Quoterealthor Mann, this thread has been quite "dead" in interaction apart from my insisting updates for something that nobody seemed to be interested in any more hehe...it's good to see someone reviving the spirits a bit. 1) I will try square tubing first because I can't find extrusions in my area and I'd have to order from abroad (Germany most likely) which is not cheap. Moreover, I find thby lkcl - CoreXY Machines
oh, oh, before i forget, realthor, have a look in the fusebox forum. we've just been discussing methods of getting strong-enough z-upright supports, there's something called the "G&C" printer which uses aluminium L-bracket, we also had some people say that using M10 or M12 rods and quad LM10UU / LM12UU bearings (2 per side) is... a good idea, shall we say. link... link... where are ya....by lkcl - CoreXY Machines
Quoterealthor @lkcl: Regarding the angles, I am using a "scout-tower"-like node configuration so I corner brackets will be difficult to adapt. They are basically intended for extrusions that connect head-on-head at the nodes. I am using this style of node: oooo intriguing. ok well then Edvardas recommended another possible technique you might like, if you have a drill, basically you put a hoby lkcl - CoreXY Machines
Quotedc42 QuoteLarsK ... Finally - Ramps + Arduino just works... It is one less unknown for your build because you can be 99% sure that whatever problem you encounter, someone else will have experienced it before... I think it is more accurate to say that a good quality Ramps + Arduino + LCD (needed for the SD card) just works, provided you don't attach a graphical LCD or a servo (either of whicby lkcl - CoreXY Machines
QuoteLarsK the one on the left is crap. total crap. i made a serious mistake in buying some of those. you are welcome to have them, i will never, ever use them. they are a total waste of your effort to even bother to put them in: you will waste 4 screws and simply increase the weight. basically, they bend about the right-angle point so provide absolutely no right-angle rigidity; they slidby lkcl - CoreXY Machines
Quotedavedavedave Heya. I ended up finding the out the problems to my issue about 2 days ago. The reason it was going slow is because I was using pronterface and the federate was about 100mm per MIN which is really slow. I have Dust(another forum member) to thank for that little tip. so that pretty much fixed the problem. yay! Quotenow I just have to make sure the machine is moving the exact nby lkcl - CoreXY Machines
cozmicray, your post is informative and funny, and your apology and... and... how to put it... view of my "random excursions into unknown 3d printing territory with cheerful complete abandon and recklessness" as being "design excellence" is as funny as it is appreciated. Quotecozmicray Well the truth be told The diagram in the initial post is ONLY one half (or one level) of a coreXY belt arrangby lkcl - CoreXY Machines
Quotethe_digital_dentist Quotelkcl i was aiming to get down to only 36mm (or so) on each edge of a 214mm printbed, for a total width of 280mm. i've not managed that - i have however got it down to 305mm total width. i honestly don't feel that linear rails would help achieve that kind of design goal: they're off-the-shelf parts that i'd not be able to alter. I don't understand - what does vertiby lkcl - CoreXY Machines
Quotecozmicray It is not a good idea to think your going to 300mm of printing travel out of a 300mm guide rail i made, earlier, the following statement: Quotelkcl i was aiming to get down to only 36mm (or so) on each edge of a 214mm printbed, for a total width of 280mm. so if you can read "214mm printbed" and "total width of 280mm" and conclude that "300mm of travel is necessary" and "the rodsby lkcl - CoreXY Machines
QuoteFA-MAS How about this? Keeps the motor inboard, puts the teeth on the outside of the idlers, no twist in the belt, requires one less idler. nope - that's not a corexy design of belt arrangement. corexy, the key is to go from one corner "down-across-down" and end up diagonal in the opposite corner you do that from the opposite corner as well and you have the +/- effect. the belt arrangemby lkcl - CoreXY Machines
the "volcano" set arrived with the new 0.4mm nozzle, this was the first print. compared to previous results, i'm really happy with it, warts an all.by lkcl - Duet
Quotelkcl QuoteEdvardas They have developed 0.4mm recently oo! oo! i want one! ok that does it, i'm going to get a volcano adapter set. arrived today, very excited - first print which was at 350mm/sec came out like this: now, i'm really *really* excited because it's such a vast improvement over the default E3Dv6 heat chamber when running at that speed. clearly, the filament is actuallyby lkcl - CoreXY Machines
Quotegforce1 I would replace the idler for a GT2-pulley. In my design i have the motor in the corner, so i don't need the (2) extra pulleys. I have also twisted the belts in the same place. great - so i'm not the only one Quote I can slide the motors back- and forwards for tensioning the belts. okay that's quite nice. i've altered the carriage so it's easy to unclip the belt and move it alby lkcl - CoreXY Machines
QuoteDalius98 I am using toothed idler pulleys (6mm GT2). At first I made my own from miniature flanged bearings and 8mm bore pulleys, but there's a better solution - Aliexpress or ebay. Just search for GT2 idler pulley, and there will be some with teeth aawesome ooo, 18x9mm dimensions, hmm... i'm pushing my luck on space (the final frontierrrr...) - with the rev2 sandwich200 i'm planning, iby lkcl - CoreXY Machines
Quotecozmicray Belts on a CoreXY are NOT structural tensioning devices! you may have misunderstood. ok, let's say that the x-assembly is allowed to rotate freely at each end that it is attached to each left and right y-rod, so it can be come a Z rather than an H (let's ignore the fact that if the H became a Z the x-assembly would fall off the y-rails because it would be too short - let's ignorby lkcl - CoreXY Machines
