White paper tabs ontop of the glass will work but then I have to forget a out mesh bed leveling as having extra targets all over the print surface will interfere with the print footing. Has anybody tried mirror beds? I see alot of Youtubers reccomend the use of mirrors for print surfaces. Yes it is still the RepRap heated bed that came with the kit. The powersupply however is set for 15.7V so itby Karoo Klong - Ormerod
With white paper under the sensor I remember seeing a reading of close to 900. No I do not have paper targets on the glass bed since having those will render mesh bed leveling useless as you cannot have targets on the printing surface. Do you propose I put a sheet of paper under the glass bed. Would'nt that pose a burning hazard since I use the heated bed at 120°Cby Karoo Klong - Ormerod
That's my problem with the infrared sensor. I don't get anything beter than P521 vaue and thats with the sensor face 0.2mm above the bed (I had to bend it down) and with the print nozzle on Z0 I don't know how to get the value any closer to 600.by Karoo Klong - Ormerod
Ok Thanks for clearing that up. I will bite the bullet and update the firmare and the web interface as well. I found the problem with the P500 value that my printer does not return. I loosened the probe and found that it had been set all the way to the top. So I homed the axes and set the nozzle to centre of bed and dropped it all the way according to the paper feel method. then dropped 0.05mmby Karoo Klong - Ormerod
Quotecheeseandham I've had a look, please remember I'm not an expert, just an enthusiastic amateur! I understand and appreciate your time and effort to try and help me very much. QuotecheeseandhamI've not seen you specify exactly which Ormerod, I get the impression that you are using an Ormerod 1, and my information is based on this assumption. That is correct, I have an Ormerod 1, of the origiby Karoo Klong - Ormerod
Wow. Exiting! I am looking forward to seeing what ideas you have to upgrade and improve the Ormerod. I have grown quite fond of the printer and think there is still much the design has to offer. One thing that plays against the cantilever arm is 'ghosting' in prints but with the Ender 2 an the Cetus both being cantilever style printers they still proved to be very successfull. The use of linearby Karoo Klong - Ormerod
Quotecheeseandham Karoo, Zip up your whole sys directory and attach it here, I'll be happy to take a look this weekend at some point. (you should be able to do it from the web interface, just select all the files and right click , save as zip) Thank you cheeseandham Here is the zipped sys folder.by Karoo Klong - Ormerod
Ah Thanks for explaing that cheeseandham So ill just copy your bed.g and manipulate it to try and aid my attempts. I want to be able to at least probe 9 points I am glad I managed to get the probe working but i see that is not allways spot-on while I was doin the G29 grid attemt.by Karoo Klong - Ormerod
This time I tried something diferent. Every time I enter G29 it goes to X0 Y0 for the first probe. I have defined M557 X0:200 Y0:200 S50 But even if I change the X value it still goes to X0 I hold a piece of paper to triger the probe while it is off the bed at X0 Finaly I got through the probing process and managed to get a heightmap.csv file generated. RepRapFirmware height map file v1 meaby Karoo Klong - Ormerod
The moment I set these in the config.g M557 X50:170 Y10:170 S10 ; Define Mesh Bed Leveling Grid M558 P0 ; Manually adjust the nozzle and I go with G29 I can't homex and when i predefne x with G92 X0 then it still doesnt recognise the x endstop when I want to Auto bedlevel. What am I missing. Everywhere i read it just say to define M558 P0 and set the M5578 X0:200 Y0:200 S20 but that doby Karoo Klong - Ormerod
Good! I got home.z sorted G91 ; set movement to relative mode G1 Z5 F200 ; move Z up 5mm G90 ; set movement to absolute mode ;M558 P1 ; UNCOMMENT this line if you upgrade to a 4-wire probe G1 X50 Y0 F12000 ; The probe was not aligned at X20 G30 ; home Z, using values from G31 in config.g G1 Z5 F200 ; Move Z up to Z=5 G1 X0 Y0 F2000 ; Move tby Karoo Klong - Ormerod
I read through all the .g files in the sys folder and I noticed this in the homez.g G91 ; set movement to relative mode G1 Z5 F200 ; move Z up 5mm G90 ; set movement to absolute mode ;M558 P1 ; UNCOMMENT this line if you upgrade to a 4-wire probe G1 X20 Y0 F12000 G30 ; home Z, using values from G31 in config.g G1 Z5 F200 ; Move Z up to Z=5 G1 X0 Y0 F2000 ; Move to X=0 Y=0 G1 Z2by Karoo Klong - Ormerod
This is pretty much similar to the problem I am having. But my printer is already mostly aluminium. Therefore I am now persueing manual mesh bed leveling.by Karoo Klong - Ormerod
