Show all posts by user
... it's a small Delta printer from RepRapPro
Re: Carbon Arms (Again) - 9 years ago
Quotehakimio QuoteSean.kennedy Have you guys seen this? Rod ends kits comes as 180 instead of 160, but its a complete kit. though i know these are the imperial sized ends rather than the metric. * If you choose "preassembled" option, it says they don't have it in stock * Ball ends might not fit on Fisher's small balls fisher has 6mm balls, the Traxxas 5347 rod ends use 6.2mm balls... if youby Sean.kennedy - Fisher
Re: Carbon Arms (Again) - 9 years ago
Have you guys seen this? Rod ends kits comes as 180 instead of 160, but its a complete kit. though i know these are the imperial sized ends rather than the metric.by Sean.kennedy - Fisher
Re: Wood and Bronze Filament - 9 years ago
QuoteByteSlinger Has anyone tried printing either bronze or wood filament with their Fisher? I'm very interested in trying out both. I've used woodfill filament before with great results, but never metal.by Sean.kennedy - Fisher
Re: RepRapPro closed down, but need a rod - 9 years ago
QuoteDADIY Quoteronnietucker Hi! With RepRapPro now closed, is there anywhere else that sells the Fisher rods? One of mine broke. Thanks! Ronnie Hi Ronnie, You might like to search the forum here for cabon fiber rods, there appears to be at least a batch of rods that are breaking for people. The carbon rods are quite easy to make and should even make the machine quieter to run. If you reby Sean.kennedy - Fisher
Re: new effector and carraige - 9 years ago
So this is what i see doing so far, i hope its right.... looks a bit odd. these are all the same item from different angles.by Sean.kennedy - Fisher
Re: new effector and carraige - 9 years ago
QuoteDADIY QuoteSean.kennedy Quotebgkdavis Took time to take a few pictures of the new parts, so far they are proving to be pretty successful. the 6/10 calibration returns 0.05 pretty reliably and I've been getting some great prints. I've also added a power switch to my Fisher, got fed up with having to pull the plug to turn it off. These pics show the assembly pretty clearly, the M3 nuts canby Sean.kennedy - Fisher
Re: new effector and carraige - 9 years ago
Quotebgkdavis Took time to take a few pictures of the new parts, so far they are proving to be pretty successful. the 6/10 calibration returns 0.05 pretty reliably and I've been getting some great prints. I've also added a power switch to my Fisher, got fed up with having to pull the plug to turn it off. These pics show the assembly pretty clearly, the M3 nuts can be seen in the slots and theby Sean.kennedy - Fisher
Re: Spare parts - 9 years ago
QuoteThorn666 Im a totally noob on electronics, what would be the changes necesary to the duet board, etc to change the voltage? nothing to the board itself. All changes are on the effectorby Sean.kennedy - Fisher
Re: new effector and carraige - 9 years ago
Quotegeeksarebeta Thanks for the advice on the speed of print, mine too look like they're 0.2 so will probably stick with that and modify the speed a little, when I am confident of getting the right level of accuracy. Also, as promised I have evolved the original design of the new effector to suit the very different Fisher 1 design, please have a look at the attached picture and provide feedbackby Sean.kennedy - Fisher
Re: new effector and carraige - 9 years ago
Quotegeeksarebeta What print setting did you use for the parts? Obviously you've not used a Fisher to print them but did you use a layer height of 0.1 or 0.2? I have two settings for slic3r, standard and fine and wondering which would be best for printing printer parts? Just examining the parts included in the kit, they all looked like they were 0.2 or 0.3, so i did mine in 0.2 and a nice slow sby Sean.kennedy - Fisher
Re: new effector and carraige - 9 years ago
All done, just waiting on parts from eBay. Yay!by Sean.kennedy - Fisher
Re: Spare parts - 9 years ago
Quotedc42 Going to 12V or 24V means you can use standard components. As the Fisher has no heated bed, it is only the heater cartridge and fan that need to be changed. 24V is better if you might in future want to upgrade to 0.9deg/step motors. Really? that seems too simple! so no changes would be needed for codes or to the duet board itself? and obviously the power supply itself would need to beby Sean.kennedy - Fisher
Re: Spare parts - 9 years ago
QuoteDADIY I haven't been able to find a 19v one anywhere, but 12v ones are easy to source which would mean that you need to change the PSU and the fan to 12v (12v ones on ebay are 99p delivered). You seem to really be pushing for the 12v thing, (im not criticizing) but just out of curiosity, what are the benefits of making it 12v and how hard would it be to make the entire thing 12v?by Sean.kennedy - Fisher
Re: new effector and carraige - 9 years ago
Quotegeeksarebeta Quotebgkdavis A single threaded bar is exactly what I wanted to avoid with this design, it doenst achieve the end goal of having an easy to adjust ball spacing, you will find that you will have to file the bars down individually to get the spacing's correct.....on the plus side it will give a more robust assembly, but ive been running with my original design for a few months nowby Sean.kennedy - Fisher
Re: new effector and carraige - 9 years ago
