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Smoothieboard and Smoothieware, see also http://reprap.org/wiki/Smoothieboard and http://reprap.org/wiki/SmoothieBoard#Smoothieboard.
Re: GCode Laser offset - how? - 5 years ago
QuoteVDX The "power" is set by an analogue voltage, which defines the pulse-length -- between 5 an 50 microseconds I think I recently read about your setup using your own design circuit board and that's way out of my knowledge arena. I need to find a solution that is low cost off the shelf parts like a Nano/MKS etc as I have them here..by StlLooking - General
Re: GCode Laser offset - how? - 5 years ago
Quotecozmicray What software are you using to produce G-code? How does the software turn laser ON/OFF and set power? Inkscape and the JTech (Vector) and/or 305 Engineering (Raster). Both are just on/off for intensity. The laser takes a 5vdc PWM signal for infinitely variable intensity and I have soldered wire to the leg of the Fan MOSFET. So far though both of the above GCode generators make youby StlLooking - General
Re: GCode Laser offset - how? - 5 years ago
Thanks, I have a metal "L" stuck to the bed in the former 0,0 position so locating things will be the inside corner of the "L" as 0,0.by StlLooking - General
GCode Laser offset - how? - 5 years ago
Hi, I have added a small laser to my A6 carriage. It is mounted on the print-nozzle X-centreline and 70mm in front of the nozzle on the Y-axis. Because the laser gcode is not created in a slicer, I cannot define the nozzle start-offset position so I have set Marlin for 2 nozzles. I now need to add the second nozzle definition in the gcode. How do I do that? I have found some things online, but tby StlLooking - General
Re: Anet A6 and a laser -- PWM where? - 5 years ago
QuoteDust re PWM try enabling #define FAST_PWM_FAN Upload, M502, M500, M501 OK, that did nothing. It is still around 980Hz. I tried messing with the SOFT_PWM and with PWM_SCALE set to 1 it is 15KHz, way too high. The SCALE is an Integer so it would not let me use 0.34 for around 5KHz. Any thoughts on why the FAST_PWM_FAN did not change anything? Thanksby StlLooking - General
Re: Anet A6 and a laser -- PWM where? - 5 years ago
QuoteDust You can attach a wire to the gate pin and use this at a 5v PWM signal. Thanks, but the heatsinks on the MOSFETS stick out over the terminals. I might try to pull off the heatsink and hope it is still sticky enough to go back on. But, I guess just driving the laser a missing heatsink may not matter. In the mean time I will try the Fast Fan you mentioned and see what that returns, thankby StlLooking - General
Re: Anet A6 and a laser -- PWM where? - 5 years ago
QuoteDust stop using GNDS from mosfet plugs. OK, confused still but thanks for the explanation. The imqqmi post suggested using 5v and I thought, the MOSFET Ground. I was trying to save having to order some resistors for the voltage divider. We live out in the boonies and everything is 3 to 5 days. I guess I misunderstood how imqqmi meant for me to connect it. Using the 'scope Ground on the poby StlLooking - General
Re: Anet A6 and a laser -- PWM where? - 5 years ago
Well, using +5vdc from an unused Z-end-stop socket and the ground from the Fan-Grnd pin I get this exciting trace. Not sure I want that going into the laser PWM. In fact the Bed and End pins also have such traces. It seems like this board's idea of PWM does not include square waves. Or, am I doing something wrong and what do I need to fix that?by StlLooking - General
Re: Anet A6 and a laser -- PWM where? - 5 years ago
Quoteimqqmi the mosfet switches on the ground side. Ahhh, so that explains the 'scope ground thing running the fan. Now that's weird --to me anyway. Thanks.by StlLooking - General
Re: Anet A6 and a laser -- PWM where? - 5 years ago
QuoteDust there are only 8 PWM pins on this controller, they are used as follows.. ... So very few you can actually use. Thanks again, but for a laser I don't need a few of those, so that should open the choice a little. Could I use one of these? 6 J3 pin 3 7 J3 pin 5 Wouldn't they already be 5v? I will go looking for those pins today. If I can, the next issue would be how to change Marlin 1by StlLooking - General
