well, I'd look at this idea more like the difference between a laser printer and a dot matrix printer. instead of one line at a time............... print an entire layer in one shot. A laser printer uses electrical charges to adhear small particles of coated ink to a drum and them rolls that across a peice of paper then melts the coating off leaving the ink behind. I'm pretty sure we could getby Zerker - General
Got some more time to spend on the printer and printed more test prints, see latest in link image is part of a failed iphone case print, stopped after the first layer, can someone take a look at the piece on the left hand side and tell me what is going on? the other two pics I'm pretty happy with, if I can sort out what is happeing in the first one I should be about good to goby Zerker - New Zealand RepRap User Group
on the note of threaded rods, for your Z axis it may be worth looking at stainless rather than galvinated, the stainless ones dont cost much more.by Zerker - General
slice a new small object, and paste the contents of the exported gcode here, have someone from the forums, replace the end code with the advised end code, copy the new code we give you in its entirety and replace that with what is in your exported gcode file, save th change and then load the new exported code. and print that Retraction refers to when the fillament being feed into the hotend is pby Zerker - New Zealand RepRap User Group
for a hotend, best to get it from a nkown supplier, for the chamber? is your garage drafty? does the temperature flactuate by 5 or so degrees over the space of a few hours? It's most likely going to be fine, get the printer running and then decide if you need a chamber or notby Zerker - General
the Jhead from www.hotends.com is the only "True" Jhead, the others are clones/knockoffs of copies, if your after a Jhead just get the offical one from the inventor, he is a great guy with great custoemr service, I don't know much about the E3D as I ahve not used one myself, but from the sounds of the forums, these are the main 2 that get used, there are others out there but most get relativly trby Zerker - General
please post pictures of your printer. especially the cold end of our extruder, hotends are a common part that you should be able to replace with any of the popular ones, what will determin this is how the hotend attaches to the coldend. if a Jhead or E3D or something simmilar can slide right in then thats the easist thing to fix. for your electronics, you havent said what it is that you need toby Zerker - New Zealand RepRap User Group
watching your print, does your hotend move at all?by Zerker - Reprappers
was the Y over or under by that amount? I'd assume it is potentially some backlash in there that is being effected by the larger mass of the bed. are you sure they have used the same number toothed pulley for X and Y? steps_per_mm = (motor_steps_per_rev * driver_microstep) / (belt_pitch * pulley_number_of_teeth)by Zerker - New Zealand RepRap User Group
I never tried loading the firmware with just the arduino, I always figured it needed the RAMPS connected, have you been able to load any other files the the arduino? if you have a look at their site you can get a few simple samples that blink the LED lights on the arduino, will let you know if it's working.by Zerker - New Zealand RepRap User Group
aprently you can do it with dry ice as well. I would have thought something more along the lines of a shear rather than small scale like a blender. You make a good point though, for example PLA is a biodegradable product (if composted correctly) having somewhere to send it so that it can be broken down, or knowing more about the process so you can attempt to do it at home would be a better use oby Zerker - New Zealand RepRap User Group
I would imagine that something like the fillastruder would be what you would want to use. instead of throwing beads/granules in there you would want to pre-grind up the plastic parts to have them uniform so they dont get stuck. The biggest problem would be controlling what plastic you put into the machine. if it's recycled prints of your own then it's not too much of a problem, but recycled fillby Zerker - New Zealand RepRap User Group
I may have forgotten to calibrate my printer. Yup egg on face I started calibration and skipped form bed leveling straight to printing a cube to check that the X Y and Z were working as expected, I was rather worried about the amount of free play in the printer, so worried I completly forgot about other aspects. I linked one of the above print pictures into the IRC chat last night to see what tby Zerker - New Zealand RepRap User Group
not that I've heard of, but if anyone is I'd be interested in sending you some failed prints from time to timeby Zerker - New Zealand RepRap User Group
