Twists in the belts are only needed if the pulleys are small or you want quiet operation at very high speeds. The stacked F625s used in that design are still a little small to have the belt teeth hitting them- they could cause print quality problems (as well as making zipping noise at high speed). Gates recommends a minimum of 9 teeth in contact with a smooth pulley surface, and since the belts aby the_digital_dentist - General
Flanged bearings are used because the toothless pulleys sold for 3D printers have bearings that are too tiny and will wear out very quickly. Flanged bearings are better because the balls in the bearings are much larger and should last a lot longer. This is the kind of small stuff that you don't have to learn by doing - you can rely on other peoples' experience and save yourself a lot of trouble,by the_digital_dentist - General
It's great that you're going to try to design your own machine, even if it is based on someone else's design. One of your goals was to learn from the process, and you will most certainly do that. I can make a couple recommendations regarding that design. It appears to use a stacked belt corexy mechanism. Notice that right at the motors the belts bend 90 degrees and at the opposite corners the bby the_digital_dentist - General
I print largish PETG items on PEI all the time. I use 70C bed. The prints stick, but come off easily enough by applying a few drops of IPA to the bed/print interface prior to prying them up. I use this type of tool to do the print release: I never liked either glass or hairspray...by the_digital_dentist - General
I don't think there's any danger of resin printing replacing FDM for most people. 3D printing hobbyists are among the cheapest people on the planet. Resin printing is expensive, very messy, and stinky. As you scale it up in size, the expense and mess increase exponentially. Most people won't want to bother with it. There are plenty of plastic makers outside of China. OTOH, in the US I'd worryby the_digital_dentist - General
A machine that moves the bed in Y will not scale up beyond about 300x300 mm. As the bed gets larger it becomes heavier and harder to throw back and forth at print speed. Deltas don't scale up well, either, so stick with a square/cartesian machine of some sort. I suggest that instead of one of the old bed flinger designs, you start with a design that will scale well such as a core XY in which theby the_digital_dentist - General
And there's no way to connect one to that board? Maybe time to upgrade the controller...by the_digital_dentist - General
If you want to save energy and space why not print from SD cards instead of streaming gcode through an unreliable USB connection? The LCD display that's usually attached to the SD card reader will tell you as much as you need to know, and provide controls to move the axes around, set temperatures, etc.by the_digital_dentist - General
RepRap Firmware that runs on Duet controllers has something called "orthogonal axis compensation" that can be used to correct for such mechanical errors, but like most mechanical alignment errors, it's better to correct the error than to use software to compensate for it. You can check orthogonality by printing a cube and measuring diagonals. No, not a 20 mm "calibration cube"- that's too smallby the_digital_dentist - General
The unscrewing of the heat break from the heatsink is one of the major flaws in the E3D design. There is no way to tighten the threads enough to ensure it won't loosen without twisting the little neck of the heatbreak. I replaced the V6 with a cheapo hot-end that has worked perfectly for the two years or so it has been on my printer. It's a little longer than the V6, but holds the heatbreak intoby the_digital_dentist - Reprappers
One thing you'll notice in many amateur 3D printer designs is that people don't think about how they're going to enclose the printer. I see a lot of corexy designs with the top of the printer's frame used to make the XY mechanism, resulting in the same sort of problem you're having. Wheels on t-slot linear motion usually causes the same sort of problem. The other thing not frequently considered uby the_digital_dentist - CoreXY Machines
Here's an example of the way axial fans behave with ducts/nozzles: When I posted that video to reddit a couple years ago, and suggested that people check their axial fan nozzles for air flow, a bunch of people said it had to be fake, so I shot another video: The response was as ridiculous as you'd expect from reddit. Someone said there are thousands of designs for axial fan ducts on Thingiverby the_digital_dentist - General
Axial fans do not work well with nozzles because they can't produce pressure to get air flowing through the duct/nozzle. Look into radial fans which work better against the back pressure produced by a duct/nozzle. Or, just tilt that fan to direct air downward. I had a cubex printer that used two or three fans without any ducts- it seemed to work fine but took up a lot of space. The hot-end was iby the_digital_dentist - General
I have written a post processor for the pattern files that allows me to specify two speeds, one for the drawing and one for the motion along the edges of the pattern/table. That means I can draw the pattern slowly to preserve detail and I can run the edges very fast to reduce time to pattern completion (especially for patterns with a lot of edge motion). I posted a sample video of output from thby the_digital_dentist - CoreXY Machines
I think something like the mechanism used in a powder bed 3D printer would be best. Push all the sand into a box, then push up from the bottom and squeegee it out in a uniform layer over the drawing area. Maybe the next table...by the_digital_dentist - CoreXY Machines
I recently found that alcohol on the bed helps release an over-adhered TPU print on PEI, too.by the_digital_dentist - General
The newest version of the mechanism and table are finished. The new one is smaller, has a glass top, and uses servomotors for insane speed and acceleration.by the_digital_dentist - Look what I made!
