Good luck with the build! I also built a derivative of one of these not long ago and am very happy with the print quality - it has completely replaced my prusa i3 now. I eventually ended up just going with the v-slot extrusions.by sdavi - Australia, Perth RepRap User Group
Also check that you set the right baud rate in repetier host, as that needs to match the rate set in the firmware. Since the firmware was preloaded its hard to tell, but it's most probably going to be 250000 or 115200.by sdavi - Reprappers
Latest version, nearly 20% less plastic than previous version. Separated and flipped the motors, removed the tensioner bearings, so now the belts can be tensioned by sliding the motor mount along the slot. Moved the z-rods down to the next bar to gain more z height, i had 500mm sides so now i get 275mm build height.by sdavi - CoreXY Machines
This tutorial is quite good and also has lots of pics. The manual on github for the i3 has all the sizes etc you need. There are also plenty of build guides on youtube as well.by sdavi - Australia, Brisbane RepRap User Group
@jand - yeah X and Y are about the same, i get the full 200x200, with about 50mm spare X. I'm currently making a dual hotend mount so that extra space should hopefully be just about right. I did loose a little height on the Z, but its 196mm which was about the same as i had with my prusa i3 anyway. I was also initially hesitant building a cantilever Z axis but i am happy with it. It doesn't bounby sdavi - CoreXY Machines
From a quick look you do have different steps per mm for z axis in in the new config file In your old config: #define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {79.5, 79.5, 3142, 94} In your new config: #define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT {79.5, 79.5, 4045, 94}by sdavi - Reprappers
Another zelogik/jand based printer. Almost complete, still waiting for a few bits and pieces to turn up, but initial prints are looking very good. Using a vertical x-axis, and also a tr10x2 leadscrewby sdavi - CoreXY Machines
Things to check: - Current setting too low/high on the stepper driver for the extruder - Correct temperature set for the filament your trying to extrude - Correct thermistor selected in the firmware - Wrong esteps set in firmware - tension on the filament idler - Trying to extrude too fast? - blocked hotend Try without the filament, see if the motor still make the clicking noise, if so probablyby sdavi - Australia, Sydney RUG
Sounds like the max feedrate for z-axis is too high. Try lowering it until it works, usually around 2-4mm/s is common for i3.by sdavi - General Mendel Topics
Have you tried this: in pronterface press home, then raise the Z by say 10mm and see if it moves up by 10mm ? check to see if the z is not stalling etc when moving. i also assume the part being sliced is also not in the air ? Also check the start of generated gcode to make sure its telling it to goto the right positionby sdavi - General Mendel Topics
Have you set the right steps per mm for z-axis (and x/y)? EDIT: Also, if your homing in the Max direction, make sure the {AXIS}_HOME_DIR is also set to 1. Where are the endstops located? MIN positions should be X: Left, Y:Back, Z:bottom. IF they are not, then they are MAX position.by sdavi - General Mendel Topics
Rather than print a new extruder, you could just measure the top bolt length, diameter, gap etc etc and design and print an adapter piece, something along the lines of like the image attached. Even if it was just the top round part of the adapter at least it would help align the feedhole and hold the bolt in place, might remove some potential movement. Edit: the extruder just bolts directly ontoby sdavi - General Mendel Topics
yep, the BOM on github has the y smooth rods at 405mm. When i made the box version last year, i had 410mm smoothrods which seemed good length. I have seen some people put the motor on the front instead of the back which seems to gain a bit of space. If your using the wood y-carriage, you may be able to gain a little bit more space by moving the bearing holders in a little bit closer to centerby sdavi - General Mendel Topics
Setting inverted for the endstop in the software is all that is required. What firmware are you using?by sdavi - General Mendel Topics
I remember you were building a prusa i3, so you are on the right track. However, there looks to be something attached to the top of the jhead, i would guess that is a pneumatic pushfit connector which is used in bowden setup? I havent seen a jhead that comes like that, but if that connector unscrews (assuming its even meant to come off), then the black top bit of the jhead will fit into the recesby sdavi - General Mendel Topics
