Yeah, it is obvious. The left one is with Octalapse. Even with repetier firmware if I had the tab with video stream in Octoprint open, the printer used to start stuttering. So I used to move out of the tab immediately and printing would become normal. Basically anything compute intensive caused Raspberry Pi 2 to cause stutter. With Marlin firmware it is constant stutter regardless of whetherby shah123 - Firmware - Marlin
Yeah, you should try upgrading to Raspberry Pi 3 or 4. Do you have Marlin? Apparently Raspberry Pi 2 doesn't have enough horse power to handle Marlin. It was fine with Repetier 1.0.3 at least, not sure how it is handling the latest Repetier either.by shah123 - Firmware - Marlin
Upgrading from Raspberry Pi 2 to Raspberry Pi 3 fixed the problem.by shah123 - Firmware - Marlin
Thanks for the reply. I have already tried this as well, forgot to mention. I reduced it down to 90% flow rate, as well as reduced the steps/mm of extruder from 100 to 90, but that did not make any difference. It is not over extrusion. The bumps are caused by the stalls which I can hear and see clearly. The nozzle momentarily stalls which causes the print to melt at that point, and may be soby shah123 - Firmware - Marlin
Just an update. I tried printing with SD card, and it prints without stalls/stutter. I tried printing straight from Cura and it again printed without stall/stutter. Looks like it is the combination of Octoprint and Marlin firmware that is causing it. Octoprint was working just fine with Repetier.by shah123 - Firmware - Marlin
I have had my Tevo Tarantula for quite a few years now. It was running a version of repetier. Finally I got fed up with manual bed levelling and decide to try out BL Touch. For that I switched over to Marlin firmware because this fine person has created a fork of Marlin with Easy Config parameters in configuration.h that allow you to setup BL Touch easily among other things, and sure enough itby shah123 - Firmware - Marlin
Ok, I changed #define min_software_endstops true to false which was correct. But one more thing that I did and I think I read about it in some forum, someone pointed out that there are two more #defines which are related to min and max endstops: //#define DISABLE_MAX_ENDSTOPS //#define DISABLE_MIN_ENDSTOPS They are both commented out by default. And they said they only uncommented this #definby shah123 - General Mendel Topics
Huh, did I disable the wrong one? I will have to look. I won't be surprised if I did that. :-)by shah123 - General Mendel Topics
From what I understand is that Marlin firmware implements the software based max end stops. So when it hits the hardware end stop, it calls it 0 and you set the size of your bed, and that allows it to compute the max end stops, which means that it won't let the axis move beyond that value. I know older firmware (a year or older) did not have this feature. This is something added later. It isby shah123 - General Mendel Topics
Thanks. I used those videos to setup mine. For whatever reason I ended up in running into this issue. I don't think he did. The only thing that I noticed when I was updating the new configuration.h file, while comparing it against existing configuration.h file, is that I had max endstops disabled as part of setting up the Auto Bed Leveling. I did not enable it back when I undid the changes fby shah123 - General Mendel Topics
I tried the latest firmware and it fixed the issue. So there was something that I did which I could not undo in the firmware that caused it.by shah123 - General Mendel Topics
Hi NarimaanV, Thanks for your response. 1) Yes this is the first and only printer I have every built. 2) I haven't made any changes other than the ones in configuration.h. I am using almost the latest (about a couple of weeks old) Marlin firmware from github. I am not using the stock firmware. Everything was working great before setting up Auto Bed Leveling. But in order to debug the G29by shah123 - General Mendel Topics
Currently I am having issues with Auto Bed Leveling. Here is the link to the post I have for this issue. But I am not getting much response. I guess people are not all that interested in Auto Bed Leveling. I am posting the link here in case if any of you have done it on their i3x.by shah123 - General Mendel Topics
Yeah, you don't need too much precision. I am not expert in soldering and I was able to easily do it. What I did was a little different from erikn: simply tin the cable well, heat up the connection points on the heated bed with the solder tip, put the cable tinned end on connection point and melt the tin. It is not difficult. And erikn, no, I did not have to bridge the ground connection to geby shah123 - General Mendel Topics
The heated bed needs soldering the cables. The cables carry a lot of current and hence they are thick. The crimps are for connecting the end stops, and the stepper motors to RAMPS etc.by shah123 - General Mendel Topics
I undid the auto bed levelling from configuration.h, and moved my end-stop back to z-axis from the servo, but I still continue to have the same problem. Looks like it is either the hardware issue or the configuration isn't quite undone yet. Something I changed while setting up auto bed level is still in effect and is causing this issue!!! Very frustrating.by shah123 - General Mendel Topics
