Hi guys, We are a 3D printing company based in Europe, Romania. Our top model is called Bitmi Pro. Main Features: Duet Wifi electronics Original e3d v6 hotend Rigid mecahnics, 5mm thick aluminium 5'' LCD with touchscreen Nema 17, 1.8 degree/step with up to 256 microstepping 200x200x250mm build volume area Wifi Internet connection Auto Bed Leveling function Filament Runout sensor Power outageby DOYT - For Sale
Salutare baieti! Vreau sa va arat ce s-a mai intamplat in ultima perioada prin Iasi. La Hackerspace a luat nastere Bitmi Technologies. Ne ocupam cu fabricarea de imprimante 3D profesionale FDM dar oferim si servicii de printare 3D, debitare si gravare laser. Modelul in productie ce il avem acum se cheama Bitmi Pro si este o imprimanta care este si frumoasa si desteapta. Ca si mecanica, e inzeby DOYT - Piața din centru
I did this but without any result. I just can t understand............I have tried with 4 different new SD card..... still the same result. Replace all the electronics..... still, same resultby DOYT - RAMPS Electronics
Hi guys, I have some problems with my electronics. I'm using ramps 1.4, arduino mega and LCD 2004. As you can see in the picture sometimes I got some garbage on my LCD. I have checked all the connections over an over again. I tried with 3 different LCD's but the problem still exist. I have also changed the LCD adaptor that one who is making the connection between the LCD cables and Ramps. It hby DOYT - RAMPS Electronics
So what you are telling me to do is this? (picture) Does the optical sensor run on 5V? It does not need 12V? When it's powered I know it has a red LED that is on. In my case now it's off but I'll try to connect the jumper and see if the LED gets red.by DOYT - Firmware - Marlin
I don t understand.......... why do I get in the red circle 5V when I measure with the voltmeter? it should be D4 there that means no voltage. The 5V should be in the blue circle. I followed this tutorial but my LED from the optical sensor board is not on when I plug it into the ramps. The order of the pins in this videos is the same. D4 and GND on the edges and the middle pin 5V.by DOYT - Firmware - Marlin
Hi guys. I just bought an optical sensor to enable the marlin filament runout sensor function . I use ramps 1.4. From what I know, i need to connect all three pins as following. V to V , gnd to gnd and D4 pin to signal. I have posted a picture with the Ramps 1.4 pins. But what is weird, where the circe is red, actually I get +5V instead of nothing (I have measured with a multimeter). But Red ciby DOYT - Firmware - Marlin
Because my physical print size is different than my print area. After the axis hit both X Y switch I want X go to +5mm and Y +5mm. At those values my nozzle will be exactly on the left down corner of the print bed. Otherwise will stay in the midair. What you say is exactly what I want to implement but in Marlin firmware. I don't want to do this on Custom start G-code from slicer.by DOYT - Firmware - Marlin
Hi guys. How can I setup my Marlin in order to have a specific distance of the hotend from endstops after homing? Like a X, Y offset.... I don't want my X, Y endstops to stay pressed after the second bump. Thanks!by DOYT - Firmware - Marlin
Bed Level Correction Matrix: +0.999999 +0.000000 -0.001229 -0.000006 +0.999988 -0.004905 +0.001229 +0.004905 +0.999987 X:125.00 Y:99.99 Z:3.61 E:0.00 Count A: 22560 B:2328 Z:1189 This is what I get. How do I interpret this?by DOYT - Firmware - Marlin
And the marlin bugfix v1.1.0 is moving so slow. A lag is present in the LCD menu and for example if I use the Stop print function the LCD get blank. I must hit the encoder button one more time in order to see something on LCD.by DOYT - Firmware - Marlin
My axis move in the right direction so this is not the problem. I think........i might change the place of the probe mounting. Now it's about 50mm to the right from the nozzle tip and 2 mm in the front of it. Maybe I should get it closer to the nozzle. And I'm not sure but my probe seems to be not exactly perpendicular to the bed. It's slightly off..........Can this be a cause of my problem?by DOYT - Firmware - Marlin
I tried ABL liniar, biliniar, 3 points, UBL, MBL, nothing is working. Where the nozzle should go down it goes up and reverse. I used marlin bugfix v1.1.0. What's wrong? What's reversed? What more complex tests should i do in order to see where the problem is?by DOYT - Firmware - Marlin
Hi guys. I'm using Marlin RC7 and I enabled Auto Bed Leveling Grid option. I'm using a proximity sensor LJ12A3-4-ZBX and an MK3 Heated Bed. But the problem is that when the nozzle should go up it goes down and when the nozzle should go down it goes up. I have a drawing where I have show the movement of my coreXY axis. Does the assembly of my Z axis motors like on the old Mendel printers can affecby DOYT - Firmware - Marlin