The current rating is just the maximum it can supply. The board will only draw what it needs.by sdavi - General
That can happen when tightening the nuts. Loosen them, often its on the long rods in the y direction (on a i3), until is sits flat again and carefully tighten them. Mine sits flat, but i also have it bolted to a piece of plywood. Makes it a bit more sturdy and easy to move.by sdavi - General Mendel Topics
The blobbing on the sides is probably due to retraction settings. Try increasing the length of retraction a bit more and/or retraction speed.by sdavi - General Mendel Topics
I also have had great success with Elmer's washable gluestick, been using it for some months now and works great every time. I use it for both PLA and ABS on glass. Only needs a light coating, and I usually get a number of prints between applications too. Cleanup couldn't be easier, wipe down with a damp paper towel, then i usually wipe the glass with some Isopropyl alcohol.by sdavi - General Mendel Topics
QuoteEEstudent "layer_height = 0.3; width_over_thickness = 2.2;" to leave as is? This is settings that will be used in the slicer when you print. If you can print the parts using those settings then ok to leave (layer height of 0.3mm and extrusion width of 0.66mm). QuoteEEstudent "idler_bearing = bearing_624;" I chose 624 because I saw most of the people use 624 instead of the default 623. 62by sdavi - General Mendel Topics
Have you carefully calibrated the e-steps yet? And correct nozzle size set in cura? looks like it is over-extruding, some of those layers are quite thick. Bit more details about your setup would help. Hotend setup (bowden/direct), nozzle size, layer height etc.by sdavi - General Mendel Topics
It could also be possible the mosfet was damaged at some point too? Measure the voltage of the heated bed pins (keep one lead on one of the GND screws where the power is connected, and check the + and - pins with the other lead on the D8 pins) both the + and - should read approx 12V when the bed is turned off. Measure the resistance of the heated bed? Should be above 1ohm If you don't have aby sdavi - General Mendel Topics
Since you mentioned number 1 and 2 points for 12V, it isn't by any chance one of the boards that has 3 solder points and dual power? Could it be a MK2B? If it has 3 solder points, do you have a table on the board that looks like this one: Reprap wiki ? If so, then you actually have to bridge the 2 negatives together (i.e. pins 2 and 3) when using 12V supply. Measuring the resistance is a goodby sdavi - General Mendel Topics
If you added the connection to D1 you could just read the result of a M105 and add/subtract from it.by sdavi - General
I had a very similar issue which was solved by adding M400 as the first entry in the end script, before telling it moving out of the way and turning off motors, temperatures etc. I believe it has something to do with the certain gcodes that execute before the buffer has fully emptiedby sdavi - Printing
I'm not quite sure what you mean. Are you just playing with them to make sure they are reporting the correct values if closed or open, or are the steppers not stopping when the endstop is triggered when you home the axis? I see you have this setting: #define ALWAYS_CHECK_ENDSTOPS false which as i understand (i might be wrong here), will only check the endstops during the homing sequence, afterby sdavi - Repetier
For the thermistor falling out scenario, i think here are 2 parts: 1. A "guard" temperature could be implemented and very easy to monitor. A simple way is to have a user defined parameter which can guard for +/- X degrees from the set temperature, and this would become active only once the initial target temperature is reached and started printing. This could be say a 3 strikes and your out styleby sdavi - Repetier
hmmm. Are you sure it was .pde? The new version should be Repetier.ino. If it is a pde file you are seeing then it might be a old one somewhere on your system? Otherwise, given that you aren't seeing the other files in the arduino program, i would suspect either: 1) the files aren't being unzipped correctly for some strange reason, check the file unzips without any errors and that in the unzippeby sdavi - Repetier
I just pasted that config into mine and it compiles just fine (firmware 0.91 and arduino software 1.0.5). I can only suggest to download a fresh 0.91 firmware from github again and make sure to have the latest version of the arduino software.by sdavi - Repetier
Quick look at that config file shows number extruders is 0. I think you forgot to click "Add Extruder" on the temperature tab in the config tool.by sdavi - Repetier