How much plastic have you been able to push with your large printers? Anyone get past the 40mm3 / second, that is often quoted as the max for Volcano? I ask, because I'm still on the fence between cartesian simplicity and corexy cleverness. I need about 185mm/s to get 40mm3 with a .6 nozzled Volcano. The machine is a basic cbot style cube of 60x80x80cm outer dimensions, to be built from 40x40 tsby StupendousMan - General
I promised to build a largeish (has to fit through doors) printer for a startup. I have neither talent nor time to roll my own, so help me make a choice here, please. I'm open to anything with a decent BOM, these are just what I've stumbled into. Cbot / Dbot. Proven design, but is it still rigid enough after scaling the size up significantly and hanging double direct extruders on? Open Gigabot,by StupendousMan - General
Quotejanpenguin Things to do: - Relocate the extruder to outside of panel - Replace diagonal arms with rod end bearings and carbon or aluminum rods. - Soldering the end stop switches? We seem to be doing similar things. Here are my panels with extruder access hole and modified end stop mounts for screws: And here's an (untested) idea for traxxas rod end rods:by StupendousMan - Fisher
Epoxy it, and print a spare yourself? What continent?by StupendousMan - Fisher
That's one happy looking Fisher. The hall sensors are definitely nicer, but I did reach decent accuracy with microswitches last night. At first I tried epoxy, that was a messy failure. What worked was drilling the switch mounting holes in panels to 3mm, and honing the microswitch holes slightly with a 2.5mm drill bit. The microswitch holes are already 2.5mm diameter, but removing a tiny bit ofby StupendousMan - Fisher
Quotejmg123 Have you considered moving away from micro switches? .... I'll try and pop some pictures up if it would be usedul Please do!by StupendousMan - Fisher
Made access hole for extruder in front panel. ...And 16mm power switch hole. Under the usb socket.by StupendousMan - Fisher
I don't think anyone officially sells Fishers, but member jmgiacalone still has parts for sale. I bought a complete kit from him recently, he might still have everything in stock?by StupendousMan - Fisher
Quotedc42 A common choice for delta printers is Traxxas 5347 rod ends, 20mm M4 set screws, and 6mm o.d. carbon fibre tube. The Traxxas ends are widely available on eBay and from RC shops. I made some like above for one of my Fishers. The rod ends weren't even offial traxxas, but matching dimensions and part number. I don't find them loose, you just have to assemble them correctly. (Edit: Used tby StupendousMan - Fisher
Haven't used those, but am interested. You'd lose some weight with small bushings vs lm8u, even more if you designed a slimmer carrier around the bushings.by StupendousMan - Fisher
Yes, twice the weight of carbon tubes. 50% more than original Fisher acrylic rods (which, most agree, are not good). Strength-wise somewhere between the two.by StupendousMan - Delta Machines
Has anyone tried this type of rod? I'm sure it's an order of magnitude weaker than 6mm carbon tubes, but I'm thinking still strong enough? For a Fisher at least, these are nearly free, being they fit on cutoffs. Designed for traxxas rod ends, to be cut from 3mm thick s355 steel. Rod is 4mm wide.by StupendousMan - Delta Machines
The microswitch mounting holes are 2.5mm, just small enough that an M3 screw won't self tap without violence. Maybe just add some glue on assembly?by StupendousMan - Fisher
Good point about the bowden tube, it does bind a bit while homing even on a standard Fisher. I took a chunk out of the top, and jammed the bed in there.by StupendousMan - Fisher
I did see, and was inspired by, your XT panels. If I remember correctly, the only self tapping sized holes were in the bottom plate, for duet mounting. That is so the screws would stay put, making duet installation easier, I guess? I'll have to check the extruder tensioning arm, actually...by StupendousMan - Fisher
My next Fisher will use metal panels, cut by a local laser shop. That requires small changes: - Originally M3 self tapping holes enlarged to 3mm, use nuts instead - Bed height probing screw holes enlarged to 5mm, to make room for insulating bushings - Added negative bevels to bottom and top plate inside corners, to negate effect of laser firmware that makes tiny radiuses instead of sharp cornersby StupendousMan - Fisher
Here are the contents of fastener set #1321 for Fisher 1, hope it helps. M3 x 25mm cap head screw 25 M3 x 8mm cap head screw 12 M3 x 12 cap head screw 12 M3 x 16 cap head screw 65 M3 nut 25 M3 nyloc nut 16 M3 plain washer 50by StupendousMan - Fisher
I just tried standing on a (failed) pla part. Four line perimeters and honeycomb infill. I'm 230 pounds, and the part is fine. But it definitely could not take a hundred pounds of twisting force. Pulling... Maybe? So the answer is it depends.by StupendousMan - Printing
The fisher auto calibration is great. I finally found the root cause of this, when one of the acrylic rods broke... I already got parts for carbon fiber rods.by StupendousMan - Printing
Made progress on this, with 10 point auto calibration. Still needs fine tuning but already an order of magnitude better.by StupendousMan - Printing
I've been happily printing small parts on a fresh Fisher delta. But now I tried a print with bigger footprint, and noticed the bed leveling is way off. The first layer height is set to 0.35mm, but what I'm getting is 0.5mm on the left and on the right the nozzle drags on the bed. I did a seven point calibration, which helped, but it's still bad. The bed is reasonably flat. Rotating it made no diby StupendousMan - Printing
I too am finding it difficult to get consistent extrusion. Currently I have the extruder resting on a box outside the case, and it seems to help. I have a hunch the problem might be the bowden tube fitting pushing on the filament inside the extruder?by StupendousMan - Fisher
The most common fastener is cap head M3 x 16mm, followed by M3 x 25. I think only one M4, the extruder adjuster? No M2. I'll have the full set again soon, but I'm sure you'll get a full list before then.by StupendousMan - Fisher
There are a few printable versions on thingiverse.by StupendousMan - Fisher
Nice stuff, everyone. All I have is a humble robot, the very first print on a Fisher I finished today. I can't believe how well it came out, with all stock settings and a freezing room. Literally freezing, the Fisher temp reading was 0.3 C.by StupendousMan - Fisher
I want to build a Fisher-type machine, with improvements I've seen here. Carbon rods especially. Does it make any sense, now that original parts are unavailable? What can't I get or make? Hot end?by StupendousMan - Fisher