Looks great, did any changes need to be made to the scripts? I may adopt this as I need to change my idler assemblies.by geeksarebeta - Fisher
When you assembled did you tighten and loctite the threaded balls to the carriages and the effector? This would explain some wavyness if the balls are rotating when the carriage is traversing, moving the position of one ond of the arm perpendicular to the direction of travel and making the movement of the effector inaccurate. First thing I'd check. Have you been able to print things before withby geeksarebeta - Fisher
I love my Fisher too, how have you calibrated yours? I have printed a couple of new parts but wary of using them in case they're inaccurate, leading to other prints with inaccuracies in them.by geeksarebeta - Fisher
Nice, what settings did you use? Are you getting good dimensional accuracy?by geeksarebeta - Fisher
eMaker have some 19v 40mm fans for sale that could be put in place of the logo. I've bought one but not fitted it yet as I intend to make new side panels that aren't so bendy.by geeksarebeta - Fisher
Quotebgkdavis Good luck, Ive been running my original design for 6 months now and have found the inside locking nut isnt needed, using threaded rod will mean you lose the easy adjustability you get with a hex grub screw, and the longest grub screws avaialable to me were 25mm, which meant a locking nut on the inside wasnt practical, which is why I dropped it from my original concept. I got M3x20by geeksarebeta - Fisher
QuoteDADIY I'd also check that your three screws on your built plate are all the same height, stick your calipers over to be sure. Also check the contact points are tight as I found they can come loose and then they drift upwards a little bit. I'd also recommend you invest £4 in a glass bed, my local glass company cut me some circles in 2mm and 4mm float and only charged me £4 each. I theby geeksarebeta - Fisher
My modified carriage (with the added space for lock-nuts inside) is now on Thingiverse: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1469961 For everyone to download. I will also upload a modified design for the effector with a similar arrangement of the adjustment balls when I have got a good working version that prints OK, my current one appears to have topo much overhang and too much support structure nby geeksarebeta - Fisher
I've been wanting to do this as I usually have a desk lamp pointed at the printer while in use as I like to watch so having some lighting would be great, just have to find some 5V lighting now that would be suitable, I know Ikea have a USB lamp, but I'd prefer strip LEDs if I can get them.by geeksarebeta - Fisher
Just open question, not sure I've seen this anywhere but is there a reason why carbon is being used instead of 4mm aluminium rod? e.g. Alum Rod - Wickesby geeksarebeta - Fisher
QuoteStupendousMan Quotedc42 A common choice for delta printers is Traxxas 5347 rod ends, 20mm M4 set screws, and 6mm o.d. carbon fibre tube. The Traxxas ends are widely available on eBay and from RC shops. I made some like above for one of my Fishers. The rod ends weren't even offial traxxas, but matching dimensions and part number. I don't find them loose, you just have to assemble them correby geeksarebeta - Fisher
Thanks for the reply, I went ahead and made the parts, once with the grid directly on the bed and again with the grid upwards. Grid down failed on later layers because of the overhanging layers above the grid, the walls themselves did form well and were a good thickness as the machine extruded more to make up the thickness. But part was no good due to the over hanging material falling in. The sby geeksarebeta - Fisher
Does anyone know what the minimum wall thickness achieveable reliably with the Fisher is? I have a need to print a grid pattern with wall thickness of 0.6mm, woul dthis be possible with the 0.4mm nozzle or would there be issues with the strength of the walls? Thanksby geeksarebeta - Fisher
Had a nightmare evening printing today, started off struggling to extrude, but got the in the end, then parts wouldn't stick to the buildtak and then once I'd got a print to stick and got 95% of the way through the build it stopped extruding! Not happy as I was printing something for my wife for Valentine's Day. But the weird thing about it is that I cannot get the filament out of the hot end, whby geeksarebeta - Fisher
What temperature are you using to print? What are you trying to print? I have had issues with the print bending up as it cools blocking the nozzle (there's no room between the part and the nozzle for the filament to extrude).by geeksarebeta - Fisher
I have modelled a Fisher 1 effector with bgkdavis' boltig concept included but I have not tried to build it yet, I'm not sure how the big overhanging section on the middle will cope, will probably need support material. I think I might need to make a few changes. There's a post somewhere above with an image of it, if anyone wants to try printing it I can supply the STL file next week (I need my wby geeksarebeta - Fisher
