Have you tried making a brand new config?by ormerod168 - Ormerod
QuotePeterSimpson As you may have guessed I am not in a position to print anything just yet, so will have to find someone who can do it for me. Does it need to be ABS, or will PLA work just as well? PLA will be fine for normal printing, the bed will actually be a bit stiffer than in ABS as long as you keep the room temperature below 30 degrees or so - I do sometime print ABS in a heat chamber,by ormerod168 - Ormerod
QuotePeterSimpson As Davek0974 rightly guessed, I have a Mk 1 Ormerod printer and the bed support is the single plate as offered on his website at https://ddmetalproducts.co.uk/product/printer-bed-support/ Peter Hi Peter, You could print this one (if you can print that is) - I did in ABS and it works great One-piece Ormerod bed support:by ormerod168 - Ormerod
Quotecheeseandham * Check the temp. isn't changing while printing. if so, could be caused by a not so stable ATX power supply like the original + bed heater in bang-bang mode picture from this blog, howto PID autotune hotend and bed heater: Erikby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Quotespiff .. but so far I have tied a thin piece of wire around the x-carriage and into the groove on the bearing. Yes that will fix it for sure - did that long ago QuoteThen today I did a second attempt. Not quite sure what caused the problem this time. The print started out fine, but when I went to check on it after about an hour, it seems there had been a problem: The print head was movinby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Hi Ormerod #472 emaker is out out of stock but list it same as Huxley and Mendel so you could try a search on those but its not rocket science, just a piece alu 38 x 8 x 8mm with some holes, easy to make with simple tools Erikby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Yes its compatible with the original ormerod 1, the only difference is the holes for cylinder head screws and 3.14mm extra material added to the top (the downside when printing) My y and z extrusion is bolted together with a single screw, so the plate was added to keep the z-axis from swinging, it runs up the front of the z-extrusion and is secured with t-nuts Would have been better and simplby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Quotespiff Regarding the lower Z mount, I found this thread , which describes a version made for cap head screws instead of countersunk. I think the reason why my part is splitting may very well be due to the countersunk screws, so I will try that first. I did find this one also , which is probably the chunkier version you mentioned. Once again, thanks to everyone pitching in. This forum is rby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Part of that could be pressure from the bowden cable pushing the nozzle down, try a calibration without the cable Erikby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Quoteormerod168 Yes the runner on the outside is better, more leverage, smother surface to run on Erik Have to correct myself - only true if the x-axis-plate is straight, and I suppose the design change was made to take that out of the equation, a laser cut side will always will be a straight line and the acrylic rib can carry a lot of weight sideways without bending ..so it may be a better desby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Yes the runner on the outside is better, more leverage, smother surface to run on Erikby ormerod168 - Ormerod
QuoteWesBrooks The certificates and unique numberings for the kits seemed to finish before the start of the Omerod 2s. Had an early revision 1 version 2 in 2014 and a new old stock kit that was re imported back from Australia and neither had them. AFAIR the first 500, 250 in red and 250 in green was special editions with certificate, nothing special about them really, the only difference to theby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Quotecheeseandham aha. Hence the username "Ormerod168"! Previously I did wonder what the reference was Used to be several usernames around, Dario aka ormerod187 comes to mind, did some amazing builds Erikby ormerod168 - Ormerod
Quotespiff What would be the best way to upgrade my old duet 0.6 firmware? I used bossac before, and I probably still have it installed on my PC This is how I flash on win7 connect usb to pc only (no main power) press upper reset (near ethernet) press lower reset check device manager and insert COM port bossac --port=COM6 -U true -e -w -v -b RepRapFirmware-1.19.bin -R Erikby ormerod168 - Ormerod
