Griff4218 Yes, but normally the print cooling fan isn't on for the first layer, this may be having an effect.by Supermec - Printing
To start with take the filament out of the extruder (set it to preheat and as the temperature comes up to 120C, press the release button and pull the filament out). Then let the preheat get up to temperature (a small amount of filament may ooze out of the extruder) and using a pad of non-synthetic cloth, wipe all the filament off the outside of the heater block and nozzle. Switch to cool down anby Supermec - Printing
Are you printing from USB or Sdcard? When the layer shift happens is the Y stepper hotter than the X one and is the Y stepper controller hotter than the X stepper controller? What is the PSU output voltage at that point compared with when you first start printing?by Supermec - Prusa i3 and variants
First check the gcode file and see what the printer is being told to print. Let us know what you find.by Supermec - Printing
Niko7193, Check that you don't have a partial blockage of the nozzle. Slow the print down as well and see what happens. Sounds like either grinding filament or missing steps.by Supermec - Printing
Check the connections to the hot end heater, if necessary move the wires about. It sounds as though your extruder heater has failed. Unplug from the control board and take a resistance reading. A 40W extruder heater should read about 3.6 Ohms.by Supermec - Printing
I don't know much about your specific machine as mine is an Anet A8, but I would think that you have a problem with either the extruder or bed thermistor. Disconnect them from the control board and take a resistance reading across each. If they differ then one has a problem, on the Anets they are 100kohm and it's probable that yours are as well. If they both read the same then move the extruder aby Supermec - Prusa i3 and variants
With the machine off, turn the Z steppers by hand and see if one of them is noticeably stiffer to turn than the other, which can cause missing steps. If this is the case then you need to have a look at the alignment of the stiffer one with respect to motor, flexible coupling and die nut. Unless you solve it this will continue to be a problem even if you run the Z motors from seperate steppers. Thby Supermec - Prusa i3 and variants
I would say have a look at the retraction settings in your slicer. Also as an aside the heat sink on the extruder is not mounted correctly. The fins should be horizontal so that this fan doesn't blow down on the hot end.by Supermec - Printing
When I first got my Anet A8 I got a thermistor failure showing for the bed. I went over and over the wiring to no result until eventually (I should have thought of it sooner) I checked the thermistor resistance at its connection on the bed edge and got open circuit. Reading directly across the thermistor itself gave the required 100k. I then took readings from the bed edge connections to the therby Supermec - Prusa i3 and variants
If you have bad adhesion between layers it's normally a sign of under extrusion. Solve your problem of bed adhesion first and then increase your extrusion.by Supermec - Printing
If your X limit switch is set up properly, then nozzle should end up only just off the left hand side of the bed (1 to 2mm). If this is where it ends up, then everything is fine and ignore the rest. (Too late to photo my A8 to show you). The roller on the limit switch should be at the top. When mounted, the top of the switch body should be level with the underside of the top guide bar. The rolleby Supermec - Prusa i3 and variants
Try lowering the throat tube about 1mm (or maybe even 2mm) in the main extruder block. This should ease the lower curve where the filament enters the throat and remove a lot of friction.by Supermec - Printing
So YOU have fitted a wire between 2 and 3 ? I don't see how there can be a built in internal bridge if the connection table for 24V requires that 2 and 3 be of opposite polarity, an internal bridge in that case would represent a short circuit. Don't forget that we are dealing with very low resistances here.by Supermec - Prusa i3 and variants
Where is the wire connecting pin 3 to negative? I can't see one in the picture and the table shows that it is required for 12V. If you look at the table for 24V, connections 2 and 3 are shown for opposite polarity so this is not a built in connection. Pins 4 and 5 are only there so that you can solder the thermistor to the central pads and don't need to have the thermistor wires trailing underneaby Supermec - Prusa i3 and variants
When not heating the extruder and bed should both show ambient temperature. If they are not doing this then you probably have a thermistor connection problem.by Supermec - Prusa i3 and variants
