well duHuuuh, if i don't push the sandwich200v1 at insane speeds, the prints come out reeally well, surpriiiise! this is an experiment (right and centre) to do a rotating z-nut idea based on a sphere. there's a concave spherical indentation in which the actual nut-holder can rotate. the "beetle" part has two protrusions that fit into a slot, which stops it from rotating when the threaded barby lkcl - CoreXY Machines
Quotedeckingman Maybe I didn't explain myself well. The bracing doesn't need to be pre-tensioned. You build a rectangular frame - say one of the sides, fixing the corners by whatever means you choose, and make sure it's square. Then you cut 2 flat strips the length of the diagonal, drill a hole in each end and bolt them to the side of the frame at the corners. You'd maybe need to space one of theby lkcl - CoreXY Machines
Quotedeckingman Whereas with a CoreXY design, the Bowden tube(s) would only have to be long enough to accommodate movement in the XY plane. At least, that was my reasoning but I bow to anyone's superior knowledge. correct. jason (the designer of the Flex3Drive) pointed something out that i really appreciated learning about: that if you were to arrange the stepper motor directly over and in theby lkcl - CoreXY Machines
Quotedeckingman All good stuff. That's very encouraging and thanks for the links. Although I build garden decks for a living these days, this is career number 5 (or 6 or 7 - I've changed tack so many times I've kind of lost count). However, when I first started work in 1969, it was as an apprentice tool maker and I spent about 30 years as an automotive engineer in one form or another. Althoughby lkcl - CoreXY Machines
Quotedeckingman That's looking good. yeah, agreed. simple, straightforward, love the blue, and love the large section aluminium. using delrin runners for the z bed is a great idea, too. i'm using 15x15 and it's possible to bend a 1m section by hand. i'll go with 20x20 for a future revision, for sure. Quote It'd just mean longer uprights and lead screws as well as longer and thicker Z guidesby lkcl - CoreXY Machines
Quoterealthor How hard should a bolt be fastened to connect two square alu tubes together? really, you should be testing it, by buying two bars in the next day or so and trying it out. get two bars, drill holes 10mm front the ends, bolt them together in parallel then prise them apart with your hands. if they bend or they separate even by a couple of millimetres with a mild amount of force, yoby lkcl - CoreXY Machines
here's the v2 starting to take shape, the outer dimensions when assembled are looking set to be 310 x 415 x 400mm, with the "stowed" size being 415x357x155mm (plus outer box material thickness x2). noticeable changes in the z assembly: 12mm vertical rods, LM8LUU quad bearings, and the outer extrusion parts are reduced to one single piece of extrusion along the bottom, on which the PSU, NEMA17,by lkcl - CoreXY Machines
Quoterealthor OK, your concerns are valid with different builds. So, to stop linking other designs and make room for deviating the discussion, here's the Sketchfab link to my printer STL: niiiice. oo, triple linear z-rails and dual z-threaded rods, niice. oh. left and right z-rails: you'll get seesaw effects on those, around the back z-rod. push one side down, the other will go up. takeby lkcl - CoreXY Machines
Quoterealthor Quotelkcl don't use steel for the inside spacer: when in direct contact, steel and aluminium react, and the aluminium oxidises within about 18 months - it basically crumbles and turns to dust. people who make and maintain aluminium body cars find this out when things start to drop off the car... Aren't bolts and washers Steel too? I don't suppose you're connecting extrusions togeby lkcl - CoreXY Machines
Quoterealthor On the other hand I have just noticed that an M10 Nut is 16mm between flats ... so a printed part with an M10 Nut space ....interesting. oo. duh. yes. sorry, didn't realise the significance of this earlier - yes, that would work great.by lkcl - CoreXY Machines
Quotecozmicray If your going to tighten the bolts that much may have to use titanium, inconel Will you be using NASCAR 3000psi air gun to tighten? pair of pliers, man, come on! didn't you work out by now that i'm a cowboy engineer?? Quote I challenge you to crush a well printed block with a bolt and a standard allen wrench i do it all the time by accidentally overtightening both M3 and M5 bby lkcl - CoreXY Machines
Quoterealthor Quotelkcl let me be absolutely clear: the statement that you have made is 100% wrong. if you do not believe me, and cannot work it out in your mind that the tension in the belts will vary as the carriage goes back and forth if the belts are not directly aligned and at 90 degrees when coming out of the x-ends, then you will find out *why* this matters so much when it comes to actualby lkcl - CoreXY Machines
Quoterealthor If I understand correctly you are suggesting an aluminum bar (I suppose flat if you are specifying 16x16, square actually by those dimensions). Is such a thing you have at your HW store? I don't remember seeing such thing but will double check. whatever ID square-section aluminium tube you pick, it needs to match whatever square OD bar you can also easily get . otherwise as cozmicrby lkcl - CoreXY Machines
Quotesmartfriendz are you sure the perpendicular problem is more with an HBOT system ? I tought it was not so important with a coreXY. Well, from our tests, we didn't noticed any problems with non perpendicular lines on coreXY . it's absolutely critical. Wurstnase is absolutely right. what you can do to test that it is, indeed, absolutely critical, is to print nine square parts in the top leby lkcl - Smart_Rap
Quotecozmicray Print a block leaving hex hole to insert hex nut -- no tapping not strong enough. it'll crush and crack as and when pressure is exerted on it from the outside as the bolts are tightened. Quote Not going to get 0.1 tolerance with a hand drill, hacksaw and stuff from the Dollar General yehh but the cuts are not going to be in the critical dimension. if you get an aluminium barby lkcl - CoreXY Machines
