QuoteSean.kennedy So at the moment, my prints finish and the hot end lifts and I have a very short time to remove it till the head plummets down into the finished print. I have google and searched for a code or something to make the head go all the way up and stay there till I say otherwise. I use cura (I have 2 ultimaker 2s) and I have tried to add M112 even as an extreme measure to avoid this,by kellef - Fisher
QuoteDADIY Well. I just realised that 6 are broken. They seem to stress rack after the bolt. For a machine that I only commissioned on Sunday I would have expected the product to last better. I might email support tomorrow and see what they say. Has anyone had any luck with that? Not with the arms. Like i said, I never really broke them. But I've had some other pretty major issues and as aby kellef - Fisher
QuoteDADIY Well title says it all really. Maybe I've got a bad batch or perhaps the material choice is wrong but I've now had 5 of the acrylic rods break, I read somewhere that this new design was supposed to be better. I think I'll need to order up some carbon fibre rods and make the replacements I've seen suggested here. Perhaps that's what the kit should include in the first place. i madeby kellef - Fisher
Quotefloppah 9V? Pretty uncommon for a LED strip isn't it? Technically you could use one of the PWM headers on the duet to get whatever voltage you want up to 19V. Slightly unrelated, here is my lighting solution for the fisher: Two 5V addressable RGB LED strips (Adafruit Neopixel) for added disco experience. Using double sided tape to attach them to the front panel. 5V header is directly availaby kellef - Fisher
QuoteMartoh So, the fan duct is removed. The problem seems solved. But now, there is an adherence issue when printing inner circles. First layer is ok but for the next, the filament follow the nozzle and it reproduce at every layer. Not quite sure i understand what you mean! The filament sticks fine to the bed, but then when printing next layer, it doesn't stick together..? Or am I misunderstandiby kellef - Fisher
QuoteMartoh Since the beginning I've been unable to print a square. There is around 0.5° error between X and Y. Maybe because a bad carriage, maybe because the effector, I don't know. M556 seems to do nothing. The quality of print was good. I've printed the new effector. So the position of the balls look better (more flat) but the triangle is of course wrong (not equilateral). And then I sawby kellef - Fisher
Quoteupsch2000 try increasing print temperature i am printing 220-230 depending on the filament brand I hope it helped I removed the fan duct, and I'm now printing the first layer at 215 and the rest at 210! Haven't tried to go up even higher and put it back yet, since I'm facing some other problems right now I'm dealing with! But I think my thermistor is a little off, it shows 26-28 when theby kellef - Fisher
Quotedc42 If it probes the first point without slowing down, that suggests to me that the homing switch is triggering too low compared with the M666 correction you are using for that tower. After you have calibrated a few times, run M665 and M666 without parameters to see what the delta parameters and endstop corrections are, and then compare them with the values you have in the M665 and M666 comby kellef - Fisher
Quotebgkdavis Is it possible you have a wiring error? the nozzle should only just touch the bed for it to trigger. look at the z probe figure on the web interface, it should read zero then when you press lightly by each of the balls should jump to 1000. After calibration try a paper test on a few positions on the plate, you should jog the effector down until it just traps the paper, and note tby kellef - Fisher
hi! im having some problems with the nozzle pushing down to far on the printed part, so the whole bed gets pushed down! im not sure why this is and now i wonder if anyone here knows what im doing wrong? i am running the g32 autobed level a couple of times before the print starts! and theres a new problem there too! the first time i send a g32 the nozzle goes straight down and pushes the spring waby kellef - Fisher
QuoteTheolodian Yeah, have you calibrated extruder steps/mm yet? I have! I got it to something like 137.32..... Did this before the new Sd image was avaliable for download! Now i'm running it at 137! Ive ben thinking about replacing the bed with a glass one! Om mayby just 3m sticker a glass one on top of the current one and add a buildtak! But the bed shouldnt be that uneven i think? im not sureby kellef - Fisher
Quotepsneddon Quotekellef Okay, I finally removed the retraction completely and starter to use the web interface, the result was great, with no skipping! But now I have another problem! The retraction made the prints look nicer, but most importantly, I could lift Z so I wouldn't damage the print! So what retraction settings are you guys using that actually works? I will also try the "avoid crossby kellef - Fisher
Okay, I finally removed the retraction completely and starter to use the web interface, the result was great, with no skipping! But now I have another problem! The retraction made the prints look nicer, but most importantly, I could lift Z so I wouldn't damage the print! So what retraction settings are you guys using that actually works? I will also try the "avoid crossing parameters" function tby kellef - Fisher
Quoterogerdiver I don't if you have been following the Bowden tube thread? Your symptoms sound just like mine. In my case the tube being properly seated in the radiator. Once figured out every now works. Below is my last remarks copied from that thread. Perhaps might help? Paul rogerdiver [ PM ] Re: Issues with bowden feed... September 11, 2015 05:43AM Registered: 4 weeks ago Posts: 7 Thank forby kellef - Fisher
