I've got a bed cooling fan that I use at the end of a print. I'd like to to turn on automatically when the print finishes. Is there any good way to do this in marlin with RAMPS1.4? I'm currently using D9 for part cooling during the print. I just found out about the Control Fan settings, this sounds good for cooling my ramps board only when its printing. I could possibly turn a pin on with M42 atby isolt - Firmware - Marlin
I got a sample of these They require a press fit into a precision machined bearing holder to work, they also aren't standard LMU88 sizing The ones you have sound much better. They still require a "light press fit". Sounds like you're squashing them out of round.by isolt - Reprappers
Looks like the IGUS bearings are also designed as a press fit. They're pretty sloppy by themselves.by isolt - Reprappers
I could give it a go. Man those parts have a lot of bridging and unsupported overhangs though... ABS or PLA? Any requests on perimeters and infill?by isolt - New Zealand RepRap User Group
I can offer ABS in black or white if you haven't already organised something. Cheersby isolt - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Yep as above, where are you? Happy to pay postage if not close? How about posting a link to the parts you want or attaching them to make it easier for people to help you. Cheersby isolt - New Zealand RepRap User Group
milkypostman I got some of those Igus ones and the matching extruded rods. Although they say "Dimensions correspond to the standard for recirculating ball bearings " they aren't talking about LM8UU unfortunately. So mine are still sitting on the shelf.by isolt - Reprappers
I've also been eyeing up the i3, looks nice!by isolt - New Zealand RepRap User Group
I also use solidworks. I ended up importing all the stl so that I could model things to fit around them. If the files are too complex FreeCAD can export them as step/igus format. Mating is difficult as stl files don't have round holes. I'd offer my files but they're for GT2 and now out of date.by isolt - Mendel90
There's a Henderson oneby isolt - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Three of us built M90's recently. Have a look at this topic to see how it went and some advice. Not sure what advice you got in the PM but here's the Wiki, there's some good info like a build manual and links. Here's a link to the BOM for the standard version. This is on the Github where all the files are stored. There's also a forum just for the M90, great for specific advice. Here's betteby isolt - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Only ships to americaby isolt - General
I don't think 3mm is a huge ask in laser cutting terms, but that might just be because I only deal with industrial laser cutters. Two in east Auckland I've used are They routinely cut mild steel thicker than that for us.by isolt - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Yeah there's a lot of unknowns, that's part of why I'm starting small. If you're interested I could post some updates if I achieve anything.by isolt - Mendel90
Some good other posts I found. Laser engraving, how to get started? RepRap to CNC Laser Engraving machine below cho says "The G-code need to replace the M101 & 103 to M104 S0 & M104 S255." so looks like I was on the right track. Issue 2 of the reprap magazine also had a good section on it. It's even got a table of different laser wavelenghts and what they're good for. Looks like a red 25by isolt - Mendel90
Considering you're thinking of using the hot end outputs to control the laser (I assume you'd attach some sort of current limiting circuit to the output) I'm not sure how you'd turn the laser on and off at the correct times. People seem to be using inkscape to generate gcode from images. I'm not sure what gcode inkscape would output to turn the laser on, but would you just "find and replace" witby isolt - Mendel90
You could solder up your own one It'd be a lot easier if you could find a PCB mount D plug though.by isolt - Mendel90
Hmm it does say you have to own both machines, so it's not actually 2 licences. Good point. It's a bit of an investment and there doesn't seem to be much talk on the reprap forums, I might just stick with Skeinforge for a while. Also what are the benefits of firmware retraction? Ashley says above it's not supported.by isolt - Mendel90
I got this response about licensing from them "Your license allows you to install the software on up to 2 different machines that you own. For example, if you wanted to run it on a laptop and a desktop, that would be fine!" So if you have a friend it looks a bit more affordable... That manual support placement looks intriguing.by isolt - Mendel90
Keep in mind that solidworks files are not backwards compatible. If your file was saved in 2012 upward you wont be able to open it in 2011. Best bet would be getting someone with 2014 to open it for you and save it as something you can use.by isolt - General
I self sourced a Mendel90, it was quite frustrating at points to find all the correct pieces but I got there in the end for around $500NZD. I did make my own hot end and got some good trade discounts on fasteners though. With cheap electronics on Aliexpress now you might be able to achieve something similar. Here a start. $90 of motors $50 of electronics (much cheaper than I paid, you can evenby isolt - New Zealand RepRap User Group
I quite like the LCD, i can print without being connected to the PC. It's also good for tuning, you can adjust the speed, acceleration etc on the fly. This configuration.h has the 0 point of the bed in the corner rather than the center because I couldn't figure out how to make the LCD display negative numbers. Hope this is of some help. Oh and winmerge again because it was great for seeing how myby isolt - Mendel90
I could never get nopheads fork to run my reprap discount lcd, it just seemed to cause a loop when ever I tried to enable an LCD. I gave up and used the most recent version and got it working after a lot of head scratching. I could upload my version if you like and you could use something like "winmerge" to compare the two files for differences.by isolt - Mendel90
Hey looking nice! What do you slice with? I've been using cura but can't get the start gcode to work the way I want. If you're looking for some cable chains I bought a large stationary folder for mine. It was the only source of polypropylene I could find that was long enough. If you're up this way again I've got quite a bit left. Did you see my post on LCD controllers, mine could have been positby isolt - New Zealand RepRap User Group
41southrap's build is what inspired me to build my own Mendel90! It did concern me that he seemed to get stuck and not finish as I was in an almost identical situation - First build, Mendel 90, and ramps! A few other people have Mendel90's in NZ now and there's a whole forum just for it, so I'm sure you'll be able to get the help you need if you get stuck. Nophead has a great step by step buildby isolt - New Zealand RepRap User Group
I was thinking of putting it on the lower right as well. There were a few problems though - The SD card is inserted from the right and the Y motor gets in the way. You cant angle it much as the bed comes right to the front. Also it was too far away from the electronics for the cables to reach (apparently making them much longer can effect the SD card reliability. Here's what I did It's got someby isolt - Mendel90
My Smart LCD controller was defective and I tried to email them through their gmail address but no reply. I originally bought it on ebay so I contacted them through there and got a reply after a couple of days and a new LCD unit in another couple. Pretty satisfied, it could have been a lot more grief!by isolt - General
Did you ever solve your corner problem? I'm having similar problems on my Mendel90. Increasing the acceleration from 2000 to 4000 has made it a little better.by isolt - Mendel90
I was in exactly the same boat, reprap discount electronics with endstops. I didn't realise that the RAMPS comes with internal pullup resistors. I ended up just buying some new mechanical ones. The RAMPS wiki isn't that clear, the diagram shows how to wire up mechanical endstops and the positions indicated are for the minimum end stops. If you're going to mount your Z endstop at the top make sureby isolt - Mendel90
See the lighter red squiggly lines (mostly inside the white square)? Those are the heating element, don't drill into those. The darker area on the right hand side of the photo is fine to drill into. Cheersby isolt - New Zealand RepRap User Group