QuoteGreg_be johneato , did you think that polycarbonate is rigid enough to make a bed ? Having now made the bed from 5mm Polycarbonate I can say its definately rigid enough. Certainly a match for the acylic. I have also found it to be flatter than the acylic, first layer is much more consistent. Plus you will never break it.by johneato - Fisher
Ian I made the bed bulletproof too!! Regards Johnby johneato - Fisher
I have already replaced my microswitches with hall effect switches. Hall Effect Sensor Switch uni SIP-3 RS Stock No.680-7481 £1.666 each EA £8.33 They work very well and calibration is very consistent maximum change from one calibration to the next 0.01mm I modified the carrage to take a magnet I printed a carrier for the sensor IC which simply replaces the microswitch 5v is needed to be suppliby johneato - Fisher
QuoteGreg_be I don't have any "automated cutter" available. Just to know, which machine did you use to cut yours ? I use a CNC, nearly as much fun as 3D printingby johneato - Fisher
QuoteGreg_be johneato , did you think that polycarbonate is rigid enough to make a bed ? I believe it wil be rigid enough, I have just ordered some 5mm poly and so shortly will be able to give you a definitive answer. If not I will scale up the thickness and machine a 5mm rim around the bed to accomated the mounting and levelling PS I have 10 acrylic connecting rods looking for a good home,by johneato - Fisher
QuoteDC42 6. I think someone is planning to install one of my mini IR sensor boards to use instead of the bed switches. That would allow the use of stronger springs, or no springs at all. David What is the price and availability of your mini IR sensor boards. I am presuming these are compatable with Build Tak Regards Johnby johneato - Fisher
Quotejanpenguin What did you coat or paint on all the ball joints? Just a bearing grease called Ambergrease EXL. The fact it is red makes it standout.by johneato - Fisher
Just completed my first rebuild of Fisher, replacing all the acrylic panels with polycarbonate. Looks more now like a crystal citadel rather than a printer.The panels are 3mm and the corner post 10mm. Much more solid now and no more bulging side panels. Also did away with the microswitches and replaced them with Hall effect IC switches. The XYZ offsets are now very small and the consistency inby johneato - Fisher
To test your micro switches. Using the web interface send the Gcode M18 to disable all the motors. Move the three carriages by hand so they are not at the top (max) Send M119 to request end stop status Reply should be Endstops - X: not stopped, Y: not stopped, Z: not stopped. If you don't get this the offending microswitch is open circuit, you need to check your connections, both ends (microswitby johneato - Fisher
Quotejanpenguin I noticed the timing belt is always rubbing one side wall of the belt tensioner due to flat surface of 623 bearing. Had the same problem with the belt, a layer of rubber dust on the carriage and bed. Redesigned the idler assembly with 4 screws so the idler could be angled to keep the belt in the middle.by johneato - Fisher
QuotePRZ If you succeded to get out the hotend content, it is not really "pointy". Unfortunately, I forgot to make photos of what I get, but you see clearly that you get it out. Just happened to have an extracted piece of filament laying on the bench. Not sure if its from Fisher or Ormerod.by johneato - Fisher
I also found the belt lock to be too loose. I could make the teeth slip by tensioning the belt. Certainly couldn't make the belts 'twang' like the Ormerod. I have reprinted the carriages and they are now very tight. Regards Johnby johneato - Fisher
Quotedroftarts The Quick-set hot end is separate from the machine github repositories, as the same design is now used across Huxley Duo, Mendel 3 and Ormerod 2 (528.5 onwards, about to be updated). It's here: While Ormerod 2 up to 528.4 ships with the one-piece nozzle rather than the Quick-set nozzle, the fan spacer is the same. I think there was a different, earlier, version of it shipping witby johneato - Ormerod
Any chance Ian of a copy of the acylic spacer as a dxf?by johneato - Ormerod
Where can I find a dxf/stl of the acrylic fan spacer as used on Ormerod 2 Johnby johneato - Ormerod
Quotezombiepantslol I'm honestly surprised you manage to get the filament to stick when using a first layer height of 0.56mm. I wanted to increase the threshold to 0.55mm in my next fw release, but I'll rather go with 0.6mm now that I've seen your G-code Thanks again for sharing that excerpt! It does stick and the raft works really well when printing ABS. This seems to me to be a default settby johneato - Ormerod