Re: Anet A6 and a laser -- PWM where? - 5 years ago
OK, thanks. But I have a weirder thing that is well out of my area of understanding. Yesterday, I decided to try using the part-cooling fan, so I checked that M106 Sxxx in GCode to see if it changed the speeds and it did. Good start. I then hooked the 'scope to the red/black wires to check the PWM frequency and P-P voltage. With that connected, as soon as I power up the A6 the fan runs full speeby StlLooking - General
Anet A6 and a laser -- PWM where? - 5 years ago
Hi, I have an Anet A6 I rarely use and just purchased a blue diode laser to make some smoke. I have Marlin 1.1.9 on the A6 so I just defined the Spindle/Laser in 1.1.9 source and it uploaded just fine for 91% of program storage. Now I need to drive the laser PWM/TTL which is 5vdc. What pin will have PWM at 5v and where will I find it on the Anet board? I checked the fan sockets and they are botby StlLooking - General
Re: Stupid Question about 2.5W laser - 5 years ago
QuotePDBeal Is it safe to assume that I could just wire this plug into the RAMPS 1.4 board as if it was a hotend heater, heatbed, or cooling fan and run PWM? Not a silly question but certainly not a clever assumption also. You should check with the vendor. I recently purchased a 5W from Amazon and while the laser runs on 12vdc, but the PWM/TTL is 5vdc Peak/Peak and a max of 9KHz. I believe thatby StlLooking - Laser Cutter Working Group
Re: Marlin - Temperature adjustment offset? - 5 years ago
Thanks, I forgot to mention I am using 1.1.9. I tried v2 a few months back, but still too buggy for my skill level.by StlLooking - Firmware - Marlin
Re: Connectors for hotend wires - 5 years ago
Great, thank you. Found them on Amazon and vendor ("Bretlux" or something close to that) seems to have a lot of Molex stuff. I will know where to look next time.by StlLooking - General
Connectors for hotend wires - 5 years ago
Hi, I would like to change out my hotend heating element as it is old and not keeping up with the demand printing at higher temps. All the wires to the head are bunched in a cable chain and do not want to strip out the wires and snake the new ones in. I'd like to cut the wires at the head-end and install connectors for a simple swap over. It is a 12v, 40Watt element so around 3.5Amps. What connby StlLooking - General
Marlin - Temperature adjustment offset? - 5 years ago
Hi, I have been having some issues with PETG so dragged out my K-Type thermocouple and Fluke-meter. The thermistor I am using is low by a varying degree as the temp goes up. At 235 it is actually only 228 so I have bumped the temp up in the slicer to give an actual 235 hotend. Just wondering if there is an offset for the temp in Marlin source so I do not have to remember to always bump the tempeby StlLooking - Firmware - Marlin
Re: Change Delta lateral start position? - 5 years ago
Marlin 1.1.9: Not that I can find for a Delta. There are probe offsets but it assumes that any "normal" person would want the print in the centre of the bed. I was about to peel off the very ratty build surface then realized that 80% of it is still pristine, so why not use it. Then I started moving it in Cura before Slicing -- when I remember that is.by StlLooking - General
Re: Change Delta lateral start position? - 5 years ago
Thanks, I had already tried everything I could find in Cura 3.6 and 4.0 to offset the centre. I will now go ask on the Cura forum, but I may be stuck with manually repositioning it before slicing. Thanks anyway.by StlLooking - General
Change Delta lateral start position? - 5 years ago
Hi, what can I do to move the center-position on my Delta? Most of what I print is a max of around 4" x 4" in base size. I have well worn patch in the centre of the bed and I'd like to make the thing think that the centre of it's world (X=0, Y=0) is offset to the side somewhere so that it can wear out another patch. I know I can offset it in the slicer but half the time I forget (old and tiredby StlLooking - General
Re: Does this CoreXY make sense? - 5 years ago
