Hi, I'm wondering about any features stated in the title above, can anyone point me out where should I look for this info actually?by sarf2k4 - General
erm... how do I do that actually by supplying into the vin? it is blocked by the rampsby sarf2k4 - Safety & Best Practices
Ninjaflex have them by the way from their online catalog I seeby sarf2k4 - General
I can only suggest you to rummage those other files like marlin.cpp or marlin.c, I'm sure it's somewhere within those .cpp/.c files and comment them out laterby sarf2k4 - General
QuoteSlowFoot Mostly I use Meshmixer by Autodesk. Free, good editing of STL files, easy to add custom support and fun to play around with when you get bored. I tried to repair this model using meshmixer turned out to be the slot sizes shrank after the print. I thought it was slic3r problem but it wasn't. The original model got some holes on the front tentacle making slic3r unable to slice thatby sarf2k4 - Printing
As for me, I'm going to try out the clipping mechanisms too, my first one was honeycomb stacks which turned out to be okay after 3 times of adjustment of the gaps. Turned out to be a gap of around 0.5 is good, and I tried to make another same concept with slightly larger honeycomb stacks, surprised it's somewhat loose. So my guess is for small parts like 2-5mm size is around 0.5 gap/tolerance whiby sarf2k4 - Printing
QuoteGeorgeFu These days,I had been working on auto bed leveling.And I found that the height between the nozzle and the bed always change when it printing the first layer.Is it the problem of the trembling servo when bed leveling?Anyone got answer? Is your servo jerking/trembling when it goes into position? If it does, you should use the servo power down feature. As for me, it will be slow by adby sarf2k4 - General
I don't know how to make a voltage regulator to be honest, so far my electronic has print fan, extruder fan, servo connected on d9 output, 12v supply next to x axis stepstick and servo at the bottom next to reset buttonby sarf2k4 - Safety & Best Practices
Quotetjmorrow Hi, my name is travis, I had that same issue when activating a servo on by 3d printher. I solved it by supplying the positive and negative connection to the servo with it's own power supply. Servos use quite a bit of power i used a 6v 3a power supply and connected straight to servo with signal wire connected to pin 11 of my ramps 1.4 and I have not had any problems. Currently Iby sarf2k4 - General
Mine is 12v system by the way and it's presoldered. I don't dare to resolder the connection because of my soldering skills aren't that great 100'c is quite low for abs and will come off anytime below that pointby sarf2k4 - Printing
I didn't flip the heated bed upside down because the wire are soldered underneath the bed, but last time I did shift the thermistor to the center hole of the heated bed instead of being taped down underneath the bed (previously by supplier) and taped it using kapton tape. I did try to put cardboard underneath it, having the bed positioned at y max, but that time I didn't turn on the bed pid yetby sarf2k4 - Printing
I did autotune and finally the bed able to reach up to 110'c with a little bit slow, with the bed positioned in front of the printer/Y max pos with medium ceiling fan speed, it failed due to timeout and I restarted again and it's done with the new values. When I try to print one of the small objects, with auto cooling + always on at 25% min, the bed drops as low as around 100'c, the fan turnedby sarf2k4 - Printing
Can you provide more info on this? eeprom settings, slicer speed settings?by sarf2k4 - Prusa i3 and variants
Increase the current in stepstick by turning clockwise on potentiometer on it, don't turn it a lot, because the current are quite sensitive to slight turn, this might help, also try to loosen the extruder tension springby sarf2k4 - Prusa i3 and variants
Okay, it's actually dependent on the motherboard you choose, D9 actually can be either for second hotend or print fan that has pwm. for extruder fan, just hook it to either 12v input terminal (not the one 10A input based on the ramps diagram). Mine got almost everything hooked up, hotend fan at 12v output to the left of x axis stepstick, print fan at D9 controlled by pwm from gcode generated by sby sarf2k4 - Prusa i3 and variants
Could you provide picture, and some other information such as hot end type you're using and specs?by sarf2k4 - Prusa i3 and variants
That must be the initial layer being too high, try doing some z axis calibration againby sarf2k4 - Prusa i3 and variants
Okay, I will try again, with my bed in front where its most likely having trouble reaching 110'c tonightby sarf2k4 - Printing
Yes, because you already have them. I do remember that there were posts by richard himself modifying code or something by using 0-360' degree angle (I forgot). There's also colour mixing thread in reprap forum here, try googling "richrap colour mixing"by sarf2k4 - Prusa i3 and variants
Basically you wanted to have colour mixing feature, can try to start from here, a project back in 2012by sarf2k4 - Prusa i3 and variants
I often do temp test before as well but I realized that time temp calibration are somewhat useless and it depends on the objects 195'c is quite low for abs but then again I saw one filament brand, haruta 3d, their filaments for abs and pla has a low melting point, do check their brand. I almost get their abs before but too fishy because their abs temp range are maxed at 230'c from datasheet. I gby sarf2k4 - Printing
What slicer program did you use? Your issue reminded me of an attempt to print a landscape with zortrax and it became spaghetti at that exact layer and point. tested it 3 times all the same but I didn't slice a new zcode though because I thought it was the machine's hot end issue or the 3d model but it printed fine on my friend's and my printer. I haven't tried to print the same model since theby sarf2k4 - Printing
Thank you for feedback, I enabled the pid and used the autotune at 60'c 8 cycles, values are somewhat close to before, and it's having hard time to reach 110'c when the bed is infront so I always put the bed at the back of the printer because it's shielded from stray wind from ceiling fan @Putzer, I last night tried to print another of my printer parts but decided to increase to 260'c, the resulby sarf2k4 - Printing
I think a spring from any cheap pen would do, but I doubt its strengths. Can refer to mine here and just ignore those sketches, it was meant to be on other thread. As for mine, I replaced the orange rosette to this thing here so that I don't have to use 2 hand to screw itby sarf2k4 - Prusa i3 and variants
Okay, I'll enable the bed pid later tonight. What about the bed pid autotune, should I do the autotune before enabling the pid or after? If after, what initial pid value should I use for autotune? The pid value there were the autotune value returned but with bed pid disabled (I think) in the past. Seeing how the value were, it looked like somewhat extremely high value. I'm not an electrical anby sarf2k4 - Printing
Now I'm confused, I don't think I ever enabled bed pid in the first place. One reason I never tried to fiddle with bed because of high current involved on heating up the bed Here is my config.h hope someone can guide me on thisby sarf2k4 - Printing
I suppose I didn't supply enough info electronic 29A 12V psu ramps 1.4 e3d v6 tower pro sg9 servo 2004 lcd panel My printer placed on living room, underneath the ceiling (not directly under it). Last night I tried turning off the ceiling fan, nozzle is 2mm above bed positioned at the center, fan were set to full while bed heating up, it couldn't reach to 110'c. I tried using a small cardboardby sarf2k4 - Printing
what is the size of your z axis screw/leadscrew/threaded rods? if possible some specs of the rod might help Usually banding occurs when you tried to use non-optimal layer height paired with the leadscrew/threaded rods, I'm sure you already know this If not about non-optimal layer height, what about previous prints using other filament brands?by sarf2k4 - Printing
Can you try put some kind of light and see the layers? from what I know on banding, on specific layer the plastic somewhat 'stretched' or something, I don't know if this helps but worth a shotby sarf2k4 - Printing