That's not a picture, that's a thumbnail!by Dust - General
"I can not connect with Arduino board when RAMPS 1.4 is installed" This is worry, it means that something on the ramps is stopping the mega... Did you try the ramps board on the mega but with nothing else plugged in... no external power, no pololus, no cables, only usb to power and talk to it. ? If that still will not talk, its a dead ramps... though im not sure what, there isn’t much on itby Dust - RAMPS Electronics
swarf in a lm8uu type bearing can cease a ball or two causing excessive drag and missed steps... and it can be randomly occurringby Dust - General
Sounds like damaged voltage regulator When the mega is plugged into the ramps its generates 5v from the 12v fed into the vin pin of the mega. This goes threw a voltage regulator to produce 5v. Now when you plug in the USB cable the 5v is powered from USB, ignoring the voltage regulatorby Dust - Firmware - Marlin
@o_lampe This 'display' is a full micro controller, It doesn't add any load to the printer. Consider this screen as equivalent of a cut down octoprint type setup (no linux... ) All touch screen functionality is handled inside the micro controller. It really does plug into aux-1 on the ramps, but as they say you need to change the switch on the back and apply external power (drain on 5vby Dust - Reprappers
Did you select the correct motherboard type in marlin configuration.h ?by Dust - General Mendel Topics
The physical layer height is limited by the Z axis resolution, most are ridiculously high (eg a m5 based I3 is 4000 steps/mm, ie 1/4000 mm per step. 0.25 micron increments) But yes you also have to look at the resolution of your extruder, if its not high enough you cant put out the correct small amount of filament. Another factor is extruder strength, with gaps that small you need a lot of torby Dust - Prusa i3 and variants
You can see a solder bridge on the Y pololu socket, you need to remove thatby Dust - RAMPS Electronics
for cnc you should considerby Dust - Firmware - mainstream and related support
The LCD code presumes you have a hotend and thermistor.... you could spend days looking for the code to hack... and then have to re hack it when you upgrade your firmware next time. OR Just put a 100K resistor over the thermistor pins and set the thermistor type to 1. Printer will thinks its 25C always. As long as you don’t send it any temperature gcode it will work fine. Of course ifby Dust - Firmware - mainstream and related support
The Rambo BOM lists it as a WIRE-BOARD CONNECTOR RECEPTACLE, 4POS, 2.54MM molex 50-57-9404 A standard ramps 4 pin should fit into this, but the real plug clips down so it can't fall out. NB that’s just the plastic shell, you also need pins in it. Some ebay sellers also link to pins.by Dust - General
Sounds like it may be a dead voltage regulator on the mega then Unplug the mega from everything Plug the mega into the computer via usb, upload the blink test, make sure that works now unplug the usb cable. Plug in a dc power supply into the dc jack. (7-12V) Does it turn on and run blink?by Dust - Reprappers
Sounds like multiple issues mostly likely you got a crappy ramps board Check the soldering on the back of the Y pololu sockets and around the dual z endstop plugs If that looks ok, swap the X and Y stepper modules. Does the fault move to X or stay with the Y? NB never ever plug in or un plug anything with the power on.by Dust - RAMPS Electronics
send the printer a M119 command (endstop status) test each endstop you have manually, ie send M119 without any endstops being triggered and then again while the endstop is being manually triggered, Does the correct endstop change from open to triggered for each endstop? Any that are triggered, you cannot move in that directionby Dust - General Mendel Topics
A servo would be a better idea, they know where they are position wise, but has less than 360 degree movement With this you could just tell it to move to position A to be flat and position B to empty A stepper has 360 degree movement but no idea where it is position wise, you need things like end stops so it knows where its at or how far to move On power on you need to work out where you are,by Dust - Stepper Motors, Servo Motors, DC Motors
The firmware's are for specific chip families First thing you need to do is identify the main cpu chip most Melzi are atmega1284p or the older atmega644p, it will be written on the chip, but is in very small lettering As for this board version, welcome to china marketing 101, if you increase the board number, you will get all the sales And don't dare provide any documentation to help out thoseby Dust - Prusa i3 and variants
You can use a 'normal' ramps type setup, it you buy parts carefully Use a Taurino Power mega it designed to work on 12V-35V Then get a ramps with 35v caps under the pololu modules, can normally be seen on the sellers images Then the only thing you need to change is the headed bed fuse (most are only good to 16volts) Most just short this fuse out with a large wire and put a 24v fuse in linby Dust - General
leave ms1,ms2 and ms3 floating for low, and wire to any to VCC for a high, and follow standard micro stepping tablesby Dust - General
I strong disagree regarding throwing a loop, at least in regards to PLA. I find 1.75 is constantly trying to unspool in weird and random ways, where as 3 just stays put.by Dust - Reprappers
The ramps feeds 12v into the mega.. it cant handle anything over about 12.5v... I would throw this supply in to the garbage pile.by Dust - General
This is a personal choice Though in some places. like here, they try and sell by the meter so 1.75 is expensive... Main difference is you can direct drive 1.75 without any gearing, with 3 you really need a geared extruder Print quality is the same. At this time, even though i'm a very strong 3mm supporter, 1.75 seems to be the way everyone is going.by Dust - Reprappers
It was all marketing propaganda, it just made me feel ill!by Dust - Reprappers
please define "nothing seems to work" can you connect to it? can you read any temperature readings? can you test endstops with m119? Does the hot end heatup? Do the stepper motors move? or is it just a dead screen?by Dust - General
"#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {80,80,4000,500} // default steps per unit for Ultimaker" this defines steps/mm for X,Y,Z,E but where is E2? If it identical to the first extruder try #define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {80,80,4000,500,500}by Dust - Firmware - Marlin
Free barf bags available in the lobby. You will need it after watching this!by Dust - Reprappers
Maybe you put the drv8825's in backwards? vs Ie if your orientation is based on the position of the pot, it should be turned 180 degrees around. eg here is an example with mixed driversby Dust - General
no idea what their documentation says, but this sounds like you have the z endstop plugged into the max endstop plug and not the min endstop plug ie your z endstop is like this If this is the case you need to move the z endstop cable one pin to the Left to move it on to the z min endstop positionby Dust - General
M8 is harder to turn than M5 so requires more torque from the steppers M8 is also stronger than M5, this is bad as if it has any imperfections its strong enough to compress the lm8uu and move the head. M8 is generally much less precise than M5, as in uneven tooth distances, and non spherical rod basically, don't use M8, It is a big step backwardsby Dust - Reprappers
On a ramp, yes you can just connect it to the headed bed power plugs (12v 11amp connections) It will only power the heated bed.by Dust - General
You need a way to power the +5v while the main supply is off (so you can turn it back on!) If you leave your controller connected to a USB you can use that, otherwise you will have to arrange something Then you just connect a something like a triac switch to a IO pin and turn the AC on and off to the 12v power supply eg (I dont know if this eg can handle the load)by Dust - General