so could I use 5 points for that then? like: G30 P0 X5 Y10 Z-0 G30 P1 X5 Y195 Z0 G30 P2 X195 Y195 Z0 G30 P3 X195 Y10 Z0 G30 p4 x100 y100 Z0 Sby shadow651 - Ormerod
Is there any way to set the bed comp table manually? atm I'm printing on plain glass and the RRP IR sensor needs the targets, planning on trying out a white coating soon to see if the probe will work on it. If not I might just live with manual bed comp. I'll have to upgrade eventually to DC42's I think. Also, DC42 if I had 2 hotends (0.5mm and 0.3mm) would I need to swap your custom board eacby shadow651 - Ormerod
Ditto to the above! What size fan would this be using?by shadow651 - Ormerod
Well, I've been using your provided home files, so there wasn't any M558 Commands This seems to happen randomly, but not only when homing, the printer can be sitting preheating and I see this as well. It seems to be a rare occurrence, but mainly towards the end of the day if I've been using the printer a lot.by shadow651 - Ormerod
well, I had printed one thing and it worked, and now printing something else and it's not....... both with less than 0.5 initial layers..... I think the absolute extrusion thing might only happen when the printer is set for relative E, but slic3r is set for absolute E (which should technically never happen, and messes stuff up when it does). but it might be something with DC42's firmware and notby shadow651 - Ormerod
Quotedc42 btw it has been reported to me that if you use absolute extrusion instead of relative extrusion, then the estimated end times are less accurate, because the firmware seems to start a new estimate every time a G92 E0 code is encountered (typically on each layer change). Yea I already figured out that one by accident seems that the stock RRP slic3r settings have absolute extrusion on,by shadow651 - Ormerod
The layer height looks good. The first layer time just winds up being the print time - warm up time, since it thinks it's on the first layer the whole time. I'm using DC42 1.04e firmware, so maybe that has something to do with it... I'm also using the new '3D honeycomb' infil, so there might be more move commands in the infill than usual.... Here's a screenshot, the layer thickness is 0.5mm, anby shadow651 - Ormerod
Ok, so I'm still on ZPL's 1.05 web interface when I used a gcode supplied with the firmware (i.e. ormaxis.g) the web interface detects layer changes fine. When I use a file generated with slicer 1.26 (current experimental) it doesn't see layer changes (always thinks it's layer 1 of ....). So I know the issue is with how I'm generating g codes. I assume this is because I missing some flagging lby shadow651 - Ormerod
well, today it seems to be behaving normally...... I'll try to investigate it further if I start seeing this issue again, maybe it only happens after a lot of printing? But I did try restarting the printer when I first had the homing issue, oddby shadow651 - Ormerod
So, I've been having a random issue with the RRP IR Probe on the O2. Occasionally on the web control, I'll see the IR probe report a value in perhaps somewhere in the millions (well beyond the max of 1024), it only occurs for fractions of a second so it's very hard to catch and I suspect it sometimes happens when the web control isn't 'reading' (between pings, if that's the correct term here) fby shadow651 - Ormerod
Macros it is then, not a big deal, I should've thought of that first... I think it might still be nice to have some sort of indicator saying cold extrudes are on or off. but I guess the greyed out filament controls at low temps serves well enough. and you could always go to the console and prompt the duet.by shadow651 - Ormerod
Quotedc42 Quoteshadow651 Ok, so DC42's firmware has cold extrusions on by default. Not any more, I changed it a few versions ago to bring it into line with the RRP 1.04 release. Hmm... ok then. I guess I missed something somewhere.... I thought it was on by default, but maybe I was thinking of an older version, I'll have to go look at my .confg later. Maybe that's the source of the confusion...by shadow651 - Ormerod
Quotedc42 Thanks for pointing that out. I presume you mean the files in /gcodes-Ormerod and /gcodes-MiniKossel, and I have just corrected them. I tend to be a bit lazy with those files, because most users who switch to my firmware fork keep their existing SD card contents. Yea, I probably wouldn't have noticed, except I'm printing ormaxis.g and it never selected the right toolby shadow651 - Ormerod
Ok, so DC42's firmware has cold extrusions on by default. But it seems that I still have to send an enable cold extrusions, for the web interface to allow me to use GUI buttons for the extruder (but I could send G1 E5 and extrude, so I know it's on in the firmware).... Is this supposed to be this way? Shouldn't the web interface check with the printer at connection to see if cold extrusions are oby shadow651 - Ormerod
Found a small bug while commissioning my printer (finally got my replacement duet) All of the g codes for the Omerod in DC42's GitHub use tool 1 not tool 0by shadow651 - Ormerod
Yea, the sd cards don't come with data on them. This confused me while setting up my printer (an O2) for a couple of minutes. But in retrospect, it should have been obvious because the cards come sealed in their original packaging. Maybe I missed something in the directions that said the sd card was blank, not sure. Not a big deal, just have to load the files on from github.by shadow651 - Ormerod