QuoteSchild0r I read that there is only a maximum of steps a board can send to the drivers and that this is less steps for 8 bit...Does that only apply to USB printing? I always print from SD The better idea, IMHO, is using a TFT28 or TFT32 with a RAMPS 1.4 (low cost and works great) or MKS-Gen-L board. The TFT have 32-bit Arm CPUs and they just feed the main board the steps as needed. It is theby StlLooking - CoreXY Machines
Re: GT2 belt tooth profile design - 5 years ago
Awesome, thanks Dust. Very much appreciated.by StlLooking - General
GT2 belt tooth profile design - 5 years ago
Hi, I am having trouble locating a design of the actual tooth profile of a GT2 belt. I need to print some special pulleys and I have Pitch Diameters etc and some belt parameters, but nothing on the actual tooth profile. Can someone please point me at a .PDF or web-page that shows the Curvilinear tooth radii etc. Thanksby StlLooking - General
Re: My first Brim, my first failed Brim. - 5 years ago
Quotethe_digital_dentist Raise the nozzle a little. Nope, nozzle height was fine as I have been getting perfect first layers for months, so it'd be wrong to touch the nozzle height. It was the line width. Too much PLA was getting squished sideways/inwards as the nozzle-path moved in. I increased the Initial Line Width to 115% and problem was solved. Quotethe_digital_dentist Have you calibrateby StlLooking - General
My first Brim, my first failed Brim. - 5 years ago
Hi All, Anycubic Delta, Inland-PLA, 220/60c, Cura v3.6, 0.4 nozzle, 0.2 Layer, 60mm/sec Two years in and I have never used a Brim until today. I have a print with a very spindly base and was getting a lot of corner lifting. So I decided to try a Brim and it looks to work -- but. When the Brim is being laid down, the inner-corners are getting way too much plastic and rippling up. The next layerby StlLooking - General
Re: Manually using RAMPS to move steppers - 5 years ago
QuoteVDX ... you can send serial commandos and set any actual position to 0 - e.g. the X-axis, by "G92 X0" ... then move it 50mm to the [+]-position per "G1 X50 F2000" ... Thanks, I had tried that already on a test setup on this computer, but that will only work in the positive direction. Plus, I don't have a portable PC to take to the build table so I need to be able to use the LCD-encoder withby StlLooking - General
Manually using RAMPS to move steppers - 5 years ago
Hi, I am building a new CoreyXY and waiting on stepper motors to arrive in a week or two. In the mean time I want to set up Marlin 1.1.9 on a Mega+RAMPS board so I can begin testing stuff (mainly Z-axis) when the motors get here. On my other printer, (A6) with 1.1.9, I cannot move any axes via the LCD+encoder, without first homing. As the new build will not have limit switches set up yet, I neeby StlLooking - General
Re: Amps for 12v to 24v conversion - 5 years ago
QuoteDust What is under your heated bed? It came with some ceramic insulation fiberboard taped to it with a single big piece of Kapton tape, so not a lot of heat goes downwards. It's printing now and fans are not that bad. I have a 4" fan that blows air across everything under the build plate. I will stick a thermocouple in there tomorrow before starting and see how warm it is getting. I guessby StlLooking - General
Re: Amps for 12v to 24v conversion - 5 years ago
OK, no smoke but more noise from the fans. There was a 30% decrease in waiting time. 12v -- 23-C to 60-C it took 140-seconds. 14v -- 23-C to 60-C it took 98-seconds. I think I will drill a screwdriver-hole in the front cover of the PS so I can tweak the volts up when I am running filament that needs bed temps higher than the 45-C I run PLA at. Thanks for your help.by StlLooking - General
Re: Amps for 12v to 24v conversion - 5 years ago
QuoteDust what ever you feed into it you get on the bed, hotends and fans pins directly. (just like a ramps) Thanks again. I was getting excited there, until I read "fans." How well will the cheap 12v fans last with 14v? I guess I will just try and if I burn fans out they are cheap to replace. I have not opened up the PS that came with the delta, but the 24v one has the adjustable-pot. Watchby StlLooking - General