Will you be releasing the schematic for the v2 board in the future? Only I have an embryo of a plan which is to design and make (well OshPark can actually make it for me) a single PCB for my HyperCube Evolution I'm currently building which would terminate all the various cables from the control board (Fans, Heater, Thermistor, X End Stops etc.) on the X carriage somewhere. And I'd also like to inby lord_alan - General
Apologies for the noise - I did some more tests this morning and could get the led to flash under pressure changes on the disc so the board seems to be working correctly. FWIW I found I had to be _extremely_ careful turning back VR2 so the LED went out. Maybe I had turned it back too far on my previous tests...by lord_alan - General
Quoteokercho Sorry, I promised this video couple of weeks ago, but I wasn't able to record it until now. Thanks for that video. That is what I am now seeing too and reported a few days ago - but I only have the one board :-(by lord_alan - General
Thanks. Yes I am using the manual for the v1 board. I'll check everything carefully.by lord_alan - General
Newbie/Dumb question coming up ;-) I bought a Universal board recently and as I have an account with RS I bought some Murata discs from them (20mm). Using a simple 3.3.v LDO power supply (I use when messing about with ESP8266 chips) I stuck a couple of dupont connectors on one of the discs and got the led to flash on and off on the board by applying virtually no pressure on the disc - :-) Howby lord_alan - General
We have a Fisher Delta Beta and I am trying to find out what was in the fastener set. Does anyone know if this is documented anywhere? On the original packing slip it just says "1215 Fisher Fastener Set" I know I need quite a few m3 caphead and button head screws but can I remember all the dimensions? And any m4, or m2 etc...? TIAby lord_alan - Fisher
Definitely make some carbon arms Ronnie... Carbon arms description of my makeby lord_alan - Fisher
Nice. The build is in a very different order from the Beta...by lord_alan - Fisher
We've found White Spirit works OK to remove greasy finger marks etc from the bed. We are using a molybdenum grease on the ball joints - came from the same place I bought the carbon fibre rod for the arms; nothing as yet on the linear bearings.by lord_alan - Fisher
Quotedc42It means that the calibration results are applied when you start up the printer. So even if you don'd run auto calibration before a print, the calibration should be reasonable accurate. Thanks! So does setting these parameters make any difference to the way the calibration runs afterwards - or is it simply there as a kind of "fail-safe" in case you forget to run G32 before you print?by lord_alan - Fisher
Sorry - I'm still very much a n00b and don't really understand the whole calibration thing. I have done what I've read though; which is to run G32 (The bed probe routine) quite a few times, then type M665 and M666 into the console and copy the results to my config.g file. What difference that all makes I don't really have any idea yet - lol.by lord_alan - Fisher
Check that the filament hasn't been worn down by the feeder before so there is a "flat" on it. This happens to us quite frequently - once the filament gets to the flat bit in the extruder it then stops. (You can sometimes give the filament a push to get it past that bit again).by lord_alan - Fisher
I want to thank everyone for their input. After fixing the lose ball-ends and the play in the spindle and the cracked effector plate (with Araldite) I didn't bother trying to make all the ball dimensions accurate and thought I'd see how it performed first... To say I'm pleased is an understatement :-D I'd better let my son have go for a little while now and then talk him into re-building itby lord_alan - Fisher
Thanks for all the ideas and suggestions... This has been an excellent learning process - for me at least ;-) After removing 4 of the carbon arms last night I found quite a few issues ... * Several of the ball-ends had not locked so were freely rotating * On the X axis of the Effector on one side near the ball end, the middle layer of the three plates had a small piece that was loose! i.e. it hby lord_alan - Fisher
The firmware update didn't help unfortunately. I started the same 25mm print and the same deflection pattern at the top is there on the first layer so I just cancelled it. So unless the deflection is embedded in the gcode (is that possible ?) I guess I'd better start dissasembling and checking the ball-ends. It's funny - but when I do the bed calibration thing (G32) I think I can see a deflectiby lord_alan - Fisher
