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http://reprap.org/wiki/RUG/New_Zealand Discussions on suppliers, meetups, and how to keep Keas from eating your extruder heads.
Re: Prusa i3 Frame in NZ? - 10 years ago
I can't remember the final figure as we had a group who put together a number of things to use up an entire sheet of aluminium. It was cheaper to get water jet cut for just a single frame and was only economic for the laser when we put a number of things together to fill a sheet.by oatridge - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Re: NZ - CoreXY Openbeam Build - 10 years ago
Really nice tidy build. I especially like the way you have included the power supply and filament reel within the frame.by oatridge - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Re: Prusa I3 BOM Help - 10 years ago
Quite true Dust, a solid base that does not twist is necessary. I use the Helios PCB beds which are extremely solid. a heated aluminium plate may also work. i have yet to try that. its something I intend to expeiment with soon as the the Helios PCBs are only available in 200x200.by oatridge - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Re: Prusa I3 BOM Help - 10 years ago
May be worth a visit to the $2 shop. The ones that are local to me have a variety of cheap photo frames with glass that is pretty close to the size we need. i bought a cheap glass cutter and had a go at scoring and cutting. it wasn't that hard once you get over the initial shattering of glass possibility fear. I've done about a dozen now, a couple of wiggly cuts but I found that a nice even scoreby oatridge - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Re: Clogged Nozzle Problems - 10 years ago
Interestingly I have done a number of experiments with differing brands of PLA. I have found that of the the four brands I've tried only Diamondage's always works. I've tried a lot of different configurations and have managed to get reasonable results with one or two other brands, however I still get hotend jams every now and again. I've spoken with Vic of Diamondage and the problem with 1.75mm fby oatridge - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Re: Prusa I3 BOM Help - 10 years ago
My experience of mounting the resistor in the hotend is to use holts firegum. I've done six different hotends with this and not had any issues. I have read that the thermal paste can dry out and crack letting the resistor overheat and burn out. The better the resistor fits the better everything will be. Resistors vary a little in diameter nad it might be worth finding one that is a tight fit. Iby oatridge - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Re: Experience Prusa i3 - 10 years ago
A group of us in Auckland built a number of I3 Prusa from scratch. it's not that hard. We have one laser cut I3 frame and Y table left over from the group build. You could have it for $85, I was about to put it on trademe for a bit more. There are a numeber of other bits left over from a bulk buy as well. Most everything you need is available locally or from Ebay and the build is quite easy. Oncby oatridge - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Re: Cost of Rep Rap build.. - 10 years ago
Anyonw looked at (or ordered) any of the cheaper printers i.e. makibox (about $320) or pirate buchaneer (about $650)? Both look very good value if they exist.by oatridge - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Re: I3 parts needed - 11 years ago
Hi josh, i could probably print those parts, but I won't be back home and by the printer till Jan 6th. I have a hobbed bolt for nick as well that goes in the same category (if you havn't goty one yet Nick). I built an I3 with the 10mm varaiant, studier and possible to make slightly larger in the y direction if you feel inclined. There are a number of varaiants of the Y axis ends (corners). The oby oatridge - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Re: Prusa I3 BOM Help - 11 years ago
Check out surplustronics.co.nz They have been around along time, do alot of mail order on line etc and supply schools so have a reputation to protect. I often buy stuff there. I see thay have a good range of cable.by oatridge - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Re: Anyone in the Nelson area? - 11 years ago
Well no photos yet, but I should be able to put something together shortly. We seem to be going down the same philosophical road but in different directions. I will end up with at least 300x300x300 build, possibly a bit more. I am using open build extrusion as the runners so interested to see how linear this works out. So far it is very smooth. I am using belts for X and Y but with the intentionby oatridge - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Re: Anyone in the Nelson area? - 11 years ago
Hi Wired1 good to see you back in action and not sitting idle. I am embarking on a similar project, I have the basic frame built. I've used misumi type extrusion but ex China. Good quality but the center hole is for 6mm rather than 5mm screws. It does make corner joins more solid but other thins are a little difficult. I may have some bits of interest. I have also use open build V slot extrusionby oatridge - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Re: Prusa I3 BOM Help - 11 years ago
buyincoins seem to have very good value stepper drivers as well. Thanks for the tipDust.by oatridge - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Re: Prusa I3 BOM Help - 11 years ago
Good buying so far, keep it up and you will have a great value printer. Plus you always know where to get spares.I've got quite a bit of stuff through Aliexpress and haven't been dissaopointed, just watch the postage, free is good!by oatridge - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Re: Reprap for high school science/technology department? - 11 years ago