This is totally a first world problem, But I second the notion!by shadow651 - Ormerod
Quotedmould Hmm - I see the Prusa is significantly cheaper than the Ormerod on that site. Apart from the electronics, it seems to be a better printer as far as I can tell. X-axis is supported at both ends, J-head extruder (no Bowden lag), and all-metal frame versions in either steel or aluminium. The plastic parts are moulded rather than printed. You could fit a Duet controller and still endby shadow651 - For Sale
Just saw this on Kickstarter, wondering what you guys think of it. And thought maybe some of you might be interested. Personally, I'm concerned with the weight and shape of this being a bit impractical, and I'm not entirely sure about the effectiveness of the insulation between the heater block and the E3D cooling blocks.by shadow651 - Ormerod
Quotepeter_xm Anyone can do this kind of slicing? See the picture. Why we use uniform slicing only? Is the adaptive slicing a good method? Thank you! Slic3r support this, although you have to set the height and layer thicknesses by hand. see this page on the slic3r manual Keep in mind, that when you talk about changing the slic3r thickness, you're also changing the layer thickness of what youby shadow651 - 3D Design tools
Well, I know one person has replaced theirs with an E3D v6, because I saw their mounting bracket on thingiverse Not sure this is ideal however, I saw a video of the E3D presentation at this years (march 2015) Midwest RepRap festival, and they were saying 'please please please use our cooling duct. It's got a lot of engineering that makes it superior'. So if I went with the V6, I'd probably comeby shadow651 - Ormerod
Quoteohmduke 1) the hot end fan is at maximum speed and it doesn't change, it doesn't respond to the M106 and M107 commands. The hot end fan must always be on (when the hot end is hot). This keeps the plastic filament from melting too high up in the nozzle. If the plastic melts too high up, the pressure needed to extrude will get too high and your printer will jam. The always on natureby shadow651 - Ormerod
I don't know much about how the ardino/duet compiling works. So I probably can't help in that regard. But is there some reason you are trying to compile it yourself, instead of just using a released compiled file? (should be .bin in the release folder of the repository)by shadow651 - Ormerod
Quoteartmer Thanks people, for your advice about a possible shortcut. I completely dissambled the electronics part and yes, there were some solderings of the 5V regulator board still touching the chassie. Luckily, no visible damage. Cut them off, did multimeter resistance check, put all together again, did succesful Duet-Laptop connection via USB (all fine) and finally switched on the PSU ... aby shadow651 - Ormerod
I'd be inclined to think something's wrong with the psu... But I'm by no means an electrical expert. But others on the forum are. But if this is the case, RepRapPro will provide you with a new one I'm sure. Have you tried measuring the voltage being supplied by the psu? Does the duet still seem fine on usb power?by shadow651 - Ormerod
QuoteBenBB Being new to the printing scene I try to follow the help comments in Slic3r, so that is why I disabled it, "it says .....most firmware use absolute values" do I need to set any other settings when M83 is active or does the FW do this automtically *I reverted back to 78c until your code was fixed, I will try new V1.0xxxx again and try the SD card print again...I do find the gear slippinby shadow651 - Ormerod
Quoteormerod168 QuoteBenBB ; extrusion_multiplier = 1.0 That is a rather high extrusion multiplier, I find it to be in the range of 0.8 - 0.9 for the ormerod - do a single wall test, measure the wall against the perimeters extrusion width your slicer noted in the g-file, adjust accordantly ..also you can adjust the setting on the fly withe the M221 command while printing first layer, start aby shadow651 - Ormerod
An interesting idea I had to add to this. If we somehow used slic3r/firmware combination, we could print a raft that would start on the unlevel bed. But by the time it's finished we'd have a level surface to start the print on. In this way, the change wouldn't need to be very gradual, we could make it as extreme as we want because only the raft would get mucked up. Maybe if we had an M commandby shadow651 - Ormerod
Might be helpful if you could post the slic3r comments from the start of a gcode file, it lists all of your slic3r configurations. Also, maybe you could post your entire gcode for the bad tongue print above, someone with a known good printer could try to run that file and see if it works for them (I'd do it, but I'm still waiting on a replacement duet PCB, so I'm not up and running yet)by shadow651 - Ormerod
RepRapPro has the math for steps per axis spelled out here, steps for leadscrew (Z axis) = ( motor steps per revolution * microstepping ) / thread pitch M5 leadscrew = (200 x 16) / 0.8 = 4000 M8 leadscrew = (200 x 16) / 1.25 = 2560 Keep in mind that using a non-metric threaded rod would result in a non-whole number for steps/mm which is probably less than ideal.by shadow651 - Ormerod