to do this within the slicer), if T0 on its own is still there then delete that line. Delete the M140 command line this is not necessaby Supermec - Printing
Cura is a slicer program not firmware, but if you don't know this you are unlikely to have changed the firmware. The Z axis should not take off like a rocket after hitting the Z endstop. Open the gcode file in a text editor and post the first 30 lines so that I can have a look at them please.by Supermec - Printing
You have not said whether you are using the stock firmware, or whether you have flashed a different firmware (skynet?). Firstly flashing red LEDs. These don't indicate faults. Just above the bed and extruder connections is a small round electrolytic capacitor. Immediately to the left and right of this are two red LEDs. The left one on indicates that the onboard hotbed mosfet is turned on. The riby Supermec - Printing
If you are slicing the files for printing yourself, then check that you don't have a Z offset set in the slicer. If you got the files as gcode from somewhere else, then get the STL files and slice them yourself. As obewan says if you have set your Z limit switch correctly then the head should home to a level the thickness of a piece of paper above the bed printing surface.by Supermec - Prusa i3 and variants