Quotedc42 Quote I take it that support would eliminate the need for an intermediate thermocouple PCB, and we'd just plug it into the duet with a new line in the config? Thermocouples need specialised amplifiers to measure the voltage that they generate, so no. However, the MAX31855 boards that I plan to support cost very little and are widely available on eBay. Ok, I see. I guess I'd thoughtby shadow651 - Ormerod
Quotedc42 Thanks Dave, I'll check the hot end temperature. Btw I am considering adding thermocouple support to my firmware fork - would anyone else be interested in using this? I think it'd be nice to have, not sure if I'd use it myself yet. There are some exotic ABS/Polycarb or pure polycarb filaments that need extrusion temperatures higher than thermistors can handle (>260C), plus thermocouby shadow651 - Ormerod
I believe the latest version of zpl web interface allows the defining of tools and heaters under settings: tools. I was in that menu last night redefining the tool numbers.by shadow651 - Ormerod
QuoteIMBoring25 You don't mention what version you're using, but the experimental branch of Slic3r does currently support this. Under Print Settings, then Output Options there's a checkbox for Complete Individual Objects, which will print the objects sequentially, and then the only thing you have to manually modify in the G-code would be to input the temperature-change commands each time Z goesby shadow651 - Slic3r
I don't have a ton of experience, having almost finished getting my Ormerod 2 up and running. But I should be able to get you started troubleshooting till someone with more experience comes along. What firmware is your printer running? When you put the SD card in your computer, do you see these three folders: 'gcodes', 'sys' and 'www'? Inside your sys folder is there a file config.g? Are youby shadow651 - Ormerod
Quotedmould Quotedc42 Buying anything but tiny bottles of acetone from retail stores in the UK is next to impossible now, but acetone can still be bought in reasonable quantities via eBay and other internet or mail order outlets. I guess the difference is that the security services can identify you as the purchaser. You have made me curious, I wasn't aware that acetone was used in the productionby shadow651 - Ormerod
Quotezombiepantslol Yes you're right concerning the password, it must match the one from your config file. You can choose any user name you like, it isn't checked at all (use root or admin, whatever you like). Ok, I was trying the password without a username; that doesn't work, but it isn't checked as long as it's something lol. Thanksby shadow651 - Ormerod
This is kinda a noob question, but what the heck is the default username and password for FTP access? (I assume the password is reprap as set in the config.g, but no idea on the username....) I'm using DC42 1.04a and your previous version of the web interfaceby shadow651 - Ormerod
QuoteDarathy Fans backwash? u mean the intake flow? or something else?(sorry i am a noob) , i use the new ormerod designed hotend like in the attachment. So the Ormerod fan has a habit of causing an air disturbance behind the fan, if you (carefully) put you hand behind the intake for the fan you'll feel that some of breeze is blowing away from the fan, this cools any part of the print that windsby shadow651 - Ormerod
Quotedc42 Finally, I believe the power supply on the Ormerod 2 has a voltage adjustment potentiometer, near the low voltage end of the terminal block. You can turn it up to 13V or even a little higher to increase the heating power. I can confirm that the O2 kit I received has this voltage adjuster on the power supply, it's a small white plastic phillips screw head next to the terminals. It doesnby shadow651 - Ormerod
Just a small request to somewhat dummy proof the macro features in the firmwares/web interfaces. Could we add a macro folder to the SD image, with an example macro file? It took me a little bit to figure out that marco files had to be put in their own folder to show up in ZPL's web interface. It didn't take me very long to figure out (and I probably missed it in some readme somewhere ), but iby shadow651 - Ormerod
So the dust shield needs these additional connections? Interesting.... From my understanding the duex4 expansion didn't need these extra connections.... Are these new connections a fix for the noisy ground thermistor problem on the duex4?by shadow651 - Ormerod
Just out of curiosity, on my O2 kit the 5V regulator board has an extra screw terminal a 3 extra 4 pin connectors...... Any idea what these are for? Here's a pic of my regulator and a reference picture from the installation instructionsby shadow651 - Ormerod
Hi all, Just wondering if there is a easy way to print replicates of an object with different settings for optimization experiments. Say I have a small cube, and I want to print it at 190C 200C 210C 220C or whatever to figure out optimal print temp for a filament. Currently, I think I'd have to generate a G-code that prints 4 of these cubes in sequence, and then manually go into slic3r and addby shadow651 - Slic3r
Quotetstone You can use modifiers to change some settings with so called modifier meshes in the experimental version. Tim Weren't modifier meshes more designed for changing slic3r behavior within a single .STL? Like making some part of an object solid? Not sure how one would go about only applying a mesh to sequential replicates of an object..... because any mesh you try to do would be appliedby shadow651 - Ormerod
*Sneeks over to printer and flips nozzle mount over before anyone notices*by shadow651 - Ormerod