I have now repeatedly read through all the feedback and now I understand a bit better what WesBrooks explained to me so neatly. I was just not able to understand the terms and implementation that well. Thank you WesBrooks and dc42 for setting me on the right track. However there now are still a few more questions that I need some help with please.by Karoo Klong - Ormerod
Yes I have and it made no sense to me. I read through all my older posts and I am now a bit closer to understanding the coding process again. So reading it now does make a bit more sense. This is how I interpret what I am reading 1. I read that you can have G29 wich is Auto Bed Leveling (What des the S0 and S1 signify?) 2. First you must Home all axes G28 (mine does the X and Y and on Z it movby Karoo Klong - Ormerod
Ah wellcome to the struggle I see you purchased the one on Gumtree. I had my eye on it but couldnt get to the guy. Also the price was abiut R600 too steep. I'l send you a PM with my information. I am strugling with my one again I need to get this auto bed leveling thing sorted. The printer works fine but the bed is not always truely flat and as soon as I heat it up the bed starts to warp a bitby Karoo Klong - Ormerod
From what I have read so far it seems that I will have to go back to the basics. The problem with my Auto Z Probing is that the position it goes to is at an offset where the probe isnt even over the bed and thus the probe cannot read the height. I manually moved the print head to where it should be reading heights and they are as follow. X20:100:170 Y0:100:190 (That would form the 9 points I haby Karoo Klong - Ormerod
Very much appreciated sir.by Karoo Klong - Ormerod
I did find this Using the manual bed levelling assistant but it refers to having adjustment screws and my adjustment screws are locked at the points were they are all equal to zero. But the rest of the print bed does not always have all other points at zero.by Karoo Klong - Ormerod
I have been a bad boy and hijacked a thread or two so here goes my own atempt at dedicating a thread to my problem. The Alumarod is working fine and I am able to reproduce very neat parts from ABS but the unevenness in the glass bed is causing larger parts to warp still. I think the glass bed warps due to the clamping system I am using so 4 point leveling does not work. Till now I have tried toby Karoo Klong - Ormerod
Yes Yes! That's it! I hope. Thanks you. I will do my best at trying to follow this and making it work.by Karoo Klong - Ormerod
Thank you David. I will try and find what you are describing. What is DWC (is that the web interface)? I do not have a Touch Screen Panel Duo. My apologies Cheeseandham. I will start another discussion solely to try and adress this matter. Thanks for your great work in the Wiki Page.by Karoo Klong - Ormerod
Ah! This is most welcome. I am scavenging the grounds to find a solution to manual mesh bed leveling on an Ormerod one. It has the standard optical sensor but its accuracy sucks. The printer bed has glass on it and I do note that the bed surface is not uniformly level. I have adjusted the three set screws of the bed as best as I can but still the ventre and sides lift and bend down respectivelyby Karoo Klong - Ormerod
You have a good pint. The pins are more easily removable and are also has a higher current rating. Also there is another two open slots for when I connect the part cooling fan. Can the two fans runn off the same ground?by Karoo Klong - Ormerod
Wow the Rail Core II printers seem amazing!!by Karoo Klong - Ormerod
Sounds to me like you are needing Fusion 360. It has a free startup registration for makers and you get very good support videos on YouTube. Look at Lars Christenson's videos.by Karoo Klong - Prusa i3 and variants
What do you think about this one Erik. Or perhaps even this one? I am also now searching for a part cooling fan for my Ormerod 1. There are no fixing points that I can see. What would you reccomend for printing PLA. I will need to install a part cooling fan as well. PS. I also stumbled upon this modelby Karoo Klong - Ormerod
Reading this realy brings a tear to my eyes. I am the owner of an Ormerod 1 and have had many enjoyable and also frustrating moments with it. But the enjoyment of being able to create your own machine and being able to modify it to better suit your need is definately something that the world should not loose. Thank you Sir Adrian Bowyer for sharing this amazing invention with the whole world. Yby Karoo Klong - Ormerod
What is your opinion of Tech2C's Hyper Cube?by Karoo Klong - Ormerod
Thank you dc42 I will contact them. however for now the connector seems to be working very well.by Karoo Klong - Ormerod