I'd also be interesting to know whether this change made any noticeable improvement as I had considered doing the same a little while ago.by bluesign2k - Fisher
If you want to go for GT2 then I can recommend ooznest.co.uk. If you do do that then don't forget to change your steps/mm in your configuration to 80 (if I remember correctly).by bluesign2k - Fisher
The 4 things that usually cause this are either: your first layer is too high (or sometimes even too low) your print surface has grease on the surface (from hands etc) you're printing too cold the filament diameter is set too high in the slicer and is causing the material to drag out of the nozzle. Can you provide a picture of your first layer?by bluesign2k - Fisher
I realise this topic is a couple of months old now but I'm not sure the point about the ball spacing was answered fully.... The ball spacing is one of the most critical things to get right on a delta. I suspect it's probably the biggest contributing factor when it comes to people being disappointed with their prints. The common misconception seems to be that as long as the spacings between the bby bluesign2k - Fisher
Yeh, I have to say that that is possibly one of the weirdest errors I've seen. Other than the obvious problem, the rest of the print looks not all that bad. I assume that none of the cables or bowden tube are catching on the arms either during printing or homing?by bluesign2k - Fisher
I agree with dc42 that the error on those cubes are very weird. Initially I would have said that that it looks like one or more of your arms are catching but the fact that the scaled cube seems to have just scaled the problem, it can't be that. The fact that the is a consistent gap between the perimeter and infill usually suggests a backlash issue (although I've only ever experienced this on Cartby bluesign2k - Fisher
The first Fisher I assembled the first time had exactly this issue, although not quite to that extent. It happens when one of the balls on either the carriage or effector is loose and is unscrewing when the head is moving. Or, more likely, it also happens if the spacing between the ball pairs on all 3 carriages and the effector aren't equal (and centred).by bluesign2k - Fisher
What are you trying to do with that code? Unless I'm mistaken, the first 3 lines won't have any effect on your print... lower the head, prove the bed and do nothing with the info and then raise the head? Are you trying to find the z plane of bed, like the setz.g macro? If so, you should use : G30 ; probe the bed to find the plane G1 Z0.35 ; raise the nozzle to a height that you have previously veby bluesign2k - Fisher
I've just bought a 19V fan from RRP to do exactly this, not because I think it needs it, just because it doesn't seem like a bad idea for the long term life of the board. I've had 3 Fishers running for 12 hours doing non-stop printing and didn't see them blink once.by bluesign2k - Fisher
WD40 is not useful for anything that isn't seized or rusty - it's not a lubricant. It's awful stuff that ruins polymers like acrylic. I have a bed off an old BFB that it comletely cracked and crazed where someone tried to lube the printer with WD40 that sprayed all over the place. I use 3 in 1 white lithium grease on the balls for the connection rods as it doesn't make the acrylic go crazy - sprby bluesign2k - Fisher
I bought a glass bed with a new buildtak and just used double sided tape to stick it to the old bed. Yeh, it means I lose a few mm in build height, but I dont build big things anyway so it's not a problem.by bluesign2k - Fisher
I still haven't had a chance to play with the coast on my system yet, although I can very much believe that it improved the print quality. It made the world of difference on my MendelMax after I converted it to having a Bowden tube. Today I came across a fun Jack-o-Lantern on Thingiverse (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:167043) I tried printing it out using some orange eSun stuff and was happyby bluesign2k - Fisher
I use my Fisher through a TP-Link router running OpenWrt in bridge mode. I use the default network settings in config.g other than a custom name and password. Could it be your router? I have a friend who connects his to his (Apple) router using Ethernet but the router refuses to do anything with the hostname. He has to connect over USB, open a terminal, query the IP then use the IP to connect.by bluesign2k - Fisher
I like your method of retaining the top of the rods / belt tensioning. I think I'll do something similar on mine - while grinding the rods and making acrylic stops for my test machine worked, your method seems to require a whole lot less effort. Can you show some pictures of your spool holder? I don't use the roll holder on the Fisher as I think it risks compromising the geometry too much. I currby bluesign2k - Fisher
Here's my latest SD files along with the matching S3D profile...by bluesign2k - Fisher
Indeed. You should be able to get better than 0.15. I'll upload a copy of my SD card when I get to a PC, but essentially I don't set any probe offset when probing the 9 radial points then I set an offset of -0.2 (if I remember correctly) to the centre. This is enough to get the build plane flat, then in my start code I call the setz.g macro from the latest RRP SD. This then sets z=0 at the rightby bluesign2k - Fisher
