MakerGeeks sells a cleaning wire. I bought one and it works pretty well. The trick is to find one small enough that also won't bend to much. You're probably on the right track with the acetone though. Give it a good soak then see if you can see through it. Maybe cut a piece of filamnet off and see if you can get it through it without to much restriction. QuoteDriftyDave Whats the best way to clby krwynn - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteDriftyDave I pulled the hot end apart. Cleaned out all the ABS bits that were in there. Tried swapping the bearing over to the left side and upping the vref to .45v. Still clicking... Everything seems fine until the filament gets into the nozzle. I'm wondering if its clogged up in there. I'm gonna take it apart again and see if I can clean it out. Yeah I think it may be partically pluby krwynn - Prusa i3 and variants
I didn't even think of a Y cable. That's the way I'll go with that. So these would be correct for the DRV8825? X is .4A - set for .32 Z is 2x .4A set for .64 Y is 1.5A - set for 1.2 Extruder is .4A - set for .32 Look ok? You didn't attach the pic you mention for the locations to check these. If you do have a pic that would be great. Thanks -Kevin QuoteZavashier You have two possibilitiesby krwynn - Prusa i3 and variants
Hi all, I just received my MKS gen 1.3 today. I'm going to use it on a new build. I just realized it only has one plug in for the Z axis motors. Do I just splice those wires together and use the one plug in? Seems logical but I want to make sure. I also bought 5 DRV8825's and am not clear after reading many topics on how to set the Vref for the motors. I keep seeing that its not the same as theby krwynn - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteDriftyDave When I use the side with the bearing it just pops loudly and will not extrude. Anything I can do to make that work? What are the chances of getting a good picture?by krwynn - Prusa i3 and variants
Sounds like it's going backwards. Make sure #define INVERT_Z_DIR true. If it's already true, try false. I had the same issue until I realized it was feeding backwardsby krwynn - Prusa i3 and variants
You need that bearing and to be on the right side at first. Its a real tight fit but it's supposed to be. Set your layer thickness for .35 for the first layer. Get it nice and mashed into the hairspray or whatever you're using. Make sure to measure your filament too as that will make a difference. if it averages 1.75 you can enter 1.73 and that will also help get things stuck together. Afer you gby krwynn - Prusa i3 and variants
Hey fellas, FYI, there was an error in the Folger directions as they said to set up like this when in actuality bed left and bed front should both be 0.by krwynn - Prusa i3 and variants
Thats the direction I'm heading. I have the Power supply and SSR. Are you staying in bang bang mode? Ive read that using PID can burn up an SSR. Quotedave3d A final follow up. I have now fitted the second 24v power supply unit to power just the bed. It is rated at 17 amps. I still use on/off control via a SSR. I adjusted the output voltage of the 24v PSU so it gives around 15 amps, just to alloby krwynn - Reprappers
I don't see a black wire in the very bottom connection (green power in block, wires that come from your power supply). Your themistor connections look weird too but I can't tell for sure because of the picture. Looks like awfully thick wires for that.by krwynn - Prusa i3 and variants
You nailed it. Looks like this is an issue: commands get messed at the end of print job Quotedc42 OK, looks like your the firmware running on your printer electronics has a bug then. It should wait for existing moves to complete before executing any commands that will disrupt them, other than M112 (Emergency Stop).by krwynn - Reprappers
Using Marlin 1.0.2. Haven't touched anything other than configuration.h Surprised more people aren't throwing a fit. It appears though that a lot of people are still running the old version from Folger though. Quotedc42 OK, looks like your the firmware running on your printer electronics has a bug then. It should wait for existing moves to complete before executing any commands that will disrupby krwynn - Reprappers
M400 is the first one I tried and it worked! Top is full now. Thanks so much! -Kevin Quotedc42 If my theory about it being a firmware bug is correct, then you may be able to work around it by putting one of the following commands at the beginning of your end gcode: G4 10000 ; this should wait for 10 seconds M400 ; this should wait for all current moves to complete The idea is force the macby krwynn - Reprappers
Quotedc42 Sounds to me like a combination of a firmware issue and your end gcode in whatever slicing program you are using. I suspect that your end gcode contains an unbuffered command, but the firmware is (incorrectly) not waiting for all moves to complete before executing it. What firmware are you using, and what do you have in your end gcode? Thank you for responding so quickly. I am using Reby krwynn - Reprappers