My Y axis seems fine, I've attached the bearings with cable ties directly to the bed and there is no noticeable free play in there in Pic 3 those three short rods have an error on the right hand side, that line is stringing where the printer goes from one piece to the other, they were printed together. pic 4 is the same file and again 3 in one print, no stringing between them I'm pretty sure theby Zerker - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Long time no post. been getting a bit of work done over the holidays (new job at work too so I actually get holidays, no more call centre for me, I'm an application specialist (I fix issues for records in the databases that users cant see from the GUI, well till august when the person I'm filling in for returns to work)) I've completed the bed leveling fix I mentioned in my last post, screws nowby Zerker - New Zealand RepRap User Group
;Generated with Cura_SteamEngine 14.12 ; Default start code G28 ; Home extruder G1 Z15 F50 M107 ; Turn off fan G90 ; Absolute positioning M82 ; Extruder in absolute mode M190 S50 ; Activate all used extruder M104 T0 S210 G92 E0 ; Reset extruder position ; Wait for all used extruders to reach temperature M109 T0 S210 Right on that last line it tells your printer to wait for the extruder to hit 2by Zerker - General
I think there is some reference to humidity experiments on the forums, I recall reading about people cooking their ABS in an attempt to remove the moisture. I also recall reading thoughts that most of the moisture gets in at the point of manufacture, not sure on this though. in regards to your plate not being flat, have you tried relaxing some of the tension in the frame to see if this reduces tby Zerker - New Zealand RepRap User Group
you should be able to paste the code in between code tags like thisby Zerker - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Have you done overhang and bridging calibration?by Zerker - New Zealand RepRap User Group
What colour?by Zerker - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Quotemoth4017 The Acrylic is very stiff and is all 8mm, the only thing I may add is a all thread rod to keep apart the Y stepper motor from the Pulley when you put on the belt tension the Acrylic bends in about 1mm on both ends , I guess this would happen with wood and the all thread type, The Power supply is 12V 15A, with a Melzi controller . First Hi Moth4017, your user name is familiar, haby Zerker - New Zealand RepRap User Group
in your laptops power settings it can turn off the usb ports if they are not in use, try to turn that off. i would suggest to take a long hard look at how the printer contacts the endstop switches, what part of the printer makes contact? does the whole switch move? does it need to be more firmly affixed to the frame? can you move the switch so that the printer makes contact with the far end of tby Zerker - New Zealand RepRap User Group
good to see you got the motors sorted. as to the motor whine, this is normally due to the trimpots being set a little too high. turn the trim pots down (WITH THE PRINTER OFF, no power, not connected to US and then connect again and move motors, you want to get them down to the point that they no longer move, and then turn them up just enough to get the moving. my Z still makes some noise after iby Zerker - New Zealand RepRap User Group
jhead stopped using their old one as they are EOL not because they were inferiorby Zerker - New Zealand RepRap User Group
I'm not sure on what reading you should get, but make sure you have the correct thermistor setup in Marlin, I dont have my laptop in front of me with my config file on it, but this is from the Jhead website: "Description: While smaller than the EPCOS thermistor, this thermistor will work with all J-Head hot-ends. Please ensure that thermistor table 5 (for Marlin and Sprinter) is selected in youby Zerker - New Zealand RepRap User Group
if you copy and paste the cofig file contents here we can take a lookby Zerker - New Zealand RepRap User Group
if you have Marlin firmware loaded it will give you the expected Baud rate in the Configuration.H file well Pronterface is connecting to something if you are getting anything coming back. the messages wont make any sense until you connect to the correct comport at the correct speed. is it possible you are trying to connect to the wrong device? are you sure the arduino USB port or cable are stillby Zerker - Reprappers
But did you try the black PLA? has anyone worked with the 3mm? I may order a roll and see how that goes, the 3mm only comes in the 1KG rolls Hobby is only listed as 1.75mmby Zerker - New Zealand RepRap User Group
what size is the bed? can you not just add a heat bed to it and then you will have both? if you are using those motors you will want to use the DRV8825 drivers not the lower rated ones that most RAMPS users use, they are designed for 1.5 Amp before active cooling and 2 Amp with. given the enclosed chamber, having the feeder sounds like a good idea, however would you be able to replace it entireby Zerker - General