Yes, in the same print. Thanks.by Theolodian - General
Currently using Repetier Host, slic3r and Marlin. Have one normal FFF/FDM extruder and another very different extruder. Tools offsets and temps are easy enough. I suppose you can't have different layer heights, but is there any way to have different print speeds, extrusion widths, etc. for each head? Thanksby Theolodian - General
I would like an E-stop that didn't require fiddling around with the USB cable to get the Duet to talk to the PC again as happens after a reset.by Theolodian - Duet
OK, thanks. In the future it would be nice if the endstops were interrupts and any endstop (including E0/E1) could be used as an emergency stop (print stop) without resetting the board. Just constructive feedback, I appreciate that I'm not paying you for this so don't stress about it. Thanks again!by Theolodian - Duet
I take it the E0 or E1 STP pins do not drive an interrupt, same as the other endstops? Any interrupts on the expansion header? Just use the reset pin on the expansion header? Pull high or low? Many thanks. Theoby Theolodian - Duet
I have searched but I'm probably not using the right search terms as usual. Duet 0.8.5 on recent firmware, I think DC42 1.13 "M106 P1 S(0-255)" with P1 for F1 still only controls F0 Any suggestions appreciated, many thanks.by Theolodian - Duet
I was wondering why the shop wasn't working over the hols. Too bad. The Fisher is very good for what it is but they can't be making enough money on it. Lots of unrealistic expectations for the price. Looks like RS will be selling Omerod 2's for cheap soon.by Theolodian - Fisher
Yeah, you have to check every reel. I have 6 reels at 1.75 and 1 at 1.80 - which is 7% off. The beauty of the web interface is that you can adjust the multiplier on the fly instead of having to re-slice everything for one colour.by Theolodian - Fisher
I read the Omerod post, but I'll reply here. I get this a lot, actually I get deep divots where it makes a big hole. I have to take the extruder apart regularly and clean the hobbed insert. I have the Beta and it grinds filament quite happily when it can't extrude. I don't have the latest firmware yet which is supposed to be better about setting the height. Most of my problems can be tracked baby Theolodian - Fisher
I had this. Search this forum for 'Don King', that's what my minion looked like after pulling the hot nozzle back out of it. My problem was that my ending script had a homeall command, and the home all went to Z 4mm after homing. However the part was more than 4mm tall... Solution was to NOT do a homeall in the end script, and NOT go to Z 4mm as part of homeall! Carriages don't fall on a Fisheby Theolodian - Fisher
You need to add a link to Bossac instructions in your sig... Impressive list of updates. Many kudos!by Theolodian - Fisher
Ah, OK. I thought it would be easier in the firmware. I knew I couldn't do it with gcode.by Theolodian - Fisher
I have one other request for your next update please. Have the entire bed probing fail if the bed switch(es) are triggered at the beginning of the routine. Currently it just carries on. Cheers.by Theolodian - Fisher
Someone said it can be fixed in the firmware. It worked about half the time for me with the versions of S3D and dc42 that were out this summer. Both have since been updated and now it never works. Either way I don't think it is something that you can fix with user settings.by Theolodian - Fisher
I find bending the build plate by hand works quite well.by Theolodian - Fisher
I use Velleman which is much trickier than eSun. Try adding 5C to the extrusion temp, turn on coasting and reduce the retraction speed.by Theolodian - Fisher
As mentioned in other threads I probe the bed with a cold nozzle because this is what Buildtak recommend. The nozzle must be absolutely clean and at room temperature. However, this can still cause a small error of 50 microns max after a print as some parts of the machine are still warm. Prints still work, but you can see the difference in the first later fill. First layer; height 250microns, speby Theolodian - Fisher
Starting script here, others attached. G32 M83 ; relative extruder mode T0 ; select extruder 0 M116 ; wait? G1 Z0.35 F4000by Theolodian - Fisher
No it isn't. Look for some of my posts on the subject. It is working well for me now, although as the machine gets warm the Z does change slightly.by Theolodian - Fisher
Hmmm, not that familiar with the Duet. Try the usual; reload firmware, cold solder joint, etc.by Theolodian - Fisher
For the record I am currently using the following settings: 200C on eSun, 205 first layer then 200 on Velleman (all colours so far) 0.5mm coast 4mm retraction distance, but 3.5-6mm all seems fine 50mm/s retraction speed 0.5mm extra restart No wipeby Theolodian - Fisher
I find it to be an issue of your local DNS. Ping it in a command prompt and look for the IP address, then use that in your browser.by Theolodian - Fisher
Try another filament. I have tried all of that with the same results.by Theolodian - Fisher
Is there anything that I can do in the starting script or in bed.g to error catch if the bed switches are open? I guess my springs are getting weak. If the bed is not sitting correctly it prints without probing instead of stopping or cancelling.by Theolodian - Fisher
He does have a handle that includes the word 'doc' and he wants medical grade lubricant, so there is a bit of a hint there. Yes, I have considered food grade silicone grease for the balls and food grade white grease for the rods, but I haven't tried it yet.by Theolodian - Fisher
I have looked at food grade silicone and food grade white grease. Both are suitable for the balls, I think the silicone is nicer. However, I don't think either is good for the linear bearings. I am afraid I don't have a good solution for that.by Theolodian - Fisher
Thanks. I probably will give that a try sometime, but as updating the firmware is a bit of a drama I'll leave it for now. I added that M0 to my ending script on dc42's firmware and it seems to be happy so far. I can; power up, home, print, clear bed and nozzle, and print again, and again and again. Pumpkin production in full swing!by Theolodian - Fisher
Odd, I can cancel the print which says M0 in the Gcode console, and then print again without homing - including G32. I don't want to home again as I have to hold the Bowden tube to not knock the endstop cable off. No I haven't sorted that properly yet. So what might the issue be? Are you saying that I do need to run M0 in the ending script to properly exit the print, or is there something elseby Theolodian - Fisher
OK, do I need to put an M0 in my ending script? When I go to do another print it doesn't do the G32. Cancel that print, and it does the G32 correctly. Maybe the previous print isn't exiting correctly? Also, I am running H0.4 at the towers in your above example dc42. A bit circular to then have Z-0.4 in config.g but it calibrates to under 20 microns and prints a good first layer so be it. (For thby Theolodian - Fisher