n.glasson, was your Aliexpress seller the same as mine? I have found no defects or bends with the ones I recieved (I will double check them tonight). from what Mike P said about the smooth rods, it sounds like anything that is smooth and straight should work, althought softer metals will end up with groves like you Say N.Glasson.by Zerker - New Zealand RepRap User Group
printed parts arrived, Jhead arrived. now for the last few pieces, micro switches, hobbed bolt, glass surface, springes for bed and wades extruder. anyone know what type of springs these are? cheap sources for hobbed bolts that arent junk? and micro switches? I found one source for Hobbed botls but they only sell 13 at a time, not sure I can find 12 others to buy the remainder, and the Hobbed boby Zerker - New Zealand RepRap User Group
for cooling fans, yup import em from somewhere like aliexpress 4-6$ instead of $20+ if you buy local. for power supply you want one that has 30amps on the 12v rail, if you want to use a heated bed. without heated bed 16 amps will do. for a pc power supply to have 30amp 12v rail you are generally looking at 450watt plus, this is because most budget pc's need more 5v amps than 12v. what are you usby Zerker - New Zealand RepRap User Group
excelent, thank you for the links, I will look into this furhterby Zerker - Developers
Hi just a crazy thought but with regards to the RepRap Project, has anyone thought of atempting to do away with Linear guide rails and bearings with the use of a heringbone gear rack and pinon style setup? a carriage with two normal skate bearings at the top, and a stepper motor driven herringbone geaer beneath a printed square bar with gearing on the bottom something like _______O_____O__by Zerker - Developers
what kind of things have you built before? mostly if you buy a kit it tends to be a matter of assembling, and there are a lot of youtube videos to show you how to do it. the electronics and wiring diagrams can be a little confusing, but if you've ever assembled soemthing like a PC before it's on about that level, for the RAMPS board in the kit you are looking at, all pins should be labled and it'by Zerker - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Hiya, looks great, will the new one have to have a heated build chamber to achieve 800mm Z height?by Zerker - New Zealand RepRap User Group
the biggest costs I have found so far were the motors, the Jhead, and the frame. I have looked at getting kits in before and they are expensive, yes they will be easier to put together with support and all items cut to size (in theory), ready to go. however until someone starts selling full printer kits in NZ, it's not going to be ideal Cost wise. with the prices I have paid so far, and being vby Zerker - New Zealand RepRap User Group
I would also be willing to give it a once over, I'm going to read it all anyway, so an early draft copy going my way could be good.by Zerker - RepRap magazine
Ditto, there are help and support forums, and even spicific forums for specific parts and printer models and yet you find all sorts in the Repprappres and general forum, perhaps moderation and moving of posts?by Zerker - General
smooth rods look good, the bearings i have purchased seem a bit snug. here is the link to the rods cut to length for boxframe. i have decided i will just get the default github STL's to get up and going, i can always print any recommended upgrades later.by Zerker - New Zealand RepRap User Group
now that is a kool story bro, dragons or not. good to see this went to a good homeby Zerker - New Zealand RepRap User Group
just got a txt to say my smooth rod has arrived at work, wont get to open them till tonight though, looking forward to seeing if i got ripped or not. i also found a nuts and bolts list on the Prusa I3 wiki page i ordered the full list from EDL Fastners most of it has to come from Auckland so will be at least tomorrow to pick that up. i will past the list at the end, i got a quote from them $18.08by Zerker - New Zealand RepRap User Group
hi, the re-work has it's own wiki page, heres the link on the introduction page they list the improvements which appear to be using the Einstein version for it's base as it does not mention the change to m10 over the original m8 for threaded rod. JBfromOZ has a wiki page that covers some of the Einstein's development and it also clearly labels which RP parts are different for his build prusas bby Zerker - New Zealand RepRap User Group
plywood sorted. bunnings checkout operator couldn't find the right price so gave me the one that most closely matched the dimensions, got 1200 x 1200 x 12 mm untreated for NZ$42.42 and they even cut it down for me so it would fit in the car, for free. called EDL Fasteners for a quote on stainless threaded rod. $15.26 for 1meter M5, 1meter M8 And 1 meter M10. that lot was going to cost me $32.32by Zerker - New Zealand RepRap User Group
time for a bit of an update. came across some extra funds so i have purchased linear rod from aliexpress, the listing was for the exact lengths and quantities for the box frame build so i snapped em up. i will post the link once they have arrived and i decide if i can recommend them or not. found bit not yet purchased what i think is the cheapest supplier for stainless threaded rod locally (Hamilby Zerker - New Zealand RepRap User Group
