Quotekevingrumble Could anyone point me to the original STL files for the ormerod 2 hot end? The parts I'm interested in are the printed pieces shown in the attached images. Is there any reason I should upgrade to the newer parts, or are there any alternative parts the community is using? The only advantage I know of about the new parts for the hotend is that the acrylic spacer allows RRP's versby shadow651 - Ormerod
QuoteDarathy i had that issue so u shortened the screw holding the bed. I just cut the screw shorter with a pair of long armed dikes. Didn't feel like taking the screw out and having to re-level the bed. Ian, probably should change this screw to a 20mm long one for future kits......by shadow651 - Ormerod
Quoteezwul Hi I understand the requirements Ian and sympathize. Time versus availability etc, my comments were not meant as critism just help for others, unfortunately as you say thats the state of the CAD industry today. I have tried GrabCad but that was determined to make anything I posted and converted into .STEP freely open and available to others, which without posting the relevant open liby shadow651 - Ormerod
I figured out a way to convert proprietary cad files to something freecad can use (using grabcad workbench, which is now free), typically I use .step. Sadly you lose all of the history of the object in question, only getting the object itself. But it sure beats shelling out a few grand for software. I haven't treid 2015 solidworks files, but I think I've done some 2014 files. You might even beby shadow651 - Ormerod
QuoteDarathy I also Printed this Duct and it does not fit as the old one did. it can bearly hold itself on the acrylic spacer. I guess we must have different versions of the spacer. I wonder what exactly the difference is, I'll also have to check the second hotend I ordered to see if that spacer looks the same as the one I originally got.by shadow651 - Ormerod
The newer vent seemed to work quite well for me, I was now able to print that dragon head successfully. For the most part this vent works quite well, although there was perhaps a very slight amount of warping on the low X side opposite the vent. However, this warping is much less than before. I remember seeing a fan mount that went onto the X arm on the low side, maybe a second fan in parallelby shadow651 - Ormerod
I'd be interested in seeing your setup. I do find the lack of open source laser stuff bizarre. For the most part laser cutters/engravers hardware is a 3D printer without the Z axis and extruder drive, and a laser in place of the nozzle. Since the duet supports this I wonder how much work it would be to have a laser cutter head that could be swapped out for the hot end....by shadow651 - Ormerod
QuoteDarathy thats a really cool dragon ,i will have to make one myself If you do you might have to look at the remix I did of it, the original entry had too many manifold errors to work with slic3r 1.2.6 for me. I ran it through a mesh repair and reposted it as a remix. Quotejohneato Where can I find a dxf/stl of the acrylic fan spacer as used on Ormerod 2 John I assume this is in one of RRPby shadow651 - Ormerod
well, this newer revision of the duct fits much higher up and seems to work fine for me. I'll use in in an actual print later this week to see how well it works. This jointed dragon's head has been giving me a lot of trouble without cooling The OP didn't have anything about mounting the fan to the duct, but I drilled the duct holes out with a 2.5mm bit and M3 screws self tap into it. I think 30by shadow651 - Ormerod
Quotedroftarts The fan duct is here: (I need to add it to the list on the first page of the Ormerod 2 instructions: ) This has been tweaked fairly recently, as the acrylic fan spacer was changed, and the fan duct had to change too. So check you have the latest version. Ian RepRapPro tech support Looks like I have the older version, so that might be part of the problem.... although it looks liby shadow651 - Ormerod
QuoteDarathy i think you just need to push it in a bit ,it should click into place ,just hold the acrylic at the other side ,but dont put too much force so not to break the acrylic. this fan duct helps a lot ,but it is only effective from the side its facing ,would be nice to get a duct to blow from all directions. I think that was part of the problem, but I think the head is drooping in the Yby shadow651 - Ormerod
yea, here's a picture Maybe I don't have it fully on the acrylic piece? But I didn't want to force it too hard with how fragile acrylic can be. I think I'd be able to design some sort of ring duct, if there's room for it, but I'm not sure I'd be able to redesign the attachment to the acrylic spacerby shadow651 - Ormerod
I finally got around to installing this duct and I've been having some issues. The Duct consistently sits about 3mm lower than the nozzle. Wondering if anyone else has had this problem and/or come up with a solution. I might have to go for a different cooling duct design. So I'm open to suggestions about other ducts that are known to work.by shadow651 - Ormerod
In my opinion, and experience, a spool of filament should be all one piece with no interruptions, cuts, breaks etc... I would definitely complain about any spool like the red one you describe. A manufacturer will always wind up with an odd amount left over after making filament. But I believe that extra usually gets cut into small samples, and not sold as a partial.by shadow651 - Ormerod
Quotedroftarts It's also worth trying to connect with Pronterface. Sometimes, Arduino IDE just doesn't see the Duet, but Pronterface does. See: Ian RepRapPro tech support I ran into this when commissioning my printer, I was only able to get the Arduino IDE to communicate sporadically. I wound up using the gcode console in the web interface, but I suppose pronterface would've worked as well.by shadow651 - Ormerod
