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http://reprap.org/wiki/RUG/New_Zealand Discussions on suppliers, meetups, and how to keep Keas from eating your extruder heads.
Re: RepRapPro closing down - 10 years ago
QuoteDarathy I converted it to STL for you : Thanks so much!by 0x0000 - Ormerod
Re: RepRapPro closing down - 10 years ago
@darathy, I was actually planning to design a y-axis-end STL file suitable for printing and put it on Thingiverse. I need to import the DXF and extrude the shape to 5mm, just cant find any software that will do it for free! Has someone already made one?by 0x0000 - Ormerod
Re: RepRapPro closing down - 10 years ago
Quotetrevmas Now I just have to sort out what I am going to do about my cracked acrylic y axis end plates. I used 5mm HDPE for my y-ends because I couldn't find 5mm acrylic anywhere locally. The bars are a bit loose in the holes, but I was able to use vinyl tape to tighten them up. I've wondered if CNCed aluminium might also workby 0x0000 - Ormerod
Re: RepRapPro closing down - 10 years ago
QuoteTreito @0000 did you exchange the pulleys, too? You will have to set the M92 parameter as the pitch is different. I am considering that exchange, too. GT2 pulleys as well. Y-axis was easy, but I had to sand out the edges of the x-arm a little bit to make the GT2 pulley fit. The belts I got don't stretch at all, even with handtools, and I had a very difficult time getting them into the carriby 0x0000 - Ormerod
Re: RepRapPro closing down - 10 years ago
Quoteorictosh For example on the Ormerod 2 MXL belts are use but every other supplier of rep rap based printer parts are selling GT2 belts I'm using GT2's on my Ormerod. The steps seem to be a bit inaccurate, but so far I've assumed it's a configuration issue. There are a few parts on the O2 that seem to be made specifically by RRP. The brass unions, hobbed inserts, and 5mm acrylic parts comeby 0x0000 - Ormerod
Re: Bowden Tube Clip broken at Extruder- Wheres the STL file? - 10 years ago
What a fascinating looking Ormerod! You've done an excellent job keeping your printer rigid on the Y axis @ormerod168. What materials did you use for the Y-ends, and what is the stuff at the bottom of the printer... looks like 5mm aluminium and maybe some steel along the bottom? It looks like the old acrylic is still in there holding the rods... did you have to modify the Y-idler and Y-motor mounby 0x0000 - Ormerod
Re: Building new Replikeo Ormerod 2, question about carriage - 10 years ago
I bought my 12mm rods from a local supplier. It was $30NZD including GST for 2 meters, including cutting costs. I live on an island in the South Pacific, so everybody else will probably get it for lessby 0x0000 - Ormerod
Re: The dreaded nozzle clog... How to fix? - 10 years ago
It's an all-metal hotend that claims to handle temps of 300C... I don't think it has a PTFE liner. I suppose it's possible it melted down, but I don't think it got that hot and I don't see any evidence of it. If it vapourised, I'd be sick for the rest of the dayby 0x0000 - Ormerod
Re: The dreaded nozzle clog... How to fix? - 10 years ago
Unfortunately, I don't have any other filament to try to cold pull it... I tried with the same PLA, but I think it's too clogged to reach the heated element, and I broke the thin wire on my nozzle cleaner trying to clear the blockage. Then I hit it with a cigarette lighter which seems to have no effect Lucky me, I have heaps of dichloromethane around as a paint stripper / welding compound forby 0x0000 - Ormerod
The dreaded nozzle clog... How to fix? - 10 years ago
My first go at printing, and I clogged up my nozzle. I have one sare, but I'd like to salvage this one if possible. Any tips on how to clean this out? That blue stuff is PLA, the nozzle is 0.3 mm brass, and none of it dissolves in acetone. Hotend got up to 240 or so in my attempts to extrudeby 0x0000 - Ormerod
Re: Bowden Tube Clip broken at Extruder- Wheres the STL file? - 10 years ago
I had a similar problem with my build. I didn't order the brass union at all, and had to improvise a way to keep the tube held in. See my thread here: . All you need is an extra M4 nut.by 0x0000 - Ormerod
