As nophead says, 185 degrees is very cool - 210 is a good point to start. If this is not the problem, it could be that there is a blockage in the nozzle. Odd bits of swarf or other contamination can fall into the nozzle during assembly, or eve bi ni the filament. Mikeby leadinglights - Reprappers
I am starting on the build of a third printer and have purchased some LM8UU bearings at a low price - £7.95 for 12. However, on receiving them they are loose on an accurate 8mm shaft and the oil seals have a visible gap to the shaft. A pair that I got from another supplier are tight and feel lumpy. As I have used 18 on my existing Prusa and Rostock printers and have found the quality to be exceby leadinglights - Reprappers
Naturally I will refer to nophead's blog, but what would be good though is to find some of the posts - many from nophead - that I skimmed over when I was busy building my original printers and was more interested in just getting them working. Now is the time to strive for perfection. Baby-boomers were bought up in the days when man was landing on the moon and making things was good, but you hadby leadinglights - Developers
Nope, me pretty quick learner, dab hand at construction too. Not too great at guessing how much force filament needs to go through an extruder, how fast an X Carriage will accelerate with a given stepper - and oh so many more.by leadinglights - Developers
I am about to do some redesign on my Prusa printer and am looking for info which would help me with the design. Initially I want to redesign the X Carriage and the Extruder for the best compromise or mass and rigidity. To this end, what I need is pointers to posts in this or other forums where these are discussed. I have seen posts like that before, but am unable to locate them. Blogs by experianby leadinglights - Developers
I stumbled on this thread while looking for "adhesion" as I am having problems with my prints sticking down - problems that I thought I had well solved many months ago. On ABS I used 50mm wide Kapton tape on a glass bed at 105 degrees - which I had found to be noticeably better than 100 degrees or 110 degrees. Having run out of 50mm wide tape I bought a 200mm wide Kapton tape - which is a huge dby leadinglights - Printing
O.K. I think that I have solved it. The "Mountains" were crater rims , the most damaging ones were where there were sharp - like 180 degree turns -the firmware threw in a short pause and this allowed the heat fro the nozzle to melt a small well in the print. Although the effect was tiny, it built up layer after layer and, after a while, the nozzle started picking up PLA from the crater rim andby leadinglights - General
Nope, the filament is nice and even, 1.7mm +- 0.05mm. I have had some success by droping the temperature - I had only tried increasing it as the extruder was stalling at my initial setting. Whether this has stopped the nozzle jamming on the print will have to wait for this print to finish, but it looks promising. Mikeby leadinglights - General
Taking another brief look at this, I see that each "Mountain" is more like a crater with a raised rim. The inner part of the crater is actually below the level of the layer and seems to be melted out. The most prominent crags appear where the nozzle does a reversal of direction with a thin inner perimeter and another close edge - as in the picture Topview.jpg in my earlier post. The nozzle seemsby leadinglights - General
I am trying to print a new X end for my Prusa but am getting large blobs on some corners which are mechanically snagging the nozzle and causing missed steps. I am printing this (Improved X ends for Prusa with clamped rods by jonaskuehling) on a Rostock in PLA and this problem doesn't exist on the first few layers, or after about layer 20. The mountains are on the sharpest bends and are about 0.6mby leadinglights - General
Hi Davide, The timings I made, along with looking at other things that I printed make this look a prime candidate. I will try to cut the time down tomorrow and bring the cooling on line - at the moment it is only using the exhaust from the heatsink. Very many thanks, Mikeby leadinglights - Repetier
I am having problems with the perimeter speeds on my Rostock printer using Slicer running under Repetier. Perimeter speeds on a hollow shell, the Tiki statue by Cerberus333 I get an outer perimeter speed of 8.75mm/sec and an inner perimeter speed of 12.1mm/sec although the perimeter speed is set to 80mm/sec On the second and third layers, where there is solid infill, the achieved perimeter speedby leadinglights - Repetier
Hi NumberSix, I must admit to being delighted with the finish myself. One of the vases had a lot of finer than hair sized hairs on it, I had to hold it in the sunlight to see them; but otherwise no cleaning of visible parts. Invisible parts were a different matter. The supports had to be filed as well as sanded from the bottom of Socrates' beard and from his plinth - which is not parallel to thby leadinglights - Look what I made!
I have recently completed my Rostock printer and have spent several days trying to get the quality up. Finally, a decent print. The time was taken up by my failure to believe that the bowden tube extruder needed 8mm of retraction. Mikeby leadinglights - Look what I made!
