No ideas?by ChrisT88 - Firmware - Marlin
Finally got it working perfectly but it seems the micro SD files only update once @ boot. If I remove the SD card, update a file then replace it no files show up on the display. If I reboot with the SD card inserted and select a file it prints just fine but rebooting everytime I install the SD card is not ideal.by ChrisT88 - Firmware - Marlin
False alarm guys, I got it figured out. Found some code that looked updated vs mine so I edited line 218 and 227 with: #if BOTH(EEPROM_SETTINGS, IIC_BL24CXX_EEPROM) EEPROM is enabled now and the encoder and button seem to function fine, all menus are visible as well. Thanks again guys.by ChrisT88 - Firmware - Marlin
QuoteDust The warnings are a concern. The variable is a char ie 0-255 but the case is looking for negative numbers as well. The fix is in dwin.h I have created a PR to fix this Only 1 warning remains, Marlin/src/lcd/dwin/e3v2/dwin.cpp:500:71: warning: use of 'auto' in parameter declaration only available with '-fconcepts' 500 | inline bool Apply_Encoder(const ENCODER_DiffState &encoby ChrisT88 - Firmware - Marlin
Thanks I found it in src/HAL/AVR/inc. I also found another guy who was able to use the TFT serial RX/TX and it looks like there are some files being included in the latest updates so I think eventually we will see EXP1 used for encoder/beep and the display serial for data transfer enabled by default for DWIN displays. I just downloaded the latest nightly Marlin to see what all has been merged forby ChrisT88 - Firmware - Marlin
QuoteChwal Hi, To answer your first question, have a look at the table above with serial 3. The def uart 3 P4 is activating both 28 and 29. Maybe recheck you routing ? I’m not home but I’ll check when I come back in 2 weeks and let you know if I find more advice. Wishing you a nice day ! Thanks for the reply. I think I understand, it's automatically using the next pin for tx/rx. So far I haby ChrisT88 - Firmware - Marlin
Forgot to mention I have "#define DWIN_CREALITY_LCD" enabled in configuration.h as well.by ChrisT88 - Firmware - Marlin
I have one of these I would like to get working with a SKR 1.4 using the same wifi pins. I see where you used #define LPC_PINCFG_UART3_P4_28 which I assume is P4.28 but I don't see where you used P4_29? Right now I have the red and orange wire cut from the EXP1 plug with connectors added and the rest of EXP1 wires plugged into the EXP1 socket on the board. It's my assumption/understanding thatby ChrisT88 - Firmware - Marlin
I uploaded a design and never had it show up in "my designs". It never did show up in the search function either but I did save the page and it still shows up but only if you view the link directly.by ChrisT88 - General
Was a bad wire on probe sensor. Thanks anyways guys.by ChrisT88 - Firmware - Marlin
Just hooking up a Bltouch I believe its a smart v1 never used till now. I am sending M401 and the probe deploys, retracts then deploys a final time and never retracts. I send M999 then M402 and it retracts but it always throws the error during M402. Here is the error: READ: Error:!! STOP called because of BLTouch error - restart with M999 READ: X:35.00 Y:78.00 Z:12.50 E:0.00 Count X:11200 Y:312by ChrisT88 - Firmware - Marlin
Looks like 3+ years later and things have come full circle with the Sherpa and Sherpa Mini. Just researching my options on a new printer and found out the community is finally catching up with us! I personally like the looks of the Orbiter/Galileo but may also try the Sherpa's. My biggest issue is finding steppers that run cool. I find some that run absolutely cold and have plenty of torque anby ChrisT88 - Mechanics
I have been following the Ultimaker and Zortrax for some time and noticed quite good prints consistently coming from both. Each appears to have a well built Z which obviously helps with layer alignment but I also believe there may be something to the gantry. Now the Zortrax went with a dual linear rod for each axis but I have been wondering, what about a MGN9 or 12 linear rail for each axis? Haby ChrisT88 - General
I built a Kossel about three years ago and loved it. Awhile back I built a bowden based CoreXY and so far haven't gotten the finish results the Kossel is capable of. After running the CoreXY for awhile I realized the size and design didn't lend itself to running bowden quite as well requiring twice the tubing length as before. I am just now finishing a test run using a round variant Nema 14(sameby ChrisT88 - Mechanics
I just wanted to say that I totally agree the J-head MK V-BV is better than the E3D v6 when printing PLA in regard to print quality, at least in my case it was. Now the E3D Lite6 is a step forward IMO and both have qualities the other does not. Looking at the two you would automatically assume the E3D is far superior and I believe for this reason and the fact that it can safely print over 240-250by ChrisT88 - General
Quotethe_digital_dentist Maybe you haven't been here for long and haven't noticed that people are extremely resistant to paying any more than $300 (or is it down to $250 now?) for an entire 3D printer. They don't care how well it works, as long as it's cheap. Good luck getting anyone to pay for milling services, let alone shipping stuff to you and back. If you want to make corner plates, motorby ChrisT88 - General
