You really only need two G code commands for temperature - one to set it (and wait until it reaches temp) at the beginning, and one to turn it off at the end. In between the firmware takes care of maintaining that temperature. Some slicers, depending on the setting, will change the temp mid-print. For example, it is common to have a higher temperature for the first layer. This is usually specby jbernardis - Controllers
This happened to me and ended up being a faulty electrical connection to the heater. Printer movement caused ti connection to loosen, but when it was sitting still it seemed to work OK.by jbernardis - Controllers
Quotelunarkingdom I run mine from the power supply. Yes - there is no real advantage to powering an always-on fan through the RAMPS. Also note that the image labeling above is a bit misleading. The thing labeled "electronics fan" is actually the power input to the RAMPS board. However, you CAN tap off of here to power anything that uses 12 volts (provided your PSU has capacity). This includeby jbernardis - General
Are you trying to run it directly - by just specifying the jar file name - or are you running "java ". I've never done this myself, but you might have better luck if you directly invoke the java interpreter since it is native executable. The jar file needs the java interpreter to run, and it's probably a windows file extension association that causes this to happen.by jbernardis - Slic3r
McMaster-Carr is the best source for Metric hardware in the US.by jbernardis - Reprappers
I think dc42 has the right idea. Your ITL files are the inventor internal representation. In reality these files are unit less - units dont matter until you export the file for a particular device. I suspect that when you export, you are exporting in inches, but your printer needs millimeters. This will result in your printed objects being 1/25.4 of the size of the original object.by jbernardis - General
About the only way that can happen that I could think of is that one of the sides is binding causing motor stalling and lost steps. Try moving the axis up and down by large amounts (10 cm or more) manually and see if you can observe either motor stalling due to binding. Do it at various speeds. The two sides of the axis need to be exactly parallel to one another - including both the smooth baby jbernardis - RAMPS Electronics
If the steps/mm were wrong, the printed objects would be the wrong size. If they are the correct size, then you know steps/mm is correct. What I would look at are the maximum speeds you have set in the firmware. Your G Code can ask for whatever it wants, but your firmware could limit your speed to less than is in the G code. I suspect that your earlier firmware had lower maximum speeds than wby jbernardis - Experimental
it's not filament slipping because the shaft of the motor is twitching too. To me it looks like you need to adjust your stepper driver current. It looks like it might be a bit low. I don't know anything about your electronics, but the typical stepper driver has a trimpot which you can use to adjust this.by jbernardis - Printing
What kind of hot end do you have? PLA has a known issue with some hot end designs - notably J heads - where the filament will jam inside the upper body of the hot end. The problem is that the body temperature gets hotter than it should. The solution is to put a small fan aimed at the extruder body - not at the print. Also, the fan should be always on - not controlled by G Code. I have a 25mmby jbernardis - Reprappers
Quotebraddo99 Seems Matterslice has this option but it doesn't appear to do a retraction so filament oozes all over while the extruder is hanging out. Forget the mess this makes. This means you're losing track of plastic. So even if you sat there and tweezed off the plastic as it oozed, the final print quality will suffer.by jbernardis - Slic3r
This link may help you: http://www.jasonbabcock.com/computing/breadboard/unipolar/index.htmlby jbernardis - Stepper Motors, Servo Motors, DC Motors
Sounds to me like it might be a loose connection somewhere in the hot end circuit. I've had it happen a couple of times. Moving back and forth weakens connection points, and it gets exacerbated when it is moving in short fast bursts that shake the whole machine. The first time this happened to me, it seemed random, but then I realized it was always near the same spot on the bed. I eventuallyby jbernardis - Firmware - experimental, borrowed, and future
I am having trouble achieving stable temperatures on my J-Head hot end. The bed is fine, but the hot end, when set to 185 for example will fluctuate between 181 and 189. It's very rhythmic - the cycle from 181 to 189 and back to 181 takes about 25 seconds. Previously with Marlin, there would be some fluctuation when first reaching the temp, but it would settle in on 185 quickly and stay there.by jbernardis - Firmware - experimental, borrowed, and future
