I will try doing that to test it. But that still doesnt really ecplain the weird behavior of it aborting the print due to the probe already being triggered.by WalkerMaker - Printing
Hello, Having a strange issue with my BlTouch on my smoothieboard. My probe is behaving as follows. When it starts up, the probe end closes, extends, and then closes like normal. The red light is on the probe while the prob is retracted. The probe extends on M280 S3.0 The probe retracts on M280 S7.0 M119 Always results in saying that the probe is triggered. When I attempt to start a print (witby WalkerMaker - Printing
Thank you for the tip! I never thought of splitting the wand in two. I will however try ramping the tension all the way up and seeing what the output is. I guess I've just been under the assumption that you don't want to use more tension than absolutely necessary to extrude.by WalkerMaker - General
So I've had my e3d titan for a few weeks now and I've done several calibration prints. From simple cubes and towers all the way to bridging, xyz vibrations, hole tolerance, etc. However, I'm having an insane problem...I've been trying to print this design from thingiverse on behalf of a coworker. My machine is custom built, uses an all lead screw based system, and I have pictures attached of wby WalkerMaker - General
Hello! Recently upgraded to a e3D Titan extruder. It's an impressive little fellow but I'm having some trouble printing off successful 3D Benchies. I was wondering if anyone knows of any good Slic3r profiles settings for the extruder/retraction/speed that I could take a look at?by WalkerMaker - General
Good idea on cooling the drivers. I'm using a smoothie 5x with 2.0A on each driver, and heatsinking. But still they're hot. In addition, I think I found the issue. The extruder setup I have might be blocking the bearing from pressing the filament up against the filament gear. Basically the hinge that the bearing swings on is a bit lopsided it looks like, so I'm going to switch to an e3d titanby WalkerMaker - General
Yes it's being run through USB and yes I believe it's running right.by WalkerMaker - General
So I recently built a new printer and I've noticed some really weird behavior I will start a 3d benchy boat and it will go strong halfway through, then suddenly it will just clog up. I thought it might be my retraction settings, so removed all retraction and it still happened. Upon examining the direct drive extruder, I noticed I could lightly push the filament through by hand and the filamentby WalkerMaker - General
Is a Smoothieboard capable of running multi-point grid calibration for an H bot or core xy style machine?by WalkerMaker - Smoothie
They are TB drivers.by WalkerMaker - Stepper Motors, Servo Motors, DC Motors
For the sake of a response, I believe the problem is resolved. I was actually able to cut out the logic converters, and the 3.3v from my Smoothieboard work on the stepper drivers. I'm using the drivers to push 2.5 amps to my steppers. Why? Because freedom. Also, it was recommended by the supplier when I querried. Also, my 3D printer will have cnc capability, so I want the strength. The main solby WalkerMaker - Stepper Motors, Servo Motors, DC Motors
I tried reducing z acceleration but to no avail. I definitely think its something to do electrically. But I also made a video of the problem I will try my setup without the level shifters....although, I have mixed feelings about that, given how much effort I spent in designing the circuit board haha.by WalkerMaker - CoreXY Machines
Hello, I have a pain in the butt problem that I can't seem to fix for the life of me. Here is the link to to problem Please let me know if anyone has seen this problem before?by WalkerMaker - Stepper Motors, Servo Motors, DC Motors
Hello all, I am developing a corexy printer and I'm having difficulty getting my stepper motors to perform the way they should. My setup: I'm using a smoothie board 5x as my controller. The board has break out pins for Ena, Dir, and Stp/pull. From these pins, I have them fed into logic converters that take the 3.3V logic and raise it to 5v logic levels. From here, the now 5v signals are fed intby WalkerMaker - CoreXY Machines
Hello everyone, I've been e-mailing the smoothie team about this problem already but I thought i'd ask to see if anyone else had a similar problem. I recently got a Reprap discount GLCD and shield for my smoothie board, and I'm getting this pain in the butt issue. The GLCD is always bright and I don't see any text. Has anyone run into an issue like this? I think the shield is working becauseby WalkerMaker - Controllers
Hello, My PTFE tube keeps popping out of my hotend. I've gotten hundreds of hours of good prints with my setup, but out of the blue I come into to look at my printer in the morning and I'm greeted by a tangled mess lol. The weird thing is, I thought that I had a clog or something, so I stripped my hotend, torched it, and re-assembled it. Got great clean extrusion...and for some reason this keepsby WalkerMaker - General