I finally overcame this issue and then a couple of more, but now it is able to perform a 4-pt test and then it starts printing. If I feel z-axis with my hand I can tell it is moving slightly as X and Y move while printing, so all this looks great. Except the print itself is totally messed up. See the attached. It is supposed to be a test cuboid 3cm x 3 cm base and 2cm height with almost 2.8 cby shah123 - General Mendel Topics
I have setup the auto bed levelling (tired of manual levelling) on my Prusa i3. However I am running into an issue. When I home all the axes (run G28), all the axes work fine. Even the z-axis, the servo arm is extended, the z-axis lowers until the end-stop is triggered, it stops, retracts a little bit, lowers slowly again, end-stop is triggered again, and the arm is retracted. So it not onlyby shah123 - General Mendel Topics
Thanks a lot. That was it! Everything works like a charm. Even the default settings work fine. Thank you very much for your help. Wouldn't have guessed it myself. Thanks again. QuoteShootquinn Did you connect the provided jumpers with the jumper locations under the stepper drivers? see: http://reprap.org/wiki/RAMPS_1.4#Stepper_Driver_Boards you want the setup for 1/16 step.by shah123 - General Mendel Topics
Thanks for your response. I tried your values and a million other combinations, but the motors just humm. The only thing that your values improved is that when I click 100 steps part of the X-axis in Pronterface, it moves the motor about half a revolution, then humms for a few seconds, and then moves a half of the revolution and then stops. It seems like there are three regions of movement, thby shah123 - General Mendel Topics
Now however I am running into another issue. The Pronterface software along with Marlin firmware provided by diy tech shop is not able to turn the motors. The only thing I get is a grunting sound and motors barely moving. I am able to use the exact same setup with my own stepper motor test code (downloaded and modified). So looks like Marlin is having some issues in working with RAMPS 1.4 toby shah123 - General Mendel Topics
Thanks for the reply. I was finally able to figure out a solution. The extruder remains loose when I insert it with the cuts in the plastic piece on two sides positioned the way they are supposed to. If I turn it 90 degrees, the whole in the extruder assembly is too narrow to insert the extruder plastic piece in. So I simply filed the hole borders. Now it inserts snuggly in. Now that I seeby shah123 - General Mendel Topics
I am in the process of building Prusa i3 with RAMPS 1.4 running Marlin and finally got to the point where I could use Pronterface to turn the motors. I am able to connect via Pronterface and heat up the hotend. However when I try to turn any of the motors all I get is a grunting sound. Not much of the movement in the motors. However when I use my own test program (downloaded and modified), alby shah123 - General Mendel Topics
Anybody? Quoteshah123 I am in the process of building one. I have a question. The hotend's black plastic piece which goes into x-carriage assembly just slides in there. It doesn't latch and it is wibbly wobbly and comes off easily. Is this the case with you all? The only thing that could potentially prevent it from dropping out is the filament going through it. Is that normal, or you guysby shah123 - General Mendel Topics
I am in the process of building one. I have a question. The hotend's black plastic piece which goes into x-carriage assembly just slides in there. It doesn't latch and it is wibbly wobbly and comes off easily. Is this the case with you all? The only thing that could potentially prevent it from dropping out is the filament going through it. Is that normal, or you guys hvae done something cleby shah123 - General Mendel Topics
Thank you so much. That resolved all the issues. I needed to make 1st and 3rd wires, and 2nd and 4th wires as the two pairs. This even solved the issue with the Extruder motor. The cable that it worked with was faulty - had one of the wires disconnected - and that's what helped it to work, probably running on one winding I guess. Anyway, thanks a lot.by shah123 - Reprappers
Wow! That's lots of information. I will go through it. Thank you A2.by shah123 - Reprappers
I am having the most weird issue with connecting the motors. I am building my first 3D printer - the Prusa i3. I got motors and cables that attach to the motor with other end open. And I have 4-pin connector cables with other end open. I connected the corresponding wires starting from one end one after the other (they did not match in color but I made sure they are connected in order) using thby shah123 - Reprappers
Ok, great. They were packed separate from the rest of the rods, so I missed them. Is that little plastic tubing supposed to be used as coupling? The manual doesn't show it.by shah123 - General Mendel Topics
Hi all, Helpful post. I am going through the pain of putting the Prusa i3x together. I have already overcome several problems I have encountered. But I don't know how I solve this one. I think they have sent me M8 threaded rods instead of M5. My threaded rods are no different in diameter than the smooth ones. And the holes in the x axis plastic pieces for z axis rods are much smaller thanby shah123 - General Mendel Topics