It looks pretty nice, but I do all of my 3D printing and it's associated tasks on a Linux machine. Windows specificity is an issue for me.by jbernardis - Experimental
QuoteKurzaa ... due to firmware, not software issues as jbernardis suggested... Quotejbernardis ... is subject to whatever logic is built into the firmware ... Actually I was attributing my issues to firmware tooby jbernardis - Printing
QuotePlasteroid Well, I did not trust to software. I have put a panic switch between power and motors. I agree for this particular issue. Any command you enter on the host software - either directly or by pressing a button - is subject to whatever logic is built into the firmware. I know that when the axes are homing, the firmware does not send temperature reports; I can only imagine that it iby jbernardis - Printing
The reset button on the arduino will do it. I tapped off of the button to make an actual panic button on my printer frame. When your print head us trying to drive through the bed, there isn't time to enter m112.by jbernardis - Printing
If you were truly seeing chewing to the point where it took a semicircular bite out of the filament, then relaxing the tension wont solve the problem. It will only result in slippage and will most likely not dig into the filament. If your filament is getting chewed up, the likely cause is that your print speed is not in line with your hot end temperature. Your hot end can only melt plastic atby jbernardis - Printing
That's a very common problem, and there are a number of mitigation strategies people use. Many of them work well, but none are perfect. One technique is to use the brim feature of your slicer. This puts a wide border around the bottom layer to give it more surface to adhere to the bed. I do this on troublesome objects, but the main solution I use - at least for PLA - is PVA cement. In the Uby jbernardis - Slic3r
I've had 2 of those FCI connectors fail on me, but not where the wire screws in. They have failed where the two pieces of the connector come together - on the positive side of the 11 amp connector. Using crimp-on spade connectors wouldn't help.by jbernardis - RAMPS Electronics
It's not marlin at all. Marlin just executes the G Code it's given. For what you are looking for, I think you want to look at the start G Code that is inserted by your slicer.by jbernardis - Firmware - experimental, borrowed, and future
In slic3r in print/infill, there is a setting named 'solid infill threshold area' Any area below this threshold (expressed in square millimeters) will be solid infilled. It could be this is what is happening to you.by jbernardis - Slic3r
and what port name are you trying to use. To windows, this is NOT a printer. It is a serial device.by jbernardis - General
If you consider the origin of your coordinate system to be at the front left of the bed - and most people do - then your X and Y axes are both backwards, and it's not a question of where your endstops are. You need to invert both axes, and it can be done by changing the value of the invertX and invertY - I forget the actual variable names, but you should be able to find it easily - variables (dby jbernardis - Printing
You are correct - in Marlin (at least in the version I am using), the baud rate is in the source code, not in EEPROM. The only way to change it is to modify the source code, rebuild, and re-deploy.by jbernardis - Printing
How are you planning on having two motors pushing on the same piece of filament? The only way I could envision this is if you had two hobbed bolts or gears facing one another rather than one with a bearing. Kind of unusual. In any event, why couldn't you just take your cue from the way most Z axes are configured. In my printer, I run 2 motors off of the same stepper driver for the Z axis.by jbernardis - General
It's not the power supply that determines the amount of current flowing, it's the load. 200W at 12V = 200/12 = 16.66 amps. As AndrewBCN correctly states, this will trip the PTC fuse. It also may exceed the current carrying capacity of the RAMPS traces (which is why the fuse limited to what it is). Also, you don't give specs on your PSU, but this could also exceed its maximum too, which is somby jbernardis - RAMPS Electronics
You WILL need to make sure the new RAMPS board has the same jumper settings as the old board. Specifically the microstepping jumpers beneath the stepper drivers have to be in the same configuration.by jbernardis - Reprappers
You also have to set the center of your build area in your slicer. You didn't give us any details, so it's hard to know.by jbernardis - Printing