It's been there ever since I've been using the program. It is user-adjustable. The approach they suggest on the manual page is to double-click on the part you want to change in the Plater window. Right-clicking on it and choosing Settings gets you to the same place.by IMBoring25 - Slic3r
Do you really not have a 1/8" drill (or even a file) either? You're just making clearance for the wire to go through. The exact dimension is not all that critical. They probably had some PCB suppliers who put a large enough hole in the boards to begin with or some wiring suppliers who had thinner insulation, thus the "might." As for running it without the heat-bed plugged in, it should be finby IMBoring25 - General Mendel Topics
You don't say what firmware you're running. It's possible it only looks for the first parameter. What happens if you pass G28 X and G28 Y as separate commands?by IMBoring25 - Slic3r
You'll have to provide a lot more info about the kit. From whom you got it or ideally a listing. That hot end could be anything. You might be better off getting a good replacement hot end if you can figure out a way to mount it.by IMBoring25 - General Mendel Topics
The previous RRP Mendel had Igus bushings as well. I have one that started life as such and hasn't had any changes made to that interface yet. There are no rules. If you can come up with a design that you think will work better, you're free to change it if you can make the parts work together. Mine is certainly a one-of-a-kind at this point that does work better than it did initially and I doby IMBoring25 - Printing
If you can get a nicely-dimensioned hex trap, you probably don't need heat or much pressure to insert a nut, so they're nominally easier to use. Being smaller, they're easier to integrate into compact or complex designs. They're also more readily available, not a separate line item to procure on the BOM when there are other places you'll be using hex nuts anyway, and around 10% the unit cost.by IMBoring25 - Reprappers
I'd be a lot more comfortable with more edge distance on those fasteners regardless of the materials used. Even better would be enough more edge distance to accommodate nuts and, ideally, washers. Tapped holes are nice for part count but they don't make a particularly strong joint.by IMBoring25 - General
Not familiar with Teacup but read up on PID tuning.by IMBoring25 - Printing
I don't think you're understanding. The OP wants to omit the perimeters on the periphery of the hole in the part so the infill goes all the way to the edge of the hole without omitting the exterior perimeters. Slic3r doesn't have that functionality. I can think of a couple off workarounds... 1) Take the outer surface of the part and thicken it by the number of perimeters you want times the peby IMBoring25 - Slic3r
Read up on PID tuning. As I recall Marlin has autotune, which should at least get you closer than you are now.by IMBoring25 - General
Don't see why it wouldn't work if the extrusion temperatures are compatible, but where you change for solubility or not you'd have to make sure you get a good purge.by IMBoring25 - Printing
If it's the inside hole wallowing out on you, you can look at how they did the extruder drive for the Fisher. You'll need a shorter M3 screw.by IMBoring25 - General Mendel Topics
It's probably subtler on square objects because it's starting the perimeters at a corner. You may be able to tune this some with coast settings depending on your slicer and firmware, you can change its appearance by switching between inside-first perimeters and outside-first perimeters, and you can make it a series of points rather than a line by switching to random perimeter start points, but tby IMBoring25 - Printing
Without any useful information, I'd venture the configuration of the bed size, endstop position, and tool offsets in the firmware and slicer don't match what's physically on the machine.by IMBoring25 - Reprappers
It's hard to know what changes to recommend without knowing where you're starting...Speeds, temperatures, what kind of hot end... I've had no problems with it starting with my ABS settings except running the hot end at 255C and the bed at 70C. Going that hot does take an un-lined hot end.by IMBoring25 - Reprappers
I agree with Mikk. Those "shelves" on the inside are completely unsupported (unless you add designed-in or generated support material). When you're extruding into air, there's nothing to hold the plastic in the location where it's being deposited. You can design overhangs at printable angles (most printers will do 45 degrees from the vertical and potentially more depending on the configurationby IMBoring25 - Slic3r
...And? If this is a post that should have gone in the, "I need something 3D printed," section, you're probably going to have to pay the big bucks to a real rapid-prototyping shop. PC and PEI are both extremely challenging materials for hobbyist-grade 3D printers and the dimensions of typical headlights and taillights are also beyond the typical build volumes of hobbyist-grade printers.by IMBoring25 - Reprappers
Thet's right for a Windows installation.by IMBoring25 - Slic3r
That explanation is always true. Also, if you're doing a small print, cooling settings will dominate.by IMBoring25 - Slic3r
Don't think you're going to get that done in any kind of reasonable condition without soluble support.by IMBoring25 - Printing
What are you attempting to accomplish? Repair is a necessary element of getting a solid volume to slice. If you're feeding it non-manifold STLs, it has to make decisions about how to close the gaps or there's no solid to slice. Give it properly-built STLs by running them through NetFabb or some such program first and there should be little or nothing for Slic3r to repair.by IMBoring25 - Slic3r
To expound a little, you can't use software Z offsets with multiple extruders. They have to be mechanically set with the nozzles at exactly the same height or the lower one will drag on the bed/part when you're using the higher one. When extruders have a different distance between the mounting faces and the nozzle the mounts will need to be offset. The author discusses what type of hot end oneby IMBoring25 - Reprappers
- 9 years agoAre you measuring the thermistor in its circuit? That won't give the right results, and I would expect a thermistor alone to be more stable than that at room temperature. Are your thermistor settings stored in the firmware or EEPROM? Is there any way they got inadvertently reset to some defaults that are inappropriate?by IMBoring25 - Reprappers
Actually, it might be faster with diagonal infill depending on your firmware and configuration. If your jerks and accelerations are set per-axis (which is appropriate, but some firmwares might use the resultant vector sum), you will get more total jerk and acceleration using both axes, so the printer will spend more time at the set speed (or as close to it as practicable).by IMBoring25 - General
1.09r still had severe crosstalk for me. Since that post I've loaded 1.11 (and subsequently 1.12) which tamed it nicely.by IMBoring25 - General Mendel Topics
The results will depend on which version of each slicer you're using, how you've configured each, the printer you're using, the filament you're using, ambient temperature, how you weight and evaluate the various qualities of the prints, and innumerable other variables. The guy he linked at the end of the video did his own test and came to a completely different conclusion. Simplify3D didn't eveby IMBoring25 - Slic3r
You can't do that with a photo. You need a CAD model, which you can develop from a 3D scan or a thorough set of measurements.by IMBoring25 - Slic3r
Separate heaters do have benefits, too, though. You can't print different materials with wildly different extrusion temperatures through a Diamond. I do PETG over PVA on mine from time to time, and the PETG extrusion temperatures would clog the nozzle immediately once PVA started going through.by IMBoring25 - General Mendel Topics
I've really been impressed by RRP's geared mini extruder. I've not asked it to do anything it wouldn't. As for hot-ends, I also liked the QuickSet hot end they introduced with the Mendel 3 and its contemporaries. Simple, high temperature capability, and low thermal mass. I have two of those and an E3D v6 mounted on mine at the moment, with a Diamond on hold for addition.by IMBoring25 - General Mendel Topics