Re: Bowden extruder is missing a brass union... what can I do? - 10 years ago
Treito, I love your LED cooling fan. Your tiny PTFE tube on the extruder's input hole is also a nice touch. What do the spring and nut do, and how did you attach them?by 0x0000 - Ormerod
Re: Bowden extruder is missing a brass union... what can I do? - 10 years ago
I think I've worked out a solution that only requires an extra M4 nut, no modifications, and no brass unions from an overseas supplier! As noted above, it's possible to thread an M4 nut onto a 4mm PTFE tube and have it grip pretty well. I later noticed that an M4 fits into the tongue slot of the extruder without and drilling or force, which gave me this idea! Before you begin, make sure your PTby 0x0000 - Ormerod
Re: Bowden extruder is missing a brass union... what can I do? - 10 years ago
@fotomas, no results found for pneumatic Do you mean one of these? I have one on my hotend, it works great. It came with my hotend kit but it's too big to be used on the stock extruder. The thread looks to be about 6mm for a 4mm PTFE tube, so the extruder could probably be modified to capture an M6 nut within the plastic body (kind of like the X-carriage does)by 0x0000 - Ormerod
Re: Bowden extruder is missing a brass union... what can I do? - 10 years ago
In light of the recent shutdown news, I can't order from RRP so I thought about the problem a bit and I did some reading. Few things grip PTFE very well, and ti turns out that a simple M4 nut can be threaded pretty tightly onto a 4mm PTFE tube, which also leaves "permanent" threads on it. This means you can print a part that captures a nut, and secure the part down to something sturdy (like the eby 0x0000 - Ormerod
Re: RepRapPro closing down - 10 years ago
Sorry to hear that. I was going to place an order yesterday but couldn't find the "Add to cart" button. I saw the Christmas announcement and assumed it was temporary... bummer. I printed my documentation out before starting my build, but it'd be good to have a digital copy. Could someone share their script to download the documentation?by 0x0000 - Ormerod
Bowden extruder is missing a brass union... what can I do? - 10 years ago
Hey all, In my adventures of assembling my scratch Ormerod, I'm now at the point where I need to print my orthoganal axes. I'm having problems extruding filament with my generic V6 hotend. It's working great, melting away PLA strands on to my heated bed, except for one detail... when I extrude filament, the PTFE tube gets pushed off of the tongue and out the top of the extruder. It's not held inby 0x0000 - Ormerod
Re: Ormerod 2 from scratch... commissioning, calibrating, and beyond! - 10 years ago
I tried bending it back with some pliers but it snapped off. Ah well, the button works now! Which presents another problem: the "tag" on my y-clamp seems to have broken off, so it can't actually reach the button. I've made a crude shim by jamming some leftover vinyl tape into the hole... The remaining stump will bump into it until I can print a new clampby 0x0000 - Ormerod
Re: Ormerod 2 from scratch... commissioning, calibrating, and beyond! - 10 years ago
I think I found the problem... I overlooked a subtle difference between the switch in the documentation, and the one I obtained from RepRapPro. The switch provided to me has a little metal flap covering the button, so you can engage it anywhere along the axis. This is the part that's causing the switch to engage! Here's what's on the documentation: Here's what's for sale in the RRP shop: <-by 0x0000 - Ormerod
Re: Ormerod 2 from scratch... commissioning, calibrating, and beyond! - 10 years ago
Just working through some issues I've found so far: 1) X axis was wonky because the motor needed to be tightened. The belt went all floppy when the value was < 100. It couldn't pull hard enough to overcome the "hump" in the x-rib, causing the belt to slip. 2) My x-axis "sticker" for the proximity sensor was not large enough. The sensor moved over an area slightly further back. 3) My Y endstoby 0x0000 - Ormerod