Quoterealthor Yes, a bit harder, but I like that . It also gives the possibility to overcome many build errors, which I believe a DIYer with a hacksaw and a cordless drill will make. Not everybody will have factory cut aluminum extrusions and maybe they are not absolutely needed in all situations... but hey, if they are cheap enough people will not complicate their lives with ALU tubes anyway. Rby lkcl - CoreXY Machines
Quoterealthor 1) My setup is just like Smartrapcore regarding the belts lines. Only the side of the motor belt that goes to the Y Carriage and the side of the belt that goes from the idler to the Ycarriage need to be dead straight. The other side, the outer long belt doesn't need to be parallel with anything. It only needs to not catch on itself when the Y carriage approaches the idler. I am pretby lkcl - CoreXY Machines
Quoterealthor Yes, you start to make some sense now ... joking, I understand a bit more from this second explanation. whew. Quote I got it now what you meant by a solid bar of the right diameter inside the square tube, preferably having the bolts go through it so that the whole thing is like a solid piece in that section. But I wonder if I can get anywhere the exact dimensions of a solid bar (sby lkcl - CoreXY Machines
Quotethe_digital_dentist I looked at the specs on that heater- on the good side it has holes to allow 3 point leveling. On the bad side it looks like it only dissipates about 100 W. The description says it's flat enough to print on directly, without adding a glass plate, but unless it's quite thick and preferably cast aluminum, I have doubts about that. If you put glass on top of it, it may neby lkcl - CoreXY Machines
Quoterealthor If one wants to stop crushing the tube while fastening the bolt any assortment of nuts and washers that you can get inside to fill the whole gap can be attempted. I just don't think one will ever get to the "perfect" inside wall-to-wall distance. But consider this: first you don't tighten the bolts too much, just enough to assemble the frame and make it square. Then you will have 3by lkcl - CoreXY Machines
Quoterealthor I find it very difficult to add a tensioning system elsewhere in the corexy path. I don't have pockets/slots in the motor mounts that would allow adjusting tension. I have designed slots for lateral adjustment so I ensure square belts for the corexy setup. Adding perpendicular slots to those is close to impossible. So I have finally decided to add it straight to the X carriage. Oby lkcl - CoreXY Machines
QuoteAx Quotelkcl QuoteAx Quick heads up, if you're interested, I've got a stream up of the FB2020 in action, can be seen at looked at it a couple days ago ax, it looks really good. is it stable? on the sandwich200v1 the bed can be seen to be pushed around quite a bit if the filament ends up getting higher than it should (over-extrusion at the corners being the usual culprit). oh btw alfa-teby lkcl - CoreXY Machines
ok so i've started the revision 2, using a flex3drive, and, you can see above the first three parts. they're done with a 0.6mm E3Dv6 volcano nozzle which i'm currently experimenting with , to see how it does. with this nozzle, print times for 1.5 metres of PLA is around 20 minutes - the flow rate reported by cura is an enormous 24 to 35mm3/sec. here's a 3d render from the CAD: the externalby lkcl - CoreXY Machines
Quotecozmicray Grasshoppaa "What stepping is selected on stepper drivers? Are they all the same?" 1/16th and yes Quote Are the driver jumpers (under drivers full step, half step, 1/4 step, 1/8 step,1/16 step,1/32 step) set the same maybe try another step setting *sigh* yeees, bugbear about the duet, you can't software-select the driver microstepping easily, you actually have to cut tracks tby lkcl - CoreXY Machines
QuoteAx Quick heads up, if you're interested, I've got a stream up of the FB2020 in action, can be seen at looked at it a couple days ago ax, it looks really good. is it stable? on the sandwich200v1 the bed can be seen to be pushed around quite a bit if the filament ends up getting higher than it should (over-extrusion at the corners being the usual culprit). oh btw alfa-tech3d.com started sby lkcl - CoreXY Machines
i've just done a write-up on a way to install the thermistor in the E3Dv6 hotend, which is much less hassle and reduces risk of damage to the (very thin) thermistor wires: if anyone is interested it's here:by lkcl - Reprappers
Quotelkcl Quotecozmicray Mechanical excellent grasshopper Pure X and pure Y prints should be done and examined a single piece with square corners printed straight on x and y showed 0.5mm warbling on both sides. Quote Diagonal print may also show something that's a good idea. will try that. that's iiinteresting.... ok, the diagonally-done print still shows minor warbling - i'm now using aby lkcl - CoreXY Machines
Quotecozmicray Mechanical excellent grasshopper ahh glasshoppaa... Quote Hicups in X , Y or both? both. Quote Pure X and pure Y prints should be done and examined a single piece with square corners printed straight on x and y showed 0.5mm warbling on both sides. Quote Diagonal print may also show something that's a good idea. will try that. Quote Difficult to separate X , Y axis issuesby lkcl - CoreXY Machines
Quotethe_digital_dentist I just noticed in a previous post that you're using 6 mm bearings and guide rails. yeahh i upped them to 8mm. Quote Will a few extra mm in printer size really matter so much? no not compared to print quality. Quote Off the shelf bed heaters are typically 200 mm square. Do you need the extra 14 mm in the bed? the standard reprap printbed, as well as the Alu MK3 (by lkcl - CoreXY Machines
Quoterealthor Hi guysI have a bit of a dilemma here: in a corexy setup, do I have to make sure belts have the same tension on both sides? ohhhh yes. most definitely. if the belts are tensioned differently they will have different characteristics and different effects, which will cause minor odd variations resulting in odd and unpredictable patterns, head movement... yeah. definitely. Quote Asby lkcl - CoreXY Machines