Sorry, I wasn't trying to imply that you don't. I just ranted a bit too long about the reasoning behind my process. What I was trying to say was that I think it's easier to time watching the first layer when starting the print after it's heated, rather than having to watch it and trying to time it when the printer thinks it's heated up enough.by Masterjuggler - Duet
M83 ; relative extruder moves G1 E-4 F2500 ; retract 4mm G91 ; relative moves G1 Z10 F600 ; raise nozzle 10mm This is my entire pause script. I've never had the issue of hitting hard limits, simply because it doesn't try to go anywhere but up. I pause during heating up all the time with this. I also always start the heating process, upload the file while it's heating, then start the printby Masterjuggler - Duet
Has anyone thought about running two fans in series (no, not wiring) to create more pressure? I figure it ought to work similar to series vs parallel in electronics, with series keeping the same current, or airflow, and parallel keeping the same voltage, or air pressure. I have a 50mm centrifugal fan connected to some 3d printed locline duct currently, and the back pressure is still lacking. I mby Masterjuggler - General
Be that as it may, it still doesn't justify berating someone who was legitimately trying to work with you, which is the thing that is pushing my buttons. I checked out your other posts, and I'm not questioning your experience or intelligence. If you tried the board and it doesn't work for your situation, then that's totally understandable. What's happening here though, whether you mean for it toby Masterjuggler - Duet
No problem. I find the same thing happens when I'm looking for a specific tool. I never find the proper tool I need until I use another in some dumb way it wasn't designed for.by Masterjuggler - Duet
There was a limit of 260C added in the last one or two updates. To change it, just add the line "M143 S280" to your config file. In my example, the limit would be changed to 280C. PID has since switched over to an entirely new method, including auto-tuning. You can find the procedure for how to do that here (Clicky!).by Masterjuggler - Duet
Well, it's a shame you gave up so quickly. I've been using the DuetWiFi for several months now, and I have to say, it's the best board I've used. Unfortunately, 3d printing as I'm sure you know is not yet at the level where just anyone can buy into it like a paper printer. Especially at the hobbyist level, we spend many hundreds of hours modifying, tuning, tweaking, and working on our printers.by Masterjuggler - Duet
I don't think there's going to be a quality improvement unless your settings change, which would have given an improvement no matter what the board. I was using a 0.6 until I sold it to a friend and got the DuetWiFi for myself. He's perfectly happy with it. I was using it with the heated bed from the E3D BigBox. Like dc42 said, there is a trace that can burn out if you put a powerful bed on it,by Masterjuggler - Duet
Yes, I did mean 2000mm/s^2, thanks for pointing that out so I could clarify. I don't actually know how much my gantry weighs. I'll have a chance to weigh it properly in a few weeks when I take it apart to replace the slowly failing PLA brackets with something stronger. When I made the printer, the crappy (to put it nicely) QU-BD Twoup I was using was only capable of PLA lol. I bumped the acceleby Masterjuggler - Duet
I'm working on taking the motor off the gantry and running a dremel flex shaft from it to a 25:1 worm drive on the extruder. I'll see what that changes if I can get it work. I don't really want to spend $90 on a flex3drive, but I know that this is an upgrade I want. I don't want to have to go back to bowden again, especially because I'm experimenting with flexible filament.by Masterjuggler - Duet
I just tried printing a 15mm cylinder with a face count varying from 10 to 60 in increments of 10, and I played with the speeds to see if that affected the grinding sound. For the most part, I kept it set to 60mm/s. The 10 and 20 count cylinders didn't sound grindy, but each corner definitely jerked. Once I hit 30 to 40, it sounded like someone using a wood rasp on steel. It was less pronouncedby Masterjuggler - Duet
I saw you added G2 and G3 support in 1.17c+1. Is that just for the sake of making this CNC compatible, or are you trying to future proof the board in case we ever manage ditch the STL file format and have slicers capable of generating arc moves? I'd love to use arcs for 3d printing. Better surface finish and smaller gcode file sizes.by Masterjuggler - Duet
For the past few months (as long as I've had the DuetWiFi), I've been getting really bad jerking when my corexy machine rounds curves. It happens at any speed, but it affects surface finish and turns into a terrible grinding noise at higher speeds (above say 60mm/s). This doesn't happen with any straight moves, diagonal or not. It only appears to happen between line segments, no matter what the cby Masterjuggler - Duet
Thanks for pointing that out, I completely missed that.by Masterjuggler - Duet
Is there a changelog anywhere for DWC? Simply because I'm curious and can't seem to find it anywhere.by Masterjuggler - Duet
Like I said, I had a lot of trouble with stripping filament before finding a good drive gear. Now I see nice, clean indentations from the teeth in the filament, and no dust is created no matter how many retractions happen. Now that I can put a crap ton of force behind the filament, I have no issues with high speeds. You may also want to try raising the temperature with the high speeds so it can kby Masterjuggler - Duet