Quotethe_digital_dentist by using a linear guide instead of the 1/2" rails I started with i was aiming to get down to only 36mm (or so) on each edge of a 214mm printbed, for a total width of 280mm. i've not managed that - i have however got it down to 305mm total width. i honestly don't feel that linear rails would help achieve that kind of design goal: they're off-the-shelf parts that i'd noby lkcl - CoreXY Machines
Quoteivo95 filipe solution is the best: G&C Printer, you can probably sit on that bed , so i will do it like him. 12mm rods, 4xSCV12UU bolted to 20x60 profile good find - looks monstrousby lkcl - CoreXY Machines
Quotedavedavedave EDIT: Ok finally got my printer moving smoothly. before it was all weird and janked up. but after messing with numbers on the marlin I got moving how I wanted it. now this is what I might need some advice on. so far it homes properly on the XY axes although it hits X endstop then travels about 40mm opposite of the wall it hit and then goes back and hits it again and finally stoby lkcl - CoreXY Machines
Quotedc42 @lkcl, thanks for your report. Can you share a photo of your machine? Contrary to popular belief, reducing microstepping does not increase motor torque. The torque per unit of angular error remains the same. The only valid reasons I know of for reducing microstepping are to cater for slow electronics that can't generate the steps fast enough, and possibly to shift the vibration frequenby lkcl - Duet
Quotechrishamm Quotelkcl the only thing i have to resolve is, the extruder whipped out 250mm of filament at the end of the print, which is all rather odd. there's a relative "extruder retract" command in the end.gcode of the cura config that i'm using - it says "E-1" but what actually happened was "E-250" or so, which tells me that, possibly, the G91 command just before it isn't being listened tby lkcl - Duet
Quoteappjaws1 I have just ordered and am printing parts for a coreXY machine. I would like to use my spare duet v6 and duex4 to run the machine. I need advise on setting a config file? i've just swapped over to a duet 0.8.5 and spent a day or so configuring it, i described the process here and include a link to the configuration that i came up with. yesterday i added comments to the config so yby lkcl - CoreXY Machines
i'm building a folding, portable corexy printer, called the Sandwich200 this is my first design, and it's based around the Fusebox . both printers have an "offset" layout which means that the belts miss each other and there are no "crossover" issues. however, something had not occurred to me until i looked very very closely at one of the prints, and i am seeing tiny, tiny jolting marks at veryby lkcl - CoreXY Machines
QuoteEdvardas Looks like you have got a so called Z-banding issue. It is caused by an M8 threaded rod that is not straight. Pitch on M8 rod is 1.25mm and it looks like the repeating banding happens at this distance which proves it all. edvardas, FA-MAS, are you referring to the differences in the layers, that at regular intervals i have layers slightly offset from the others? if so, i can say "by lkcl - CoreXY Machines
Quoteivo95 Something like this: oh, oh, another way you could do this, without needing to cut (large) aluminium L-brackets, is, use these right-angle corner-braces in combination with 2 upright 75mm (or so) extrusions, and a long horizontal extrusion to make an H, you could create a simple, small z-nut holder which would mount a z-nut close to the horizontal extrusion, and then create mountingby lkcl - CoreXY Machines
QuoteAx Thingiverse updated. Bed images uploaded.. pppink - niiice! i'm a fan of bright colours too ok so a long cross-piece to keep the cable out the way... what else is that for? if you have dual cross-bar (front and back it looks like) the plastic cross-piece shouuuldn't be needed.... instead of the corner-plastic pieces, have you thought to use the trick of drilling from the outside thenby lkcl - CoreXY Machines
QuoteAx I'm planning on updating things on the Thingiverse page in a bit, once I have the RRD controller fixed properly. You can actually knock 15mm off the main legs of the bed with the 3 point system as they don't need to be as long, which may cause a little extra expense, due to them being shorter, but the pay off is that it's really simple to level. yyeah, it's funny, isn't it - first timeby lkcl - CoreXY Machines
QuoteAx I was talking about the bed. I've actually just converted it to 3 point levelling, with an extra plastic brace in the middle. This has made the bed a lot more rigid, so it doesn't see-saw from the main bed legs and so much more easy to level compared to a 4 point bed. cool - that would be good to see, can you take some pictures?by lkcl - CoreXY Machines
QuoteAx To clear things up with the FB2020. I've actually substituted out the plastic brace for another cross bar photos would help, but i can tell you, right now, you're never *ever* going to get a stiff frame until you've braced *all five* frame faces (i filled them all in with hardboard, mounted on 16 points *per board*) and put original Misumi1515 brackets in the top corners or used those 50by lkcl - CoreXY Machines
i've just upgraded to a duet 0.8.5 because i was running into a lot of issues with the rumba v1.2g (thermistor voltage-divider bridge circuit wrong offsets, freezing axes randomly at only 0.8A limits). whilst the speed limits are currently set to 250mm/sec but the printer is definitely, definitely doing a lot less than that, the quality comes out really well. it's kinda cute to be running at soby lkcl - CoreXY Machines