QuoteKaroo Klong Thank you. I was hoping for some tips on settings and extrudsion values. If you remove the standard duct and vent all the hot end cooling air to the top, how will this lack of cooling to the nozzle affect bridging? I find ABS bridge OK without cooling, BTW, regarding PLA bridging, best to turn down cooling after first layer for better fusion of layers (depending of length of thby ormerod168 - Ormerod
QuoteKaroo Klong I will be printing mainly ABS and the occasional PLA for a friends model railroad diaramas. This means I need cooling fans and other diameter nozzles. Changing the print head to the newer E3D V6 would make nozzle sizes a bit easier? I believe I would have more clearance for part cooling fan options? Or am I barking up the wrong tree? Yes i will make nozzle change easier ....anby ormerod168 - Ormerod
QuoteKaroo Klong I am looking for a nozzle to do railroad figure prints for my friend. Should I look for 0.3 nozzle? or smaller? Have not printed with anything but 0.5 so can't talk from experience, maybe others could chip in?? But basically how small the nozzle would have to be depends of the smallest detail you will print, if a detail is smaller than the slicing program accept a single perimeby ormerod168 - Ormerod
QuoteKaroo Klong Ill try to impliment that for my Glock 26 Training model. Another option could be to cut the model (you can do that in Sli3er) in two, then glue frame and slide together again with hotglue - done that, trainers for the IPSC newbies :-) Erikby ormerod168 - Ormerod
QuoteKaroo Klong Quoteormerod168 QuoteKaroo Klong Quoteormerod168 QuoteKaroo Klong Still nothing. Here you go - it's a bit dated, but so was the original request :-) Erik Why is it that when I load these .ini files, the Filament diameter always shows up as 3mm on Slic3r? I have Slic3r Prusa Edition 1.36.2-prusa3d-win64 Magic? - I don't know, haven't used Sli3er for a quite a while, uninstalby ormerod168 - Ormerod
QuoteKaroo Klong Last Question. What is the best hotend cooling setup for ABS Exclusive printing? 1. With Standard Ormerod Hotend (Also what is the nozzle type if I want to buy 0.4 or 0.3mm nozzles? what thread tipe) For ABS only the best would be to change the original fan duct, model a frame around the heat sink with air outlet at the top like this one found on thingiverse: Ormerod simple Aby ormerod168 - Ormerod
QuoteKaroo Klong Also what slicer did you use and perhaps settings? Also here's some Cura setting from another user Erikby ormerod168 - Ormerod
QuoteKaroo Klong The pistol print looks amazing. What material did you use for it? PLA from Filaprint AFAIR QuoteAlso what slicer did you use and perhaps settings? Simplify3D, 2 perimeters, 40mm/s, layer 0.2mm, infill 30%, temp. bed 62, nozzle 205, support no QuoteThose supports look like Simplify 3d generated. It's tinkercad Autodesk Meshmixer generated and included with the model Erikby ormerod168 - Ormerod
QuoteKaroo Klong Quoteormerod168 QuoteKaroo Klong Still nothing. Here you go - it's a bit dated, but so was the original request :-) Erik Why is it that when I load these .ini files, the Filament diameter always shows up as 3mm on Slic3r? I have Slic3r Prusa Edition 1.36.2-prusa3d-win64 Magic? - I don't know, haven't used Sli3er for a quite a while, uninstall, delete AppData/Application Datby ormerod168 - Ormerod
QuoteKaroo Klong Hahaha Oh so you have been there, done that? Dit it really suck (Blow) that bad? I highly admire the design so had to print it - the airflow from the axial fan is divided between cooling the hotend and nozzle tip though small tunnels so better than the original I think but not what I wanted - but again the design is amazing - lots of kudo's to the maker! Erikby ormerod168 - Ormerod
QuoteKaroo Klong Oh ok. So a snail fan is the only proper way to go? Yes, to tunnel the air and direct it to the nozzle you need pressure QuoteAn then of course the Cobra rype cooler? Yes, that is IMHO the best one possible to fit the ormerod original hotend Erikby ormerod168 - Ormerod
QuoteKaroo Klong Hello!!! Forgotten Treasure!!! I really like this cooling duct!!! Yes its cool but and a bit scary :-) Did a long post on it but cant find it, was fun to print and install but the airflow was not that great and for PLA only Erikby ormerod168 - Ormerod
QuoteKaroo Klong Do you not use this fan Duct any more Erik? No, it was good, way better than the original setup but did not distribute the air evenly around the nozzle as a proper ring cooler should ..like this one from thingiverse, look at the simulation picture, perfect! But its way too big to fit the ormerod so I ended up with the Cobra instead and its great Erikby ormerod168 - Ormerod