Your post on low acceleration and high speeds actually got me thinking about trying that again. Last time I tried was when I was running a bowden setup and was having far more issues with ooze. I'm testing right now, and it's looking like I can do 150mm/s @ 1500 acceleration. I'm using a regular e3d V6 with an mk8 gear. I used to hate mk8 and favored mk7 due to bad experiences with stripping filby Masterjuggler - Duet
My standard is (all mm/s) 60-infill/solid, 45-outline, 250-travel. I can print over 150mm/s, but it looks really crappy. I much prefer quality over speed. I thought about and experimented a little with high speeds and low acceleration, but that would increase chances of ooze during perimeter crossing. Maybe I'll try it again. What are your retraction settings like for such low acceleration? I'mby Masterjuggler - Duet
M201 X2000 Y2000 Z500 E5000 ; Accelerations (mm/s^2) M566 X600 Y600 Z30 E1200 ; Maximum jerk speeds mm/minute That's what I'm using for my corexy built from v-slot. I based my printer on the D-Bot CoreXY by spauda01 on thingiverse, basically changing everything but the frame and motors. I'm using a custom direct drive extruder (HEAVY), DuetWiFi, BigBox Varipower bed, 24V,by Masterjuggler - Duet
I think that sounds like a pretty good idea. Either that, or a section on the wiki with a parts list and where to get them internationally for the most destroyed parts, like the MOSFETs. I don't know if you think it would be a good idea to also have a tutorial on the wiki for how to replace them, written you you, me, or someone else.by Masterjuggler - Duet
In my infinite wisdom, I managed to also blow PWM Fan1, after already ordering from digikey Luckily, I know exactly just how dumb I am, and ordered four MOSFETs. Not like I've been through the pain of having to order parts a second time due to not getting spares, on multiple occasions *whistles innocently*. Anyhow, soldered the new ones in, tested, and they work perfectly. For whatever reason,by Masterjuggler - Duet
Are you thinking you'd set the current such that it doesn't destroy itself when it crashes, but holds reasonably well during prints? That sounds like it would put a lot more wear on the printer over time, and trying to adjust it properly would be more trouble than it's worth. Spending $5 on endstops from China might be easier. Of course, I would like to see if this could even be implemented jusby Masterjuggler - Duet
Thanks, I appreciate it. I looked for a schematic of the DuetWiFi before, but could only find for the 0.6 and the 0.8.5. Well, at least now we know that the processor does't also blow along with the MOSFETs like it did on the previous boards, haha.by Masterjuggler - Duet
What mosfets are being used for the fans on the DuetWiFi? I managed to blow the one on PWM Fan2 after plugging a fan in backward, but it doesn't look like it should be much trouble to replace with decent soldering skills. The only identification I can get from them is "WK8 61" which doesn't help much using Google.by Masterjuggler - Duet
I don't know why this was posted twice, I only hit post once. If there is a way for me to delete this, I didn't see it. Please make any posts in the other thread, I'd like for this one to be deleted. Thanks.by Masterjuggler - Duet
I recently converted my printer to direct drive and just added a DuetWiFi. Ever since I went direct over bowden I got some fluctuations in the 104GT2 thermistor temp, but not enough to cause faults in the hotend when I was on the Duet 0.6. With the DuetWiFi, I got dips (never spikes) down to 130C from 200C, which caused heater faults within the first few minutes of a print. I autotuned three timby Masterjuggler - Duet
I recently converted my printer to direct drive and just added a DuetWiFi. Ever since I went direct over bowden I got some fluctuations in the 104GT2 thermistor temp, but not enough to cause faults in the hotend when I was on the Duet 0.6. With the DuetWiFi, I got dips (never spikes) down to 130C from 200C, which caused heater faults within the first few minutes of a print. I autotuned three timby Masterjuggler - Duet
Was it only that print, or is it like this on all prints? And just to be sure, is it only the estimation that is way off in DWC, or does the actual print time match what the wild estimation said? It doesn't matter if it's a custom machine, mine is home built too. I based mine off the D-Bot CoreXY on Thingiverse, but with my own extruder, the BigBox heat bed, 24V, Duet, and some miscellaneous priby Masterjuggler - Duet
I'm also using S3D with my corexy printer. S3D is optimistic like dc42 said, in my case generally between 25-50%. One time S3D told me a job would take 28 hours and ended up taking 44. I don't think S3D takes into account acceleration, jerk, and any other settings not set within S3D itself. Unfortunately S3D doesn't have any way to become more accurate, unlike Slic3r where you can tell it to autby Masterjuggler - Duet
I noticed that after uploading too many gcode files, the printer would disconnect from DWC when trying to view the list of uploaded files. Upload & print worked fine, I just couldn't view the list of previously uploaded files. I am unsure if this is a function of sheer number of files or size of the gcode folder on the sd card, but after moving the card to my computer to manually delete fileby Masterjuggler - Duet