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http://reprap.org/wiki/RUG/New_Zealand Discussions on suppliers, meetups, and how to keep Keas from eating your extruder heads.
Re: Many lasers into one, by means of fiber glass - 9 years ago
Not really. As the waves of light would start to interfere with each other and start to cancel each other out. So you would have to get the wave lengths into sync with each other which isn't practical.by TheTechnicalNoob - MetalicaRap
Re: BerryBot3D Loves the new E3D V6 hotend!! - 9 years ago
Hey, Mr Werner, I'm doing some optimization on some code atm. Supposedly, the thing slowing down your segments per seconds is the square root operation. Here jamesdanielv has figured out a way to make the sqrt function 3 times faster, while being 3.5% accurate. In marlin_main.cpp at about line 4000, there's the function calculate_delta. Its where the delta stuffs is calculated in which you coulby TheTechnicalNoob - General
Re: Spectra Line Considerations: Grip and 'Walking' Sideways - 9 years ago
The way to deal with it is to have the string knotted onto the pulley in the middle. This way, when it winds and unwinds it will walk left and right, but always remain centred. By doing it this way, your pulley will have to be wide enough to accomodate the string when the carriage is at the ends of the linear rails.by TheTechnicalNoob - General
Re: BerryBot3D Loves the new E3D V6 hotend!! - 9 years ago
That looks fantastic Werner, congrats! I really like the colors you chose. An inspiration, thank youby TheTechnicalNoob - General
Re: BerryBot3D Loves the new E3D V6 hotend!! - 9 years ago
I printed mine at 100% infill so it runs a tad slow. Have you had the gears drag on the flywheel? Mine do. I'll print a small washer to fix that. Have a good day too! EDIT: Sorry ekaggrat, I didn't see your reply before. Here's the link to the clock: www.thingiverse.com/thing:328569 P.S. I have a hand built wooden clock I did a while back, I'm considering making a 3d printable version at someby TheTechnicalNoob - General
Re: BerryBot3D Loves the new E3D V6 hotend!! - 9 years ago
That print precision is incredible. As for the pauses in the print, here's some ideas. Perhaps find a way to reduce the cpu load on your arduino (think more efficient firmware (teacup and others) or disabling the screen) or, upgrade hardware (Arduino Due comes to mind, it has a 32 bit ARM cpu whereas the arduino has an 8 bit proccessor), or slow the print speed a bit. Speaking of printing a clby TheTechnicalNoob - General
Re: Knight - 10 years ago
Do you have a link for the model file? Wow impressed.by TheTechnicalNoob - Look what I made!
Re: Effector "Rocking" - 10 years ago
I'm betting the radius of your rod ends was greater than the radius of the balls. I'm surprised people are glad to switch to traxxas rods, as theoretically they wear out over time and have slop and get more as time goes on. Whereas the magnets are tight from the start and still are ages later, assuming they are well made. Either or, both work.by TheTechnicalNoob - Delta Machines
Re: RepRap using DC Motors! - 10 years ago
QuotePulsedMedia WHY all this negativity? Every time someone present a idea not conforming the standard people are naysaying! Whats being said is that it will take days of work to get this working, when for $11.80 usd at robotdigg.com you can have yourself a working stepper motor + driver. But, once this is made, a junkpunk bot will be a lot more feasable, if this design proves effective. I wasby TheTechnicalNoob - Reprappers
Re: choice betwen delta and xyCore - 10 years ago
Its probably because of the torque a h-bot exerts on the carriage. It's why the corexy was invented. The theory of operation and advantages are discussed here.by TheTechnicalNoob - General
Re: choice betwen delta and xyCore - 10 years ago
Have any pictures AgentX?by TheTechnicalNoob - General
Re: Electronics buyers guide? - 10 years ago
As a student myself I know what it is like to have a budget. The local importers here charge a fortune. I found robotdigg.com recently. I haven't ordered from them yet, but reading reviews they seem to be good. Their prices are competative if not cheaper by a huge margin with the lowest prices I have seen anywhere with the products I have seen on their site. So make sure not to over look themby TheTechnicalNoob - General
Re: Waves in the build? - 10 years ago
Quotejaguarking11 The spider webbing comes from retraction speed on the extruder. The retraction lenght I would argue, is more important.by TheTechnicalNoob - Delta Machines
Re: choice betwen delta and xyCore - 10 years ago
A standard cartesian system printer could be called slow I guess, but that's in comparison to a delta bot. Really what it comes down to is would you like more speed or more accuracy? What will affect print times a lot is what nozzle size you pick. Keep that in mind. I have a cartesian based printer that I run at 50mm/sec and I'm happy with that. It may not be blazingly fast, but the qualityby TheTechnicalNoob - General
