Warm fuzzies are addicting. Good luck. I'd just focus your scope, gas is expensive. If you wanted to 'rep-rap' you could always fund/micro-lend some teachers who could in turn organize their army of unionized workers to print sets and build even moar printers. Then with the money saved, you could visit the schools with your dirtbikes in the trailer In 'getting to yes', we are thinking of alby VonRansak - Prusa i3 and variants
Are you going to sell the printers? (traveling salesman) Do you have grant funding? Are you rich? Sorry, but we raise these questions because you asked 'what's your favorite printer' where all you have to do is locate the largest sub-forum. "$500 however is within reach for many." If you are asking market research, just say so. Sounds like you wants to maek da sails $$$, and drive aroundby VonRansak - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteBoltazar I hate to be the newbee with a million questions, but I am.. We all were. But remember, the quality of your answers received will, in part, be based upon the quality of the questions you ask. For example: What 'assembled i3' are you asking us questions about? When I google 'assembled i3' I get a bunch pages about Intel microprocessors.by VonRansak - Prusa i3 and variants
$500 kit price? Or build 22 printers with $11,000? There is a bit of a difference there. What do you currently print with? This might be one instance where parting it yourself could get you more bang for the buck? But if you get 22 of the same shitty kit from China, then atleast when you figure out the major shortcomings of one, you'll have a headstart on the other 21 Also, where does theby VonRansak - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotetomytom99 While I'm waiting to get in contact with somebody from customer support to send me a new bed, are there any tricks I can do to fix this? Quotetomytom99 And what can I do to prevent this from happening in the future? Unless you adhere a flat plate (Alum, steel) most pcb heatbeds I've seen are neither structural or flat. Quotetomytom99 And finally, my Z axis endstop is a pain tby VonRansak - Prusa i3 and variants
One thing that is always good to try after calibrating movement as you have done. Is to play around with the temperature a bit. Usually on the hotend side +/-5 is a good interval. On the bed, usually a little less drastic interval. But if the filament you are using is has a 30 degree range on it, a bisection search is probably faster. (I use cheapo Microcenter filament, so bisection it is).by VonRansak - Prusa i3 and variants
Good job! Feels good, don't it. Have you already printed a Z axis fine adjustment knob? Maybe your printer came with one, but for the FT Prusai3 2020, it was the most important piece not present in kit or .stl files. Example: Also, as you figure out answers, you can help others who have problems like yours by editing your OP with the solutions. Okay. Just realized we can't edit long pasby VonRansak - Prusa i3 and variants
Do you have the ability to post pictures? Is the layer count of the print the same as the layer count of the slicer? While Z can be off by some, getting too far off would create layers that wouldn't adhere to themselves.by VonRansak - Prusa i3 and variants
>Now when I plug my board to the lcd it lights up but It's blank. Is the Mega being powered by a separate supply, i.e. the computer., even when printing from SDcard. 1) I've noticed the RAMPs will backpower the LCD from the PSU for me, but do nothing (when I thought I didn't need to plug in the USB b/c I had it on SDcard printing). 2) Also, contrast can usually be adjusted by a potentiomeby VonRansak - Prusa i3 and variants
All I'm saying is for less than most postage, you can get a kit shipped to you. You'd have to mow the lawns of perhaps 3 people to come up with $30 (3 x $15 - $15 expenses), either way just a half-day's labor. 3Dprinting isn't just about self-sufficiency, it's also about making use of the products and byproducts of the greater economy, with greater efficiency.by VonRansak - Prusa i3 and variants
Sometimes, going through Device Manager and disable/enable the drive works to get it to 'see' the port. Also, what is the Programmer set at? Mine is usually. Arduino IDE > Tools> Programmer: USBasp You can always play around with the Baudrate, too. If you get gibberish, then at least you have a connection, just the wrong baud.by VonRansak - Prusa i3 and variants
I'm assuming you are a student. That is for College students, but I'm sure you could look into HighSchool student discounts. Also, Ebay usually has someone selling a set for cheap <$50. Worst case scenario; mow some lawns, or move some dirt for a day and you'll have plenty of extra money for a set of plastic parts from someone selling them. When I was your age I was bussing tables afterby VonRansak - Prusa i3 and variants
- 9 years ago>i've buy a 400x400 chinese low cost printer and i can do all i want< Please link Chinese printer for better feedback. Afaik, most the clones from China use the 'open-source' firmware/software because: it's free, actively contributed to by people for free, and most importantly...it's free. That being said, the beauty of the Arduino Mega , or the Smoothie board is they are open-source.by VonRansak - Developers