Well, I certainly didn't mean to start a flame war over QC practices last night.... I can see both sides of the issue. On the one hand, it's very easy for us the consumer to sit around and point at a company and say 'well, I wouldn't do it that way' or 'you should've known better' or whatever. But at the same time, we want all of these goods at a prices that's as low as possible. Sadly we can'by shadow651 - Ormerod
Quotedc42 I can't confirm that they are swapped as I have an Ormerod 1. But if you are certain, you can easily swap them. Press a small point into the rectangular hole on the front of the connector to disengage the barb, then you can pull on the wire to remove the pin. Swapping green and yellow wires worked, the duet is now reporting probe values as expected! For the record the correct order fby shadow651 - Ormerod
Looks like the wires are reversed on the z end of the probe loom, green and yellow like I thought. Not sure if there is a way to get the wires out of the connector to fix it myself. Looking at the duet for the stepper issue, looks like some solder is shorting out the X stepper driver (U5)by shadow651 - Ormerod
I'll post pictures when I get home tonight (~ +8 hrs from now), but I think I just realized that Yellow (gnd) and Green (+3.3v) might be reversed on the Z probe end of the loom compared to the picture in the install guide. I know I've triple checked that the duet side wires colors are going to the right pins, and that it's wired up according to the diagram, but I'll post a picture regardless,by shadow651 - Ormerod
QuoteDavek0974 Interesting but the PLA comes shipped with a bag of silica gel in the wrapper - surely that would make it worse?? I've got stuff from three suppliers and they all do it If moisture gets absorbed by the filament it'll vaporize in the extruder, which will totally muck up the print (this is a big issue with nylon, I've read about people having to dry nylon in an oven before extrusby shadow651 - Ormerod
Ok, so I’ve gone through the troubleshooting for the z-probe I checked the cable and all the correct wires are connected at each end with no crossover. Voltage between yellow and green pins 3.28 Volts Shorting Red pin to ground, duet gives 0 (0) for probe reading Jumper between red pin and blue pin, duet gives 1024 (1024) for probe reading Measurements with probe plugged in with black lead on gby shadow651 - Ormerod
I think you'd have to get a little dirty with the gcode files, and copy and paste each gcode one after another into a single file (making sure your stop code for the intermediate cubes doesn't have any M0 that will shutdown the printer) You might also want some code in between them, if for instance your changing temperatures between cubes you don't want the head to sit above a finished cube whilby shadow651 - Ormerod
Quotestuart576 With the Z-probe I would perform some continuity checks first as well. I didn't really look too much into the Z probe issue, mainly because I'm not sure what 0 (1023) is indicative of.... I think that the second number is the probes 'off' reading, and the first number is the Delta-IR with modulation, so the 'true' IR reading compensating for background..... So, am I correct thinkiby shadow651 - Ormerod
Zombiepantslol, I was commissioning my printer yesterday (albeit unsuccessfully, due to a bad X stepper driver I think...), and put DC42 1.00O and your 1.03 web interface onto the printer. I decided to be proactive and change the tool number to #0 in config.g since that's what RRP is going to be doing soon anyways, and I didn't want to have the issue of some gcodes using tool 1 and some tool 0.by shadow651 - Ormerod
So, I've finally gotten my printer assembled, and on commissioning the X axis wouldn't work. (heated bed, hotend, Z and Y all worked fine) I tried reversing the Z and X cables, and the X motor ran fine off the Z pins, and then the Z motor didn't off of the X pins. I checked the X wiring loom with a multimeter and it looks fine, there's no crossover in the cable either. I'm running DC42 1.00 Oby shadow651 - Ormerod
QuoteDodger Thanks again - that seems to have done it. The question now is where did the strange number come from? Would I be advised to delete and reinstall the firmwhere? Dodger The only place that should be is in your config.g file, under the M556 command. Your X, Y, and Z values probably aren't 0. Here's how that line appears in the RRP github config: QuoteM556 S78 X0 Y0 Z0by shadow651 - Ormerod
Quotedmould I wonder whether you could hold the heater in with some sort of fixative? I'm thinking of something like plaster of paris or a wall plaster repair substance such as pollyfilla, or even ordinary building cement (which seems to last OK in a brick fireplace). Dave I'd be concerned that anything like that might be fairly non-conductive and interfere with heat transfer to the heating blby shadow651 - Ormerod
Quotedmould It is easiest to set a first layer height a bit thicker when printing layers as thin as 0.15mm. For layer heights below 0.25mm I usually set the first layer to double layer height - it makes an insignificant difference to the print (if anything it improves the appearance of the base). The effects of small bed height differences are greatly diminished in layer 2 and pretty much goneby shadow651 - Ormerod
You might also want to take a look at this thread. I guess RRP firmware did use T1, but has now or will soon change over to T0 for the first extruder.... I'm still not sure what DC42's uses, but I'd imagine it'll change to T0 soon if it's not already. You might have gotten some combination of files/firmware from either side of the changeoverby shadow651 - Ormerod