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Everything about Marlin firmware : Discussions, questions, support and feature requests...
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LV8729 what is recommended microsteping for the extruder? - 2 years ago

LV8729 what is the recommended microsteping for the extruder? Is there any advantage of going above 1/16 with marlin 2?
by witor - General

Re: Micro stutter on circles - 2 years ago

I am so sorry I have attahed wrong config files to my first post. This one has the correct files attached. I am printing with the sd card pluged to the slot on the main board (SKR 1.3) through extension cable. Could you please look at my config files just to check that if I have not missed something obvious? I will try to increase buffer size. Any sugested walue for SKR 1.3?
by witor - Printing

Micro stutter on circles - 2 years ago

I have replaced stock anet board with SKR 1.3 with tmc 2208 drivers on xyz and lv8729 on extruder. I am running Marlin 2.0. When printing circles (I think it is happening more with smaller, about 2.5cm diameter) I get a micro stutter which results in zits on the surface. I am printing from sd card. I thought that 32 bit boards should have no problem processing gcode to print a circle. I had b
by witor - Printing

Re: strange extruder skipping steps - 2 years ago

I think I have fixed the problem. I have done 2 changes in marlin. 1) Changed JUNCTION_DEVIATION_MM from default to 0.04 which seems to be the correct value for my acceleration of 1000 according to this: 2) I have also set #define MINIMUM_STEPPER_PULSE 0 (as I am running TMC2208 on XYZ and LV8927 on extruder) With this 2 changes in marlin no more extruder skipping steps on direction changes
by witor - Printing

Re: strange extruder skipping steps - 2 years ago

I have done some more testing today. My extruder can comfortably extrude up to 420mm/min. I can even go above 1000mm/min but I think filament is slipping at such high speed, but there is no skipping from the extruder. I printed the same little test cube as in the pictures above with the linear advance off (K value set to 0) and it printed no problem with no skipping from the extruder. With linear
by witor - Printing

strange extruder skipping steps - 2 years ago

Even when printing solid infill when there is quite large amount of plastic extruded my extruder is coping well, no problems. But, when print gets to a first solid layer on top of infill, which is shown in prusa slicer as bridging extruder keeps skipping steps. This bridging layer is printed at the same speed as infill (infill prints with no problem) For some reason prusa slicer shows much high
by witor - Printing

Re: Help needed with starting Gcode easy for you - 2 years ago

Thank you. I came with something like this, which seems to work quite OK: ; Filament gcode M900 K0.28 ;Set K factor PLA G92 E0 ; zero the E-axis G1 E100 F500 ; extrude 20mm of filament at 800mm/min G92 E0 G1 E-0.80000 F3000.00000 G92 E0 G1 X6 Y5 F6000.000 G1 E0.80000 F3000.00000 G1 F1200 G1 X56 Y5 E4 G92 E0
by witor - General

Re: Cad for printing...?? Moving On? - 2 years ago

I have been using Onshape for a while now and I love it. I just hope it will stay free for public projects...
by witor - General

Help needed with starting Gcode - 2 years ago

I would like my starting g code to home all axis, load manual bed leveling values ,extrude 10mm of filament at normal printing speed at home position to prime the nozzle, then to draw a priming line prusa I3 style. Line should be 50mm long and quite thick. After drawing the line about 2 mm retraction then move to start of print position and start printing immediately. I would greatly appreciate
by witor - General

Re: Ultimate z axis accuracy? - 2 years ago

The whole point of this topic is to find the way the way to reduce the effects of the mechanical imperfections of the z axis driving system. With a perfect mechanical system a particular number of equal angular steps of the stepper motor results in a precise linear movement. Let's say just as example that in perfect world 10 steps equals 1mm of linear movement. Unfortunately the angle of each ste
by witor - CoreXY Machines

Re: Ultimate z axis accuracy? - 2 years ago

It has been proved my many that z axis is very sensitive to inaccurate movements. If the bed goes down just by tiny bit too much or too little it results with a visible line all the way around the part as there is not enough or too much room for extruded plastic. I don't think that a plastic encoder strip from a printer provides enough resolution. Glass scale seems to have much more resolution.
by witor - CoreXY Machines

Re: Ultimate z axis accuracy? - 2 years ago

Some really good ideas and harmonic drive looks really interesting, but we are going of topic a little bit. My initial question was about using linear scale and encoder and a closed loop system so we don't relay on a mechanical accuracy of the driving system (lead screws, belts motors etc.) to try to get the bed to were it suppose to be, but instead measure the actual position of the bed and move
by witor - CoreXY Machines

Steel sheet metal frame? - 2 years ago

As far as I can see aluminium extrusions are used in most corexy frames. Would it be a good idea to use laser or plasma cut 2-3 mm steel sheets to build the frame? Laser cut pieces should be perfectly square so the frame would be perfectly square and the frame made of 3 mm steel would be rock solid. Sheets could be screwed together or maybe even welded. I do realise that a frame of 50x50x50 cm wo
by witor - CoreXY Machines

Re: Ultimate z axis accuracy? - 2 years ago

But what do you think about the idea of using a linear encoder? It should allow very, very accurate positioning, shouldn't it? I can't find any printers with DIY (printed housing) gears which give acceptable results. Which one do you have in mind? Would you mind posting a link or point me in the right direction? I also considered using NMRV30 which is considerably cheaper than Rino but I hav
by witor - CoreXY Machines

Ultimate z axis accuracy? - 2 years ago

As Digital Dentist demonstrated in his UMMD a belt driven z axis is the way to go. Unfortunately precision worm gear reducers are very expensive (especially in Europe). DD has already tried the DIY version of worm gear and showed that it is not a viable option. I am wondering if someone has ever tried using a linear encoder to get the actual accurate position of the bed. I came across this:
by witor - CoreXY Machines

