Hey Vik - I see your complete extruder on TradeMe, noticed you'd got the Nema17 from mindkits. I've ordered mine from the same place, though I was wondering how well it would hold up in the extruder, iirc they're only 23Ncm (still the highest I've been able to find in NZ though) however Wades calls for 40Ncm? - or maybe I've just misunderstood something. was going to give the mindkits one a goby se5a - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Edit: oops, nevermind, wrong threadby se5a - New Zealand RepRap User Group
I'll give RAMPS + easydrivers a go then. I also like the extra axis that RAMPS gives.by se5a - RAMPS Electronics
fitting a mounting point is not that big an issue, manualy wiring some plugs is not that big a deal. I initialy thought a steper controller was a steper controller, but looking at the two I'm seeing that the Pololu has an extra ms3 that the easydriver one does not... was hoping I could use the easydriver as I can order them localy. and since I wanted to have a play around with an arduino anywaby se5a - RAMPS Electronics
I don't think you're getting the point here Richard, Sublime is calling them out on false(or at least somewhat deceptive) advertising and using others work without consent.by se5a - General
Considering Sublime has some of the best quality work out there, I think he has a case.by se5a - General
Doubt that will be a problem since the Mega (from what I understand) can be run on 5v through the pin, or powered 7-12v (recomended) 6-20v(min/max) through the power plug.by se5a - Next Wave Electronics Working Group
Anyone used RAMPS with easydriver stepper controlers?by se5a - RAMPS Electronics
That would be me; yours were cheeper than Dusts and I didn't need the bearings which Dust's came with.by se5a - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Those look like different designs rather than "who printed who's" Cool idea though.by se5a - General
May be interested there NelsonRap - I've started getting my other bits and pieces together. just ordered stepper motors and drivers thismorning. What are printed parts going for in NZ at the moment?by se5a - New Zealand RepRap User Group
That's a really useful video tutorial Royco I watched all three and realised I'd been 'doing it wrong' my whole life. oh well, here's to getting better!by se5a - RAMPS Electronics
Foogoo Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > Thanks for all the replies. The only thing that worries me about > the Prusa is someone casually mentioned in another > thread that the Prusa "built from plastic" will > not last very long. Can anyone comment on it's > longevity? Considering that the Prusa can print it's own parts, that point is, to some extby se5a - General
volunteerlabrat Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > About the electronics. > > I kinda am. The board is a nasty SMD board you > cannot solder by hand. soldering up a board is all part of the experience man! Creating a board you can't solder by hand and trying to keep costs down seems counter intuitive? SMD can be done by hand unless you go really tinyby se5a - General
So what's the firmware doing differntly in those two?by se5a - General
Sounds interesting, post us some pictures of this colapsible version when you've got one. Are you going to open source your electronics?by se5a - General
Good to know, I'm probibly going to end up trying to source most parts before heading down to Christchurch from Auckland, used to work for the trampoline and swing factory, who should probibly be able to get me some of the steel parts at a good price. should be able to get the m8 nuts from them dirt cheap anyway.by se5a - General
Sublime Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > I simplified the measurements and made mine > slightly larger based on the material length. It > prints 220 x 215. yeah if we're cleaver we can tweek the mesurements to get the most out of the most comonly sold lengths of rod (1m I think?) if we're extra clever and keep the triangle proportions the same, we won'tby se5a - General
What's with the odd sizes on the threaded/smooth rods in the BOM for the Prusa? ie: M8×294mm front / rear 8mm×406mm Y-bar why not 295 or even just 300mm for the front/rear and 405mm for the ybar. which brings me to another question: Could the overall size be tweeked so we can get most the rods the same size and make it a little bit more simple? Note: I've not built one yet so I might beby se5a - General
Ah. so just keeping to the KISS principle then.by se5a - Next Wave Electronics Working Group
Wonder if that should be put on the wiki Printrun page.by se5a - General
Forgive my ignorance, but what's the problem with a double sided PCB? Can you not get double sided PCB plate, mill/drill one side then flip it over and mill the other? Failing that why not mill two plates, then glue them back to back? or is it a problem with alignment?by se5a - Next Wave Electronics Working Group
Marcin Wrote: ------------------------------------------------------- > >... but I have seen guys building some aluminium up by > hand using a mig, where the ally was cut too small > / short etc. Surely all we'd need to do is > automate the motion + operation of it, instead of > coming up with something completely new. >,,, I've done this, with steel MIG. (built up layers oby se5a - Powder Printing and Selective Laser Sintering
This hasn't been commented on much, but it does look good so far. definatly on of the docs I'll be refering to when I build mine.by se5a - General
Going by sublime's picture, you could use a multimeter to find which connections have the highest resistance. I'd be suprised if could burn the motor out by wiring it wrong, more likely it will work or don't work. just don't try keep it on for an extended period in a wiring configuration that does not work. I'd be a little worried about the board, but if you find which contacts have the highesby se5a - General
Ah, so it's been done, and successfully too. Nice to know the name of it and can look into it further now. Erik looks like he's got some good documentation: Has anyone successfully done it with multiple filiments going into the same hotend?by se5a - Plastic Extruder Working Group
Wow, I think you just flipped my decision for making one from 'Thinking about it' to 'Almost definiatly going to'. it's on my 'todo for next year' list.by se5a - General
Anyone tried feeding the filiment from off the head through something like Mig gun liner - ie same way a Mig welder does it? Wondering if by doing this, you could maybe feed more than one filiment into an adapted hotend, enabling you to switch colours/filiment types during print. or is this going to cause some loss of control/add some lag into the system, reducing acuracy/cause other problems.by se5a - Plastic Extruder Working Group