I'm not sure of the not catch fire part, but I got a free sheet of acrylic from a local supplier as an off cut, used this for a PC case window, was I think 4mm thick, would have made a nice box, was about twice the height of a mid tower case, by about the width of a midtower pc case sheet metal that is less than 2mm think is pretty easy to cut with a jigsaw and bend in a vise, could make a box ouby Zerker - New Zealand RepRap User Group
that's Kliment's site, the whole thing appears to be down, though his flickr is still up, and you can find some of his prusa i3 pics hereby Zerker - Reprappers
the only person I've seen sell frames in NZ was Dust and I think he sold out. it may be a case of getting one either Laser Cut from acrylic or Melamine. or waterjet cut from aluminiumn localy. I looked into getting lasercut kits into NZ and the shipping was about the same as the product, in the end I decided to go for Plottr's redesigned box frame, but from the sounds of it you have been buying fby Zerker - New Zealand RepRap User Group
the drivers can draw more amps than they can efectivley cool themselves for. in the above thread from my edit, Mike P talks about this and advises fan cooling when drawing over 1amp. yes there is a trimpot on the stepper driver so you can turn it down and up, so I suppose it's not a big deal, but you wouldnt be getting the higher performance of those motors without drawing more power, so whats tby Zerker - New Zealand RepRap User Group
the stepper drivers have a max load of 2 Amps, you dont really want to go plugging in 2.5 Amp motors, thats why you wire the motors for your z axis in series as well, so that you arent making the one driver do double duty. if you have a look through this forum you can see quite a number of the motors us Kiwi's have bought and used, I've got these but I havent used me yet, I think Dust said he isby Zerker - New Zealand RepRap User Group
im not sure if this has changed or not but wasnt the e3d better for abs and not so good with PLA? also if you could post you parts list and sources that would greatly help those like myself who are still sourcing parts. if you go for acrylic there is a way to do it in 6mm and use the same dimensions and fastner sizes as the single plate. i think it was by using side supports, one of the sites thby Zerker - New Zealand RepRap User Group
heat sinks, GT2 belt and 20 tooth pulleys, LM8UU bearings all arrived. I've found a local source foe stainless threaded rod that is half the price bunnings wanted to charge. still haven't tested the electronics yet as I've had the PC farming Litecoins which i will use to buy my jhead once i can figure out how to sell them for US$ and get that on to PayPal. i still need fastners, skate bearing anby Zerker - New Zealand RepRap User Group
for x, e, y, motors i'm using for z motors i salvaged single header pins from an ATX PC case, the ones for the power and reset switches the jaycar headers are too wide for use on the z motor headers. if you are searching for them online you want 4 pin connecters with a pitch of 2.54 mmby Zerker - New Zealand RepRap User Group
ecelent respones guys, I guess I could have been more clear as to what I mean with optimal, perhaps prefered would have been a better choice of words? I have seen cheap 16 tooth pulleys cheap belt and pulley combo's for 20 tooth and then 30 and 40 tooth pulleys al for about the same price, I was wondering if their was a reason to go for the larger ones. from the sounds of it the 20 tooth oneby Zerker - Reprappers
just wondering if anyone has come up with the optimal number of teeth for the pulleys.by Zerker - Reprappers
I always thought the root of the blade, was where it attached to the hub, if so the above design would not help aleviate the problem of PLA not being strong enough to endure the Thrust force at the root. as it has been said above if there is no one at the university who has an ABS capable RepRap I'd be a little surprised, also you can actually build one yourselves. or there are firms out there tby Zerker - General
Frame Default is 12mm thick wood. Get something that is robust! The thickness is mostly needed because you screw into the side of the wood. 6x 450x100x12mm wood 1x 475x100x15mm wood the wood framed version is normally refered to as the boxframe, and the aluminium framed one is called the single plate version, this may cause some confusion in your research. this link is to the wiki prusa i3 builby Zerker - New Zealand RepRap User Group
cheers, I took a trip down to Jaycar and grabbed some simmilar wire. I'll borrow a multimeter and grab one from China. as soon as my heatsinks come in, I can wire it all up and test the electronics, I'm just short hotend and heated bed wont be getting HBP straight away, my current PSU does not have enough AMPS on the 12v rail to run everything, it will do RAMPS and hotend, but I wil either needby Zerker - New Zealand RepRap User Group
thanks for the replies Andy c what material are you printing with, any issues specific to pla or abs? Dust did you get yours working, do you have spare thermistors? how much for one. this would be $20.00 cheaper than a genuine jhead if i go for the complete aluhotend kit. the jhead clones on aliexpress work out to about the same price but i hear a lot of reports of jams with the clones, stillby Zerker - New Zealand RepRap User Group