Quotebgkdavis Maybe you need to show a video of it printing at a much lower rate yet still skipping, slow your printing down so 1 rev of the extruder knob takes 20 seconds (its currently taking 14s ) I recall slic3r has a volumetric setting for the extrusion, try setting this to a max of 10cc/hr or even lower. If your still having problems with your web server then post your config file and a pby kellef - Fisher
Quotebgkdavis Why are you using Pronterface?, the on board control functions and web interface on the Duet make Pronterface redundant, just upload your Gcode to the SD card and run it from the web interface. From the video I estimate that your running at an extrusion rate of about 18 cc/hr, and because the skipping is infrequent I can guess it is a little beyond the limit of your extrusion capabby kellef - Fisher
i made a quick video of what is happening, hope this solves the problem! now that i think about it... maybe z compensation would help..? im always running at least once a g32, so it shouldnt be the problem but..? any thoughts?by kellef - Fisher
QuoteJelle Just did two tests of , one with no retraction, one with 2mm retraction at 40mm/sec. Unfortunately, both succeeded... I'll try with the 'normal' 4.5mm retraction next, it might be that 2mm is not enough to ease the pressure and actually retract filament from the hotend. i run 2mm also, when the printer was running it was enough for me at least! =) i just swapped the x motor for the exby kellef - Fisher
tried to reduce the retraction speed from 40mm/s down to 25mm/s, it did give some results, but it is still skipping... but now i can print, unlike before where it totally ruined the print... now it just skipps every now and then so problem is still there... gonna try reduce it some more, and shorten the lenght of retraction.. also, mayby i should try to completely remove retraction to see if it iby kellef - Fisher
Quotebgkdavis I tried the traxxas ball ends... way too tight Yeah klnda noticed that! Probably would work but for sure not the best solotuion! Had them laying around so I figured it was worth a shot! Just ordered the same you used nowby kellef - Fisher
Just made myself som carbon arms too! Used traxxas links for 5.8 mm balls, so it's a little tight but I figured with some lubrication it won't be a problem I hope! did you glue yours or did you just jam it in there? Not quite sure if it's tight enough to hold still... Just tested with some glued shrinktube, hope it holds up, don't want to superglue/locktite them, so much harder to get the exactby kellef - Fisher
QuotePRZ There was stl for the PETG/ABS in my first post. STL file attached for the PLA option (less stiff), but I am not extremely confident of proper operation in PLA. I have not tested. You may wait the tests of Greg_be on this material. PLA quality is also quite variable. A solution in case of crack on PLA could be to lengthen the fork (and increase thickness accordingly). Great! mayby iby kellef - Fisher
any chance theres an STL file for this you can uppload, or have i just missed it in the thread..? sry if thats the case, but i cant open scad files... just discovered a crack in one of the arms!by kellef - Fisher
sorry for double posting, thought i might add if it makes more sense to someone, in the beginning i had NO problems with this, i havnt changed any settings, i havnt touched anything on the printer other than cleaning it out and such... and my biggest print was about 5 hours with no skipping what so ever! this problem came out of the blue really!by kellef - Fisher
Quotedc42 Are you sure it caused by a blockage? The extruder motor on the Fisher is run at quite a high current (1.2A) and the Duet is mounted horizontally, which is not ideal for cooling. If the ambient temperature is high, could the stepper driver be overheating and going into thermal shutdown? You could use a small fan to blow air across the Duet along the line of the stepper drivers - that isby kellef - Fisher
QuoteTheolodian In slic3r. It pulls back a few mm and slams it back forward with the same speed setting. More prevalent when moving across open spaces but also does it every layer. Mine had issues at 3,000mm/min - dropped to 2500 and much happier even though I increased the retraction distance a bit. You end up with a bulb at the end of the filament between the end of the bowden tube and where thby kellef - Fisher
QuoteTheolodian Did you reduce the retraction speed? i did not! is this also in the config.g file or is this in slic3r? but retraction speed should only effect the pullback of the filament, not the feeding, or am i wrong here? because the retraction is not the problem, it skipps mid printing! maybe im missunderstanding that term also?by kellef - Fisher
QuoteGreg_be This is the config.g in the zip I downloaded yesterday oh, thats wierd! i must have clicked the wrong download or something..? im 100% sure that the new i just downloaded was at 144! haha, my bad! well, about to test my second print at 137 now, first one didnt skip at all, so thats good i guess! =) EDIT: STILL skipping, when i tried the second print... im really out of ideas now...by kellef - Fisher
QuoteGreg_be This change is also integrated (but not described) in the last Fisher SD image 020915 hmm, you sure? checked the config.g file for e steps, still 144 in the new update..? im gonna try it out now anywas, if its better ill stick to it, if not, back to my 137 steps! mayby im missunderstanding what this is? =)by kellef - Fisher
so i just calibrated the extruder drive! printing first print now, no skipping so far, although this is a small print, gonna have to try some bigger stuff after this! i changed from 144 steps per mm to 137, which was about 5 mm of raw filament... could it really make that big of a difference? crossing fingers now! i have an old print of the thing im printing now for comparision! still printing frby kellef - Fisher