Try supporting the filament spool on something that keeps its axis central. Sitting down on your spool holder as it does, it requires much more effort to rotate the spool, and this drag may be the cause of the problem.by Supermec - Printing
Nokian, No not polygons. I was printing some gears to fit on special axles. The axles are basically circular but have three flats on them to prevent the gears rotating on the axle.by Supermec - Printing
It sounds as though you have a partial short on your heat-bed. The resistance for a12V 120W bed should be pretty close to 1.2 Ohms. At the figure that you are reading it will be taking 50% more current than it should. Heat beds are not expensive I suggest that you replace it.by Supermec - Prusa i3 and variants
Dizzybear, your PSU is 360W which ought to be enough compared with say the 240W ones provided with the Anet A8. It's not clear whether the 23.5V you are getting is under load or not. It wouldn't hurt to adjust the PSU up to 24V. However if the heating problem only appears when the printer is printing and moving then it could be that you have a poor contact somewhere that is flexing and clearinby Supermec - Printing
Legoset0, I couldn't see the top nut in your original picture, hence my comment. Nonetheless the bottom one is not strictly required and shouldn't be tightened down hard against the block as this can stress and snap the throat tube. O Lampe is right when he says that the throat tube should sit higher in the extruder block. This makes it easier to load the filament and provides better filament suby Supermec - Printing
OK. If the correct commands are in the gcode file, then the only other thing that I can think of is that there is something very strange with the set-up of the firmware of your printer. It possibly relates to the "wait until temperature is achieved" part of these commands. Sorry I can't be of more help.by Supermec - Prusa i3 and variants
The problem has been acknowledged for some time now, and I have two formulae that I acquired from a professional 3d printing firm. I can't remember who they were now, as I didn't make a note at the time. They suggested that where X mm was the required diameter of the hole then Y mm was the dimension needed to achieve it and that: a) for vertical holes Y = 1.0155X + 0.2795 mm b) for horizontalby Supermec - Printing
CyberQuake, look again at the gcode files. Early in the file there should be a command M190 Sxxx which is the command to heat the bed to the temperature given by xxx and wait until this temperature is reached. This should be followed shortly after by the command M109 Sxxx which is a similar command to heat the extruder. If these commands are missing or either of the xxx values is zero then eitheby Supermec - Prusa i3 and variants
My machine is different to yours so I can't be exact. My hotbed resistance is 1.2 Ohm so that at 12V the bed draws 10 Amps. It sounds to me that your bed is drawing far too much current. Have a look at the printed circuit side of the bed for obvious flash marks or shorts. This is an aluminium surfaced bed if I remember correctly. Have you clipped anything on top of the bed with metal clips? Thesby Supermec - Prusa i3 and variants
The M6 nut is not for locking the heater block from turning on the throat tube. It is intended to lock the throat tube from turning in the extruder body. The way you lock the heater block is to not quite screw the nozzle home in the block, screw the throat tube into the top of the block by hand (so you don't snap it) and hard up against the top of the nozzle. Then heat the extruder, hold the blocby Supermec - Printing
I don't run auto level on my A8, but from the problems encountered by those that do I would say that the nozzle is too low with respect to the levelling sensor.by Supermec - Prusa i3 and variants
Yes, open the gcode file in a text editor and look at the beginning of the file for the commands to heat the bed and extruders. I suspect that they are missing. The preheat command is over-ridden when you start to print a file. If the code file does not contain the necessary heating commands then the bed and extruder will begin to cool. Once the extruder drops below a certain temperature its steby Supermec - Prusa i3 and variants
What percentage infill are you printing with? Generally, unless you need massive mechanical strength, there is absolutely no need to print with 100% infill. 25% or even 20% will do without greatly reducing the strength of the finished print. The more cooling filament there is in the upper layers, the higher will be the force trying to warp the print off the bed.by Supermec - Prusa i3 and variants