Re: New Prosumer Printer - 10 years ago
For slicing software I'd highly recomend Cura over Slic3r, kisslice and skeinforge all of which I have tried. Cura has a good work flow and is straight forward to use and tweak. Highly polished. Brought to you by the same people who make the ultimaker: EDIT: Also, Cura chooses better toolpaths than Slic3r which I have used extensively. So there you goby TheTechnicalNoob - General
Re: Gaps at starting and stopping points - Bowden tube - 10 years ago
Solved. The solution was to use Cura to slice the object. It sliced the object as lines instead of little blobs stuck together. Btw, Cura is FOSS and so much slicker to use than slic3r.by TheTechnicalNoob - Printing
Re: filament piles up in extruder cavity - 10 years ago
You might need a longer barrel to stop the heat migrating to the top so quickly as it's obviously too warm just under the extruder. A fan might help to keep the upper end of the hotend a bit cooler, but looking at yours, it looks like theres not much length to cool as it seems quiet short.by TheTechnicalNoob - Printing
Re: Poor Adhesion - 10 years ago
That's not delamination of layers, that's a plain and simple break. Is the hole too small? I would think it is. You might have to recalibrate you extrusion width again, looking at you top infill it looks like it's slightly high right now.by TheTechnicalNoob - Printing
Re: hot end sometimes scrapes - 10 years ago
You can use the M119 command in the pronterface command line. It will report back the status of the endstop swithches (closed or open). I manually spin the rods on my printer to lift z a bit when I think the z is too low, so I can see what difference it makes.by TheTechnicalNoob - Printing
Re: Prusa i3 stopping mid print*video* - 10 years ago
Quotepremek check temperature of yours stepper motor and stepper driver He said when the problem occurs the 5 volt rail drops to 3.3 volts. I would say that would almost certainly be the cause of the problem and nothing to do with the stepper driver temperature.by TheTechnicalNoob - Printing
Re: hot end sometimes scrapes - 10 years ago
To me it looks like there is too much plastic coming out. Either the Z axis isn't going up as much as it should be, or there is too much plastic coming out. I have bed autoleveling. When setup properly it gives a first layer that is perfectly level and at the correct height. You definetly will have to calibrate Z axis steps whether you use autoleveling or not.by TheTechnicalNoob - Printing
[SOLVED] Gaps at starting and stopping points - Bowden tube - 10 years ago
I've got my printer calibrated to the point I can print things quiet nicely. Just one issue though: When slic3r decides to print the files as lots of dots next to each other the dots aren't touching each other. I'm using a bowden cable (50-60cm long) with a retraction of 6mm at 30mm/sec. Parts are coming out as they should be, except that the top infill is slightly empty, even after calibratingby TheTechnicalNoob - Printing
Re: Finally got my quality back up to, and beyond, what it used to be - 10 years ago
MrDoctorDIV, I like your style. Your blog is good reading too. I myself have a repstrap that is slowly mutating from its humble beginings into something somewhat more respectable. We are on the same road. The ultimate printer.by TheTechnicalNoob - Look what I made!
Re: What size Hotend Nozzle should I get? - 10 years ago
I was on the same boat as you not long ago. I ended up getting a 0.5mm nozzle. Reportedly its much faster than a 0.3mm nozzle, but I'm just not getting the fine detail others are able to be able to get in their prints on tiny objects. Nonetheless what detail I am able to get is still respectable. Faster or slower with more detail? That is the question.. Some reading here if you're interested:by TheTechnicalNoob - Printing
Re: Overhang issues - 10 years ago
I think if you tried combining infill on every 1 layer it would help with those cracks you are getting. Just in general: I see there are also bits of plastic at the start and stopping points. There's a print you can use to easily tell how well your retratction is: It's quiet good because it becomes very obvious if it's working well or not. You'll want that print to come out nicely. Next thereby TheTechnicalNoob - Printing
Re: Waves in the build? - 10 years ago
I find when it's calibrated properl it doen't overshoot the temperature by 10-20 degrees like it used to when heating up and also maintains temperature with less temperature swing. So its a bit better and faster in that sense. Adds a tad more polish I guess.by TheTechnicalNoob - Delta Machines
Re: Waves in the build? - 10 years ago
Good spotting! I thought the defaults in marlin were set to pid already! Some cool reading and calbrating you could look at to make it even better:by TheTechnicalNoob - Delta Machines
Re: MegaBot large print 
- 10 years ago
Woah, mega indeed! Pretty sweet setup you have thereby TheTechnicalNoob - Look what I made!