Ormerod 2 from scratch... commissioning, calibrating, and beyond! - 10 years ago
After four months of gathering parts, tools, building, and soldering, I can't believe I finally got this printer put together without injuring myself or burning my house down. I've named him Pintsize. Thanks to @dmould for the excellent ABS parts It's not quite working yet. I've reached the point where I'm commissioning and calibrating, and actually attempted to print the orthogonal axes thisby 0x0000 - Ormerod
Re: Anybody in Wellington have a 10A cylindrical fuse they can spare? - 10 years ago
Thanks frankvdh! I managed to get into Jaycar today and loaded up on fuses, with extras to spare. I spent the rest of my day calibrating the printer!by 0x0000 - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Re: Building new Replikeo Ormerod 2, question about carriage - 10 years ago
Do you mean the Y-carriage? The bearings should be a tight fit, but if you tip the rails so they're pointing at the ceiling, they should slide on the rails under their own weight. Make sure your steel rails are polished, smooth, and straight. Get some Scotch-Brite and clean them up. You have the benefit of Amazon in the USA, so that's the first place I'd look. I ordered mine from nzminiaturebeby 0x0000 - Ormerod
Re: Misumi 2020 stock - 10 years ago
Once I placed my order I dealt with them via email. I showed him the Ormerod 2 kit on RRP's website to specifically ask if his 2040s would work and they took the time to confirm. They're very helpful, and I had my rails in Wellington the next day. I had to get some acrylic cut in Lower Hutt and drove by quite a few aluminium extrusion shops on the way. Ullrich Aluminium in particular would probaby 0x0000 - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Anybody in Wellington have a 10A cylindrical fuse they can spare? - 10 years ago
I've just completed the wiring for my Ormerod 2, and have reached the point in the commissioning where I turn on the power supply for the first time... only to discover the IEC plug I picked up from JayCar doesn't have a fuse in it! I tried to scavenge one from my son's BrainBox kit but it's not up to the challenge. Nothing is open over the long holiday - does anybody have a spare one? Happy to pby 0x0000 - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Re: Misumi 2020 stock - 10 years ago
They're not official Misumi's but I believe they'll work for you: . I picked up some 2040's a few months ago and they even cut them to length before shipping them. They'll also tap the centre hole up to M5 if required. They ship out of Auckland. There's also a bunch of aluminium extrusion shops in the Lower Hutt, they just don't advertise online.by 0x0000 - New Zealand RepRap User Group
Re: Duet 0.6 Connector Type - 10 years ago
You can also buy the looms directly from RepRapPro. I wish I had seen those before ordering!by 0x0000 - Ormerod
Re: Duet 0.6 Connector Type - 10 years ago
They're called Dupont connectors. Or "jumper wires". Or "single-pin female headers". I bought these and wired it up today. They work perfectly!:by 0x0000 - Ormerod
Re: Duet 0.6 motor loom using 40-pin IDE cable - 10 years ago
QuoteTreito If your motors comes with 6 wires you can ignore two wires. The cores of your IDE-cable are probably to weak so they can burn. That would be not a good idea to use that. A crimping tool costs less than 20€ and the connectors are complete under 1€. Thanks heaps, Treito! I hadn't considered the amount of power running through the wires would be enough to burn them. Though now that hasby 0x0000 - Ormerod
Re: Duet 0.6 motor loom using 40-pin IDE cable - 10 years ago
QuoteDarathy Where did you order your Ormerod Kit? or did you make it yourself? Usualy you get complete set of wires with pins in kits. All my motors have 4 wires so i think you should be ok unless you have some other motor then Nema 17. Thanks Darathy. It's not a kit - I'm building from scratch! After reading Treito's comments, it sounds like finding crimps and crimping the correct wires isby 0x0000 - Ormerod