After several hours of drawing. The sand tends to get pushed out toward the perimeter of the drawing area. I've got too much sand on the table right now- I'll be pushing some off the drawing area.by the_digital_dentist - CoreXY Machines
As requested: Arrakisby the_digital_dentist - CoreXY Machines
I have finally got it just about complete and fully operational: The mechanism is built using 45 mm square t-slot, the sandbox is 1/2" baltic birch plywood on the sides and 1/4" baltic birch plywood on the bottom, covered with a sheet of EPDM roofing membrane. The sides of the sandbox have 1/2" high density foam and red and blue striped fur cloth. The top is an oak frame, stained and finishedby the_digital_dentist - CoreXY Machines
My printer has a 300x300 x690(ish) envelope. I have run 0.4mm nozzles and a 1 mm nozzle in a volcano heater block to make 600+ mm tall prints. You can make tall prints with a 0.4mm nozzle, but not single walled vases. Single wall vases (at least, asymmetrical ones) don't work well because at some Z level, the weight of the print is enough to cause the walls to flex and eventually the print failby the_digital_dentist - Mechanics
Quotebellarzios Just as the title says, husband and I are wondering if we should go with a guide or not. The trail seems pretty straightforward now, so seems like we could do it ourselves. We can do lightly moderate hikes on our own. He’s worried about gasses, but I think that not having a guide means we can go at our leisure and not (snipp//snipp) on their time. Anyone have suggestions? wrong fby the_digital_dentist - Mechanics
What kind of printer are you building- is the bed moving back and forth or up and down, or not at all? How fast do you intend to print? How will the aluminum plate be mounted?by the_digital_dentist - Mechanics
I think you could print a full size rotor like that and run it at 10krpm. I printed some smaller rotors that I copied from a CPAP blower and ran them at over 20krpm without incident. They came off the printer requiring no tweaks to balance them and the motor ran very smoothly. There are some slicer tricks you can use to get the blades to print the way you want. In Prusa slicer you can specify tby the_digital_dentist - Let's design something! (I've got an idea ...)
A heater doesn't care if it's powered by DC or AC, so why spend extra money on a big power supply to give it tightly regulated DC? Switching power to a DC heater requires a DC SSR and they tend to get hot in operation, so you have to cool them, usually with a heatsink (cost) and fan (noise). Line power switching using an AC SSR leaves the SSR as cool as a cucumber without a fan, and often withoutby the_digital_dentist - Mechanics
You can't use teflon tubing of the type used for bowden tubes for extruders?by the_digital_dentist - Tech-Talk
Why does any of this have anything to do with 3D printing? Is this just a test to see how close to racist rhetoric you can get without getting banned? Grow up. The world has enough of this garbage already. There's no need to pollute this space with it, too.by the_digital_dentist - General
I asked what the actual request was because it wasn't clear. There was a lot of rambling and complaining about things that don't seem to be true... You're right, I am disqualified... best of luck to you.by the_digital_dentist - General
Where are you getting filament that is so far out of spec it causes printing problems? I used to measure every spool in 30 places and calculate the average diameter of the filament and used that value when I sliced. I stopped doing that about 3 years ago because I found that even the cheapest no-name brands of filament I routinely buy via amazon.com have been very good at controlling the filamentby the_digital_dentist - General
So what is the question you want answered?by the_digital_dentist - General