You seem to have a mixture of beta and Fisher 1 parts? Was that the intent.by geeksarebeta - Fisher
Just wondered if anyone has printed one as a spare on the Fisher. I have been looking at a modified version and am concerned that the layers above the large void in the centre will not print properly as there's not a lot of material there to support the print. Hopefully the two attached pictures will show this, I have turned on the support material in slic3r, but not confident that that amount ofby geeksarebeta - Fisher
Thanks for the advice on the speed of print, mine too look like they're 0.2 so will probably stick with that and modify the speed a little, when I am confident of getting the right level of accuracy. Also, as promised I have evolved the original design of the new effector to suit the very different Fisher 1 design, please have a look at the attached picture and provide feedback, I'll hold off onby geeksarebeta - Fisher
What print setting did you use for the parts? Obviously you've not used a Fisher to print them but did you use a layer height of 0.1 or 0.2? I have two settings for slic3r, standard and fine and wondering which would be best for printing printer parts?by geeksarebeta - Fisher
Quotebgkdavis I would suggest that you look at the Fisher 1 effector and do a mashup of my original fisher beta based design and the fisher 1 Already on this, hope to have a model ready by the end of today, but I'm replacing the plain nuts inside both parts with additional lock nuts.by geeksarebeta - Fisher
QuoteSean.kennedy Thats a good idea, im fortunate enough to have a ultimaker 2 as well that i use for work. its printing all these peices now using green to yellow thermochromic filament to be able to monitor how hot the pieces are getting while in use. WOW, thats incredible. I've used a lot of thermal paint in the past but never a polymer. Would result in a fairly colourful printer I assume.by geeksarebeta - Fisher
Quotebgkdavis A single threaded bar is exactly what I wanted to avoid with this design, it doenst achieve the end goal of having an easy to adjust ball spacing, you will find that you will have to file the bars down individually to get the spacing's correct.....on the plus side it will give a more robust assembly, but ive been running with my original design for a few months now and its been no pby geeksarebeta - Fisher
I'm having a couple of problems with 3Dbenchy, it mostly prints ok, until I get to the roof where it failed twice, as soon as it does the top of the arches it stops extruding. I think this is down to the PLA bending upwards where the over hangs are being formed. Does anyone have any advice? I've used slic3r for this with the standard print settings from the GitHub profile for Fisher. Experiencedby geeksarebeta - Fisher
Mock up of the threaded rod version of the carriage assembly. Makes the part that carries the load a bit stronger by having more material in it, FYI I do not believe the balls are threaded that deep. I have ordered some threaded bar to see if it will work, will print a mock up carriage to give it a go.by geeksarebeta - Fisher
The e3d heatsink is wider and longer than the RRP one, so there'd need to be a change to the effector head, though the actual form of it could probably stay the same.by geeksarebeta - Fisher
QuoteDADIY QuoteCaribou I had thought about using Neo Magnets insead of the balls and someone has done something like it - part of this "thing" is an E3D adaptor for his effector - I wonder if it's worth looking into modifying this with the Fisher in mind? Effector using magnets For printing PLA we would need cooling for the heat sink and the plastic being put down, I would assume all we wouldby geeksarebeta - Fisher
Have just taken this snapshot from the STEP file int he github repository for Fisher. Looks like someone was experimenting with feeding two strands of filament into the extruder head? I can only assume that this would need the first to be retracted for the second to pass into the nozzle, and there would have to be a small squirt to clear any residue of the first filament before starting to printby geeksarebeta - Fisher
Thanks guys! I have a sample of rigid.ink filament coming so will be looking for something to test it with.by geeksarebeta - Fisher
QuoteDADIY Wouldn't bolting something like this directly to the effector be better, then the width can be in the printed part and a self tapping bolt to hold these on. It would also be nice to see a version of this that an e3d hot end would fit, as it looks like quickset nozzle replacements could be an issue. That is a good solution, but I would be concerned over the level or articulation avby geeksarebeta - Fisher