Re: Belt z axis - which gears? - 3 years ago

I didn't actually get the Rino. It is too expensive to get it in the UK.
by witor - Extruded Aluminum Frames

Re: Belt z axis - which gears? - 3 years ago

This is my current idea. The big wheel is a 200 teeth gt2 pulley (almost 130mm in diameter). There will be 20 teeth pulley on the motor and 20 on the rotating rod which is 8mm in diameter. Not sure if i will be able to print gt2. If not then gt3 will be used to link the big pulley with the motor. Large pulley will be printed. It is not ideal but I hope that with this size of the wheel small inac
by witor - Extruded Aluminum Frames

Re: Sources for extruded aluminum profiles - 3 years ago

Has anyone bought from this company? I would really like to know what your experience with them was like, how precise and square the cuts are?
by witor - Extruded Aluminum Frames

Re: 4040 Open build profiles right angle joint - what's the best way? - 3 years ago

Thanks, nice clean and relatively easy to do. With this solution 4 bolts per corner should keep everything square ant rigid. I hope that extrusion supplier will cut the profiles at the right angle...
by witor - Extruded Aluminum Frames

4040 Open build profiles right angle joint - what's the best way? - 3 years ago

I would like to connect 2 aluminium extrusions at the right angle end to end. What is the best way to have nice square joint, stiff and easy do? I am thinking about something like on the picture below (using 4 bolts per corner), but I am worried that as a tight the bolts the profile will deform and that connection will not be stiff enough. Putting tubular spaces inside the profile sounds like a
by witor - Extruded Aluminum Frames

How to ask questions in this forum? - 3 years ago

I am now in a proces of thinking how to put together my own 3d printer. I don't want to call it 'designing' because people have built printers like this before. I have a ton of questions about various details, like what size pulley, how wide belt, and many, many more. Would it be better to start a new thread on the forum for my build and then ask all my questions one by one in that thread or sha
by witor - General

Re: 1 or 2 rails for y axis? - 3 years ago

I did an estimate of how much something like UMMD will cost (considering that I will have to import a lot of stuff) and I got a bit scared... I knew it will be more than few hundred dollars but the actual figure is a bit steep. Before spending some serious bucks on rails and worm gearbox I decided to one more time revise my initial idea. At the moment this looks promising to me: I will build the
by witor - Extruded Aluminum Frames

Re: 1 or 2 rails for y axis? - 3 years ago

In UMMD you went for 24 mm rails for x and y axis. Was there a specific mechanical reason why you went for such wide rails, or you just happened to find some rails of that size for a reasonable price so you went for them? Guides you linked in the previous post would be good for the Z axis, right?
by witor - Extruded Aluminum Frames

Re: 1 or 2 rails for y axis? - 3 years ago

After changing my plan to this, which I think would be ok in terms of stability: I realised that if I put a thick, sturdy bed on top which would be about 1kg I will have problem with too much mass moving back and forth which will definitely have a negative effect on the quality of the print. I tried to avoid core XY mechanics due to its complexity, but it looks like if I really want good quality
by witor - Extruded Aluminum Frames

Re: 1 or 2 rails for y axis? - 3 years ago

How far apart are y axis rails on SoM? I see that you are using 2 carriages alon one rail which definitely improves stability, but also requires longer rails to achieve required range of movement. I was thinking about something like this: Y shaped piece would be 4mm carbon fiber. On all 3 support corners I was planing on using teflon blocks with the kinematic links to the bed (like you did) m
by witor - Extruded Aluminum Frames

Re: Belt z axis - which gears? - 3 years ago

Thank you for your reply. I have already studied your design which I consider to be a masterpiece. Belt driven z axis, 3 point support for the bed and other stuff you have done with your printer are amazing. Thank you for your study of the Chinese worm gears and DIY gearbox. It will save me some wasted time and money because that was exactly what I was going to try before I saw your study. Unf
by witor - Extruded Aluminum Frames

Re: 1 or 2 rails for y axis? - 3 years ago

This is my idea at the moment. I am thinking about using a c shaped extrusion (40x80). Bed is 30x30. Rails are not spread very far but c extrusion should make aliment of rails a bit easier and should be rock solid. There will be enough space for belt inside the c extrusion. I am planning on using 3-4 mm carbon fiber kind of H shaped plate as a support for the heated bed. Any comments or criticism
by witor - Extruded Aluminum Frames

1 or 2 rails for y axis? - 3 years ago

I am planning on using Robotdigg MGN 12 rails for my Y axis. My initial plan was to use 2 rails for y axis to make me print bed solid stable. Is it an overkill? Would one rail be enough? Are 2 rails going to give too much friction and mass due to extra carriages? What about the carriages, one or two per rail?
by witor - Extruded Aluminum Frames

Belt z axis - which gears? - 3 years ago

After bad experience with my Anet A6 in which I had to mechanically (with belt) link both z axis screw leads to stop them getting out of sync I am thinking about a new way of driving z axis in my new printer. I plan to use rails on all axis. I would like to have a horizontal rotating rod with timing pulleys on both ends driving belts on both sides lifting the z axis. Some think like in this vid
by witor - Extruded Aluminum Frames

Re: Witor's coreXY - 4 years ago

Exactly. That's why I simulated extrusion only. If it is stiff enough (which it seems to be) with the rail it will be even stiffer. The simulation made me think that the aluminium extrusion might actually be unnecessary as even relatively small (thin) rail should be stiff enough. I will run a few more simulations when I get the actual rails.
by witor - CoreXY Machines
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