Hi guys! We are live: you can back Bitmi I 3D printer and share this with your friends. Let's run a successful campaign! Early bird perks are waiting for you.by DOYT - Crowdfunding Projects Announcements
Hi, guys! My name is Ciprian and I'm the founder of Bitmi Technologies. Tuesday 05/09/2017 will be a big day for 3D printing enthusiasts and not only for them. Bitmi technologies will launch on Indiegogo Bitmi I, a portable 3D printer with the performance of a desktop one. The title of the campaign will be ,,Bitmi I. Your 3D playground in a backpack." Stay tuned! If you want to see more now, pby DOYT - Crowdfunding Projects Announcements
So from 13.55V is decreasng to 12.98 when it's drawing full current. Yeah, it's a Mean Well 25A. Well... maybe if I'll try with a performant stabilizer like you have it will be good enough to get rid of the flickers. Because as i said, I tried to improve a stabilizer with an LM7812 and some 33 microF capacitors.by DOYT - RAMPS Electronics
Ok. So I did some tests. I mount two more strips of LEDs. One on the + and - sign of the power supply and one along the supply wires that power the ramps board( I strain the wires with some needles and connect one strip of LEDs there) Now...... something strange happend. During the preheat and after, the LED strips from the Vin from ramps, and the one that was connected with needles on the powerby DOYT - RAMPS Electronics
Ramps 1.4, Marlin RC 7, and the same endswitch as the ultimachine use for their minirambo board.by DOYT - Reprappers
What does it mean shiznit? )) So your advice is to use the same thermistor for my bed as e3d use for their hotend?by DOYT - Mechanics
Yeah... I got it. My bowden tube is 50cm long and I can't cut it shorter than this is my system. Thaks for advices. And by the way, I decrease the numbers of perimeters from 4 to 2 and I get a better result.by DOYT - Printing
I use an original e3dv6 and I never printed with 195. I have a bowden tube setup and it will make too muck pressure on it and the extruder will skip. I'll tight up the idler on the shaft and see what i get. How can I avoid irregular pressure inside the tube in this case? I'm thinking that maybe the extruder spring also is not tight up correctly so the extruder gear slips slowly on the filament anby DOYT - Printing
Hehe.... I see. You are smart. What I did was to create a 12V stabilizer with LM7812, some condensers and a diode. And connect the LED's at the output of this stabilizer. The input on the stabilizer is 13.5 because I increase the voltage on my power supply and the output is 12V. But......surprise.... the problem persist.by DOYT - RAMPS Electronics
Hi guys! I wired on my machine some LED strip ~20cm. I power them with cables that are soldered directly on the Vin of the ramps board. I don't know why but when I heat my printer or start printing my LEDs flick continuously. My printer has a 12V 25A mean well power supply so I don't think this is the problem. If my printer is in stand by mode, they don't flick. Could be this a problem of voltageby DOYT - RAMPS Electronics
Sliced with Cura 2.3.0 0.2mm resolution 100%Flow 0.4 mm nozzle, 4 perimeters 10% infill with 10% overlap 205/55 degree, PLA Z seam alignment: back Devil design brand new spool 1.75mm filament. So, what could be the problem?by DOYT - Printing
I don't know why but every time my bed is all the way down and I hit the home button, Y axis is not homing at all at min position. I have an CoreXY mechanics machine. The problem persist after every print finish. But if I hit twice the home button the second time is working. It could be a connection problem? Thanks.by DOYT - Reprappers
How driver voltage can affect the extrusion? By having a small amount of voltage drop on it and this translate that the extruder does not have enough force to push the filament? I use A4988 drivers and it's set to 0.65V. How can I set extrusion width in Cura 15.04.3? I can't see this setting.by DOYT - Printing
Hi. I'm using Cura 2.3.0 and I'm using an original E3dV6 hotend with 0.4mm nozzle. When I slice the model with 0.2mm layer height the print came out perfect and I don't have problems with the extruder. But if I change the setting from 0.2 to 0.1mm layer height the extruder start to skip steps. Is trying to push too much filament like the 0.2 mm setting is still there. Is there something else i neby DOYT - Printing
Hi. I have a 3D printer without enclosure equiped with an MK3 Alu Heat Bed. My preheat values for ABS are 230/90 and when I preheat the 3D printer there's no problem keeping the temperature fixed. But when I start printing my bed temp goes down til 85 sometimes and then rise up slowly again till 90. And this happend for about the first 7 minutes on the print. I'm using an Mean Well 320 12V 25A wiby DOYT - Mechanics