Ignore that one. I needed sudo - had no privs to access to the device file - lol. alanlord@bigyan:~/3DPrinting/RepRapFirmware/Release$ sudo ~/bin/arduino-1.6.1/hardware/tools/bossac --port=ttyACM0 -e -w -v -b RepRapFirmware-1.09k-dc42.bin Erase flash Write 229776 bytes to flash [==============================] 100% (898/898 pages) Verify 229776 bytes of flash [==============================] 1by lord_alan - Fisher
Just FYI it does create a dev file when I plug the USB cable in /dev/ttyACM0by lord_alan - Fisher
Hmmm, following these instructions I have apparently erased the flash but lsusb only reports the: Bus 003 Device 016: ID 03eb:6124 Atmel Corp. at91sam SAMBA bootloader And when I run the bossac command I get back: alanlord@bigyan:~/3DPrinting/RepRapFirmware/Release$ ~/bin/arduino-1.6.1/hardware/tools/bossac -e -w -v -b RepRapFirmware-1.09k-dc42.bin Auto scan for device failed Try specifyinby lord_alan - Fisher
Thanks. Will attack that tomorrow - I appreciate your input.by lord_alan - Fisher
Thanks dc42 It's currently on 1.09c-dc42 (2015-06-25). I will grab that tomorrow and try but surely it can't be software thing can it - everyone would be seeing it? (I run a small Open Source Software engineer/consulting Co.)by lord_alan - Fisher
Quotebluesign2k The first Fisher I assembled the first time had exactly this issue, although not quite to that extent. It happens when one of the balls on either the carriage or effector is loose and is unscrewing when the head is moving. Or, more likely, it also happens if the spacing between the ball pairs on all 3 carriages and the effector aren't equal (and centred). Thanks. I have measuredby lord_alan - Fisher
Just for my own curiosty I scaled up the image in Slic3r by 25% to see if the abberation grew linearly along the X and Y axis or if it would stayed proprtionally the same. It stayed exactly the same so to me that is a good thing in that this is a repeatable and predictable problem which should be solvable. There is the shift to the right at the top of both cubes, the gap in the fill on the leftby lord_alan - Fisher
Quotedc42 Try printing e.g. a 25mm calibration cube so that all of us can get a better idea of what the problem is. Thanks - that was a good suggestion. (I'm James' dad and we are both n00bs at this 3D printing lark) I found a cube which I thought would be helpful: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:298812. Attached below are the screenshots of: * the Slic3r programme (we used the standard Fisby lord_alan - Fisher
Thanks peeps. Helpful stuff!by lord_alan - Fisher
Sorry to jump in on your thread but my son just got his first 3D printer and we have made a couple of prints which are "ok". I think we need to calibrate the printer however. I'm a software engineer and fairly technical but I'm at a bit of a loss as to where do I start to understand what it is you are all talking about? lol QuoteThis is what 10 point 7 factor probing is giving me. I have triby lord_alan - Fisher
Yes - they move fine once on but there was NO WAY I could push them on without softening them up a bit.by lord_alan - Fisher
Got them on last night but man they were tight... I had to immerse the arms in a pan of boiling water for a few minutes to soften the plastic a little. Then quickly dry, grease and pop them on the balls. But we did a test print and they work :-D Next will be to re-callibrate the machine I think before we print the new version 1.0 replacement parts. Thanks for the idea. They "look" much better tby lord_alan - Fisher
I really liked bgkdavis' idea of the Carbon Arms and as we have had some breakages with the Acrylic part we decided to have a go at making some too. First I built a simple jig to make sure all the Arms were kept the same length. This consisted of a nice thick block of planed and square timber, and some 6mm dowl. I marked two holes in the timber using an acrylic arm as the template to get the cenby lord_alan - Fisher
Quotedroftarts I have answered Ian separately by email: We would really like to understand how they have broken. We haven't had any breakages in 6 weeks of testing! Please could you consider, and give me some feedback, on the following: 1. Please send me a picture showing how they have broken. Send any other pictures that may also be appropriate. 2. I understand that they have broken around tby lord_alan - Fisher