Oh wait, so your saying after I take the 5v from the 12v power source, I can use a voltage divider to peel off 3.3v from the 5v?! That's a great idea, and I'm pretty comfortable with implementing them. But I guess I have a pretty fundamental question on power supplies. If the only thing I have connected to my power supply is my 5v regulator, does that mean 30 Amps will be sent to it since nothiby WalkerMaker - Controllers
How could a voltage dividea help if I'm trying to step my 3.3v up to 5v? I thought you could only use a voltage divider to reduceby WalkerMaker - Controllers
I'm using some external stepper drivers in conjunction with a smoothie board. The external drivers take 5v logic level inputs while the smoothie board only sends out 3.3v. I was going to use a 3.3 to 5v logic converter from spark fun But I need to power it with 5v and 3.3v in order to get it to work.by WalkerMaker - Controllers
Hello everyone, Simply put, I would like to know if it's possible to take 5v from a 12v 30Amp power supply. I ask because it seems rather silly to buy a 5v power supply when I have more than enough power already. I've done some research on linear regulators, but honestly haven't been able to formulate a plan for this problem.by WalkerMaker - Controllers
Also, I looked up your printer. Looks like you run on a RAMPS board, so check your stepper drives and make sure the right amount of current is being sent to your stepper motorsby WalkerMaker - General
This could be a couple different things. You may be extruding too much plastic but your layer height isn't high enough. I suggest you run your hardware specs through this calculator and try and see if that matches your settings. lead screw specs layer heightby WalkerMaker - General
Hello, I'm designing an H-bot 3d printer that uses two NEMA 17's from openbuilds for the Z-axis. I'm also using a Smoothie 5x and a dual extruder setup, so I can't sacrifice two of the stepper drivers on my smoothie board for the task. My question is: How do I control these 1.68A/phase stepper motors from only one of my Smoothie board's on board outputs? Should I be looking for something likeby WalkerMaker - General
I know this entire site probably isn't the best place to post a hydraulics related question, but I've always gotten great responses from the awesome community here. I'm hoping someone has stumbled on something in their internet hunting because I just don't really know where to ask this. What I'm looking for: Hydraulics pistons that have a total stroke distance (from maximum extension to retractiby WalkerMaker - Mechanics
Quotethe_digital_dentist I think that 1/4" plate that size should be OK. It is stiff enough that it won't sag much, so as long as you print with first layer thickness 200-250 um you should be able to print nearly edge to edge. I did some measurements of bed flatness (combined with X axis and Y axis sag, etc.) on my printer and posted video here: heated: unheated: The bed is 1/4" cast toolinby WalkerMaker - General
Thanks for the disclosure I took a look at your link and I really like the idea of having a touch screen when I have everything up and working well. So do you use an aluminum plate with a piece of glass on top? Also, thanks for clarifying. Ended up googling the process of making glass. Really amazing, I can't believe they thought of floating liquid glass on a lake of molten tin o.O Also, whyby WalkerMaker - General
I've been designing an h-bot using v-slot aluminum profiles from open builds. I've got the mechanics and everything down, but I have a couple questions I need an opinion on. 1. I have a 350cm by 350cm silicon heated bed that I'm going to attach to an aluminum plate. I was thinking of using a 1/4" thick plate, but should I go thicker? 2. Should I splurge on float glass/borosilicate or is justby WalkerMaker - General
Hello, I've been using 3-point bed leveling with my smoothie board for some time now, but I'm going to be using my control board in a larger H-bot design. I want to switch up to using grid based leveling, and I wanted to make sure that my understanding of certain g-codes is correct before I do something potentially damaging. FYI, I'm performing these tests on a Prusa i3 variant. Questions M370by WalkerMaker - General
I'm going to purchase some lead screws from Open Builds part store, but I don't know how to cut them. So I gotta ask, does anyone know how to do this? I was thinking of getting two 500mm length rods and cutting them to 400 mm. Going to use them in an H-bot I've been designing.by WalkerMaker - Mechanics
Thanks for the input. I raised my layer height to .35 I was using a .4mm nozzle before. I wanted to see how much faster I could go with a .5mm. I also recently just experimented with a .3mm nozzle.by WalkerMaker - Printing