Hi all. Printer is working better than expected right out of the box. I've mostly been running calibration prints to make sure everything is working properly. The only issue I'm having so far is that it never finishes the last layer as expected. It always leaves one small corner unfinished. It seems to extrude the filiment, but it leaves a thread from where it stops to home about an inch long. Abby krwynn - Reprappers
I just bought this board a few weeks ago and received it yesterday and to my surpise it was a v1.3. Must be an upgrade from 1.2 already. QuoteTERMINAL Hello. I bought the prusa i3 kit from ebay and built it. The process was a bit teidious since the seller didn't provide correct instructions. (The instructions were for a model with different parts) But it turned out allright in the end. I trieby krwynn - Prusa i3 and variants
Finally making some positive progress. Not sure why it didn't finish the top layer, but finally some light at the end of the tunnel. 10mm cube 10.01L x 10.25W x 10.25H Not sure what to do about that being off or if it matters a whole lot. I'm sure it does for bigger pieces. Not going to get to upset over the first successful print. -Kevinby krwynn - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotehathalud Well, I tried it... and it wasn't the same config file as the latest version, but I got mine working enough to home... mostly... first I had to invert the minstops, not a big deal. More importantly the Z axis is making tons of noise and barely moving at all... like it doesn't know if it should move up or down.... Suggestions? Did you set Vref for the motors?by krwynn - Prusa i3 and variants
I'm literally ready to bang my head on the table. I've read though this thread many times and nothing I do is working. All I can do now is beg for mercy. I had things I thought pretty good but when trying to print the table moved to the left front corner and didnt move. Soooo. I've tried so many things now that I'm completely lost. I'm not sure why this isn't clicking but isn't. Right now I haby krwynn - Prusa i3 and variants
Everything seems to be working ok. Endstops are behaving. Extruder heats up and feeds. Only issue so far is the heat bed. Got up to 50c and started going the other direction. Not sure what the issue is or where to even look. Connections are all solid. -Kevinby krwynn - Prusa i3 and variants
Great solution! Wish I'd have seen this hours ago. Quotepabloevaristo hi, I have the same bed model; i attached a picture. look how I put the switch. I hope it helpsby krwynn - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteEcky Did any of you file a flat onto the motor shaft to serve as a setscrew seat???? I didn't since there were 2 set screws for each connection.by krwynn - Prusa i3 and variants
Quote3dkarma Thanks for the compliment. We use NEMA 17 motors for all axes and the extruder. The bed insulator is 6mm ply on top of a 6mm aluminium frog, so it's nice and stiff. No problem with the plywood getting too hot? Are the NEMA motors all 12v 1.2 amp? Thanks!by krwynn - For Sale
Quotelouspinuso Quotekrwynn Thanks, but kind of hard to use that without a working printer to print it lol. I like the idea though. Might be able to rig something up to make what I have work like that in the meantime. Not really that big of a problem. I had an older style end stop mount and couldn't get that mounted so I just held the end stop switch in place till the print started so that the pby krwynn - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteMudjunkie That's what I had to do, the end stop will work the way they ment it to it's just a pain getting it set Did you cut any of the length off for that bracket? I think that would help a lot but don't want to ruin it if I'm not thinking of something. Thanksby krwynn - Prusa i3 and variants
Yes I love your design. What NEMA motors does it use? All 5 look the same size. And what do you use for the bed insulator? How thick is it? Thanks! -Kevinby krwynn - For Sale
Thanks, but kind of hard to use that without a working printer to print it lol. I like the idea though. Might be able to rig something up to make what I have work like that in the meantime.by krwynn - Prusa i3 and variants
Hi fellas, I finally received mine friday and have been sailing along pretty well so far. My main frame has a corner broken off so hopefully Folger will send a replacement. The acrylic was discolored where it broke so I'd guess someone hit it pretty hard to snap the corner off. My only issue so far is the Y endstop. The pictures don't jive with the the new revision B way of mounting bearings toby krwynn - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotegoboatmen Anyone else have a lot of issues with the extruder jamming? My printer works fine except for that. Whenever I try a long print it inevitably fails halfway through Try this: How to calibrate the Extruder on your 3d Printerby krwynn - Prusa i3 and variants
How thick is the aluminum frame? I love the looks of this design. Instructions are outstanding. Wish you were selling them in the US. Thanks! -Kevinby krwynn - For Sale