Might be worth looking at Mindkits Diamondmind printer. I comes with some pretty impressive credentials, is New Zealand made and there will be excellent support. I've no connection but Vik has a long history with 3d printing.by oatridge - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Re: OB1.4 Printer - 11 years ago
Very smart looking buid. I must admit I'm very tempted to do one . I've printed some of the plastic just to get a feel for it. All looks great.by oatridge - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Re: Printing size on i3 ?? - 11 years ago
My I3 does 180 by 190 and I'm not sure about the height as it's only just got going. Probably a similar number. I guess you are most interested in the glass size though.by oatridge - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Re: Prusa I3 BOM Help - 11 years ago
Heated bed interesting point. Just looked at my three working printers. Two with PCB tracks up and one down. The down is slower to heat! I think up should be best. I have stuck some fibreglass insulation directly under the heated bed as well. This seems to speed things up and I notice the heater cycles less. All my printers use 4 point. I call one edge the datum and set and lock it. Then I workby oatridge - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Re: Prusa I3 BOM Help - 11 years ago
Mental note: buy gas torch for assemby :-). One thing Bunnings does have and at a cheap price, is a good range of springs. I picked up a couple of packets of C-562 springs which are perfect for attaching the heated plate to the Y bed.by oatridge - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Re: Prusa I3 BOM Help - 11 years ago
Another thought. I have found that the 3mm nuts sold by Jaycar are larger than standard and don't fit. Maybe try another supplier. My local hardware (Hammer hardware) was spot on exact.by oatridge - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Re: Prusa I3 BOM Help - 11 years ago
Great reply from theRevva. The cute idler y belt tensioner is . It's a good idea to just get going with your build. it is inevitable that you will end up with a few things you don't need and you are bound to miss something that you do. Sourcing it yourself is IMHO hugely more satisfying and will teach you more. It also opens you up to all the variants. It is almost inevitable you will find someby oatridge - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Re: Prusa I3 BOM Help - 11 years ago
Hi Zerker, I think your 8mm nut count is too high in the second list. There were two (at least) variants of the I3. One used 10mm threaded rod on the y axis and the other used 8mm. 10mm obviously gives you a stonger machine. You still used 8mm threaded rod for the shorter x axis rods on both variants.by oatridge - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Re: Preferred brand of 'printer adhesive'? (also, hi everyone) - 11 years ago
I agree with Lenbok. I print straight on to glass. I have also use Kapton tape which works well, both of these for PLA. Some people I know use dilute PVA with PLA and hairspray with ABS with good results. You could try making your heated bed a litlle warmer tha can help ( a little is 5 degrees).by oatridge - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Printing problem - 11 years ago
I know it's a pretty generic title but here's the problem.The print starts then almost immediately the printer adds .19mm to the Z height. this causes obvious problems. I have two almost identical printers . One does this, the does not. I figure that elinminates something odd in the G code at I think so I admit to not have read it yet. G code was generated with Cura and slic3r and there is no diby oatridge - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Re: Preferred brand of 'printer adhesive'? (also, hi everyone) - 11 years ago
I'm guessing you are printing with ABS??? Nothing wrong with the brand and hopefully it doesn't smell too much.by oatridge - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Re: Ramps power question - 11 years ago
I agree with Waitaki, it shouldn't matter. Having said that I found it did with one printer. USB first then power to ramps. (otherwise the pC would not connect). However I later found that the problem was an earthing one on the power supply and once that was sorted the order problem went away.by oatridge - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Re: Auckland 3D Printing Meetup - 11 years ago
And to Revva look at for 6.35mm acme. Yes i know its werid imperial.by oatridge - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Re: Auckland 3D Printing Meetup - 11 years ago
Likewise to the previous meassage, thanks Mike, a good meetup and great to see people in Auckland in the reprap community. I think at least one person felt comfortable with proceding towards making their own machine. I certainly learnt something.by oatridge - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Re: Anyone in the Manawatu area? - 11 years ago
Shipping and gst will hit you a bit on this one. Kits have the advantage that you get everything in one hit, nothing more to think about. However all the i3 bits should be easy to source in NZ. ( I have as well as a number of others). There are a few people sellying the main frame ingredients, then you have the choice of a number of vendors, both locally and ex China for the rest of the parts. Thby oatridge - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Re: Mendel 90 vs Prusa Mendel i3 in NZ? - 11 years ago
Although the basic I3 may seem just that there has been a lot of good input from many people with improvements, even to the level of nice cable tidiers. I have almost finished a build myself and I'm very pleasedwith the way it has come out. As to print quality, no matter what the printer it's all about the effort you put in to the tuning. There are some variations but once tuned most rep raps arby oatridge - New Zealand RepRap User Group