it should be doable yes. My suggestion is to search for howthis is done for CNC Engraving. A starting point might be:by auser - Slic3r
Dear all! i have a model that gets sliced a bit "unfortunately". It has long zig-zag lines but instead of slicing the model such that the lines stay long, slic3r (prusa) creates many "circles". This is the model: And this is how it gets sliced: I have tried various wall / extrusion widths without success, also tried cura, results in similar slicing. Does anybody have an idea how I can suggest tby auser - Slic3r
Finally reporting back: Setting Firmware Gcode-type to Repra/Sprinter did indeed fix the issue! Thanks again @dc42!by auser - Ormerod
Quotedc42 Even though M203 has be defined to expect values in mm/sec for the last six years, Prusa Slicer puts mm/sec values in the M203 commands that it generates. Hence the very slow movements. Changed mm/sec to italic I assume the second part should read: "Prusa Slicer puts mm/min values..." I will try setting PrusaSlicer to ReRapFirmware this evening. Thanks a lot for your help!by auser - Ormerod
Has anybody tried their Ormerod with PrusaSlicer? If so what have been the results, and could you maybe share your settings? Will the ini files from slic3r work? I did a short experiment but seem to have done something wrong, the printer was moving so slow it was painful to watch. Any help is greatly appreciated!by auser - Ormerod
I strongly suggest replacing the connector for the heater-cartridge. I did so using XT30 connectors (rated for 30 A). the rest of the connections I left alone (still using the old molex connector).by auser - Ormerod
just a quick update: print finished without a hitch!by auser - Ormerod
At least now I know why they are hard to remove: two locking tabs! Got one out with staples and some fiddling, got impatient and sniped of the rest. Also ordered some XT30 connectors, ... for the moment it is printing again with the wires temporarily soldered together. now the leads stay nice and cool, let's see if the print will finish. Thanks to all hints and tips! auserby auser - Ormerod
My Ormerod1 developed a heater fault. When commanding the Hotend to 200°C it did not take long until the a fault developed: "temperature excursion exceeded 15.0C". Ok, I dug around a bit and I think I found the problem: yes these wires are supposed to be yellow. it's one side of the hot end heater. During testing i noticed that the wires and connector to the hot end where warmer than expected. Nby auser - Ormerod
maybe you could post a video showing the problem? maybe even one with M572 and one without?by auser - Duet
> Anyone thoughts, suggestions on it? Please take the following with a grain of salt as I do not know the display on e.g. marlin. Yes I would be very much interested in something like this! I would like to be able to: - Select G-Code file from SD-Card for printing - Adjust Speed and extrusion multiplier - Pause / Restartby auser - Duet
Nice part, I see you used it before Is it done in PLA, does it not lead to problems with the heat?by auser - Duet
Quoteormerod168 Erik did you post this "cooling ring" somewhere? I would really like to add something like that to my ormerod... (might have missed it on your first posting). Also a source for the (2nd?) fan would be great thanks auserby auser - Fisher
could anybody give some indication on the printbed? Is it heated? or covered with a special surface finish? RRP website does not mention a heat-bed (from my reading)by auser - Fisher
the mini board is very nice i can really recommend it! I just shoehorned my mini ir sensor board on my ormerod: works nicely. I even "cut" the original x-carriage of RRP up to accommodate the mniboard with components towards the "inside" but have not yet printed this version (as changing the x-carriage is not exactly as easy as e.g. the z-top ;-) many thanks for all your work dc42!by auser - Ormerod
QuoteRadian ..... Note hasn't got enough memory for it. I fixed just that problem by removing some 500 megs of logs from a notes /data/log directory. Sadly this requires rooting the device. Som links that may help Rootin an original note: Deleting logs second answer here: hthby auser - Ormerod
Quotezombiepantslol ... I may have a go at implementing IAP (In-Application Programming) sometime ... That would be very nice! I assume the putty way of flashing works over USB, correct? For me the big step would be to flash via ethernet.by auser - Ormerod
Quotexiandhq ... but when I write name of my machine(MyRepRapProormerod2001) in the browser address bar nothing happened. I guess this is too long, try "MyRepRapProorme" as ZPL suggested above (or maybe try MyRepRapProormer (15 / 16 charachters))by auser - Ormerod
Sounds good soldered connections it'll be. When can i get such a mini diffetential probe?Do you already have a cost estimate?by auser - Ormerod
> My best guess is that you have a dodgy hot end thermistor connection. I had that problem in the early days, the bad connection was in the 6-pin hot end connector. Could well be the case. I'm still dreading to cut the whole hot-end loom to install your IR-Probe (currently my bed is "level enough" for the relatively small prints I do). dc42: The "small" IR-Probe you are designing: could thisby auser - Ormerod
dear forum i finally updated my fw / web-if to 1.04f (by dc42 / zpl). Guys you outdid yourself! The new web-if is great and it seems like upload speeds for g-codes have improved again (updated from 0.65)! Many thanks to dc42 and zombiepantslol! One question: Is the temp of the hotend now less smoothed because it now looks like there are significant drops in hotend-temp. I'm guessing the drops aby auser - Ormerod
Dear FaFiNoS Thanks a lot for sharing! Not sure how soon I can provide you with feedback on the parts. Around here spring is "gearing up" which last year all but stopped me 3d-printing. I assume there is some connection with my printer living in the basement (no natural light, cool all year round). auserby auser - Ormerod
Dear FaFiNoS > I designed all mounting parts. If anyone is interested I can post it. Please do post them, looks very interesting I'm planning to also ad a 2nd fan (and have a dc42 hotend board) Thanks a lot. auserby auser - Ormerod
My main problem with ABS is that it STINKS. In my prints I find quality to be roughly on par with PLA & ABS. I prefer PLA unless I need ABS due to e.g. temperature requirements.by auser - Ormerod
> Cylinder head screw I make this mistake myself from time to time Zylinderkopfschraube is the literal german translation of the above. while not being a a specialist in the matter I think the automotive part has the same german nameby auser - Ormerod
I find that I do not care too much about print time estimates. Once a print is underway I just leave the (cold) cellar. Once I get to the pint where I do no longer be present next to the printer to actually start a print I could imagine that having the possibility to run an estimate on demand may come in handy.by auser - Ormerod
QuoteDC42 4. Optional compensation for Bowden elasticity It looks like allesandro has also been working on something like this for slic3r 1.2.2 He calls it "pressure management", might be work to "cross check" oh and happy festive days to all of you & all the best for 2015 auserby auser - Ormerod
Dear Ormerodders I'm planning to print more ABS part's and I'm therefore upgrading my Ormerod1 (O1). Now I'm wondering if it would make sense to not print a new fan-duct and heatsink duct in ABS but only a FAN-Spacer? Any reason not to do so? From wikipedia glass transition temperature seems to be equal for PMMA and ABS... many thanks for your advice! auser PS: Ian, in case you are reading thisby auser - Ormerod
how warm is "warm air" approximately?by auser - Ormerod