Have you tried NOT using the pva juice? I wipe the glass with isopropyl after scraping the big bits off with a boxcutter blade. The glass contracts after turning off the heat, and the part pretty much pops off by itself. Same printer but with ramps board, 1.75mm pla through j-head MK 5 and 0.3mm nozzle.by ShaneH - Printing
104 is nowhere near hot enough for pla. I've heard of some printing as low as 160, but most run between 180-190 deg c. I start at 189 for first layer, the drop to 185 for subsequent layers. Need to get hold of a proper temp probe to be sure you are hitting the higher temps. Does your heat bed come up to temp?by ShaneH - Mendel90
BIG shout out to naldarn for doing this favour for me. Topic is now closed. Cheers.by ShaneH - 3D Design tools
Greetings, A colleague of mine is building a 1/48 scale model of a WWII Fletcher Class Destroyer (this thing will be around 8 feet long!), and needs to create the hull profiles for the ribs and bulkhead plates. Typically, the only 3D model we can find is a SolidWorks part (http://grabcad.com/library/1-1-scale-fletcher-class-destroyer-1/files/Fletcher%20Class%20Destroyer%20Hull%201%20to%201%20Scby ShaneH - 3D Design tools
The heat bed mosfet is notoriously bad on the RAMPS board. I had one get so hot it desoldered itself from the pcb. The polyfuse also got really hot, I'm assuming that it was going flat out setting/resetting itself. So first thing I would do is replace the mosfet with one like a IRLB8743PBF, then replace the polyfuse with an external one (glass tube or automotive blade type). I have a fan blowby ShaneH - Reprappers
Just a quick thought...have you jumpered the unused end stop header pins on the ramps board? The switches trigger when they are in the open state when wired for 'normallly closed' No jumpers in the headers tricks ramps into thinking the other end stop has been hit (even if you don't actually have the end stop there). So you can either jumper the headers, or reverse the end stop logic in the conby ShaneH - Printing
Just ref your first post with your settings listed, you are extruding 1.75mm pla filament at 210 deg? That seems a bit high. I've got pretty much the same setup (except mine is the mendel90) and I've got it set to 185 for the hotend and 60 for the bed. if it's too hot, and its jamming on retract, it could be pulling molten filament back up into the colder section, chilling off then jamming. Chby ShaneH - General
If you are replacing that really badly overheating heatbed mosfet then the one you want is the RLB87430PBF. Mine got so hot that it desoldered itself from the ramps board. This one runs nice and cool with no additional heatsink.by ShaneH - General
Wow...looks like it was printed with a potato!! Or some newfangled mega extruder with a 4" nozzle! :-)by ShaneH - General
How would the belts handle the forces exerted in the X and Y axis during milling? The dremel bit rotation will be working hard to drive itself away from the cut face (climbing or decending cuts) unless you are doing plunge cuts. You would have to be doing extremely small layers or cutting at extremely slow speeds to reduce the forces to negligible. I've done an A3 printer to CNC conversion, andby ShaneH - CNC Routers, Mills, and Hybrid RepRapping
..late response...but.. I used acrylic for the frame parts of my Mendel90. The key to drilling the holes is making sure you have nice sharp drill bits, and properly support the underside so the bit doesn't' smash it's way out when it gets close to exiting. I used standard HSS drill bits in a drill press on top of a wood block. Pilot drill anything over 5mm and set the drill at the correct speedby ShaneH - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Mendel90 (sturdy), RAMPS1.4, j-head Mk5. e-bay was my friend... Got the printed parts from a guy in the UK, 3 days to get here. RAMPS board, stepper drivers, steppers, heated bed, 8mm linear bearings and hotend from China/Singapore based e-bay sellers. No problems at all with my j-head hotend (yep...it's a 'not the real thing'), but has not skipped a beat. For the frame, look to TradeMe for acby ShaneH - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Do your stepper drivers have heatsinks? I fried 2 of my steppers when the heatsinks got moved (fat fingersand not watching what I was doing) and shorted out the pins down one side. Worth a look.by ShaneH - General
Quote Each cycle of the AC wave has one positive, and one negative, so you would get 50 or 60 pulses on each, or for the pair 100 or 120 pulses. There's a project that uses audio signals at ~20kHz into some opposite polarity IR LEDs to make an audio to remote-controller adapter: My apologies -- I didn't intend to suggest that Arnold should run AC through his system, merely that one or the otby ShaneH - General
Quotetjb1 QuoteDaveX That means you are feeding it DC rather than AC. There are two leds so one or the other will light, no matter which direction you hook up the power. What? Beat me to it...LOL If you were able AC power to feed polarity opposed LEDs connected in parallel, from the MOSFET powering the PCB, both would actually light up. For 50% of the AC cycles, each LED is in the correct orby ShaneH - General
Like Mogal, I have been printing 1.75mm filament since day dot simply by slipping a piece of 1.75mm ptfe into the 3mm hole leading down to the hotend. Then just callibrate as per nophead's instructions, set the appropriate values in slic3r and good to go. Using a Mk5 J-Head and a 0.3mm nozzle. Never had a jam, and I don't use the fan either. Since I'm printing PLA directly to the glass (no gluby ShaneH - Mendel90
Sketchup Pro 8 for design + Sketchy Physics for animating parts (eg robot legs) and detecting potential problems with movement Using the STL exporter plugin for SU as well netfabb Basic 5.1 for automating repairs of STL files (sketchup won't alert to holes) Slic3r and Pronterface for gcode generation and final printing.by ShaneH - 3D Design tools
I've not long ago finished building the Mendel90 (not from a kit), and am happily printing directly to the glass...no juice/spray/PVA/tape...nada. I just make sure it is clean with a scraper blade, and a good wipe down with isopropyl alcohol. Since the build, I have not had the need to unclip the glass from the bed. I also manually turn the bed on well before starting the print so that the glasby ShaneH - General Mendel Topics