Quoteflatlander QuoteDaveA QuoteLancelotL Oh and one more thing. Any suggestions for getting the old throat out of the heater block? I think the Hulk inserted mine along with the extruder tip which was darn near impossible to get off too. I hope this doesn't sound too stupid but I assume you're aware there is a set screw locking the throat into the heat block. My block has become so gunked upby DaveA - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteLancelotL Oh and one more thing. Any suggestions for getting the old throat out of the heater block? I think the Hulk inserted mine along with the extruder tip which was darn near impossible to get off too. I hope this doesn't sound too stupid but I assume you're aware there is a set screw locking the throat into the heat block. My block has become so gunked up I wouldn't know it was theby DaveA - Prusa i3 and variants
Quoteb0bl0blaw I used therippa's marlin firmware, but found I had to set #define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {40,80,4000,90} , setting the x axis to 40 from 80 as the x axis was travelling exactly twice as far as it should in repetier. Is this normal? I don't remember reading anything about that in this thread. Thank you! Check under the X Axis stepper driver and see if all three jumpers areby DaveA - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotetherippa Why are you guys ordering extruders? You have a 3d printer sitting right next to you... Same here - all metal. I was hoping that someone knew of a better design with better mechanical parts. Not extruder gears made from cheese.by DaveA - Prusa i3 and variants
Has anyone else had issues with the stock Folger extruder drive gear becoming worn? I've had my printer for about 2+ months and have run maybe 21/2 spools through. 1 spool PLA, 1 spool PETG and a bit of ABS. In the last week or so I've noticed a lot of clicking from the extruder and the prints are becoming pretty bad. Examining the gear shows there is hardly any "tooth" left. They are all wornby DaveA - Prusa i3 and variants
Look at the Wiki page: The Folger firmware is pretty outdated and is not built to support auto leveling. Use the RC3 firmware that you can find by looking for one of theRippas posts here and follow the link. I've rebuilt this code with the current Arduino IDE with no problems.by DaveA - Prusa i3 and variants
I've been looking around thingiverse and others with no luck. Does anyone know of a non-bowden E3D mount with support for a BLTouch sensor? Or is bowden the way to go for an E3D?by DaveA - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotetjnamtiw QuoteDaveA Quotetjnamtiw I've been running my BLTOUCH off of an external wall wart; however, I bought a 12V/5V regulator at Radio Shack and was going to install it on the back of the plexiglas where the Arduino is mounted. I think I remember reading that someone was using one of these 7805's and, for some reason, switched back to the external supply. Whoever that was > why didby DaveA - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotetjnamtiw I've been running my BLTOUCH off of an external wall wart; however, I bought a 12V/5V regulator at Radio Shack and was going to install it on the back of the plexiglas where the Arduino is mounted. I think I remember reading that someone was using one of these 7805's and, for some reason, switched back to the external supply. Whoever that was > why did you switch back? Like tby DaveA - Prusa i3 and variants
Yet more bed leveling questions... Anyone know how to interpret the output from the auto bed level command? I have 4 points being probed but when the G29 completes it prints a matrix of 9 values. Are these absolute values that show the deviation from the result of G28.or are they something else? When I'm printing with ABL enabled should I normally see some movement of the Z axis other than theby DaveA - Prusa i3 and variants
Quotejohn-i Regarding the BLTouch, how long did it take to get it? My has been sitting here since the 20th? 2016-01-20 13:52 Departure from outward office of exchange, Dispatch number : 13 2016-01-20 13:43 INCHEON, Flight number : PO214 I tried looking up the tracking number on the USPS website and it recognized it as an item from Korea but it didn't have any information. I orby DaveA - Prusa i3 and variants
Thanks all for the help in setting the Z offset on my BLTouch. I was having an issue being a noob and trying to use the Repetier UI to try to move below 0. Once I used your examples and used g-code direct it worked fine. I originally had a power problem similar to what's just been mentioned. I found having the BLTouch connected to the servo pins caused really funky things. When I cycled theby DaveA - Prusa i3 and variants
QuoteBert3D QuoteDaveA I just installed a BLTouch sensor but I'm a little unsure how to set up the Z axis offsets. I'm running on Marlin RC3 with the changes from the Wiki merged in. I just need a little help in getting the vertical position set right. I'm using as the BLTouch mount on the stock FT extruder head. Anyone recently done this? With that mount, assuming yours extruder is just likeby DaveA - Prusa i3 and variants
I just installed a BLTouch sensor but I'm a little unsure how to set up the Z axis offsets. I'm running on Marlin RC3 with the changes from the Wiki merged in. I just need a little help in getting the vertical position set right. I'm using as the BLTouch mount on the stock FT extruder head. Anyone recently done this?by DaveA - Prusa i3 and variants
My first 3d printer build is moving along although somewhat slowly. I'm just at the point of mounting the extruder assembly to the x carriage. When I took the extuder from the box I noticed that the hot end portion was loose and flopping around. Once I removed the fan and heatsink I could see that the set screw was not tightened. My question on putting this back together is should the threadedby DaveA - Prusa i3 and variants
So, while I'm waiting for the kit to be delivered on Monday I've been reading the 100 pages and making a lot of notes. I've decided that I'm going to want bed leveling eventually. So that seems that I want the x stop to be on the left side so I'll build the printer this way from the start. I want to be sure I understand the changes I need. 1. Use therippa Marlin firmware. 2. Plug the left enby DaveA - Prusa i3 and variants