QuoteFloyd I thought you had to place: G28 G29 Is this right? It should do a normal home then do the ABL home on the Z. I'm not talking about the auto bed leveling, I'm using the new mesh bed leveling. I used to use ABL and your sequence is correct for that, but with mesh bed leveling, there is no use of the probe. You have to manually set all the points in the grid and then they get stored iby brucehvn - Firmware - Marlin
I've just put on Marlin 1.1.0-RC6 and setup the mesh bed leveling. I went through the steps and got the bed all situated and I'm really happy with the results. I'm not sure I understand, however, all the things that will cause Marlin to deactivate mesh bed leveling and then how to get it back short of a reboot or emergency stop command. I've figured out that as long as I only home via a plainby brucehvn - Firmware - Marlin
QuoteWZ9V I you might want to put a thermometer on the PEI plate because you may not be getting the entire 100C at the surface. I like to use a multimeter thermocouple to see what my actual surface temp is and then adjust accordingly. Based on readings with an infrared thermometor, the surface is about 8-10 degrees cooler than the reported thermistor temperature. I think that's why some peopleby brucehvn - Printing
Since my last post, I've printed probably about 30 different parts, the biggest of which was 120mm x 65mm and I've had absolutely no warping using the last thing I was trying, which is the bed at 100C and light bulbs pointed at the build surface. I clean the PEI with alcohol after every print and I see no signs of any buildup or residue. Once the bed cools, the parts just come right off, rarelyby brucehvn - Printing
Definitely your bridging settings have to be in order. I've found by printing Triffid Hunter's bridge torture test, I have to slow down my speed to 12mm/s and my bridge flow ratio to .87. It took a lot of trial and error to come up with that. A fan might help as well, but I don't have a fan. The bridging settings have really slowed down my print times because at least Slic3r considers the firby brucehvn - Printing
Ok, so here are the next parts I printed on the PEI. This time I kept with my 100C bed temperature, but also used the 100W bulbs to heat the platform from the top. These two pieces printed really good except for one minor glitch. If we look at the bottom of the pulley bracket, we see on the end of one of the arms, we got just a smidge of warping. Seeing this in the profile view, it is easilby brucehvn - Printing
Printing the pulley bracket at the same settings of 100C for the bed temperature again resulted in a part that at first glance looked fine. However, inspecting the underside of the part, we can again see some minor warping: On this part, looking at the profile view, it's a little easier to see the warping, but again not a deal breaker for using the part. Sigh. So the next step is to try turby brucehvn - Printing
With the bed temp turned up to 100C, I attempted to print out the motor mount piece again. This time it turned out much better and at first glance showed no signs of warping. However, because the bottom of the print is so smooth, you can actually see any imperfections. Looking at the bottom of the print we can see this: So, there actually was a slight warping, but in looking at the profileby brucehvn - Printing
The new motor mount has two arms that attach to the motor in sort of a horse shoe fashion. Feeling cocky about the small pieces I had printed on the PEI up until now, I started this printing only to get OOPS Ok, well that knocked me off my high horse. Reading some other users experiences, it seemed when they had problems with warping, they would try increasing the bed temp. I decided to tryby brucehvn - Printing
I had to re-calibrate my z-probe offset for the new material. Up until about 3 weeks ago, I was using the standard servo controlled micro switch based probing arm for ABL, but then switched out to an Omrom EE-SPY402 optical sensor that is fixed to try and gain more accuracy. I could do a whole other posting on that and probably will at some point. So because there is a difference in the reflecby brucehvn - Printing
I've just decided to try printing using a PEI sheet on my build surface. Thought I would document my results and findings. I have an i3 derivative that I built about 2+ years ago. I've printed only ABS in that time. What I had settled on that worked pretty much about 95% of the time without warping is: Bed surface is home depot mirror tiles cut to fit the standard heated bed. Tile held downby brucehvn - Printing
I've got a weird problem I haven't seen before. I'm starting a new roll of ABS filament. It's Shaxon brand from Fry's Electronics. I haven't used it before and I see mixed reviews of it. Some people seem to think it's fine, others say it's crap. This printer has been in service now for about a year and a half, so I've done many prints on it. Anyway, I've been trying to get things calibratedby brucehvn - Printing
It appears the issue did have to do with the Z offset for the ABL probe. While I checked it a few days ago and it seemed to be right on, when I went to do a manual bed leveling, I found the Z offset to be off by about .42mm. It's possible my micro switch may be a little wonky because it does seem to fluctuate a little bit, but now my prints are back to the normal height.by brucehvn - Printing
