Quotecristian What is the reason for not using Openscad itself to do the job? yes - exactly. If you have an openscad model, just superimpose a cube over the object where half of the object is inside the cube and half is outside. then you can do a difference to get one half and an intersection to get the other half.by jbernardis - 3D Design tools
I don't know where to find the model, but it looks to be extremely easy to work up in openscad. Have you tried?by jbernardis - Object repositories
I discovered that I could boot to the old kernel via the grub menu, so this is what I have done. The issue HAS been reported to Ubuntu. I guess I'll just stay behind until they fix it.by jbernardis - General
My Ubuntu 14.04 system just updated itself, and not I am unable to use the serial (US ports. I get a SerialException and if I change my host program to ignore them, I lose input characters. Basically I am down until this gets fixed. Anybody else seeing this?by jbernardis - General
I'm still here I'm still in the same situation with cura, but it's a minor issue to me. As slic3r has advanced. in my mind it's gotten better and better. I rarely use Cura anymore.by jbernardis - Experimental
This is a known problem with these LCD's, and the general feeling is that the ribbon connector between the arduino and the LCD is too long - too close to motors - too susceptible to electro-magnetic interference - and that's what causes this garbage to appear. Try to keep your wires as short as possible and try not to route them near any of your motors. Most of the times that this occurred to mby jbernardis - RAMPS Electronics
I agree with you regarding support. Slic3r has come a long way, but it still has issues. Interesting to hear your issues regarding slic3r presets.. I have heard many others express similar issues, but I have never experienced it myself. Although I use the slic3r ini files, I don't actually use the slic3r interface. My host program actually merges the print, printer, and filament fileby jbernardis - Slic3r
Quotethe_digital_dentist ...Slic3r is very good but a little buggy. Sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn't and it takes a little experience to know when the problems it creates are caused by slic3r and when they are printer problems. Try Cura instead. It is easier for a noob and very reliable. There are fewer confusing options to set, and if you have problems with a Cura sliced file notby jbernardis - Slic3r
The problem I see with Marlin configuration is that there is basically a single massive configuration file that has settings for every type of board that is supported. When you're looking at the file, you have to take into account what your motherboard type is and if you are in that section of the file. With all of the nesting and conditional complications, it can be difficult to see if a partiby jbernardis - Firmware - mainstream and related support
QuoteTraumflug - That said, Configtool is an outstanding exemption from this. Jeff continued to work on it, got rid of the quirks, and as a result it's available for everybody now. Excellent! Thanks for the kind words. I'm a software developer by profession, an electronics tinkerer as a hobby. The thing I like about the 3D printing hobby is it gives creative outlets for both. When I decided tby jbernardis - Firmware - experimental, borrowed, and future
60/55 is what I do as well for PLA. As tadawson has suggested, it might be your first layer extrusion, or perhaps you are a bit too low on the Z axis. Some degree of smashing the first layer is desired - to help with adhesion - but not to the point of deformation.by jbernardis - Printing
Check out the M400 command. I believe it returns ok after all buffered commands finish.by jbernardis - Developers
Your message isn't clear here. It sounds like it's not the hot end overheating, but the motor. If it IS the motor, then it is overheating because you are overdriving it. This same thing happened to me; the motor overheated to the point where the small gear and the extruder body both deformed. Also, I couldn't touch the motor for more than a second or two. My solution was to dial back the cby jbernardis - General
The SD failed message is innocuous if all you want is host-based printing. I temporarily removed my SD reader from the printer and I get this message at every start-up, but it prints fine from the host. There is something else going on here and there's not enough information in the message to begin to tell why it's happening. Are there any error messages? You mention that the heaters heat up.by jbernardis - General
You want the connectors that plug into the board? What board do you have? If it's a RAMPS, then you want dupont connectors. They can be found cheaply on ebay, but for a reasonable price, Pololu sells them. You can get the connectors here. As the previous post suggested, you can crimp your own ends onto the wires, but I like to buy pre-crimped wires, also from Pololu.by jbernardis - General
You cannot de-compile what is loaded on the board, so the IDE will be of no help. You can see what some of the settings are, though, by just querying the firmware through the pronterface manual interface. First of all, I believe that many parameters are displayed when pronterface first makes a connection. Other that that, check the G code reference here, particularly the M115 command.by jbernardis - Reprappers