Im printing these right now, though i have enlarged the nut holes to fit nylon locking ones and bought 25mm slugs rather than 20. Sadly I had a mishap with my printer the other day resulting in a significant dismantle. After putting it back together i cant get a better deviation than 0.160... so Im going to do a full rebuild on it. @bgkdavis can you take a few more pictures so i know im assemblinby Sean.kennedy - Fisher
Re: End of print coding 
- 9 years ago
QuoteDADIY Do you mean slow to slice or slow to print. If it's the first one then yes it reslices every time you change something and it's not very quick. Unlike S3D which is amazingly fast. Hmmmm what is this S3D you speak of?by Sean.kennedy - Fisher
Re: End of print coding - 9 years ago
QuoteDADIY Odd, I'm using Slic3r 1.2.9 and I've attached my config bundle to see if that any better for you. So tried your file at home and works. Thought is redonculously slow. Will give it a go though.by Sean.kennedy - Fisher
Re: Twin Extruders for Fisher? - 9 years ago
Quotegeeksarebeta Have just taken this snapshot from the STEP file int he github repository for Fisher. Looks like someone was experimenting with feeding two strands of filament into the extruder head? I can only assume that this would need the first to be retracted for the second to pass into the nozzle, and there would have to be a small squirt to clear any residue of the first filament beforeby Sean.kennedy - Fisher
Re: End of print coding - 9 years ago
QuoteDADIY The pre created fisher profile for slic3r works pretty well and can be found on git hub here One thing to note is that Slic3r and Cura use different positioning by default, once is absolute whilst the other is relative, if you use the wrong one it goes really really slow. I assume for your cura profile that your not controlling tools or temperature etc. slicer crashes every timeby Sean.kennedy - Fisher
Re: End of print coding - 9 years ago
So im giving slic3r another go, and im just going through all the configs to iron out bugs. does anyone have a good set of start and end codes. Currently i use cura, and i have no issues with its default start codes but use this as my end codes. M104 S0 ;extruder heater off G28 ;Home head and move out of the way G91 ;relative positioning M84by Sean.kennedy - Fisher
Re: Just broken my first 3D printed part!!! - 9 years ago
QuoteDADIY That's handy. But It's a good reminder for everyone to print some spares as soon as they can. Tonight I was trying to get cura working (again) and it seems to be starting at z0 so the extruder can't get any filament out, In the few seconds before I stopped it I managed to block the nozzle and break the filament halfway down the Bowden tube. So tomorrow's job is to remove the tubby Sean.kennedy - Fisher
Re: Just broken my first 3D printed part!!! - 9 years ago
QuoteDADIY Do you have a spare?? No, sadly. But I can print one tomorrow at work. I just thought it was funny with all the talk of them closing and needing parts and such.by Sean.kennedy - Fisher
Just broken my first 3D printed part!!! - 9 years ago
Broke an idler!!! oh well, thats printing done for today.by Sean.kennedy - Fisher
Re: What to do after printing? - 9 years ago
Quotedc42 QuoteSean.kennedy QuoteDADIY Yep your spot on. Except you can't move the plug as the standard is three pin and the fan point is two pin. I attached a two pin cable to the existing one and set the temp to 35c. It's now silent until the hot end gets above 35c. I have a few cables that fit. If you pm me an address I'll send you one. It doesnt work!! Did all the wiring and nothing.by Sean.kennedy - Fisher
Re: What to do after printing? - 9 years ago
QuoteDADIY Yep your spot on. Except you can't move the plug as the standard is three pin and the fan point is two pin. I attached a two pin cable to the existing one and set the temp to 35c. It's now silent until the hot end gets above 35c. I have a few cables that fit. If you pm me an address I'll send you one. It doesnt work!! Did all the wiring and nothing. i see there is supposed to bby Sean.kennedy - Fisher
Re: What to do after printing? - 9 years ago
QuoteDADIY That should work. On mine the yellow cable was positive, but I'd check yours with a meter before you change yours just in case. Way ahead of you, already did it!by Sean.kennedy - Fisher
Re: Stainless steel nozzel - 9 years ago
QuoteDADIY Came across this uk supplier today that carries a lot of the cool filaments. Not sure if they are the cheapest but it's uk stock. They also have free samples you can add to orders. [3dfilaprint.com] I'm a DT teacher and theyre our schools supplier! They have so many amazing cool ones. I was using white to Blue UV filament the other day.by Sean.kennedy - Fisher
Re: Stainless steel nozzel - 9 years ago
QuoteDADIY I believe so. You should be fine printing carbon fibre. I know it's in my future plans. printing carbon fibre in 3, 2, 1.... YAYby Sean.kennedy - Fisher
Re: What to do after printing? - 9 years ago
QuoteDADIY Yep your spot on. Except you can't move the plug as the standard is three pin and the fan point is two pin. I attached a two pin cable to the existing one and set the temp to 35c. It's now silent until the hot end gets above 35c. I have a few cables that fit. If you pm me an address I'll send you one. yep certainly saw that coming (pin changing i mean) i have loads of "dupont cby Sean.kennedy - Fisher
Stainless steel nozzel - 9 years ago
The fisher has a stainless steel nozzle right?by Sean.kennedy - Fisher