Quote there is a known issue with the first layer height detection if your first layer is greater than or equal to 0.5mm. Can you share a sample G-code file? Hi zpl That now makes complete sense, and also explains the apparent intermittency. The prints where the layer statistics doesn't work, are prints with rafts, no raft and the layer statistics display normally. I have extracted part of theby johneato - Ormerod
Updated a few days ago to latest zpl software and web interface. The prints are excellent and I really like the new web interface.Everything seems to work via the interface except for the layer statistics, which remains on layer 1 for the duration of the print. The first layer time is updated and displayed and is more or less the same time as the print duration. Filament usage and estimates are aby johneato - Ormerod
Quote Here is a version of MasonStoneHenges Spring loaded extruder arm, modified to take a pneumatic bowden connector" Thanks Mattby johneato - Ormerod
QuoteI've made it exactly 4.5 on the 3d drawing - I always find with my slicer that I have to make every inner hole diameter about .4mm larger to make it perfect, but let me know if that's the right size? Updated .stl Is the PTFE tube hole large enough? Does anyone have an stl file for the other half of this modified extruder. The 'updated stl' only contains the modified half for the update to tby johneato - Ormerod
Quotejamesf Great design, will this work on the Ormerod 2? Looking at the STL they are not too different James To be honest I don't realy know, I don't have access to an Omerod 2 and dont know the differences. But I would be happy to have a look at the STLs and modify them if necessary. I have modified the design slightly to increase the width of a couple of walls. I can repost the the stls if thby johneato - Ormerod
MrCrispi I have to agree with you the the material support is superb. The auto process is very good at placing the support, but the manual adjustment afterwards is very easy. Very suprised how easily the support then breaks off leaving very little if anything to clean up. The whole package is very nice to use. Not had chance to look at the print time problem from the web interface, or printer conby johneato - Ormerod
QuoteMrCrispi ......via the usual web interface - however I completely up for moving the printer temporarily upstairs if you would like me to give it a go for you...just let me know Thanks for the offer but I have taken the plunge and bought the software. I have done a quick test and It fails to connect, not a big problem I will look at it later. I downloaded Erik's profile and managed to get a rby johneato - Ormerod
MrCrispi Do you use Simplify3D to do the slicing and then use the Web interface or Pronterface to control the printer or are you able to use the Simplify3D control panel to communicate and control the printer. Thanks Johnby johneato - Ormerod
MrCrispi & Erik Just been watching the videos of Simplify3D, it looks very impressive, do you have it working successfully with the Omerod. The very inpressive support options apart, do you think it produces better quality prints than Slic3r. Johnby johneato - Ormerod
Quotedroftarts Personally, I'd have preferred a hinged idler at the other end, and the Y-motor mounted solidly, but I got overruled! Perhaps someone would like to do a version...? Or take johneato's version ( here: ) and mirror it for the Orm2? Don't forget to add your updates to the improvements page: Thanks for the acknowledgement Ian, I am still using this hinged idler, and it is still workiby johneato - Ormerod
It is normal and is caused by the filament rubbing against the inside of the exruder where it enters. It may eventually wear a groove in the inlet. The solution is to print one of the modified extruders that have the facility to insert a PTFE tube. This cuts down the wear and noise. Can't find a reference to it at the moment, but I'm sure someone will point you in the right direction if you can'tby johneato - Ormerod
QuoteDC Hi John, yes that's all correct. The ADC calibration has nothing to do with what hot end or z probe board you are using. The parameters have been moved from the M301 command to M305 by agreement with RepRapPro. The same H and L parameters you used with the M301 command (if you were using any) should be the correct ones to use with the M305 command, assuming you are using the same Duet boaby johneato - Ormerod
QuoteDC42 1. I have added optional parameters L and H to the M301 (set hot end PID parameters) and M304 (set bed PID parameters) commands. These allow the offset and gain errors inherent in the SAM3X ADC to be corrected. The values you set are stored to flash memory, so they survive power down cycles and resets, but not re-flashing the firmware (which sets both values to zero). You can use positiby johneato - Ormerod
I am interested in a single nozzle board. But wonder if I bought a dual in case I decide to go that route, can I initilly configure it to operate on a single nozzle.by johneato - Ormerod