Those messages mean to me that you're not even connecting to the processor. Either your baud rate is wrong or your port is wrong. Or your programmer is wrong.by jbernardis - Firmware - experimental, borrowed, and future
Do not reduce your hot end temperature to solve this issue. As mentioned it is a temperature problem - or more accurately a cooling issue. PLA takes a few seconds to set after it is extruded, and so if you extrude the next layer immediately on top of one just printed, you will get deformation. You need to provide the time for proper cooling. Most slicers offer some ways of handling this. Asby jbernardis - Printing
I you're trying to use an FTDI connection, you are basically trying to program the AVR thought the serial interface. I'm not 100% sure of this, but I think in this case, you need a bootloader on your AVR already. this is the arduino solution. If you're using a raw AVR chip without the bootloader, then I think the easiest route is to use an ISP adaptor. I use an AVR programmer from pololu. Ifby jbernardis - Firmware - experimental, borrowed, and future
I depends on what type of fan you are talking about. On my printer, I have two kinds of fans mounted on the X carriage: 1) always on fans pointing at the extruder body, and 2) G Code controlled fans pointing at the printed objects. The former are connected directly to the power supply (there is a switch in there so I can turn them off), and the latter are connected to the Controller so that heby jbernardis - General
If you're hitting maxtemp without the fan, then there is as more basic problem. The D9-controlled fan is not meant to regulate the hot end temperature(nor is the "always on" fan) - it is meant to cool the printed object. Hot end temperature is regulated via a thermistor. If you really want to turn the fan on during pre-heat, you can add the necessary G Code command into your start G code. Butby jbernardis - RAMPS Electronics
Yes What firmware are you using and do you have eeprom enabled. If eeprom is enabled, the values stored there will be used regardless of what you change the code to. Usually, though, there are commands available to change the steps/millimeter on the fly and then store those new values into eeprom. See G code commands M92, M500, and M501 here.by jbernardis - Printing
This happens repeatedly to me - and only for the "General" forum. There are other forums I'd love to unsubscribe from, but there is no way to do it. The "General" forum keep unsubscribing itself. I'd say every month or two I stop getting a count of unread articles, so I enter only to find that everything is unread.by jbernardis - General
QuoteTraumflug a) put this issue into the issue tracker and Done QuoteTraumflug b) start checking late in dda_create() to see wether these homing movements cause E steps (dda->steps). I'll start checking into the code to see if I can identify anything. I'm not really worried about this. More curious than anything.by jbernardis - Firmware - experimental, borrowed, and future
The Arduino IDE option to see the commands is "show verbose output during: compilation upload". I have both check boxes enabled. This way when the code is building or uploading, you can see the full command lines go by in the window. If we can see the avrdude command line, we could tell you what values to plug into configtool.by jbernardis - Firmware - experimental, borrowed, and future
I noticed an interesting behavior and was wondering if it was something peculiar in my setup. When homing via G28, I notice that the extruder is turning ever so slowly. It's not a big deal - it's just a bit more filament ooze that I need to clean up at the start of the print. I just thought it odd enough to bring up here. Maybe I'm just the only one who noticedby jbernardis - Firmware - experimental, borrowed, and future
Are you saying it times out trying to do the upload? If so, do you have the correct programmer, port, and upload speed specified? These three items are critical to having upload succeed. I don't know the sanguinololu well enough to say what the appropriate values are, but if you have the arduino IDE, you can check the settings there. Both the arduino IDE and the teacup configtool use the sameby jbernardis - Firmware - experimental, borrowed, and future
Marlin will not allow you to move any further in a negative direction than your starting point until you've performed a home. I'm not sure if eliminating your end stops will get around this. I'd put the endstops back in play, enter a home command and trip each end stop manually to see if that gives you freedom of movement. If you move your motors in a positive direction, can you then move themby jbernardis - Stepper Motors, Servo Motors, DC Motors
The voltage isn't the important number - what is the amperage or wattage capacity. If you've been operating the PSU at close to its capacity for two years, perhaps things have just caught up to you. The typical 3D printer using RAMPS is fused for about 16 amps total - 5 amps on one rail and 11 on the other. Usually the draw is less that this, but it still needs to be within the PSU specs.by jbernardis - RAMPS Electronics
What is the amperage capacity of the PSU? Could you be overloading it?by jbernardis - RAMPS Electronics