Different coloured filaments do require different temperatures and some require different feed rates. A good place to start is here:- I've found these settings to be a good 'sanity check' when dealing with different coloured/types of filament. The .ini file is a simple text file and will open in notepad so you can look at them without affecting your slicer settings.by ramblejeff - Fisher
3D printing is full of highs and lows Check the SD Card? you might reload the firmware. eMaker might have some suggestions. There is a steep learning curve but keep going the results are well worth it.by ramblejeff - Fisher
Can't do better than these instructions: dc42 Delta Calibration both are by dc42 who helped develop the Duet and the software on your Fisher so if he doesn't know... If you search the fisher forum for calibration you should find the answers to any questions you have and browsing the reprap.org site will provide loads of info.by ramblejeff - Fisher
That sounds about right. try the same object with support see if it will print. The saggy corner can be caused by a number of things, try rotating the object 45 deg around the vertical axis. It could be a draught or parts of the bed being a different temperatures causing the filament to cool at different speeds. Now you are getting prints off you should calibrate the printer, important is the eby ramblejeff - Fisher
I'm using version S;ic3r 1.2.9 as well that was the version when I started this 3D printing thing. My config bundle contains lots of files, for printer use fisher, I haven't tested fisher 2 yet. The filament settings are for excel fil PLA, they are a good starting point, just select your colour. In the print settings Ignore Fisher2 i haven't tested them. The ones starting with 'quality' are theby ramblejeff - Fisher
What I would do now is open up the G-code file for the failed print delete everything from ;avoid_crossing_perimeters = 0 then copy everything from below ;avoid_crossing_perimeters = 0 in the robot.g file and paste it into the Failed print G-Code. Then try and print. I've attached two files that I have printed on my fisher. maybe you can see where your settings are different. Check the top ofby ramblejeff - Fisher
I think I know whats happening here. The robot is already sliced and the printer settings are embedded in the robot.g file you send to the printer. You can see these settings if you open up the robot.g file in a text editor (NOT Ms Word!) go to the end of the file then scroll up to the line: (or use find) ;avoid_crossing_perimeters = 0 this is the start of the printer settings and continue toby ramblejeff - Fisher
Have you sorted out the micro switches? If you home and calibrate the bed then print the reprap robot everything is fine? If you use a model from slic3r you have problems?by ramblejeff - Fisher
Two things what temperature are you printing at ? Using Sli3r, Filament settings , first layer = 209, other layers = 206. (Good start point for PLA) Print settings: loops (minimum) = 1, Minimum extrusion length = 20mm (if the item is small 40mm is better, ensure that plastic is flowing before printing the object. Did you level the bed before the second print?by ramblejeff - Fisher
Print head not at the correct height: Check the bed mounting brackets aren't cracked, Check the connections to bed probes are tight Pulleys not slipping on the motorsby ramblejeff - Fisher
I agree with DC42 check your micro switches are triggering reliably. Some people had problems with the crimp connections and soldered the micro switch wires. Prints not sticking: 1)Print head not at the correct height: Could be linked to your micro switch problem. Your start point keeps changing. so the print head is not at the correct height. Do more than one bby ramblejeff - Fisher