Forgot to mention that both Cura 15.04 and Slic3r 1.2.9a give me this issue. I also upgraded to the latest Marlin hoping it might make a difference, but it didn't. Bruceby brucehvn - Printing
I built an i3 variant a little over a year ago and have been using it ever since. I've noticed that my prints are now not coming out at the proper Z height. It was losing about .25mm per 10mm of height meaning I print something 10mm high and it comes out about 9.75mm. I was printing at .25mm layer height and switched to the more exact (per the calculator) .2480, but that didn't help. The prinby brucehvn - Printing
The build instructions for the i3x and i3xl are the same file. There are only minor differences between the two printers. Did you get those instructions from their website? I have a copy of them if you didn't get them but it is too large to attach here. PM me and I can send it via email. Communication with them seems to vary. Sometimes they do get back to you in a reasonable amount of timeby brucehvn - General
Quotecfeniak Well, after H-bot.... I went core XY! Should of heeded the warnings Here is my build: Core XY on Open Builds You can see a picture of my original H-Bot in the discussion forum. Hard to tell from the photos, but could you elaborate on how the z-axis is constructed? I see the two motors with the 8mm threaded rod (are these OpenBuilds leadscrews?) on one side. Is the other side oby brucehvn - CoreXY Machines
Unless you are probing a lot of points, I'm not sure I see what the advantage is. You still have to wait for the hot end to heat up in most cases. For me, the auto level probes 4 points but the hot end has started heating while the probes are being done. After probing, it starts printing within about 30 seconds. I think the whole probing process takes less than 90 seconds for me.by brucehvn - General
I agree with Floyd. I print at 115c bed temperature for the first layer, then let it go down to 85 for the remaining print which seems to help with warping. Different filament will have different properties with regards to the hotend temperature needed and possibly the bed temp as well.by brucehvn - Printing
QuoteJoe2014 So do I need the z axis endstop at all? Could you possibly link me to that thread? Thanks. Here is the thread. The probe for the auto bed level essentially becomes your z endstop. However, some people for the sake of safety keep the z endstop as a failsafe just in case something happens and the probe doesn't work and isn't available to stop the z movement.by brucehvn - General
Mods, can we do something about this person spamming the forums? Obviously an unhappy customer, but posting the same post in every thread here is too much.by brucehvn - General
I've never had good luck printing ABS on plain glass. I've used hairspray which worked well until I started printing large objects which warped. I switched to purple elmers glue stick and it works really good as long as there's a good coating of it on the glass. Once you have a good layer of glue on the glass, you can just keep adding more where you did the last print. Eventually if it startsby brucehvn - Printing
Slic3r has a section in the configuration for turning on support and some settings for that. It will automatically calculate where support is needed, however, I've had little luck with it the few times I've tried it. The support is usually difficult to separate from the object. Some people also incorporate the support into the design as an alternative. Most slicers support support. Cura doesby brucehvn - General
With the extruder cold, the gap between the bed and the nozzle should be about .1mm which happens to be the thickness of a normal sheet of paper. Some people use paper, some use feeler gauges.by brucehvn - Reprappers
If you wanted to use the EEPROM, you do the M502 to reload your settings from configuration.h, then you need to do a M500 to save them to EEPROM. You have to do both steps.by brucehvn - General Mendel Topics
No, I was talking about filing the bottom of the extruder body, not anything on the hotend itself.by brucehvn - Printing
Yes, the six pins underneath each driver are for 3 jumpers. Since you are set for full steps, but your steps per mm is set for 1/16 stepping, that would cause the axis to try and move much further than it's supposed to.by brucehvn - Reprappers
Under the stepper drivers on the RAMPS board, there are places for 3 jumpers. To enable 1/16 microstepping, you need to put three jumpers for each stepper driver.by brucehvn - Reprappers
Usually you can define the bed dimensions in your slicer and host software. I'm not familiar with Pronterface, only Repetier Host, but under the printer settings, it allows you to set the bed dimensions. In your slicer also, you should have settings to do the same. Once you've set those correctly (and restarted Pronterface), you should not be able to move past the point you specified. So forby brucehvn - Reprappers
The first extruder body that came with the printer was warped on the bottom (not the part that would have been contacting the bed when it was printed though?) and I had to file a lot just to get the little brass to fit in there. They sent me a replacement which was better. In both cases, though, I didn't see the issue you are describing.by brucehvn - Printing