Okay, so it's not exactly what you were after, but it's still pretty interesting... I used a few pieces of Kapton tape to secure a borosilicate bed w/ Buildtak on top of the existing, cleaned bed. I reset the printer geometry back to the default: M665 Diagonal 160.00, delta radius 81.00, homed height 180.00, bed radius 75.0, X 0.00°, Y 0.00°, Z 0.00° M666 Endstop adjustments X0.00 Y0.00 Z0.00 Thby bluesign2k - Fisher
Is this assuming that the arms themselves are oversized? My arms are definitely 160 mm from hole to hole. I'll try to get those measurements for you today. I'll do a set of bed probes before and after some calibration cycles with the arms set to 160 mm and 162 mm. I'll use the glass bed to ensure there's minimal error from bed non-uniformity. I'll also print a couple of 100 mm diameter rings andby bluesign2k - Fisher
Yeh, tell me about it! Weird, ey? I've read the pdf for the maths behind delta printers and agree that it really should be 160 mm. However, I'm now wondering whether theres something it neglects. The original reason we bought the Fisher (at work), aside from the price, was to use it as a reference to understand them - I have a big (huge?) delta with a >1 m build height that I was struggling toby bluesign2k - Fisher
Cool. Well if someone finds any of it useful then at least I'm not wasting my time. I did the stripdown & re-build yesterday/today. I've made notes of what I did and any changes with some relevant pics... I'll tidy it up and get here here when I get some free time. In the mean time, here's a screenshot of the initial calibration and first print. I'm pretty happy with that, tbh. Yeh, it's striby bluesign2k - Fisher
Quotebgkdavis I've got a very similar plate in mind, but it will sit on top of the top plate, this way I maintain the positional keying feature of the top plate, and get to transfer the force to the rods. I've got a further idea where I can use some screws acting on the ends of the rods to do the belt tension function, but that may end up make dismantling very difficult would you care to shareby bluesign2k - Fisher
QuotebgkdavisThe idea of modifying the lower motor mounts to prevent slippage I like, but isnt the top plate supposed to use the rails to brace the belt tension in much the same way? The instructions are very clear about slackening belts before removing top for this reason. .... Id be looking at better ways of using the rails to brace the belt tension before stiffening the pannels, maybe extend yby bluesign2k - Fisher
I have build 4 Fishers for myself, work, and colleages at work (with another 3 to come). The first one has been rebuilt from scratch twice, as has my own one - I felt there were certain shortcomings with the assembly instructions that would otherwise enable a near perfect geometry at first build attempt. Using the knowledge gained from the first builds (and rebuilds), the last two I built reporteby bluesign2k - Fisher
If the part isn't hugely complex you can get around the Solidworks version problem by saving parts as a step files in the new version so that people can import them into older versions. I've done this a few times and found that Solidworks usually does a pretty good job of feature recognition from step files. I'm currently waiting for the 2015 upgrade at work too, I'm hoping I'll come through in tby bluesign2k - Fisher
I feel your problems are linked to your homing issues you describe in your other topic. Until you can home the head in the intended way and run the calibration without probe warnings I wouldn't even consider trying to print anything. Other than that, there's a bunch of information in the Simplify3D topic about calibrating the bed.by bluesign2k - Fisher
You're homing problem is odd. With the carriages NOT at their home position, what response do you get from M119? Edit: actually, having just seen your screenshot, it thinks that the bed sensor is already being probed?! What value does the Z sensor read when this message is shown? What is the trigger level set to in your config file?by bluesign2k - Fisher
Ah! Mystery solved! @Theolodian, my belts aren't as tight as you may think. I think the idler was screwed up a bit before the belt was fitted.by bluesign2k - Fisher
Looking at your video it seems as if the endstop isn't triggering at all. I can barely see the lever, which implies it isn't bent enough. Here's what mine look like:by bluesign2k - Fisher
That's better, but it's still not right. The homed height of ~182 is a bit odd too. The default height as 180 and it usually calibrates to less than that. I'd keep looking to see why your x endstop is so different to the others. Are the ball contacts on the edge of the bed clean and tight? Same with the contacts they connect with on the printer? I uploaded a target pdf in the Simplify3D topic (Iby bluesign2k - Fisher
Try Threedy filament. Its £18 per Kg for PLA or ABS. Maybe I'm a little biassed as I know the guys, but I certainly find that their PLA prints better than the eSun stuff, and I've seen plenty of stuff printed with their ABS that looks just fine.by bluesign2k - Fisher