My guess is to reduce overhead since there really isn't any sensitive information being entered (financial/personal). According to a question in StackOverflow. >So for large files it's negligible, but for small files can be significant, as pointed out by Eugene.< Not a lot of pictures hosted directly on the site, low bandwidth requirements. Servers run kinda slow to begin with. Probablyby VonRansak - Developers
Idk enough about Marlin yet to trouble shoot this, unfortunately. I just saw low hanging fruit and hoped that was the answer Problem is you could have: software or hardware problem. But I have no idea how to narrow it down between even those two. FILAMENT_WIDTH_SENSOR may appear in more places than just 'configuration.h' and 'temperature.h/cpp', but I'm coding noob. So I lack the tools toby VonRansak - Prusa i3 and variants
Also, that part in your picture where it separates and starts with a new origin halfway up the piece. Is usually caused by either: skipped steps (loose belt, or speed too high for your equipment ) /or XY physically hitting some sort of friction/immovable object that causes the missed steps. {I may have missed/skipped transposed? idk}by VonRansak - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotecomarius Still feeding is still a problem. Sometime during print is either to much either too less. Do you have a picture of your setup? How much friction is in your filament path? Is your filament spool on some sort of ball bearing support?by VonRansak - Prusa i3 and variants
[email protected] And then can anyone clarify the following parameters for me in config.h 1) #define MEASURED_UPPER_LIMIT 3.30 //upper limit factor used for sensor reading validation in mm 2) #define MEASURED_LOWER_LIMIT 1.90 //lower limit factor for sensor reading validation in mm Idk the correct term, but it is 'defining' a variable or consby VonRansak - Prusa i3 and variants
I used this over the Google Drive FT Marlin. Biggest code change I had to make was changing the Extruder Direction from - to +, or + to -, idr.by VonRansak - Prusa i3 and variants
Calibration models are your friend right now. You'll be printing many first layers and many tiny boxes till you get your settings down. The upside is that most the pieces can be printed in under 30min in cura. TL;DR: A small print will tell you just as much as a big print, and usually more, because you can spare 20min time increments to watch what is happening. Scale it (the model) down to mby VonRansak - Prusa i3 and variants
I forgot what exact clone of Prusa i3, you are using. But if it is anything similar to the FT Prusa i3, then try using therippa's settings. I was lucky to be using the same model as him and it's pretty spot on for me. As far as the Cura part, what is your extrusion speed and filament diameter set at in Cura's 'configuration' page.by VonRansak - Prusa i3 and variants
>Extruder starts to heat gets to 80c and then just stops heating How about when you try other things? Same result? I once had a 5mm thin wall calibration cube that was saved in g-code that repetier would do the same thing on, but if I printed other stuff, no problem. Also, does the repetier/sd reader, say 'job finished' or something similar after it heats up and stops?by VonRansak - Prusa i3 and variants
Dude, if you want better help. Start a 'New Topic', with your problem. Provide on the first post, all the steps you've taken and what programs you are using. The more information you provide on the Top Post or YOUR own topic, the better people will be able to help you. The more visuals, pictures, the better. Posting a question on another persons thread, will not aid your resolution.by VonRansak - Prusa i3 and variants
My X and Y steps are the same. I'm running a FT Prusa i3, but they are all based off the same design...So I'm inclined to agree the problem lies deeper than changing the steps between X and Y. My settings (stole from TheRippa): >define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {80,80,4000,90}by VonRansak - Prusa i3 and variants
What is your >define INVERT_Z_DIR in 'configuartion.h' in Marlin? True or false? Where are you Z stepper motors located? At base of printer or on top rail? Can't tell if your Z problem is before Homing, or after (while printing)?by VonRansak - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteFpeebles First I had to move the x-axis endstop to the left side so that it is a MIN type as well as the others. Alternatively, you can just adjust X Home to Max in Repetier, and leave the endstop on the Max (right) side. config > printer settings > printer shapeby VonRansak - Prusa i3 and variants
>it is looking for a com port and its pluged into a USB In 'Device Manager', you'll see a Com port labled Arduino Mega. That is the com port your printer will be connected through. (Virtual com port is what it's doing)by VonRansak - Prusa i3 and variants
They are flat as a pancake after a little screw pressure (more surface area than w/o, lead solder is softer than the terminal blocks), but thanks for the advice/concern. I'll keep an eye on it.by VonRansak - Prusa i3 and variants
In Repetier, go to config > printer information (alt+p) > printer shape. Is Home Z set for min or max? Home Z should be min for Prusa.by VonRansak - Prusa i3 and variants
First just set it waaayy too high, make sure stuff starts coming out (may take a minute or two). Then adjust downwards till you get a good first layer. If you haven't printed an adjustable Z endstop, that is top of the list. Royal PITA to get it close without one.by VonRansak - Prusa i3 and variants