well, I guess keep trying to reduce the temperature, either till the stringing stops or the extruder starts skipping steps. Maybe the color additives or this brand have a lower Tm.... I'm not sure what else could be causing it. You might be able to find some sort of 2 tower calibration print that changes temperature every so many layers.by shadow651 - Ormerod
Stringing can be caused from your temp being too high as well. And if retraction was a serious issue I'd expect to see lots of ooze problems as well. I too am using 5mm retraction (at 60mm/s speed), so that's likely not your problem, but you could always increase and see if it helps you're likely using different PLA than I am. I'd also check what your 'Minimum travel after retraction is' mine iby shadow651 - Ormerod
I've heard some people say the KISSlicer works ok, I haven't tried it yet though. (I think it's free) There is simplify3D, and I know some ormerod users on here use it, but it costs $100? but I guess it does supports very well, but occasionally goofs up on some stuff. I haven't gotten it because I'm cheep I guess, and I'd like to see a demo version or something to try before I buy. I guess Repby shadow651 - Ormerod
QuoteRadian Amazing isn't it shadow651. Tech stuff becomes a "Legacy item" while you're unboxing it these days Ugg I know the feeling! On the one hand I get why google did it, because the devices basically weren't getting the updates in a timely fashion or at all. Even if the device manufacturers went along with it, every cell provider then had to make a separate agreement for every device witby shadow651 - Ormerod
Google stopped supporting and updating the android web browser last January, and basically told everyone to switch over to chrome. Sadly many older devices (pre 4.0 I think) can't install chrome, so you're just kinda outta luck. And there are now potential security issues with android web, so you should probably find a different browser from the store to use if you can't switch to chrome. This wby shadow651 - Ormerod
I'm surprised that the spool is deforming at your ovens 50C set point when the filament isn't..... All the spools I've received so far are ABS or polycarbonate, which has a much higher Tg than PLA. You could take the filament off the spool I suppose (a real pain). But maybe you could make some kind of simple unwinder or something..... you could possibly roll the filament onto better spools. Howby shadow651 - Ormerod
Quotedc42 Quoteshadow651 DC42, did you ever get a chance try and reproduce my M226/M24 pause resume problem? I haven't had a chance to see if the new 1.09a has this issue or not, but I'll let you know when I get a chance to update the firmware. I'm sorry, I forgot about it. Can you remind me what the problem was? I did take a look at the code, and it appears that the only difference between M2by shadow651 - Ormerod
QuoteVersia Quotedmould You can then open a separate browser window or tab for each printer by typing its IP address into the browser's address bar and control as many printers as you like from one PC. Yes, I know that I can control multiple printers in that way. In fact, I want to print an object with 3~4 parts, and each part can be customized (e.g. the color or the shape). Then I want to make aby shadow651 - Ormerod
Slic3r 1.2.6 also has a preview, you can see a 3D preview of the gcode as well as a layer by layer 'blueprint' of the extruded paths. Very helpful in seeing how supports will print, or catching any issues slic3r might have. The previews have saved me some time, and filament that I would've otherwise wasted on prints with odd glitches or silly mistakes. I'll admit this experimental version has sby shadow651 - Ormerod
Looking at it, I'd agree that it is possibly moisture in the filament. Could possibly be something funky going on at the seams I suppose, a print with seams aligned would be a quick way to check. But lets assume it's moisture for the moment. First the oven: In theory you're oven temp should be lower than the Tg of the filament. For PLA the Tg is '60-65C' on wikipedia --I'm assuming this is PLA bby shadow651 - Ormerod
well, you could backup your current config.g and use the default RRP one from their github. If that one works, then try adding your current config back a line at a time to track down the issue. Kinda a slow painful process, but it should help you find the culprit.by shadow651 - Ormerod
I've been using the DC42 firmware (1.04g at the moment) with my Ormerod 2, and I haven't had any difficulties with circles, granted I have yet to try printing a cylinder or something. But I've printed some gears that seemed to work fine. DC42, did you ever get a chance try and reproduce my M226/M24 pause resume problem? I haven't had a chance to see if the new 1.09a has this issue or not, butby shadow651 - Ormerod
Quotedmould The 4 wire fans have 2 wires for power (12V), 1 wire is a digital input to the fan that sets the fan speed, and 1 wire is a digital output from the fan to report the fan's actual RPM. That latter signal is not required to control the fan's speed. Just connect the fan's power leads directly to + and - 12V, connect its digital input to the Duet's fan PWM output via a diode (cathode toby shadow651 - Ormerod
Quotezombiepantslol Quoteshadow651 on another note: I'm still a bit confused as to why the proposed 4-wire circuit connects the tach wire to the Duets PC4 pin. I thought that the tach wire was an output of the fans speed, and as far as I can tell PC4 is a low PWM output from the processor. Maybe I'm miss reading that as tach, or I'm misunderstanding how the tach wire works. No, it's a digital inby shadow651 - Ormerod
Well, for the moment looks like I might have found a 2 wire fan that is ok with PWM. But I might try prototyping the 4 wire circuit at some point in the future just because. Thanks for the tips on strip boards. Just wondering, does anyone have a ballpark number for how many CFM (Cubic feet per minute) we'd want in an ideal cooling fan? And what is the CFM for the hot end fan? I think the one Iby shadow651 - Ormerod