QuoteSardi Your design was the one that got me thinking about this, so thank you for that However, since I am not in the UK, the rod+motor+delrin nut would cost over 60 pounds, and I cant do that right now. So Im going for the coupler version, but a non flexible one. Im just thinking what kind of rod do I need now, 8*8, 8*4 or 8*2. The 8*2 seems the most similar to the M5 thread I have right noby trevmas - Ormerod
Quotecheeseandham A friend bought a Prusa i3 Mk3 a couple of months ago and I must say I've been damn impressed with it so far. I've even considered selling both of my Ormerods (or even just discarding them) and buying the Mk3! I'm now giving my better Ormerod 2 one last chance to come up to scratch.... My Ormerod 2 is now on top of the bookcase having been replaced by a Prusa i3 Mk3 a coupleby trevmas - Ormerod
QuoteSardi Here is Another Z axis upgrade , also a good one. The one in the last post was inspired by this one. My issue here will be with the type of IR probe I have mounted, I am afraid I will loose about 2 cm of printing area because the IR probe trigger pad would have to stop the probe at the position that is on the photo. Have you considered a Precision Piezo probe? I found them to work eby trevmas - Ormerod
QuoteKaroo Klong Thats a good Z-axis upgrade indeed. Thanks!by trevmas - Ormerod
QuoteSardi I am having the hardest time finding the threaded rod 8*8, length max 400mm.... Anyone knows where I can order one of those? EDIT: Or should I be looking out for 8*2 or something else? For the Z axis I would always go with the lead screw built into the motor. Secure the motor well and leave the top end floating. My personal experience is that the couplers not only take up too much sby trevmas - Ormerod
This is interesting, as I notice now that my original RepRapPro supplied printed lower mount is certainly showing wear (to the point I've been considering this chunky monkey!). Did you post here about it trevmas? It'd be interesting to see some pics.. Not posted here as there are several people who have done the same. One other thing is that I was having a lot of bed movement when it was heaby trevmas - Ormerod
Quotecheeseandham Quoteormerod168 Is the upper nut in your anti-backlash setup mechanically secured to the z-nut trap? Possible other improvements I've seen and have wondered if it is worth getting the side plates CNC machined also. If you do, make them a little longer as I had to cut the aluminium bed support to clear the front frame when I upgraded later. If you want to max out the improvby trevmas - Ormerod
QuoteKaroo Klong Quotetrevmas WARNING! The original Ormerod solution allowed the Z nut to pop free if you crashed the head into the bed. This solution means that is no longer the case, all you have is the small amount of lift allowed by the rotation of the head on the rail. Can you not also wire in a conventional limit switch as a failsafe for if the carriage would crash into the bed? By theby trevmas - Ormerod
QuoteSardi Quotedmould AFAICS that part of the Ormerod is the same on both models, so I should think so. Dave Yeah, I thought so but wanted to be sure. I always thought direct drive would work better (or if anything - simpler) then the one with two gears. There is also this option to convert the ormerod to a direct drive but it requires to modify the x rib in order to keep the z motor in theby trevmas - Ormerod
Quotedmould I have done a similar mod to my Ormerod. Z backlash is not a problem because the weight of the X arm ensures that it is always pushing in one direction (down), so no matter how loose the nut, there is no backlash. Dave While printing I 100% agree, but... I was getting a very small inconsistency when setting the z height with the z-axis being raised and lowered. Normally it wouldn'tby trevmas - Ormerod
The Ormerod threaded rod with the method of mounting the gears for the z-axis always seemed a bit problematic for me even with upgraded gears, so I decided to upgrade it for a lead screw. To avoid using a shaft connector where space is tight, I decided to use a lead screw integral to the motor and bought this one from Oooznest. Initially I went with the standard brass nut but was not happy withby trevmas - Ormerod
I would have thought a variable nozzle size would be an expensive solution. Why not use two extruders of different sizes. You can use a different extruder in Simplify 3D for Layer and Infill. I don't think you can have different heights, but you can certainly have different widths.by trevmas - Duet
Quoteormerod168 Quote...and using reasonable retraction settings. I retract 10.0mm at 60mm/sec in the end script and it do not give me any trouble Erik I was using something similar with the stock 0.5 nozzle in a quickset hot end but now I use a 0.3 nozzle and have been able to reduce it to 2.6 mm but slower at 30 mm/s for PLA. I find ABS needs a bit more retraction at about 5 mm With the qby trevmas - Ormerod
QuoteKaroo Klong Thanks for the advice. I need to decide if I should replace the hotend? e3d v6 clone maybe? Just for a start. PS. How do you find the machine/kit number? I would really like to know and use it's number. I want to make this a cool usable machine. I would recommend making one change before you start another then at least you have a starting point when getting the best out of thby trevmas - Ormerod
QuoteKaroo Klong Quotetrevmas QuoteDavek0974 Hmm, tricky one then, is there a general consensus on the best version/design to look into? From a quick look I think the Ormerod 1 version may be compatible for all machines with the extra slot for the ribbon cable. The position of the drive belt and end stop holes would need to be checked though. The largest holes from the different versions would bby trevmas - Ormerod
I had this and couldn't get rid of it for ages, swapped bearings etc. In the end I tracked it down to a misalignment of the belt. I hadn't tightened the screw on the back of the motor enough and it had worked it's way loose. This meant the motor was pulling forward throwing the belt very slightly out of true. I tightened it up and the noise went away. I now have a redesigned motor mount that hasby trevmas - Ormerod
