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http://reprap.org/wiki/RUG/New_Zealand Discussions on suppliers, meetups, and how to keep Keas from eating your extruder heads.
Re: Prusa I3 BOM Help - 12 years ago
I didn't offer to send back the original ones. They would be of no use anyhow. I did send a photo showing the grinding defects. As you say, return shipping would cost more than they are worth.by n.glasson - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Re: Prusa I3 BOM Help - 12 years ago
My Aliexpress supplier was different from yours. Same sort of rating, price and product description though. Hopefully they come good with replacements. Aliexpress can be a bit of a gamble - sometimes you win, sometimes you loose.by n.glasson - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Re: Prusa I3 BOM Help - 12 years ago
Silver steel is not hardened and has poorer tolerance on ground diameter. Manufacturers don't recommend it for use with linear bearings. It will probably work fine with 3D printers because the loads are light and other things will probably crap out before your shafting. Just expect to see grooves appear over time as the balls in the linear bearings bed into the surface. With bushings rather tby n.glasson - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Re: Prusa I3 BOM Help - 12 years ago
I bought some 8mm linear shafting off Aliexpress recently and all 4 pieces are rejects. They aren't straight and there are grinding gouges on 3 of them (like someone has used an angle grinder on them to try and hide blemishes). The grinding defects can be felt by running fingers along rods. Flaws are clearly visible. The bend in the shafts is about 0.5mm over the 400mm length. Holding 2 shafby n.glasson - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Re: Cost of Rep Rap build.. - 12 years ago
An i3 kit from overseas would save a lot of shagging around. Take a browse at the buyers guide: http://reprap.org/wiki/Prusa_i3_Buyers_Guide. Complete i3 kits go for $500 - $650USD and you will either need to pay the tax man (on a $700USD purchase including shipping - about $170 - $210NZD extra according to this calculator - assuming it attracts either 0% or 5% duty). So yeah - you could be uby n.glasson - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Re: Smartrap project - 12 years ago
I'm liking the Smartrap as a prospect for an alternative to a Foldarap for a compact portable printer design. Looking at your pictures, I think it could pack up very small by making the Y axis guides separate from the Z axis so that the Y axis can be readily detached - motor and all - and packed into a box between the extended x-axis and the base plate. How small could it package do you think Sby n.glasson - General New Machines Topics
3Dprintboard design contest - please vote - 12 years ago
Sorry in advance if you consider this to be spam but I thought there was enough to interest NZ RepRappers to warrant a post (and maybe help me win). I am in Christchurch and made my own 3D printer late last year - see my signature for a video clip. It is based on a Prusa Mendel i2 but is more RepStrap than RepRap as the only 3D printed parts I sourced were for the extruder. My egg rack designby n.glasson - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Re: Summer news from G3D Garage (MendelMax $499, Cooling Plate, Fan Splitter) - 12 years ago
I have just worked out how to control the PWM fan output on the Gadgets3D fan splitter. Check out the attached instructions that I have just completed on this. I have made this change to my printer and it works great. This liberated the RAMPS D9 PWM output for possible future second extruder heating. I have forwarded this instruction to Gadgets3D as well in case they want to use it in the nexby n.glasson - For Sale
Re: First build Prusa I3 parts and advice needed - 12 years ago
Tamas I had a very good experience with Gadgets3D starter kit (electronics motors etc - not the whole printer kit you are looking at). I found that they often have some of their kits on ebay for less than their list price - if you are lucky you bid and win them for a bit of a saving. I bought mine that way. Delivery was super prompt (3 days from Hong Kong to my door) and overall quality was gby n.glasson - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Re: First build Prusa I3 parts and advice needed - 12 years ago
You will get a much better deal from Anzor or Blacks fasteners than buying from a hardware store. All the better if you are able to buy thru a company that has an account with a fastener supplier.by n.glasson - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Re: First build Prusa I3 parts and advice needed - 12 years ago
Sounds like the consensus is that these motors are overkill. I would probably be tempted to run with them and take care not to over-feed them from the drivers. It may be possible to add resistors in series to have hard wired current limiting but this is ugly. If you can change the order - go for it. The only other drawback I can see with higher current motors is the mass of the motors - in paby n.glasson - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Re: First build Prusa I3 parts and advice needed - 12 years ago
Zerker is right, many users struggle to get good results using all metal hot ends with PLA. It seem to be possible to tweak retraction and heating settings to get it to work but the E3D is better suited to ABS. The problem appears to be that the diameter of the PLA filament swells as it is forced by the extruder towards the hot end (and heat migrates up the PLA in the extruder). The E3D designby n.glasson - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Post processing G code for experimental X-Y setup? - 12 years ago
Having recently built my first repstrap based on a Prusa Mendel i2, I am now keen to explore an alternative arrangement for X and Y axes that will hopefully offer some advantages over the original. This experiment will involve radically different equations for the X and Y movement. One approach I am considering is to retain my entire existing reprap and just mount the alternative bed on top oby n.glasson - Firmware - experimental, borrowed, and future
Re: Placement of Z-smooth and threaded rods? - 12 years ago
Z smooth rods outside threaded rods makes the overall machine narrower than having it the other way around. If you had the threaded rods outermost, the machine would be at least the width of a stepper motor wider, for the same X travel. I doubt there would be any noticable difference in performance. X carriage design has a lot of variances. That is the great thing about reprap - you can easilyby n.glasson - Mechanics
Re: Blacksmith Printer: A Polar Printer That Works - 12 years ago
I am curious to know if this polar machine could be run usefully either with the whole machine inclined or with it tipped completely on it's side. Before flaming me as a crack-pot, think about the potential here... if the turntable is continually rotating, it may enable the printing of complex models with huge overhangs without the need for support. Obviously adhesion to the build bed would beby n.glasson - Polar Machines, SCARA, Robot Arms
Re: Compact printer ideas? - 12 years ago
The Scara looks awesome but it would certainly be a challenge to make with printed parts. I like the Tantillus concept. Having the build bed moving vertically makes a lot more sense to me than moving it horizontally. If the bed moves in the Y direction the printer will always be at least twice as long in that direction than the Y print length. There are two main reasons I am interested inby n.glasson - Mechanics
Compact printer ideas? - 12 years ago
I am interested in exploring the idea of making a reprap with compact overall dimensions - that is capable of making builds that are a large proportion of the printer volume (or even larger than the printer volume). My Prusa i2 is about twice the size in all dimensions as the models it can make. Deltas are good for a small footprint but are very tall. Folding repraps are a reasonable idea forby n.glasson - Mechanics