I think that I have found my error. After repairing you have to remove the old object before exporting the repaired STL code. I won't have a chance to try the repaired code today but will try tomorrow. I will investigate the cloud service as well since many of my projects have minor problems that I have lived with to date. Thanks, Mikeby leadinglights - Reprappers
I recently got a 3D scan from 3DSky and tried to convert it from the .obj file to a .stl and thence to a .gcode and print it out. The problem that I am getting is that there seem to be errors in the .stl that Nettfabb Studio Basic does not repair. The result is that there are areas where a layer repeats itself several times before going back to where it should be. This error is visible in the GCOby leadinglights - Reprappers
Has anybody got a site (or a book, I would pay with real money) which has the organised knowladge of FFF printing. The sort of thing I am thinking about would assume that the printer is already built (or even purchased) and concentrate on the printing process. Sections with diagnoses of the illnesses of prints (collywobbles, leprosy, obesity, measles) and of printers (z-axis wobble, layer slip,by leadinglights - General
1.75mm in both ABS and PLA. The only real reason is that my own design hotend is a thing of beauty and wonderous performance in 1.75mm, but a failure and disgrace in 3mm. I have several unused rolls of 3mm filament languishing until I have time for a total redesign of the 3mm hot end. Mikeby leadinglights - General
Excelent, that fixed it - many thanks Mikeby leadinglights - Repetier
I have set the default printbed temperature to 110C, but when i start the printbed heater the targer value resets to 100C. I can set the temperature to 110 now, and this target is shown on the temperature graph, but the temperature does not go above 100C. The knee on the graph is quite sharp - showing the the heater and power supply are capable of more. Looking at the voltage across the heater itby leadinglights - Repetier
The tube for the filament is only 2mm bore - too small to carry the even the small amount of air that I think is needed. Also, PTFE is more expensive than silicone.by leadinglights - Reprappers
The problem that I am working on is that you only need cooling to stop the plastic from flowing, surface tension pulls out the fine detail of the model. The cooling should be no more than absolutely necessary - and applied locally.. Even 1 CFM is likely to be much more than needed. Any tube with a pressure inside tries to straighten itself and larger diameters make it stiffer - so small diametby leadinglights - Reprappers
I am starting to do some trials on this idea, It looks like 10L/min is still too far much flow. At the moment I am trying to measure the local flow with a self heated thermistor to get a value of cooling that is about the same as I get from a fan that I know does a good job. I am using the exhaust air from a fan cooling the heatsink on my hot end for some background cooling with two brass tubes dby leadinglights - Reprappers
I was looking for rod ends and came across the Igus ones - which I assumend would be megabucks, but m3 rod ends come out at about £1.73 each in 25 off quantities - much cheaper than metal ones and not a big jump more than RC car rod ends. Has anybody tried them? any opinions?by leadinglights - Delta Machines
Lazzymonk asked what size tube I wanted to use. At the moment I don't know, only a gut feeling that it should be as thin as practical so that it was both flexible and the bourden tube effect (where pressure tries to straighten the tube) will be minimised. My experiance with cooling is that you should us enough to cool the extruded plastic so that it stops moving - but no more. My present Prusa pby leadinglights - Reprappers
That centrifugal fan will be able to push more air through a pipe than a standard axial one. I think that one with very deep blades would do splendidly, but I haven't found where to get such a thingby leadinglights - Reprappers
Has anybody tried to use an air pump to deliver air to the region of the extruder nozzle? The reason I ask is that I have almost finished my Rostock printer and am hoping to avoid having any extra weight of a fan on the print head. Air delivered through a thin walled silicone tube to precisely where it is wanted should fit the bill. Additional info: 40mm fans deliver about 60L/min of air, but whby leadinglights - Reprappers
Thanks, that did it - I will have to remember to think first before going into auto - change boards mode. One question though, where can I find the documentation on the firmware? Thanks again, Mikeby leadinglights - Repetier
Printer = Rostock, Repetier Firmware = 0.81 Board = Arduino Mega2560/Ramps1.4 Computer = Windows XP (also Ubuntu) Arduino = 1.0.3 on windows and 1.0.4 on Ubuntu I have got as far as getting all axis moving in the right direction, but am getting twice as much movement as is needed. Obviously the steps per revolution in Configuration.h needed changing from 200 to 400, but no luck. Then I couldn'tby leadinglights - Repetier
A quick report that Arduino 1.0.4 with Repetier Firmware 0.81 seems O.K.. The sketch compiles without complaint and uploads to an Arduino Mega board. I haven't been able to test it yet - but none of the previous behaviours have happened. The arduino was downloaded and extracted with the archive manager and the executable was called in a terminal. Presumabbly all of the dependancied from the 1.0.by leadinglights - Repetier