QuotePeterSimpson When I start to print, the printing process starts, some PLA may (or may not) stick to the bed but then it is dragged off the bed and accumulates on the nozzle leaving a horrible mess. I have tried cleaning the bed with nail polish remover (as recommended somewhere). Nail polish remover is not ideal as the Acetone often includes Glycerin and other chemicals designed to moistuby trevmas - Ormerod
Quotemat_fr It's incredible how we can tweak this printer... Alluminum arm, spring loader extruder, helical gears for extruder and Z axis, Y rod adjuster, extra fan. And all that does make a big difference. Seems that I only miss DC42 differencial IR sensor and a cable chain (cables are a mess on my printer). I've just upgraded my Ormerod 2 bed support to the aluminium version. Well worth itby trevmas - Ormerod
Quotemat_fr As I previously said in another post I ended up printing the acrylic spacer for the hot end, so I should be able to add a second fan eventually (there was only one on the first Ormerod2) but from what I've seen the second fan mount ends up being lower than the nozzle so maybe something is wrong with the print, or the model, or my nozzle setup. I'll work on it. Thanks Matthieu Thereby trevmas - Ormerod
Quotebrlowe While putting it back on I noticed how much my hot end would rock side to side. I have the carriage that has a bearing that rolls on the bottom of the arm. I have adjusted it up but I either have a little play or it slides like crap. Does anyone have a better design that can be printer and that holds the dc42 sensor board? There are a few of things to watch out for with a bottom mouby trevmas - Ormerod
I had no problems printing the ABS parts following the RepRapPro advice. Important: all the supplied printer parts are made from PLA. Long term exposure to the heat of ABS printing will cause some of them to fail. If you plan to print a lot of ABS, you should first reprint some of the parts from ABS, specifically (and in this order) the x-carriage, z-runner-mount, extruder-body and the rest ofby trevmas - Ormerod
Quotedc42 FYI I have never had to pay UK import VAT when buying these displays one-off from China. I ordered a 7" screen from the link on your page a few weeks ago. It came in less than 2 weeks and like you nothing payable on receipt. The cost is way below import duty charges but I was expecting VAT. Must be something to do with the gift box ticked on the transport label. You pay VAT on goodsby trevmas - Ormerod
QuoteFirefox3D Thanks I thought it be down to the M92 command, can you get the printer to echo back what the steps per mm values are I and not near mine at the moment. The Ormerod calibration page may be useful to you, also the Prusa RepRap calculator linked from that page. (from Ormerod calibration page) To check your settings, send ‘M92’ to the printer. It should respond (in the Pronterfacby trevmas - Ormerod
QuoteFirefox3D I am not mad they are not in there, certainly not as as DXF's anyway. It's not obvious where they are. Go to the RepRapPro GitHub. Select the repositories tab. Scroll down to Ormerod and select it. Select the tag near the top of the screen that says '3 releases'. You will see three releases each one with a zip file that describes itself as 'Source code'. This is the file you wby trevmas - Ormerod
Quotedc42 I see no reason why you can't print the fan spacer, although if the second fan hangs off it then I guess it might bend eventually with the load and the heat. You should be able to find the DXF file for it in RRP's github repo, then use a modelling program such as OpenScad to turn it into an STL with a defined thickness. The second fan should be connected to the FAN0 output of the Duet,by trevmas - Ormerod
Quotedc42 Yes, anything except matt black and silver should work. I have no problem with eSun green abs as in the photo above. I have some 1.5mm plasticard and used an off cut of that to set the height to the bottom of the sensor board. It was easy to get it too close and it would then fail to trigger at all. One thing I found was that using the original small homing pip it triggered fine whenby trevmas - Ormerod
Quotedc42 2. If you are using Linux or Mac OS, be prepared to revert to earlier firmware (e.g. 1.10+4-dc42) in case your operating system does not recognise the Duet, and please let me know whether or not it did. Seems to recognise it OK under El Capitan 10.11.4, 27" iMac retina, connected via a hub. (can't be bothered messing about round the back.....) Didn't test the firmware update as I usby trevmas - Duet
QuoteTreito I have no problems using my mounting adapters so I can use dc42's angled connector at the board. However for my own hot-end I had to lower the board so I redesigned both parts, but I did not upload them yet. I did not get your problem with my design as I also use the x-carriage, but only with a small mounting adapter und a new homing pad. The rest could be changed at the config.g to rby trevmas - Ormerod
There is 4 mm clearance between the sensor and threaded rod. That's plenty for the board as long as you are neat when soldering your leads, but a bit close for a pan head bolt. As it's close to the nut trap there will be little wobble in the threaded rod to worry about. If there is a significant wobble at that point you need to fix that first! A piece of Kapton tape is fine if it worries you, asby trevmas - Ormerod
I didn't get on with this solution. I couldn't get the nozzle to the edge of the bed without moving it to the other hole in the quickset heat sink. This the messed up my part cooling as the fan is much further away. I decided to go down the stock sensor route and mount it on the X carriage. This meant making a small mod to the X carriage as the board is wider and shorter. The capacitor means itby trevmas - Ormerod