I am starting a large 2040 Openbuilds based delta(270-400mm bed, not sure yet) which started me thinking I haven't seen anyone offering precision machined cuts for aluminum extrusion. I know most builds can be done with pretty much any saw but after looking back on my CoreXY C-Bot build and the trouble I experienced getting the frame square s due to the poor cuts I figured there has to be othersby ChrisT88 - General
Elegant design. I love the size, plush end stops, linear rails ect. Would like to see a small kit of the harder to find metal pieces you custom made!by ChrisT88 - CoreXY Machines
Thanks guys but the Kapton alone has been working for print adhesion, my issue was getting the Kapton style bed heater to stick to the glass. I ended up using some Artic Alumina but on another forum a great suggestion was to use 3M 467MP available here: I ended up going with the Artic Alumina simply because I had it here and the 3M 467MP is quite expensive. Quotelunarkingdom I used to havby ChrisT88 - General
My borosillicate glass chipped while cooling down after printing with ABS so I recently flipped the glass and started printing ABS on Kapton which is working great and should save my glass from chipping ever again. My problem now is the Kapton style bed heater has lost most of it's adhesion so I'm looking to find something similar to the 3M adhesion glue it originally came with. The closest thby ChrisT88 - General
Running a Azteeg X5 Mini with Smoothieware on a Kossel Mini and really like it so far. Haven't tried using Z-Probe yet but compared to Repetier and Marlin my prints are night and day. The Azteeg X5 Mini can also handle a heated bed without relay(although I plan to switch to one anyways) and updating the firmware & parameter values is as easy as opening a text file on my PC, changing a few INIby ChrisT88 - Delta Machines
Quotedc42 First, you don't need to use borosilicate glass to print ABS or PLA. Ordinary float glass is ok. Just be careful not to give it too much thermal shock, for example don't heat the bed heater to 110C for ABS printing and then put a cold glass bed on it. Second, if the print sticks to the glass too well, wait until it has cooled fully before trying to remove it. If necessary, put it in thby ChrisT88 - Delta Machines
I really like the looks of this extruder design even though I'm pretty happy with mine(stock geared Kossel Mini extruder) I'm never satisfied. I'm currently seeing 60mm/second retracts, have you checked yours to find your extruders limit? I usually run about 4.7mm of retract, anymore and I start seeing the width of seams increase on say a vase being printed without vase mode enabled increase. Whby ChrisT88 - Delta Machines
My first printer was a Da Vinci 1.0 and while it was almost perfect as a printer and a bargin for the price it had way too much slop in the tray to ever deliver the quality I wanted. After the Da Vinci I picked up a Printrbot Simple Metal and it got me much closer to the quality I was looking for but the bed wasn't heated or glass like the Da Vinci and after rigging something up I still wasn't haby ChrisT88 - Delta Machines
QuoteTimoM Try to print something with vase mode in Slic3r, You'll be amazed! Printed a square tonight in vase mode and while the layers look great the corners are kinda rounded still. It was much worse with my LCD connected and enabled in Marlin so I'm hoping the Azteeg X5 mini I ordered today will fix the issue. Hopefully I made the right decision. I was really torn between a arduino due wby ChrisT88 - Delta Machines
Been having some issues while tuning my Kossel with 20mm x 20mm calibration squares but found that there are some excellent qualities like round objects and flat surfaces that excel compared to my other Cartesian printers. Here are some examples(still tuning the retract to reduce the seam): It's difficult to photograph something that isn't there, such as no z banding! Printed with 1.75 Aby ChrisT88 - Delta Machines
QuoteAndyCart QuoteChrisT88 Just realized it's #define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER that controls the z height. Is there a g code command to adjust this or is the only way by editing and re-uploading the fimware? Hi Chris It depends on which version of Marlin. If you use Rich Cattell's version then M666 Pnn.n will do it for you. Andy Thanks Andy, exactly the information I was looking for. Seby ChrisT88 - Delta Machines
Just realized it's #define Z_PROBE_OFFSET_FROM_EXTRUDER that controls the z height. Is there a g code command to adjust this or is the only way by editing and re-uploading the fimware?by ChrisT88 - Delta Machines
Finally to the point where I'm able to print on my Kossel Mini so I decided to enable auto level. I'm used to my cartesian style printers that utilize M212 for adjusting the Z height for layer adhesion but can't find any information about it on the Delta printers. I tried using M666 and while that works for non auto level setups it seems to have no affect once the bed leveling is enabled. It sby ChrisT88 - Delta Machines
Fixed the extrusion distance issue. I swapped the stepper driver out with a new spare I had. Still get the dip in tone and as I looked closely it seems to happen at least 2-3 times a rotation but it's very difficult to hear it on the extruder. I can easily hear and see it on the X, Y and Z axis when going from home position (250+) to G1 Z0.by ChrisT88 - Firmware - mainstream and related support